Crafting a Medieval LEATHER BOTTLE for Reenactment or LARP
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- čas přidán 4. 07. 2024
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Looking for a way to make an authentic medieval waterproof leather bottle for reenactment or LARP? Look no further! In this video, I'll show you how to make a waterproof leather bottle using a simple and affordable method. This bottle is perfect for use in wet and dry situations, making it a versatile and reliable tool for your reenacting or LARP needs.
Chapters:
0:00 introduction
0:18 tools and materials
0:43 desining and cuttung the parts
1:52 sewing
5:20 shape
8:55 plug
9:21 wax
11:49 revealing
12:03 important conclusions - Zábava
Tip for punching holes in leather whit a awl. Get a cork block. That way you can just "stabb" the cork stright down trough the leather. The Cork is firm enough to keep the leather flat, but soft enough that you can pirce the leather whit little to no resistance. When the cork is brand new, it will be hard, but after a month or so, it will soften up a bit. It will make leather projects mutch more enjoyable. + you will work less on your own fingers... trust me been there and done that.
Oh, and dont use sand for filling the water skin. Sand can get stuck in it after you empty it. Better to use either pot popcorn or aquarium gravel, it will come out a lot easier, and are mutch less likely to get stuck inside.+ if any do get stuck, just grab a hand full and pour it back in and shake, and it will come out.
If you are going to do any pattern stamping on the leatehr, it's best to do it before sewing. And the leather should not be soaked. just whet enough to feel whet. It's hard to describe the feeling you should go for. It's like when you put the over side of your fingers on it and it kinda feels cold/damp ish. That way when yo do make the patterns, they will stay when it dryes. I've made waterskins before and it still works, but you got to be a heck of a lot more carefull when shaping the leather, so you dont accidentaly "streatch" the leather and destroy the patterns. But it is doable.
I have a trick regarding the cracking of the bees wax...Ii live in canada we get minus 50 in my area..I had the problem with waxed tarps and moccasins so I experimented around.. I got some 100 pine tar and melted a block of bees wax the size of a soap bar then I put a generous table spoon of pine tar in it... now the wax is in minus 30 still kind off gooiish and flexible like a hard silicon beat.. works wonder also found out it repelling bugs as candle or on the waxed items ...try it ..
i used wheat grains to shape my bottle. when making stitching holes use a piece of dried birch polypore mushroom under the leather .
This video is amazing. One day I will work up the courage to start making things like these myself...
the first stitch is always the most difficult one ;) . Mayby you got a friend or group you can do the project with, that usually helps ;)
you should've played raining blood during the high speed process
I've had issues with leaving my costrel in the sun for too long, which also ruined some of the wax on the inside. I'll have to put it in the oven to redistribute the wax again for a good seal.
This video was great! Very informative, can't wait to give this a try.
Bist ein sehr sympathischer Typ, cooles Video!! 😃
very interesting and relaxing to listen to. :)
I like this! Very cool work
Muito bom gostei, espero que faça um redomdo para nos
Lovely costrel
Hello, hope you are having a lovely day.
What a fantastic video.
Also watched some other stuff on this channel, that I also really enjoyed.
I am a woodworker by heart, but I would love to have some leather bottle.
So my First question is: What is tanned leather that should be used? (Wenn möglich auf deutsch bitte)
And is there a way to identify?
I have a lot of leather left overs, but I am not sure how they are tanned. I could guess that the very soft ones are probably with metallic components and more sturdy / hard are fitting?
Second question: Why do you use "Kaseinleim" for the wood and not also just skinglue?
I personnally love to work with fishglue (no heating required) and have no experience with the "Kaseinleim".
Would be keen to know if it is worth exploring it.
Otherwise keep up the great work, I love watching your stuff :)
Hope you dont mind the questions.
With love and appreciation from Austria :)
Servus! Danke :)
ich habe das leder mit diesem Namen auf Amazon gekauft und verwendet: Langlauf Schuhbedarf® Punzierleder XXL großer Lederzuschnitt, Blankleder, Dickleder, Punzierleder 250mm x 600mm vegetabil gegerbte Rindleder, Vollrindleder,Sattlerleder (Lederstärke 3,0-3,5mm)
Leider funktioniert es nur mit sog. Blank- oder Rohleder; das, mit dem man auch noch punzieren kann.
Caseinleim ist wasserfest; das ist der große Unterschied. Der Schild ist beim bespannen ja relativ lange feucht. Wenn ich da die Planken mit irgendeinem Gluteinleim verleime, könnte sich der wieder lösen.
Immer gerne! :)
@@TheShieldery Alles klar, danke dir :)
popcorn kernels would be better than sand. Larger than the grains so you don't accidentally leave any in there at all.
Glass marbles are also fine
cool bag, how well has the waterproofing held up?
I used it on temperatures bellow 5 °C in my last video and it started to drip, with like 1 drop in 5 seconds. When I was back at home I rolled up a small sausage of bees-wax and pressed it on the leaking spot. now it's water proofe again :)
have you found these hold up in very hot weather?
They are very good in hot weather, but if it gets bellow 5°C, cracks could form. That's why I use the Gourd bottle from my second last video now.
Ahhh aber der faden ^^ und mit borsten geht es einfacher und du brauchst nicht so große löcher.
ja, die Löcher hab ich einen ticken zu groß gemacht. Normalerweise verwende ich auch keine Runde ahle, sondern eine mit Rauten-Querschnitt. Haben die nen speziellen Namen, btw? Mit dir will ich eh noch schreiben. Schuhe wollte ich mir auch schon lange selber machen....
Promo'SM