every gunstock is different and will pose different issues , i found that using the iron method to raise dents also helps raise the grain and any impurities such as skin oils and blood stains especially on the older carry guns , extreme cases of over oiling especially around the tang area might need to be soaked in acetone overnight , i like to wipe down stocks with 99 % isopropyl between coats if i handle the stock with bare hands and it gives you a idea what another coat will do . renaissance wax after gives added protection , sand till you think your good then sand some more i. good video
If you 400 to 600 grit wet sand the first two coats into the pores then steel wool with the 0000 course to remove some bumps and drips. Then you can thin coat it about five or six times and watch it shine
@RedneckPunk yeah, there’s definitely been some discussion in the comments about different wet sanding techniques. I’ve never done anything like that before but it’s some thing I will have to keep in mind for next time.
I’m from Vancouver Canada. I purchased a PCP air rifle. The Woodstock is Turkish walnut. A lot of people on CZcams recommend Birchwood Casey True oil. The finish is quite rough on the gun. I don’t know if they put any stain on it or if it’s natural. I would like to sand it down and make the Gun finish into a very smooth semi glossy black finish. Do you recommend this product? I can’t seem to find the company website.
I just searched “Birchwood Casey“ and was able to find their website. I think if you’re looking for a basic kit that you know will work it would suffice but if you are wanting to go for something darker you may need to buy a different stain. And for me personally if I’m already buying the stain separately then I would just get some epoxy to finish it with and not mess with a kit. Kind of just depends what your end goal is.
@rubencoolidge354 I would say you can hold it in your hands after about an hour but I wouldn’t try to reassemble it or put it in a gun case or anything until you let it sit overnight.
Looking back at it, I would have liked to but I was about 12 hours from when I had to give it back to the guy I did it for so time was becoming an issue.
@@RandomGunTuber Yeah I'm not saying it looks bad cause it doesn't. It just would of definitely taken a few more coats. As long as the owner is happy that's all that matters
@Quasar0420 when you wet the wood it raises the grains . You aren't wet sanding, you wet the wood and let it sit then while the grains are raised sand with fine paper or 000 steel wool . Will make it so smooth. Gives it a lusterious finish.
@@LeeChappell-zj3uv So that's something I should do right before I'm getting ready to stain? What grit sandpaper should I finish with before I stain and does it matter if it's a laminated stock?
1) As I mentioned in the video, I was told to use that kit so I did. 2) “Proper” stain color is entirely subjective. Red, brown, dark brown, tan, green sometimes, its all opinion.
@@RandomGunTuber Yet here he is watching a "how to" video but going to tell you how to do it lol. Dude has probably never done one but repeating what he saw in other videos lol.
The only reason I watched you because I thought you was going to do step-by-step on everything you cut out a step. Thanks a lot.
What did I miss?
nice video. looking to do this myself for a few projects for the first time. thanks for sharing your experience
The STOCK SHEEN AND CONDITIONER takes the SHEEN down to a hand rub finish. It says so on the bottle.
every gunstock is different and will pose different issues , i found that using the iron method to raise dents also helps raise the grain and any impurities such as skin oils and blood stains especially on the older carry guns , extreme cases of over oiling especially around the tang area might need to be soaked in acetone overnight , i like to wipe down stocks with 99 % isopropyl between coats if i handle the stock with bare hands and it gives you a idea what another coat will do . renaissance wax after gives added protection , sand till you think your good then sand some more i. good video
If you 400 to 600 grit wet sand the first two coats into the pores then steel wool with the 0000 course to remove some bumps and drips. Then you can thin coat it about five or six times and watch it shine
@RedneckPunk yeah, there’s definitely been some discussion in the comments about different wet sanding techniques. I’ve never done anything like that before but it’s some thing I will have to keep in mind for next time.
I’m from Vancouver Canada. I purchased a PCP air rifle. The Woodstock is Turkish walnut.
A lot of people on CZcams recommend Birchwood Casey True oil. The finish is quite rough on the gun. I don’t know if they put any stain on it or if it’s natural.
I would like to sand it down and make the Gun finish into a very smooth semi glossy black finish.
Do you recommend this product? I can’t seem to find the company website.
I just searched “Birchwood Casey“ and was able to find their website. I think if you’re looking for a basic kit that you know will work it would suffice but if you are wanting to go for something darker you may need to buy a different stain. And for me personally if I’m already buying the stain separately then I would just get some epoxy to finish it with and not mess with a kit. Kind of just depends what your end goal is.
@@RandomGunTuber Thanks for taking the time to get back to me
I have Carl Weather .22 fanbrik KKJ rifle and its stock is broken. Can you help in making a new one?
Making a stock? That’s way above my pay grade. I just make them pretty
You ever fix that stock yet?
What’s the dry time on the stain?
@rubencoolidge354 I would say you can hold it in your hands after about an hour but I wouldn’t try to reassemble it or put it in a gun case or anything until you let it sit overnight.
You definitely should have put on another coat or 2
Looking back at it, I would have liked to but I was about 12 hours from when I had to give it back to the guy I did it for so time was becoming an issue.
@@RandomGunTuber Yeah I'm not saying it looks bad cause it doesn't. It just would of definitely taken a few more coats. As long as the owner is happy that's all that matters
You should have wet the stock and sanded it before the stain .
Never heard of wetting it before the sanding. I’ll keep that in mind.
Would that bring the grain in the wood out better or what does wet sanding do?
@Quasar0420 when you wet the wood it raises the grains . You aren't wet sanding, you wet the wood and let it sit then while the grains are raised sand with fine paper or 000 steel wool . Will make it so smooth. Gives it a lusterious finish.
@@LeeChappell-zj3uv Good to know. Thank you
@@LeeChappell-zj3uv So that's something I should do right before I'm getting ready to stain? What grit sandpaper should I finish with before I stain and does it matter if it's a laminated stock?
The proper stain for a gunstock is RED. Like the high grade English stopping rifles for Africa.
1) As I mentioned in the video, I was told to use that kit so I did. 2) “Proper” stain color is entirely subjective. Red, brown, dark brown, tan, green sometimes, its all opinion.
Im going with green stain just to make you squirm 😂😂
You need to sand the Tru Oil into the pores. Look at other videos and educate yourself.
I followed the directions that came with the kit. Why are you so angry about my video? Click on the next one if you don’t like it.
There’s a a smart butt know it all on every video. I enjoyed your progress
@@RandomGunTuber Yet here he is watching a "how to" video but going to tell you how to do it lol. Dude has probably never done one but repeating what he saw in other videos lol.
Talking too much get to the point