2013 Explorer 2.0 Ecoboost Turbocharger Replacement - Part 6 of 7
Vložit
- čas přidán 24. 10. 2018
- Loosen bolts to uncouple the catalytic converter and the turbo. Remove the ribbed oil drain line (you'll replace the two gaskets on this line); have a drip pan ready to catch the small amount of remaining oil. The coolant line will be removed from the engine block so be ready with a bucket to capture the remaining coolant; you should replace the double washer attached. The oil line above that line (17mm) will have two copper washers which will also need to be replaced. The oil line attached to the engine block will also have two copper washers which need to be replaced as well.
Part 1 of 7 • 2013 Explorer 2.0 Ecob...
Part 2 of 7 • 2013 Explorer 2.0 Ecob...
Part 3 of 7 • 2013 Explorer 2.0 Ecob...
Part 4 of 7 • 2013 Explorer 2.0 Ecob...
Part 5 of 7 • 2013 Explorer 2.0 Ecob...
Part 7 of 7 • 2013 Explorer 2.0 Ecob...
Hey Gary, job complete. it took longer than I anticipated but all in it wasn't to bad. If I did it again it would go much faster. Your videos help immensely. The improvement in the car is unreal.
Sounds Awesome, I'm glad the videos were helpful. I still have my explorer and it's still running like a champ. I get some sputtering sometimes when I punch it, which is rare, and the exhaust fumes come in through the A/C vents when it happens. Just a heads up, but not a big deal. And you're right, the difference in power is definitely unreal.
Replaced my 2nd Turbo but this time I went with a OEM instead of the one off of eBay! Thank you sir you have been a great help once again!
How long did the eBay turbo last?
I'm getting ready to do this job man and I was so stressed becouse I couldn't find a good video or instructions, you made it super simple. Started off with the parts, boom, got the answers I needed. Went ahead to just point and direct us without actually showing you ratcheting every bolt, booom, now I know bolt locations, you eve have that pointer, bang, no guessing which bolt your talking about. Great video, no negative back feed on it, if you had a friend or assistance hold stuff for you or the camera? Doesn't even matter. Thank you for making this, already subscribed, was stressed all weekend over this.
Ivan Ferrandon glad to hear that man. Let me know how it goes. Make sure you read my descriptions on each of the vids because in one or two instances, I misspoke. Not a big deal, but I recall one specifically when removing the metallic tubes (coolant lines) from under the engine, have your bucket ready because some coolant WILL start pouring out. Not a lot, but maybe a quart or less. Just want to try and prevent you getting doused. Best of luck! Mine’s still running like a champ 👌.
I have a 2013 Ford Edge 2.0 Eco Boost.....can I basically follow the same steps or are they completely different?
Hey Gary, thanks for vids they were a life saver. I just replaced my turbo on my 2013 fwd edge. I ended up taking the turbo out the bottom was the easiest for my model. And a side note if the 2.0 liter Ecoboost is manufactured after 05/31/12 for some reason ford says to replace the catalytic converter. Mine is 06/2012. So I was supposed to. Back to your video you helped me greatly so again thanks from Minnesota. Keep doing it
Sounds great Lucas, that makes my day brother! And thanks for the heads up on the catalytic converter. I probably should have changed mine but I'm not getting any error codes on it so we'll see. How's your Edge running now?👌🏽 I bet. 😁
@@garysanchez4123 hey buddy, I didn't replace my catalytic converter. Just because I didn't want to waste another 500$. And I've been running this thing since Wednesday. And Wednesday it was -15 here in the twin cities and my edge isn't launching any codes yet. And it is running excellent, and sooo much quieter when you start it. Seriously can't thank you enough for taking the time to make this video good job.
Service data actually says if your edge is built 05/2012 or BEFORE, then you need to replace the catalytic converter.
Why not hollow out the cat?? I plan on doing that or I saw a video where a company is making a SS pipe to eliminate.
Make sence ? Or No???
@@juancoleon4520 personally I wouldn't. Your car needs some back pressure but not too much. Without the stuff in the catalytic converter your computer is going to get confused. And probably launch an engine code, if not worse. I left my old cat in and I haven't had any problems and I've been using mine for over a year now. Hope this helps good luck buddy.
Oh yeah, one more quick comment to anybody who reads this. Squirt a little oil in the oil intake on the new one before starting the engine. Or pull the fuse for your feel pump and turn that thing over a couple times for about 10 to 15 seconds each time just to get some oil through there before intake start up.
Dumb question, but where's the oil intake? Thanks!
First thing no such thing as a dumb question. I can't remember it's been so long since I did it. It will be the line you take off with oil coming out if you haven't started yet. One is coolant one is oil
Good good job 👍
Some ford explorers have a wide lip (as yours) on the large flange where the boost linkage attaches, and some have a thin narrow lip. before I take everything apart how do you know the turbo they sold me is going to fit> 2012 front wheel drive only 2.0>?? video #6 5:53 time far left flange is wide on yours some are thin.
My engine on Ford escape 2013 model it brings out smoke as if the rings are bad but is not the rings I suspected that is the turbo, please what should I do to stop it?
Thanks
Great video brother I love it possibly only one ☝️ on CZcams for this motor.
Agreed 2000%
I just did a 2012 Ford Edge and I couldn’t get turbo out the top it didn’t have the bar across engine etc so removed half shaft and came out from below super easy
Nice. Thanks for sharing that. I'm sure that'll be helpful to others.
Hi. Where is throttle body on this ?
How long did take you too do it? Where did you got them turbo from?
Hey Gary, someone mentioned something about a transmission mount that you should check but I can't find anything on it. Am I right or did I just make that up.
Hi Chris. Yeah, you definitely want to check the transmission mount, engine mount and torque mount. There's a good chance that they're all shot, especially if it's making that growling/vibration type noise when accelerating. Check out this vid. czcams.com/video/27NBpnH-WzM/video.html
Gary, do you know how the small rubber lines run? The two close together.
Not sure what you mean, but each hose is sized to fit the specific connection of that's what you're asking.
I need my exhaust manifold gasket replaced. Would I need to follow this info to accomplish that ?
It's a 2.0 Ecoboost MKZ
Probably, but I couldn't tell ya for sure. I'm not a mechanic, just a do-it-yourselfer, and I'm not familiar with the way the MKZ engine is set up. More than likely though, it should be pretty much the same. I just else why you think you need to only change out the manifold gasket.
I have a question. I have an explorer just like yours. I changed the turbo. Where is the two aluminum hoses? Oil on top and antifreeze on the bottom. The one on top is leaking oil at me.
Do you mean that you're trying to order new hoses?
Thanks Gary. I am attempting tomorrow. How long should this job take if all goes well?
Changing out the turbo with the help of at least one person and all the right tools, should probably be done in about 2.5 hours. Changing the transmission mount, about an hour.
@@garysanchez4123 Thanks Gary.
@@chrissmollen3190 No problem, best of luck!
Did you have to take tire, axle out on passengeside to take out and reinstall new turbo? Thank you!
I read other comments and seen you took it out the top. Thank you!
Thank you Gary, I'm about to do this on my wifes explorer, and these vids will cut down the confusion. Did you get a reman'd or a new one? I'm looking at reman'd from Rock Auto.
Awesome. I got a new one. If you look at part 1 of 7 czcams.com/video/QP4o0hH-tIo/video.html, I walk you through the parts that you need and which Ford dealer to get them from at the best price hands down. Good luck, and let me know if you habe any other questions. -G
So I took off the messed up turbo today, after fighting trying to get it to turn loose of the 4 mounts, I had to loosen the catalytic converter nuts and it came loose. That was the most aggravation of the whole removal. I swear when I loosened the water cooling line, it emptied about 3/4 gallon out. I had my wife help me/hand me wrenches, to this day she still doesn't know what a socket extension is, and vise grips :\ I'm sending it off for rebuild, will post how it goes. I looked at your newest post with the motor/transmission mounts, mine are in good order so far, so thanks for the warning on that to.
@@jeffhines2895 yeah loosening that catalytic converter is the key to getting it detached. I hope you had a bucket on standby to catch the coolant! I think that I may have forgotten to mention that you'll still have some coolant discharge once you remove the coolant line from the engine block. Sorry if I did. Your wife's awesome for helping out. Bless her heart, she'll be so happy once the refurbished one is installed. 👌🏽
@@garysanchez4123 So just for fyi, Rockauto repair/rebuild DOES NOT FIX THE WASTEGATE ACTUATOR, they called me and said sorry, can't fix that part. So I'll be getting a new one
@@jeffhines2895 Awe man, that sucks. Well I think you'll be pretty happy with a new one. Just make sure you order it like I did on vid 1 of 7. It'll save you some money... unless you find one cheaper of course.
Hey Gary, I have a couple of issues, my turbo seems to be whining quite bit, I got under the car and oil is leaking from the oil return tube. I put new gaskets in and tightened them but oil is leaking. Also, when i went back and looked at the parts we should order, you said we needed 2 manifold/turbo gaskets I thought only one came off mine so I only put one new one back on. Any insight would be appreciated.
Hi Chris. Unfortunately, I don't know the sure fix since I'm not a mechanic. The gaskets I received for the turbo manifold were a set of two. That's how I received them when I ordered them, one on top of the other, and that's how I installed them. I don't remember if there were two original gaskets, but I want to say there were. That MAY be where the whining is coming from. As for the oil leak, I think that maybe changing the metallic (I believe they're copper) gaskets again. I don't know what the tightening specs are for those but I think we just tightened them firmly. Not over torqued though since we're dealing with copper gaskets and aluminium threading, unless I'm referring to the wrong gaskets. If not the gaskets, maybe try replacing the bolts. I didn't have either of those issues, but this is what I think might help.
Any luck?
@@garysanchez4123
Hey Gary, I had to replace the oil return tube with new gaskets and the leaking stopped. But I did have another question. I was looking up what could cause the whining. It mentioned a leak and I remembered you said to order two manifold gaskets. I did that but only put one back on. Does it require to gaskets when you reinstall and do they go on the same exact way? Meaning do you simply double them up?
@@chrissmollen3190 Glad to hear the leak was secured. As for the manifold gaskets, yeah I would put the two on back-to-back. I wish I could remember how they looked more clearly, but I know for sure I put the two on mime. The schematic on the Ford parts website shows two; one for the exhaust manifold and one for the turbo. They're the same part number so they're exactly the same. Therefore, just double them up. Hopefully that'll do the trick.
Can you let me know which ones those hoses are? I have a coolant leak in that area and not able to figure out which one is the coolant line that is leaking
The 2 i am confused about are the ones on the back
So, the hoses that are fastened with banjo bolts are coolant lines. See: parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/connection-water-outlet-7833703-1#sectionId:141075653
& parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/hose-water-inlet-7848377-1#sectionId:141075653
One is an coolant inlet hose, the other is a coolant outlet. The oil lines have the regular bolt heads. Hope this helps.
@@garysanchez4123 Did you tighten the banjo bolt on the back before installing the turbo or after?
@@nsohail3404 I think it was after.
Is it possible to use this engine without the turbo
I believe that it must have a turbo. It will still run with a bad turbo, it just won't have the power necessary to run effectively and efficiently.
Did you put OEM turbo or it is a eBay unit? Thx .
czcams.com/video/QP4o0hH-tIo/video.html
OEM, See this video. Part 1 of 7.
So the turbo comes out through the top or can i remove it from the bottom?
We removed it through the top without even trying through the bottom. It just didn't appear that we would have enough space below.
Also another question , does the turbo have to be primed with oil or anything before installing or does it kind of just plug and play ?
@@beboschannel8584 plug and play
Gary Sanchez thank you for the info appreciate it
@@beboschannel8584 No problem! Let me know how it goes. 👍🏽
at 1:57 that the oil feed line.
Is this the rear or front turbo
Yeah it goes to the rear.
GARY WHAT STATE ARE YOU IN??
I need to proof read before I post I suck. I meant fuel pump. And initial start up
Oh okay, got ya. Fuel pump... well, no problems here with that either. I know that I had the "fuel sending unit" replaced a couple years ago due to a recall but that's been about all (it was leaking fuel pretty bad, strong smell inside the cabin).