When you verify voltage is present at your element, Amp draw is also an excellent test of element functioning. Also after draining tank and removing lower element, this is a good time to see if tank needs a cleaning.
We had a storm knock out our power and when the lights came back on, we had no hot water. I pulled out the elements and they were covered in little white rocks. They were still testing good for continuity but I replaced them anyway. Still no hot water. Tested EVERY contact and EVERYTHING was testing good and I couldn’t figure out what the problem was so I started watching troubleshooting videos on CZcams and they all just kept repeating the same steps to test each terminal. I finally found this video and it offered a a test haven’t heard on any of the other videos, (checking both inputs together to verify that they added up to 240v)! Sure enough, one input wire was getting 120v (and since I had continuity every contact also read 120v) and the other read 0v. It was the Square D double 30 breaker. One side was good holding the other in the ON position, so it wasn’t tripped. Traded it out for a new breaker and I got 240v and hot water!! I just wanted to say thank you for including this test because you are the ONLY person who suggested it!
Nice. Mine is doing the same thing after I replaced both thermostats and elements and tested all the terminals. Over and over again as everyone kept suggesting. Hopefully I can find the problem in this video like you have.
The damn water company was doing some work on a house a couple yards down from me and no joke ever since they started I have had no hot water…. Don’t know if it was just shity timing or if somehow they screwed up my water too… they are never there when I’m off work so I’m kinda screwed lol
My man...you just saved me some money for the time being👍🏾 Turned out to be both heating elements were shot. Even though I'm still considering doing tankless but now I can take my time
Great information! Didn't know how to continuity test before. My element was bad and had shorted out and burned in two. Only discovered when I pulled the element out due to getting no hot water. Thanks!
Great video. No stupid music on background, went step by step explaining everything clearly. Straight to the point and making some good comments along the way. The ONLY thing I would like to see a little better is the setting symbols on your multimeter (I know, I can watch a video on how to use a multimeter). Thank you !!!
Yeah me too. People who do videos need to understand peoples learning curve is all different and assume we are dumb sheep learning this for the first time. Because I am. I don't even know the settings all mean on my multimeter. The video did not focus well on the settings. Was too far out. Great video. Be careful of nonchalantly speeding through things like this. I noticed saying things important that could seriously harm someone because it was said casually or context was not from A to B. 11:18 is a good example of this. The way in which you said it, a literal person would disconnect the leads, and then cut the power. So someone would disconnect the leads before turning the power off. Because that is the way you said it and they are imitating everything you do. Why? Because they are sheep. In fact, when you say Cut.. don't be surprised if they actually CUT it. I've taught many classes before. Assume everyone are idiots.
Had to skip all the way to 12:30 to find what I needed. Disconnect before testing continuity. Exactly what I needed. Been a long time since I had to muck with this. Thanks...
Very well explained. Love the video !! Its not a "hot water heater" If you had hot water you wouldn't need the heater. Literally everyone calls it this. 😅
Great video, but your troubleshooting may not work in some cases. If it's winter, and you're upper element failed, and your tank has been sitting a while (ie cooled down), you won't be able to turn down the upper element enough to allow the bottom element to turn on. Our incoming water is cold, and the upper thermostat's minimum temp is 90F, 32C. If the upper element has failed, the water wont warm, so the thermostat won't send power to the lower thermostat.
@Walsh; YOU must think that I am an idiot. Your comment was not 11 months ago, it was more like 11 seconds ago, Mr so-called Langley/ NASA Scientific radio controlled “Researcher”!
Be nice if someone would show/explain removal of element that burned and one side was severed from the other. That's what happened to me and when pulling out the element without draining the tank, water went everywhere. If a continuity test showed no continuity, then you might be ready with a screwdriver? to hold down the broken element as it was pulled out of the tank? We had no idea the element could be broken in two. We did remove it and get the new element in, but like so many of these DIY YT videos, they always seem to show the perfect circumstance; never what might go wrong. And, the heating elements alternate function from the thermostat setting; we thought the lower unit had a problem until we check it again fir a few minutes. Your clip is one of the best for this. I never knew anything about it before we DIY. Thanks!
It is completely your fault for not following instructions to drain the tank before removing the heating element. The gushing water had nothing to do with your element being broken and everything to do with you not draining the tank before trying to remove the element.
Thank you great video, I hope all the rookie maintenance watch your video.till then keep smiling with lol politely and healthy safely maintain knowledge
Thanks very helpful. Also love and appreciate the angst with the camera - I get the same issue when I’m videoing carpentry work cuz I don’t script or plan the video ahead. 👍🏼 Also as others have mentioned, I’ve reviewed a few on this topic and there’s a lot of great ones, but this was detailed and explained quite clearly and the troubleshooting aspect is spot on. Thnx again.
Be sure to turn OFF the power from your main breaker box to the water heater before removing the wires on the heating element. One thing that some of these videos didn't mention is the mineral coating on the elements inside the water heater. The elements will still work. But it will take more time to heat the water when the heat from the element must go through the mineral deposits which act as an insulator that slow down the heat transfer from element to cold water.
Exactly, which also means that the water heater has to be drained/flush not always the case but I would drain it first & then changed the element to be on the safe side.
Great video, good explanations with the multimeter. Old apartment had a Rheem 30 gallon from the 1990s...was probably never even touched. Hot water sucked, about 5 mins then lukewarm, and handle had to be ALL the way on full hot. If you moved it a HAIR, the water went cool. One time the heater went out totally- the thermostat RESET button restored it back to its "normal" crap performance. It finally busted a leak and was done for this year. Wish I knew this info before- could have at least drained/flushed sediment, and tested/replaced the elements. The anode was fucked and it was going to bust a hole anyway, but at least I couldve not dealt with lukewarm crappy showers for years. Thx for the info
Great video, but I was a little confused as to the top thermostat and the bottom was showing power. I thought that was not suppose to happen. Even though the bottom was drawing any current but power shouldn't have gotten that far with the top running correct?
Elements can also be tested by turning off the power, then testing the resistance across the element. A good element should read between 10-16 ohms. My good element read at 13 ohms, but my bad lower element read at .59M ohms (basically open). Safer to test with the power off.
What if both elements read at 13 Ohms, thermostats look good visually and power is being supplied but still no hot water? Could one of the thermostats be bad or voltage be incorrect?
@@snowyowl9132 Did you isolate each element by removing at least one wire from each one? You might be "back feeding" and reading the same element through the t-stat.
I found a shortcut, or did I? Turn a thermostat up, hear it click on then hear water heating in the tank. Seemed to be an easy shortcut. Great video, thank you!
Hi.. I got a problem with my electric iron heating element. Let's say the resistance readings are as expected but I'm just scared to pass the current throught the heating element to check it, because I dont want it to short. I basically dont want the fuse in the mains to go off and then we'll have no electricity in the house and will have to call for help. So how can I make sure that wopnt happen? From what I checked with the multimeter, it was showing no current leaking into the body and the resistance between the terminals of the heating element is exactly 58 ohms (calculation says it should be 57.6 ohms). Should I now be okay to move ahead and connect power supply?
Nice video. Thanks for so much helpful info. BTW, when trying to add humor...be careful about saying to "wet your finger, etc." You never know when someone takes you literally. Also, not sure if anyone has ever pointed out how often you say "ah" or "um." A common speaking habit which detracts from the quality of your presentation.
This seems like a very thorough explanation on trouble shooting a hot water tank. Unfortunately, I just don't understand much about electrical things. My hot water started coming out scalding hot and rather brown-ish the other day, so I knew something was wrong. But I don't know how to test these components. What if I just buy 2 new elements and 2 new thermostats? I'm pretty sure I can install them myself. Would that fix my problem?
This would be a good place to start. Draining the tank and flushing it out, should take care of your brownish color. However I wouldn’t change the elements out. You know they work well! It came out hot hot! Just replace the thermostats which seem to have malfunctioned. You can get the thermostat and element kits and save the elements for later.
Hey I noticed the two elements you got from lowes. I bought a pair of the same "deluxe" elements (the loop one) earlier today. From what I understand, most new water heaters come with that other model you had on the table (high density I think?), but the deluxe (low density?) looped model is a bit longer than the other one. Does it matter that it has a greater length? We have a standard ao smith ECT 52 210, 50 gallon....typical sized. I would have played it safe and bought the shorter ones, but they only had one left. Both are 240/4500, only difference is the length.
The only thing you need to worry about is the correct voltage and wattage. Every company has their design and their opinion on which is best. Keep in mind that a lot of company’s will engineer something to a lower standard so that it fails. It will keep their business operating on need of the customer.
great tip but, too bad 38-40gal wh's only last 5-6yrs if your lucky, with hard water. Replaced thermostats and both elements when the hot water wasn't lasting as long as it should and got maybe 2 more months out of it when it started leaking in between both thermostat panels. Luckily only paid $45 for the element kit...but shouldn't of bothered
I replaced thermostat and heating element. all Volt readings read 240V from break panel to the heating element. Power to both yet does not heat. I have a US/Craftmaster 30 gal elec water heater only 1 thermostat and 1 heating element. Ant suggestions?
Hey Edwin, if you could provide some things you’d like to see videos on as a tech, shoot me some of your ideas. I’m a remodeling contractor so I have such a narrow focus a lot and “writers block”
@@TheDurbinCompound if you can I think you should make one fixing dryers basics like changing timers coils or thermostat and how to read the meter and what yo look for also
I just changed the element in my tank and it was all swollen and crusted and there's all these white chunks of stuff inside the water in the tank I'm not sure what they are or how they got there and I don't know if opening the drain valve will drain out those clumps that look almost like big huge pieces of salt but I'm pretty sure it's not salt
I've seen on other videos it says to turn the water heater off at main breaker. Before touching all those screws with the voltage checker, are we supposed to turn off the main circuit breaker first?
I measured the voltage with my meter at the top of the thermostat the way you show at 6:08. It shows no voltage. Yet my pen tester shows voltage present at both the thermostat and the heating element. I can't figure that out. The meter correctly shows voltage at a standard 120 volt outlet.
Recently used your method to find the reset button had tripped. Left covers and insulation off for about a week waiting to see if reset would trip again. No problems during that week. 24 hrs after reinstalling insulation and covers, thermostat reset tripped again. What would cause reset to trip? Would changing thermostat be best solution? Thanks
Might be an over temp problem. Putting covers back on made the thermostats get hot and pop. I’d try changing them out and see what happens! It’s a relatively cheap fix. If it doesn’t fix them, you can always return them!
Keep in mind that both elements might not come on together. They might sequence. Heat bottom first then top. You can test and check it with a new one and find out! If it doesn’t fix it, take it back.
Check for voltage, turn off breaker, check for voltage, check ohms on each element (do not have to disconnect wires) which is likely the cause if there is actually a problem. Only if they test good move on to testing the thermostats. You kinda did this the hard way.
Question - Does the thermostat 180F limit red reset button on upper thermostat only act on top info present at upper thermostat, or does the lower thermostat send signals that can can pop it? I'm guessing no, but wanted to make sure. Reason I'm asking is that (i) I have "hard" well water and (ii) my reset button keeps popping (even after replacing both thermostats), so my working theory is that the elements are coated with minerals, which raises their internal temp to operate and thus setting off the thermostat limit reset (presumably at the upper thermostat?).
When you verify voltage is present at your element, Amp draw is also an excellent test of element functioning. Also after draining tank and removing lower element, this is a good time to see if tank needs a cleaning.
you are right about the current. i would check with amp probe first
I always test for amperage draw never test for continuity the element can be out and still have continuity
We had a storm knock out our power and when the lights came back on, we had no hot water. I pulled out the elements and they were covered in little white rocks. They were still testing good for continuity but I replaced them anyway. Still no hot water. Tested EVERY contact and EVERYTHING was testing good and I couldn’t figure out what the problem was so I started watching troubleshooting videos on CZcams and they all just kept repeating the same steps to test each terminal. I finally found this video and it offered a a test haven’t heard on any of the other videos, (checking both inputs together to verify that they added up to 240v)! Sure enough, one input wire was getting 120v (and since I had continuity every contact also read 120v) and the other read 0v. It was the Square D double 30 breaker. One side was good holding the other in the ON position, so it wasn’t tripped. Traded it out for a new breaker and I got 240v and hot water!! I just wanted to say thank you for including this test because you are the ONLY person who suggested it!
Nice. Mine is doing the same thing after I replaced both thermostats and elements and tested all the terminals. Over and over again as everyone kept suggesting. Hopefully I can find the problem in this video like you have.
The damn water company was doing some work on a house a couple yards down from me and no joke ever since they started I have had no hot water…. Don’t know if it was just shity timing or if somehow they screwed up my water too… they are never there when I’m off work so I’m kinda screwed lol
Thanks for the video. Keep up the good work. I’m a level 2 plumber and this video is part of the curriculum in Canada.
My man...you just saved me some money for the time being👍🏾 Turned out to be both heating elements were shot. Even though I'm still considering doing tankless but now I can take my time
This was super helpful. Talk about a life saver. Thank you so much!
Great information! Didn't know how to continuity test before. My element was bad and had shorted out and burned in two. Only discovered when I pulled the element out due to getting no hot water. Thanks!
Impressed with such of a very detailed explanation, and easy to understand, thank you
Thank you! Helping me troubleshoot my research project!
You broke this down so dang good.
Best explanation on CZcams yet. This was awesome. Thank you.
I really appreciate that comment! Thanks!
Nice job at explaining very clearly!
This really helped me! Very clear, detailed and understandable.Thank you for what you do!!
I really appreciate your comment! Thanks for watching. Hope to see you around the channel!
Great video. No stupid music on background, went step by step explaining everything clearly. Straight to the point and making some good comments along the way. The ONLY thing I would like to see a little better is the setting symbols on your multimeter (I know, I can watch a video on how to use a multimeter). Thank you !!!
Yeah me too. People who do videos need to understand peoples learning curve is all different and assume we are dumb sheep learning this for the first time. Because I am. I don't even know the settings all mean on my multimeter. The video did not focus well on the settings. Was too far out. Great video. Be careful of nonchalantly speeding through things like this. I noticed saying things important that could seriously harm someone because it was said casually or context was not from A to B. 11:18 is a good example of this. The way in which you said it, a literal person would disconnect the leads, and then cut the power. So someone would disconnect the leads before turning the power off. Because that is the way you said it and they are imitating everything you do. Why? Because they are sheep. In fact, when you say Cut.. don't be surprised if they actually CUT it. I've taught many classes before. Assume everyone are idiots.
Yep,..my problem exactly with the water heater,..thanks for the video,..very clear on what to do. Thanks
Excellent. Thanks for your time!
Wow! Very thorough! Thank you!!
good explanation, clear, and easy to understand. good video.
Had to skip all the way to 12:30 to find what I needed. Disconnect before testing continuity. Exactly what I needed. Been a long time since I had to muck with this. Thanks...
Thank you for your video! Best I found while problem solving my electric water heater!
Well I appreciate that comment! Thanks!
Thank you! You helped me identify a bad heating element on my water heater
Very well explained. Love the video !!
Its not a "hot water heater" If you had hot water you wouldn't need the heater. Literally everyone calls it this. 😅
Best "how to" on this subject! Thanks!
Thank you so much for this video!! I thought I had a bottom bad element because it wasn’t getting to 240v after I flushed my water tank
Very well explained
Very good tutorial sir. 👍🏿
Thanks man I was getting lots over a blown out element in the tank
A good video. Good sound video and instruction. Thanks!
Great video, but your troubleshooting may not work in some cases.
If it's winter, and you're upper element failed, and your tank has been sitting a while (ie cooled down), you won't be able to turn down the upper element enough to allow the bottom element to turn on. Our incoming water is cold, and the upper thermostat's minimum temp is 90F, 32C. If the upper element has failed, the water wont warm, so the thermostat won't send power to the lower thermostat.
thank you for making this video it was much helpful!
Thank you, 25 years electrician and never was shown how to test one. Just reasoned it out. I was right!
@Walsh; YOU must think that I am an idiot.
Your comment was not 11 months ago, it was more like 11 seconds ago, Mr so-called Langley/ NASA Scientific radio controlled “Researcher”!
Great explanations, you a great teacher.
Excelente explanation! Thank you very much!!!.
thanks for the video, im a carpenter/roofer.... i hate wires!!!!... but now i know why my heater only gives 30min of hot water
Amazing explanation! Thank you so much!
Awesome! That’s what this channel is all about! Hope to see you around!
Good information and explanation. 👍☘ oh, one idea, show the settings on the multimeter when testing.
very good in explaining info.
Be nice if someone would show/explain removal of element that burned and one side was severed from the other. That's what happened to me and when pulling out the element without draining the tank, water went everywhere. If a continuity test showed no continuity, then you might be ready with a screwdriver? to hold down the broken element as it was pulled out of the tank? We had no idea the element could be broken in two. We did remove it and get the new element in, but like so many of these DIY YT videos, they always seem to show the perfect circumstance; never what might go wrong. And, the heating elements alternate function from the thermostat setting; we thought the lower unit had a problem until we check it again fir a few minutes. Your clip is one of the best for this. I never knew anything about it before we DIY. Thanks!
It is completely your fault for not following instructions to drain the tank before removing the heating element. The gushing water had nothing to do with your element being broken and everything to do with you not draining the tank before trying to remove the element.
Very good explanation….thank u
Great video ❤
Great job explaining how the element work on a electric water heater thank
I appreciate your comment! Thanks
Gonna try this this weekend at the cottage. Thanks
Great video, thanks!!!
Thanks for the video
I agree with other comments, best explained video on CZcams, I'm subbed brother
Awesome! That’s what the channel is all about!
Great job
very helpful video.
Thank you great video, I hope all the rookie maintenance watch your video.till then keep smiling with lol politely and healthy safely maintain knowledge
Good stuff
Thanks
thank you for sharing
Good info.
very good video thank you
Thanks, very well describe
Extremely affective and so informative 👏 , thank you so much sir, spectacular job!!
So helpful, thanks
Thanks very helpful. Also love and appreciate the angst with the camera - I get the same issue when I’m videoing carpentry work cuz I don’t script or plan the video ahead. 👍🏼
Also as others have mentioned, I’ve reviewed a few on this topic and there’s a lot of great ones, but this was detailed and explained quite clearly and the troubleshooting aspect is spot on. Thnx again.
Thanks for your very, very great video
The best take away is that both elements will not be on at the same time. Never knew this. Thanks!
Yes!
Great video thank you
Great video , buddy!
Be sure to turn OFF the power from your main breaker box to the water heater before removing the wires on the heating element. One thing that some of these videos didn't mention is the mineral coating on the elements inside the water heater. The elements will still work. But it will take more time to heat the water when the heat from the element must go through the mineral deposits which act as an insulator that slow down the heat transfer from element to cold water.
Exactly, which also means that the water heater has to be drained/flush not always the case but I would drain it first & then changed the element to be on the safe side.
Good job
Very wel explain good job
Nice video man appreciate it
Thanks! I appreciate the comment!
🤟 really helped me out
Awesome!
THank you, this vedeo so clear on troubleshooting.. Is there any reason why there 2 type of heating element ?....
Great video, good explanations with the multimeter. Old apartment had a Rheem 30 gallon from the 1990s...was probably never even touched. Hot water sucked, about 5 mins then lukewarm, and handle had to be ALL the way on full hot. If you moved it a HAIR, the water went cool. One time the heater went out totally- the thermostat RESET button restored it back to its "normal" crap performance. It finally busted a leak and was done for this year. Wish I knew this info before- could have at least drained/flushed sediment, and tested/replaced the elements. The anode was fucked and it was going to bust a hole anyway, but at least I couldve not dealt with lukewarm crappy showers for years. Thx for the info
thank you for your video awesome brother👍
THANKS A BUNCH!
Thank you.
Thanks for the comment!
Thanks.
Great video, but I was a little confused as to the top thermostat and the bottom was showing power. I thought that was not suppose to happen. Even though the bottom was drawing any current but power shouldn't have gotten that far with the top running correct?
Elements can also be tested by turning off the power, then testing the resistance across the element. A good element should read between 10-16 ohms. My good element read at 13 ohms, but my bad lower element read at .59M ohms (basically open). Safer to test with the power off.
What if both elements read at 13 Ohms, thermostats look good visually and power is being supplied but still no hot water? Could one of the thermostats be bad or voltage be incorrect?
@@snowyowl9132 Did you isolate each element by removing at least one wire from each one? You might be "back feeding" and reading the same element through the t-stat.
Do you have video for replacing element?
I found a shortcut, or did I? Turn a thermostat up, hear it click on then hear water heating in the tank. Seemed to be an easy shortcut. Great video, thank you!
Where the second video to replace it great video !
Interesting
Hi.. I got a problem with my electric iron heating element. Let's say the resistance readings are as expected but I'm just scared to pass the current throught the heating element to check it, because I dont want it to short. I basically dont want the fuse in the mains to go off and then we'll have no electricity in the house and will have to call for help. So how can I make sure that wopnt happen?
From what I checked with the multimeter, it was showing no current leaking into the body and the resistance between the terminals of the heating element is exactly 58 ohms (calculation says it should be 57.6 ohms). Should I now be okay to move ahead and connect power supply?
Nice video. Thanks for so much helpful info. BTW, when trying to add humor...be careful about saying to "wet your finger, etc." You never know when someone takes you literally. Also, not sure if anyone has ever pointed out how often you say "ah" or "um." A common speaking habit which detracts from the quality of your presentation.
This seems like a very thorough explanation on trouble shooting a hot water tank. Unfortunately, I just don't understand much about electrical things. My hot water started coming out scalding hot and rather brown-ish the other day, so I knew something was wrong. But I don't know how to test these components. What if I just buy 2 new elements and 2 new thermostats? I'm pretty sure I can install them myself. Would that fix my problem?
This would be a good place to start. Draining the tank and flushing it out, should take care of your brownish color. However I wouldn’t change the elements out. You know they work well! It came out hot hot! Just replace the thermostats which seem to have malfunctioned. You can get the thermostat and element kits and save the elements for later.
@@TheDurbinCompound - Thank you so much for that advice! I will definitely follow thru.
Good luck! Let us know how it goes!
Hey I noticed the two elements you got from lowes. I bought a pair of the same "deluxe" elements (the loop one) earlier today. From what I understand, most new water heaters come with that other model you had on the table (high density I think?), but the deluxe (low density?) looped model is a bit longer than the other one. Does it matter that it has a greater length? We have a standard ao smith ECT 52 210, 50 gallon....typical sized. I would have played it safe and bought the shorter ones, but they only had one left. Both are 240/4500, only difference is the length.
The only thing you need to worry about is the correct voltage and wattage. Every company has their design and their opinion on which is best. Keep in mind that a lot of company’s will engineer something to a lower standard so that it fails. It will keep their business operating on need of the customer.
Check the amps, check all the legs withs volt metter. If one leg is low or inconsistent with the others, you got a bad element
Hey this is derick Durbin nice to meet you
great tip but, too bad 38-40gal wh's only last 5-6yrs if your lucky, with hard water. Replaced thermostats and both elements when the hot water wasn't lasting as long as it should and got maybe 2 more months out of it when it started leaking in between both thermostat panels. Luckily only paid $45 for the element kit...but shouldn't of bothered
That goodman dependable 92 should be checked for big cracks in the collector box!!
Yep I’ve kept an eye on that old girl. She has been outstanding!
I replaced thermostat and heating element. all Volt readings read 240V from break panel to the heating element. Power to both yet does not heat. I have a US/Craftmaster 30 gal elec water heater only 1 thermostat and 1 heating element. Ant suggestions?
So it works on a hot water heater. What about on a cold water heater🤷♂️ 🤔
🤣🤣 just picking on you man, good video and break down🤙
I was considering asking why waste money heating hot water... ;)
when you test the continuity or resistance of the elements, removing one wire is enough.
New follower! I work as a service tech, I can learn a lot from you. Thank you!
I will start making more videos of troubleshooting in the field. I’ve been slacking
@@TheDurbinCompound yeah man you need to for you and for us.
Hey Edwin, if you could provide some things you’d like to see videos on as a tech, shoot me some of your ideas. I’m a remodeling contractor so I have such a narrow focus a lot and “writers block”
@@TheDurbinCompound whoooo ofcurse definitely it will be fun
@@TheDurbinCompound if you can I think you should make one fixing dryers basics like changing timers coils or thermostat and how to read the meter and what yo look for also
Ohmpen? I have a buddy that used to say it that same way
Just put a meter across the elements connections! That’s it!
I just changed the element in my tank and it was all swollen and crusted and there's all these white chunks of stuff inside the water in the tank
I'm not sure what they are or how they got there and I don't know if opening the drain valve will drain out those clumps that look almost like big huge pieces of salt but I'm pretty sure it's not salt
It’s calcium deposits. Definitely a must to flush the tank yearly
I've seen on other videos it says to turn the water heater off at main breaker. Before touching all those screws with the voltage checker, are we supposed to turn off the main circuit breaker first?
How are you supposed to troubleshoot and check voltage with your multimeter if the main power is off?
Did u do part 2?
Hii
I measured the voltage with my meter at the top of the thermostat the way you show at 6:08. It shows no voltage. Yet my pen tester shows voltage present at both the thermostat and the heating element. I can't figure that out. The meter correctly shows voltage at a standard 120 volt outlet.
Recently used your method to find the reset button had tripped. Left covers and insulation off for about a week waiting to see if reset would trip again. No problems during that week. 24 hrs after reinstalling insulation and covers, thermostat reset tripped again. What would cause reset to trip? Would changing thermostat be best solution?
Thanks
Might be an over temp problem. Putting covers back on made the thermostats get hot and pop. I’d try changing them out and see what happens! It’s a relatively cheap fix. If it doesn’t fix them, you can always return them!
So if i have power everywhere but the black wire that connects the two thermostat then is the top thermostat broken?
Keep in mind that both elements might not come on together. They might sequence. Heat bottom first then top. You can test and check it with a new one and find out! If it doesn’t fix it, take it back.
What do I do if I'm not sure what the problem is.? Reheem electric water heater just stopped working out of no where.
Check for voltage, turn off breaker, check for voltage, check ohms on each element (do not have to disconnect wires) which is likely the cause if there is actually a problem. Only if they test good move on to testing the thermostats. You kinda did this the hard way.
Question - Does the thermostat 180F limit red reset button on upper thermostat only act on top info present at upper thermostat, or does the lower thermostat send signals that can can pop it? I'm guessing no, but wanted to make sure. Reason I'm asking is that (i) I have "hard" well water and (ii) my reset button keeps popping (even after replacing both thermostats), so my working theory is that the elements are coated with minerals, which raises their internal temp to operate and thus setting off the thermostat limit reset (presumably at the upper thermostat?).
No signal sent between. I’d agree with your theory