I just completed rebuilding my Zenith 24T, following your instructions. It worked a charm and now the Fergie runs like a dream! It idles great, starts up in an instant, and the throttle response is perfect. Thank you for the great series, Lance!
Great videos (parts 1 to 3) thanks. Just put the carb back together...a little tip for others is to make sure you put the rod between the choke and throttle in before you join the top and bottom of the carb. On mine there are little lugs to prevent the rod coming out of the top when it is in the choke linkage, but this also stops you putting the rod into the top if it is in the choke linkage. The only thing I could do was split the carb again and put the rod in position then. Only added 10 mins or so, but worth knowing. Carb going back on the tractor tomorrow, it was really full of crud after two years of covid standing so fingers crossed it'll now run. If so, I'm then on to your 'adjust governor' video - that part of the engine baffles me so it'll be interesting to look at.
Do you know , it's pretty rare to find the information contained in this invaluable demonstration? Almost everything about the Ferguson carburettor that comes quickly to light while searching regards the Coventry engined versions or TO's. There are probably many who know the things I had been trying to locate, like yourself. But not the kind of men (& sheilas)who get on the internet to publish the ins' & outs' of it all. Now 1+3/4 turns initial setting is a very crucial bit of knowledge when a bloke is struggling with a cantankerous old machine that runs like a horse with a broken leg. And mine is a TEA powered 35 with a 24 T-2 Zenith. I have a brand new Ford-Ferguson carb but they don't fit onto the manifold. And the internet is basically American which isn't worth reading either. Long yarn short though, it took a good week to discover this which I found via your Part 1 or 2 video. Thanks for this, you're a good man!
Buggered if i know how many times my big red handled Sidchrome screwdriver has saved my arse ! They don't make screwdrivers like that anymore or like the old stanleys with the metal pad on the handle so you could hammer the buggery out of something ! I now have the strange urge to rebuild a carby - why I don't know but maybe it is like when you see someone else drinking a beer and subconsciously think jeez i could go one right now ! Excellent little series of videos Lance and i liked your battery drill milling machine for reaming the bushes !
Great videos. He speaks clearly, not like those American productions that slur their words at 100 words a minute. Also speaks my language: a hammer is a tap-ometer and he is a cackhander like me. A pleasure to listen to.
Sorry to bother you again lance, l found 1 alloy washer in the kit that's thicker than the others. The needle and seat that acts on the float had two thin alloy washers when I removed the old one. I take it the thick alloy washer goes on the new needle and seat. Thanks for the advice nick.
Hi good morning I’m French and I restart a French TEA-20 from 1955. Recently I brought a new Zenith 24T-2 Carburettor and a new decanter. My question is how to connect the fuel hose in the Zenith and on the other side in the decanter? Because nothing fit actually with my French hose. Did I need to restart from a soft hose and adapter? Thankfully
Usually there if a fitting with a compression olive to match it up. Possibly take it to a hydraulic supplier as they have a good selection on pipes and fittings.
Hello from down under Bundy, just one question, does that linkage from the top main butterfly and the choke butterfly, is it ment to slide or grip on the linkage,??
It should slide when the choke is pulled on. It will slide up until the bend in the rod is hit by the little tube opening the main throttle butterfly a mm or so.
thanks bundy, I have made it so its slides, Your video is excellent, whom ever rebuilt my carby last time, put the choke butterfly in the wrong way. I will test it this arvo. cheers Aaron from downunder
Hello Lance, great video! Thanks. In reading some documents I found that on the strangler section some documents call the opposite side of the choke attachement an automatic strangler. Is it possible that the small spring assuring that the choke is well closed (when you choke), must also be tight enough to keep the strangler slightly closed while in operation (even when the choke is off)? I am asking this because my fergie runs better with my choke pulled or slightly closed.
Hi Lance, sorry to trouble you again. My tractor has started has started running very, very rich, almost to the point of not starting at all an producing clouds of smoke when it does. The carb is set as it should be, it' almost new, could it be a sticking float ?
Thanks for the vid lance. Boy that choke assembly was a pain to get right!!! Tried for 2 hrs before getting it to work correctly. I'm surprised the carb kit doesn't come with a new choke plate and shaft. Got any ideas why it would be missing?
Look I don't know if you want to volunteer this ? Can a deisle 3.152 be bolted into the petrol tractor? I reckon the bellhousing 'might' be standardised. Perkins to Standard?
@@BundyBearsShed thanks again, for this reply this time. I think it worth further research on my part. It's an FE35 petrol in this case where deisle natured power will be a great improvement - possibly! So it's nice to have some positive indication.
Mr. Bundy, just had a new carburetor installed on tea20, leaking bad from the bottom? Wondering why or where? Haven't driven much. Anything i can check, seems to be coming out of 1cm hole in bottom. Float stuck?😂😢
@@BundyBearsShed loving all your video's Lance! really helpful for me as I'm restoring a Fergy TED20. I'd also love to see a video where you talk though how to make the final adjustments to the carb on a fergy, and in particualr explain how to judge what adjustments to make, as there is more to it than it just runs!
My ferguson TO 30 will start but not keep running. Sometimes run a few seconds or several minutes. Filter screen in side gas tank is clean. Fuel flowing good thru line good. Fresh Gas. Any ideas ? I'm in Mississippi, sounds like you are close.
Excellent 3 videos...would like to see the cleaning process of carb body and also all the bits...also what do you do if you don’t have reamer facilities for the plastic bushes......thanks Lance. Bob in uk.
@@BundyBearsShed Poor bloody poms build the tractors there and have to go halfway round the World to learn how to fix it. It's little wonder that he want's to make sure not to miss anything out in the servicing of the atomiser. After all it's a hell of a long way from home.
It's an original zenith carb and got a lot of play in the throttle butterfly shaft, should have looked at your second vid before I asked about the plastic bushes. Can you tell me what size to drill the carb to accept the new bushes, mm if possible. Thanks for the vids it's nice to be able to see things done before we have a go. Nick.
Hi lance your videos have been an amaising help in my own ferguson build. But is there any chance you could do a video on setting up and balancing the carb. Thanks again
G'day Lance I have just changed the main jet in my carby and have put it back on the tractor and fired the beast up. It now runs at high revs no matter what I do. I have found I negelected to fasten the screw clamping the throttle to choke rod on the back of the carby. Could you tell me please how it supposed to be set, ie throttle closed, choke closed and then fastened or one open one closed ? I haven't messed with any carby adjustments by the way. where fuel used to trickle into the sediment bowl it runs like a good un now. Thanks again for the great videos.
When the choke is fully closed the main butterfly should be around 1mm open and that seems to work well. Start with 1 3/4 turns out on both mixture screws and it should be ok.
Hi Lance, hope you're okay. When you unscrew the main jet 1 3/4 turns, how much adjustment is there from that position befor the mixture becomes too rich or weak. ?
Could probably bend up an approximation of that rod from a piece of 3/32 welding rod. Remove the coating, polish the rod, bend with a vise and needle nosed pliers.
Hi Bundy, just about done my restore on my 51 tea20. I am trying to fire it up but keep getting small snorts as to say, but wont fire. What is the initial settings of the air screw and the large circle fuel mixture and the throttle stop screw? It seems it may be the reason its not catching. Thanks if you can help....Tommy
G Day Jim, Check the float is not dented and that the thickest washer in under the needle and seat. Make sure there is no crap to block the needle and seat open too.
@@BundyBearsShed thanks, all good. No fuel to the cylinders now. Also pulled the tank, and the valve cover vent has been bolted together, never venting like it should, and sitting to one side leaving the hole in the valve cover wide open. The adventure continues. Thanks.
@Halfdan Knudsen I had left the old float in. So I took it out, even though it tested fine. Put in the new one. Seemed okay after that. Also, be careful how many turns you open the fuel line. I go about 2.5, otherwise that can also lead to serious flooding. Good luck!
Hi Lance took my zenth carb 24t-2 apart and cleaned jets etc about 2 years ago. But didn't replace needle and seat and float as okay. Everything has been going well but recently Ive noticed it's hard to start when hot almost like it is flooded. Yesterday I took my TEA20 for drive around paddock. Turned it off tried to start but wouldn't. Cleaned spark plugs and noticed they were quite wet with fuel and black with carbon. With a bit of cranking got it started again but only ran for about a minute then cut off. Went thorough the same process again and it cut out after a minute. Have now destroyed my barrel unit on my starter motor. I'm thinking that it is a carb problem a stuck float or needle valve, or jet adjustment? Your thoughts thanks Tim.
I would really look at electricals, usually even if flooded when held in wide open throttle it will clear or start to misfire if it is running out of fuel.
I tested the coil and it was below the spec some of the leads were also not great. Replaced these plus condenser and points and spark is really good now. Seems to been going fine now. Thanks for your advice Lance🙏🙏
Hi lance, I had to do a field strip and clean of my carb on the weekend. Is the small rod (the one your missing) going from the throttle shaft to the choke link arm designed to slide in the brass tube, or should it be clamped with the screw?
Bundy Bears Shed , thanks Lance so much for the quick reply. Mine had seized with dirt and probably caused my tractor to flood and not start! I initially thought the needle and seat had stuck open! My TEA-20 still does long hard days of work!
I just completed rebuilding my Zenith 24T, following your instructions. It worked a charm and now the Fergie runs like a dream! It idles great, starts up in an instant, and the throttle response is perfect. Thank you for the great series, Lance!
Nice work!
Great videos (parts 1 to 3) thanks. Just put the carb back together...a little tip for others is to make sure you put the rod between the choke and throttle in before you join the top and bottom of the carb. On mine there are little lugs to prevent the rod coming out of the top when it is in the choke linkage, but this also stops you putting the rod into the top if it is in the choke linkage. The only thing I could do was split the carb again and put the rod in position then. Only added 10 mins or so, but worth knowing. Carb going back on the tractor tomorrow, it was really full of crud after two years of covid standing so fingers crossed it'll now run. If so, I'm then on to your 'adjust governor' video - that part of the engine baffles me so it'll be interesting to look at.
Dont feel bad I have forgotten the rod and had to open it up again ,lol.
Just like that. Done. Mine took a couple try's to get it right. I'm a welder, not a mechanic. Keep smiling Lance
G Day Darren, Yes they can be a bit fiddly even if you know what you are doing but good to have a go yourself though.
Excellent series, Lance. That jig sure earned it's keep. Now you can go into production. All the best. Tony
G Day Tony, Yes the jig has been a handy tool for sure. Glad I took the time to make it.
Do you know , it's pretty rare to find the information contained in this invaluable demonstration? Almost everything about the Ferguson carburettor that comes quickly to light while searching regards the Coventry engined versions or TO's. There are probably many who know the things I had been trying to locate, like yourself. But not the kind of men (& sheilas)who get on the internet to publish the ins' & outs' of it all. Now 1+3/4 turns initial setting is a very crucial bit of knowledge when a bloke is struggling with a cantankerous old machine that runs like a horse with a broken leg. And mine is a TEA powered 35 with a 24 T-2 Zenith. I have a brand new Ford-Ferguson carb but they don't fit onto the manifold. And the internet is basically American which isn't worth reading either. Long yarn short though, it took a good week to discover this which I found via your Part 1 or 2 video. Thanks for this, you're a good man!
Thankyou, Im glad it all helps a little.
@@BundyBearsShedYou bet it does, plenty!
Nice job Lance, it has been over 20 years since I rebuilt one on those carbs. Brings back memories.
Nice easy bench work Steve
More fun vids to keep me occupied on a winters night.... Thanks Lance!
Thanks Duncan, Off to the shed for you then lol.
Buggered if i know how many times my big red handled Sidchrome screwdriver has saved my arse ! They don't make screwdrivers like that anymore or like the old stanleys with the metal pad on the handle so you could hammer the buggery out of something ! I now have the strange urge to rebuild a carby - why I don't know but maybe it is like when you see someone else drinking a beer and subconsciously think jeez i could go one right now !
Excellent little series of videos Lance and i liked your battery drill milling machine for reaming the bushes !
G Day Ian, Yeah the original Stanley screw driver sets were great, I bought one recently and they just aren't the same.
Great videos. He speaks clearly, not like those American productions that slur their words at 100 words a minute. Also speaks my language: a hammer is a tap-ometer and he is a cackhander like me. A pleasure to listen to.
Thanks
Sorry to bother you again lance, l found 1 alloy washer in the kit that's thicker than the others. The needle and seat that acts on the float had two thin alloy washers when I removed the old one. I take it the thick alloy washer goes on the new needle and seat. Thanks for the advice nick.
.
Hi good morning I’m French and I restart a French TEA-20 from 1955. Recently I brought a new Zenith 24T-2 Carburettor and a new decanter. My question is how to connect the fuel hose in the Zenith and on the other side in the decanter? Because nothing fit actually with my French hose. Did I need to restart from a soft hose and adapter? Thankfully
Usually there if a fitting with a compression olive to match it up. Possibly take it to a hydraulic supplier as they have a good selection on pipes and fittings.
Hello from down under Bundy, just one question, does that linkage from the top main butterfly and the choke butterfly, is it ment to slide or grip on the linkage,??
It should slide when the choke is pulled on. It will slide up until the bend in the rod is hit by the little tube opening the main throttle butterfly a mm or so.
thanks bundy, I have made it so its slides, Your video is excellent, whom ever rebuilt my carby last time, put the choke butterfly in the wrong way. I will test it this arvo. cheers Aaron from downunder
Hello Lance, great video! Thanks. In reading some documents I found that on the strangler section some documents call the opposite side of the choke attachement an automatic strangler. Is it possible that the small spring assuring that the choke is well closed (when you choke), must also be tight enough to keep the strangler slightly closed while in operation (even when the choke is off)? I am asking this because my fergie runs better with my choke pulled or slightly closed.
The spring is to close the choke once it has been pulled, the other side (rod side) it to ensure the rod going to the throttle butterfly returns.
Hi Lance, sorry to trouble you again. My tractor has started has started running very, very rich, almost to the point of not starting at all an producing clouds of smoke when it does. The carb is set as it should be, it' almost new, could it be a sticking float ?
Possibly but you should be able to dial back the main jet as all fuel entering the manifold has to go past it when it is running fast.
Thanks for the vid lance. Boy that choke assembly was a pain to get right!!! Tried for 2 hrs before getting it to work correctly. I'm surprised the carb kit doesn't come with a new choke plate and shaft. Got any ideas why it would be missing?
Usually the choke plate is not the wearing part as it stays open but the butterfly is constantly on the move when working.
Look I don't know if you want to volunteer this ? Can a deisle 3.152 be bolted into the petrol tractor? I reckon the bellhousing 'might' be standardised. Perkins to Standard?
On a 35 yes on a TE20 Im not sure.
@@BundyBearsShed thanks again, for this reply this time. I think it worth further research on my part. It's an FE35 petrol in this case where deisle natured power will be a great improvement - possibly! So it's nice to have some positive indication.
Mr. Bundy, just had a new carburetor installed on tea20, leaking bad from the bottom? Wondering why or where? Haven't driven much. Anything i can check, seems to be coming out of 1cm hole in bottom. Float stuck?😂😢
It sounds like the float is possibly stuck or there is some rubbish in the needle and seat.
@@BundyBearsShed Pushed up on the round hole at bottom of carb, think that fixed it, good so far.
Hello Lance
.have you got any videos on adjusting the carburetor while the tractor is running? Thanks mate Charlie
Not yet I dont think,
Bundy Bears Shed Thanks for great vids, you seem like a great guy! I would love a video on adjusting the 24t after rebuild. Thanks again Lance :-)
@@BundyBearsShed loving all your video's Lance! really helpful for me as I'm restoring a Fergy TED20. I'd also love to see a video where you talk though how to make the final adjustments to the carb on a fergy, and in particualr explain how to judge what adjustments to make, as there is more to it than it just runs!
My ferguson TO 30 will start but not keep running. Sometimes run a few seconds or several minutes. Filter screen in side gas tank is clean. Fuel flowing good thru line good. Fresh Gas. Any ideas ?
I'm in Mississippi, sounds like you are close.
Australia.
Excellent 3 videos...would like to see the cleaning process of carb body and also all the bits...also what do you do if you don’t have reamer facilities for the plastic bushes......thanks Lance. Bob in uk.
G Day Robert, all I use is a bead blast cabinet, I can never seem to get a good pic in there
@@BundyBearsShed Poor bloody poms build the tractors there and have to go halfway round the World to learn how to fix it. It's little wonder that he want's to make sure not to miss anything out in the servicing of the atomiser. After all it's a hell of a long way from home.
It's an original zenith carb and got a lot of play in the throttle butterfly shaft, should have looked at your second vid before I asked about the plastic bushes. Can you tell me what size to drill the carb to accept the new bushes, mm if possible. Thanks for the vids it's nice to be able to see things done before we have a go. Nick.
Should be 5/16 just under 8mm
Very nice job!
Thanks
Make your self a little press brake for your arbor press then copy the rod you have.
Hi lance your videos have been an amaising help in my own ferguson build. But is there any chance you could do a video on setting up and balancing the carb. Thanks again
G Day Gareth, Usually start with both idle mixture and main jet at 1 3/4 turns out and you will be very close.
Thank you lance
Just a quick one lance, what is the about quarter inch spacer for between the carb and the manafold. Ted20. Thanks nick.
G Day Nick, They usually dont have them but I have seen it on after market carbs. Normally there is just a paper gasket.
Hey Lance, I rebuilt my carb because it was hunting. That's gone, but now it is totally gutless. What am I missing? Thanks so much
Open the main jet up two turns from closed and check timing.
G'day Lance I have just changed the main jet in my carby and have put it back on the tractor and fired the beast up. It now runs at high revs no matter what I do. I have found I negelected to fasten the screw clamping the throttle to choke rod on the back of the carby. Could you tell me please how it supposed to be set, ie throttle closed, choke closed and then fastened or one open one closed ? I haven't messed with any carby adjustments by the way. where fuel used to trickle into the sediment bowl it runs like a good un now. Thanks again for the great videos.
When the choke is fully closed the main butterfly should be around 1mm open and that seems to work well. Start with 1 3/4 turns out on both mixture screws and it should be ok.
Thanks for the video, got my rebuild kit today, what are the little white plastic tubes for, thanks again nick.
They are new bushes for the butterfly shaft, you may not need to use them.
Lance, you could modify a bicycle spoke to replace that rod....
i think possibly a motor bike one as they are quite fat.
Yeah, that's better...
Hi Lance, hope you're okay. When you unscrew the main jet 1 3/4 turns, how much adjustment is there from that position befor the mixture becomes too rich or weak. ?
Usually only a half turn either way does the job.
Any chance you could do a video on your slasher Lance? I think I remember you saying you built it yourself some time ago.
Ill see what I can come up with, I would need to give it a good bath.
Hi can i buy a float for a t24 zenith on its own?
Yes they are usually available
@@BundyBearsShedThanks, ill do some further searches.
Could probably bend up an approximation of that rod from a piece of 3/32 welding rod. Remove the coating, polish the rod, bend with a vise and needle nosed pliers.
I have them in stock and found a supplier now.
Hi Bundy, just about done my restore on my 51 tea20. I am trying to fire it up but keep getting small snorts as to say, but wont fire. What is the initial settings of the air screw and the large circle fuel mixture and the throttle stop screw? It seems it may be the reason its not catching. Thanks if you can help....Tommy
G day Tommy, I start at 1 3/4turns out and do fine adjustments from there, check timing too.
Just finished the rebuild today. Carb is flooding badly. Any ideas? Great videos, thanks for sharing your knowledge.
G Day Jim, Check the float is not dented and that the thickest washer in under the needle and seat. Make sure there is no crap to block the needle and seat open too.
@@BundyBearsShed thanks, all good. No fuel to the cylinders now. Also pulled the tank, and the valve cover vent has been bolted together, never venting like it should, and sitting to one side leaving the hole in the valve cover wide open. The adventure continues. Thanks.
@Halfdan Knudsen I had left the old float in. So I took it out, even though it tested fine. Put in the new one. Seemed okay after that. Also, be careful how many turns you open the fuel line. I go about 2.5, otherwise that can also lead to serious flooding. Good luck!
Any idea where I can get the drain gauze for the 24th carbie
No I dont have a supplier myself yet.
Hi lance do you happen to know the thread of the main jet on the carb thanks keep up the videos good work
12 x 1.5 if my memory serves me correctly.
Hi Lance took my zenth carb 24t-2 apart and cleaned jets etc about 2 years ago. But didn't replace needle and seat and float as okay. Everything has been going well but recently Ive noticed it's hard to start when hot almost like it is flooded. Yesterday I took my TEA20 for drive around paddock. Turned it off tried to start but wouldn't. Cleaned spark plugs and noticed they were quite wet with fuel and black with carbon. With a bit of cranking got it started again but only ran for about a minute then cut off. Went thorough the same process again and it cut out after a minute. Have now destroyed my barrel unit on my starter motor. I'm thinking that it is a carb problem a stuck float or needle valve, or jet adjustment? Your thoughts thanks Tim.
I would really look at electricals, usually even if flooded when held in wide open throttle it will clear or start to misfire if it is running out of fuel.
@@BundyBearsShed ok thanks will do Tim
I tested the coil and it was below the spec some of the leads were also not great. Replaced these plus condenser and points and spark is really good now. Seems to been going fine now. Thanks for your advice Lance🙏🙏
Hi lance, I had to do a field strip and clean of my carb on the weekend. Is the small rod (the one your missing) going from the throttle shaft to the choke link arm designed to slide in the brass tube, or should it be clamped with the screw?
Slide freely until the bend catches the brass and opens the throttle a little.
Bundy Bears Shed , thanks Lance so much for the quick reply. Mine had seized with dirt and probably caused my tractor to flood and not start! I initially thought the needle and seat had stuck open!
My TEA-20 still does long hard days of work!
@@BundyBearsShed nope, i really dont understand that little shaft so have left the locking screw undone until i can work it out
👌👍
What is the thread on the inlet gas
I think it is 12 x 1.25 but I would need to check to be certain.
@@BundyBearsShed ok thanks for finding out cause I can't find anything, Thanks very much and love your videos they are great
ouch poor little carby , takes the bears hammer away if it does not fit there is a reason why lol
Hammers are good. Just like shifting spanners.