This video describes how to replace the head gasket on a 2000 Ford Ranger, 3.0L V6. The repair is done exclusively with hand tools. The procedure should cover many other models.
This video was instrumental in fixing my cracked heads,same engine same truck. You sir are my hero. Thank you so much for making this video me and my daughter thank you we followed your instruct.ions step by step and as of tonight our truck is running again! Thank u soooooo much!
The purpose of hydraulic roller-tipped valve lifters is to eliminate clearances in the valvetrain. For these later model 3.0 Vulcan engines, it is NOT required that pushrods need to go back to the same position and orientation they were removed. For the inexperienced do-it-yourselfer it's great advice, but that applies to use of flat tappet lifters which do create a wear pattern on themselves. Interesting thing that not many are aware of is that the roller-tipped valve lifters in these Vulcans are the same part number as the roller lifters used in 1985-1995 302/5.0L H.O. motors found in Mustangs/Cobras, Mark VII, etc.
I am a renewed Christian! thank u for this video! i have a 2000 Ford Ranger 3.0 and i just had my lower radio hose burst yesterday. lost compression in 1 & 2 cylinder. gonna use this video to learn! God bless you!
You know I'm not big on religion. And I usually look down upon people who try to push it on me but this video feels different. Like you're not pushing it on me but letting it ride beside me. I appreciate it. Good work sir
Cyode Thanks for that comment Cyode. You correctly captured my disposition. I deeply believe Christianity is true and hope that others will consider it. I've tried to communicate that in a way that is not pushy or overbearing, just honest like a good friend. Thanks for checking out my channel.
Props on labeling everything, it can be tedious but it definitely helps during reassembly. I personally don't have the patience to label everything with tape so I typically end up using different colored window paint. Just make a good clear mark from plug to connector end so that reassembly is just a color match.
Here's a tip to get the fan nut loose. Use an air hammer chisle tip on the nut in the direction to loosen BEFORE undoing the belt. The shock will bust it loose.
Thanks Buddy for the kind words. I'm actually a full time pastor. Automotive repair is a hobby so I'm definitely an amateur. Glad to share what I've learned though!
If you think about it, they are not too distant fields. In automotive repair, the mechanic resurrects a broken vehicle using a book for reference. (Here a shop manual) In ministry, a pastor resurrects broken people using the Good Book for reference. (Here the bible) Good pastors and good mechanics have this much in common....they set things straight again. If you get a chance...check out my other videos...especially that one on becoming a Christian. Take care and God bless!
Great video broski, I just had the same issue, I decided to just buy new heads instead of machining them, it's like 300 dollars more, and I just made sure that there were no micro cracks
Thanks for the video. i am trying to decide whether to keep my Ranger and replace the heads or finally let it give up the ghost. I have a 2000 ranger with flex fuel and 306000 miles, but i have used castrol syntec it's entire life and changed it every 5000 miles. I have rebuilt, personally not had a mechanic do it, the entire front end from the frame up at 275000 and have replaced the timing chain, water pump, alternator, radiator, power steering pump, idler and tensioner ,tires, and AC clutch in the last 75000, now this. Love the truck and hate car payments but I am wondering if I'm throwing away money. Your video will help if I decide to give her a few more years. BTW I am also a Christian and appreciate the statement of faith. Also I saw the tell-tell signs of a true mechanic in your cut and bloody finger(lol)
Dennis Wyrick Thanks for the comment. That's a tough call. Honestly, the head job is not really that bad. It will allow you to see the cylinder walls to check for wear. It's free to tear down! Best of luck my friend!
This is one of the best car DIY videos I've seen. Thank you so much! I'm all done, now I just have to figure out why my truck is idling rough. If I turn on the AC it dies and it feels like it's lost some power on the top end. I'm guessing that it's a vacuum hose issue. Now I just have to find it.
Nicely done. very easily but to all who watch your video note that all plugs only go in one location only. So please mark them if it makes it easier. Also pressure washing the engine before breaking down is good. Shade tree or backyard mechanic video well done .thank you.
Injectors are only held in by the fact that the fuel rail is bolted to the intake by four small bolts. After that's removed they just pop out. Sometimes they stick in the intake and sometimes they come out with the rail.
I’m a Christian as well. I’m so bless to come across your video. I recently given a Ranger 1998. It’s a blessing to my family. Recently find out it has a blown gasket. I don’t know what to do. Please email if you can help. God bless.
Thanks again for this video. It is extremely. helpful I am just finishing this job on my 2000 ranger. Two of my rocker arms have some jiggle after being torqued, I hope it will be fine.
dooberoso You are more than welcome. The jiggle is perfectly normal. The others would do it as well but the are engaged on the Cam and under tension. Let us know how the repair turns out.
Just going to say thank you so much god has blessed you. I have a 4.0l that blew a head gasket after I did a clean then replaced from the cheapest to the most expensive thermostat then water pump then radiator. I feel defeated with my truck but I know just like the lord keeps me going I can keep this truck going! I will say it would be awesome if you could help me and make a video hey hey shout out to you hehehe god bless.
Watching this again and I'm pretty sure that wasn't the first time you started it at the end. Your engine was already up to running temperature. Did it start up immediately on the actual first time? I would imagine you had to prime the fuel pump by cycling it a couple times at the ignition switch. I think changing the fuel filter is something you should change while doing a head gasket because you've already had to release the fuel pressure so might as well. Only takes 10 minutes. I also changed the injectors micro filters since I had them out. I hate the the upper intake on this truck and how it covers the injectors but also how debris gets under it. Mine was nasty with 20 years is junk all over the valve covers. I think I spent more time cleaning them than the head and block. 😂 Great video. It was short(compared to the actual job) and told you everything you needed to do to complete this job. You helped me with mine. Thank you. The area the head gasket seats doesn't need to be shiny and new looking. Just flat and smooth. And only where the gasket actually seals around holes(coolant holes, bolts holes, and cylinders). The rest isn't quite as important. Just make sure no oil or anything is present in those areas. I'm just saying this to others watching because you'll see others on CZcams that use power tools to try to make the gasket surface shiny and polished looking. Plus I don't feel comfortable flinging tiny bits of debris into my engine as a result of using power tools.
Just wanted to say you and your video was a god-sent my family and I were at odds with what to do with my truck I followed your video and it saved us thank you so much
The BEST rust penetrant spray is actually a 50:50 mix of acetone and synthetic transmission fluid. Give it a try. It works faster than PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench.
Good video, much better than most. I will add this though: I am doing my 3.0 1999 Ranger right now. I was afraid of pulling and re-installing the injectors, looked like trouble coming to me, and at $60/ea...... So I left them all in place, and there is enough slack in the fuel supply line that I just moved the manifold and injector assembly off onto the driver side quarter panel, cleaned it right there and left it.
I'm working on my 4.0 in my 99 Ranger, both cylinder heads cracked between the valves, this video helped point me in the right direction. Better than my Haynes Repair Manual. . . which is just like "Do this and this and this, why did you buy this repair manual again? was it to get real help while doing your engine repair, surely not!? hahahaha.. "
Joe Costantino Glad the video was helpful! You may consider doing both heads while you have everything apart. The exhaust vavles naturally wear so when one goes out, the other may not be far behind. Beat of luck with your repair.
I watched the video over again and got confused by the part # on your gasket set. Like you did I bought the complete set for the head up but my part # ends with a 5. (My Truck is an 03 Flex Fuel), not sure if the head gaskets changed or what the difference is maybe cause of the upper intake plenum (mine is plastic) but I triple checked and I got the right part # :)
Joe Costantino Joe. The Ranger I repaired was a flex fuel model. I'm not sure why there are differences in your gasket kit. Hope your repair goes well.
Joe Costantino Joe, you may want to do both heads while you gave it apart. The other is likely to fail soon. The Vulcan motor heads are know for head gasket failure around 180k.
She's up and running now, been doing good for about 2 weeks now no more misfire, ended up buying 2 reman heads from Allied Motor Parts out of Georgia off Ebay. $310.62 for both. So far so good.
If the motor was overheated to the point where it blew the head gaskets it has most likely annealed the rings. When I replace a Ranger 3.0L I use a Taurus motor only because they are more available. You need to replace the head gaskets tho because the coolant flow is reversed from front wheel drive to rear wheel drive.
Great video. I have an 03 ranger 4.0 looks just like yours.with all the work you did in labor. should have replaced the water pump and timing chain while you had it all apart.
this is an amazing video for anyone who needs to do anything on this motor. thank you! it helped me figure out how to get the injectors out lol sadly it still misfires so I think something else is wrong. sigh.
Great video. One question since your video does not seem to address this: when loosening the ac/power steering bracket, there are three bolts in front. I see that you removed them, but I don't see any way of removing them without removing the tensioner pulley. Were you able to remove them without removing the tensioner pulley? Thanks for a very informative video. Great tip to label everything!!!
Hi. I followed your repair video On my 2000 ford ranger 3.0, i changed the heads and head gaskets, lifters, rods, fulcrums. Put everything back. I turcked the rocker arms like the book said. Put 5 30 oil but my lifter sound like a diesel. Oil pressure is ok. But lifter are after market. The car is running but like a diesel. I will buy an oem lifters and try once again. Any suggestions. I will appreciate. Thanks.
Hey Pastor, Over all a great video. I am finishing a swap out with a remanufactured engine after 330,000 miles. I was trying to get a picture of a similar throttle leakage, but your job was to different. Oh well. However, on your project, after an over heat with 185,000 (?) miles, and two cracked heads, a new camshaft synchronizer (thirty dollars at amazon) would have been a worth while investment. If you start getting a strange recurring " tweet, tweet,..." sound that you can't find, put a steal rod to the CSS (the vertical part at the very back top of the engine, just before the fire-wall), and the other end of the rod to your ear and you should be able the hear the synchronizer asking for help. Keep on teaching the GOOD WORD, and swing wrenches.
All of those Ford 3.0L Vulcan engines rust inside over time even when you use quality anti-freeze and flush the system regularly... I flushed my cooling system once a year and every year and at 24 years old the freeze plugs all started rusting out from the inside. When we pulled it apart the rust in the water jackets was unbelievable. But still a great running engine with over 300k miles on the odometer.
I've watched your video a few times. Solid info. I just noticed you didn't burp the cooling system after wards. Did you burp it but not add that part to your video? I'm guessing so seeing engine temp guage was half way up when you started it at the end. you should include how important it is burping the system because if you do not do so you don't air pockets stay in the system can overheat and destroy the engine
Will Fry Thanks for the comment Will. You are correct, I did ensure the cooling system had no air pockets. It's hard to capture each step. Glad you pointed it out.
Thanks for the video. I knocked out the headg gasket replacement on a 99 Ranger XLT Splash this afternoon that I brought for 800 bucks. I should be able to sell it for at least $2500 now. But I think I might have developed a bit of a truck crush. I'm thinking about keeping it. :-)
its a ford ranger xlt with the 3.0 v6, its a 94. yes its driveable but weak. yes i put new gaskets in when i done it. it sounds like its in the throttle body, i can feel it in my foot thats on the gas petal,and it is a slower knock than a rod.
Found your video very helpful to get an idea 💡 on how to get the lifters out. I thought it was doable without removing anything other than the valve cover. Now i know how to attack this on my truck.
I have a '93 ranger that I'm currently working on. Long story short, I was driving it after fixing the timing and it started acting like it was losing compression. Drove it back to the house ended up thinking it might be a head gasket issue but I'm stumped. Head gasket was fine, valves look fine, and not I have the engine in pieces. Advice? It has the 2.3 4cyl.
thanks, your video is really helping me... I'm 15 and I'm doing the head gaskets on my truck its a 1999 mazda b3000 v6 se and so far so good, I got it almost back together...
Vincent Santos Damn vinny, tell me how that works out for you.I've got the same truck 01 and got to do the same thing. I'm very proud of you being 15 taking on a task like this.
I'm 15 too! I'm doing complete engine rebuild for a 3.0 v6 mercury topaz, has the same engine. I'm replacing some things, including bearings and all of that, almost complete. I just have to install again the engine on the car.
Resurrection Auto I have the engine out. I'm taking the intake off and the heads in a little. I am not a mechanic. But I'm trying to do it to learn. Anything I should know please let me know. Thanks.
The ranger runs really good after rebuilding the heads and replacing the head gaskets. But now that I drove it for the first time the overdrive light is flashing.
Novice Mechanic he says.. ..Wink Wink I wish I was a Novice mechanic with knowledge and skills like yourself Great video well done. I have a 94 Ranger 3.0 56k original miles on it that when I first bought it six weeks ago On the drive bringing it home it lost complete power wouldn't go over 10 mph stopped at a repair shop told them to check the motor out It had a really bad Misfire, They told me it needs a fuel pump And filter and complete tuneup Long story short I put $1500 into it, No change still have a bad mis I Took it to the ford dealer They told me I have 0 lbs compression in one Cylinder ,I could beat the first Mechanics ass For Not Telling me or Not doing a compression Test... Live and learn
It just kills me to see people using tap water instead of anti-freeze in their engine. I've seen it before and will probably see it again. It's ironic because they done it in another 2000 Ford Ranger with the same engine. Once winter hit and it got cold enough to freeze it ruined everything under the hood including the heater core. Basically anything that had water running through it will freeze and bust. I give you many props for doing this kind of job for your first time and keeping your sanity. You must have the patience of Job. I'm just curious, what happened to the driver's side airbag?
Brian Smith Brian, thanks for the comment. The air bag was detached because I was also repairing the horn switch. It was unrelated to the head gasket repair.
Hi. God Bless you! Great narration and views. You make this look easy. I'm a DIY doing my first engine and I'm replacing the Heads on my 2003 Mazda B3000 3.0L. Seems cracked Heads are notorious for these engines! I've gotten down to the cylinder heads with just your video. Just a quick question: I have the two L/R rear Exhaust Manifold bolts broken also. UGH! Can you tell me how you got them out please? There's no space to drill or use an extractor and I don't have a welder to attach a nut as I've seen in some of the 'How-To' videos here. Much appreciate you NOT fast forwarding through the process like some of the videos. Much thanks!
I probably would not. I would think there is too great a risk of getting water in places it should not be. However, I did clean the engine when it was an back together.
A common failure for the 3.0L is a bad or failing water pump. After doing all that work and having the engine open, good idea to change the water pump. Also the Cam positioning sensor syncro should be replaced while your there.
Thank you so much for this video, I had a question about the procedure. When you put the head gasket back on, did you use any sealant or anything to aid with the head and gasket mating?? Thanks, getting ready to tackle one of these soon, appreciate your feedback.
Thanks for the question. No, I don't use any kind of sealant on the head gasket. Just make sure every thing is ultra clean during installation. Feel free to message me if you have questions during the rebuild. Best of luck with your repair!
Anthony, thanks for the reply. Do you think the timing could be off? That might explain the two symptoms. 1) running but no power 2)noise through intake.
Thanks for the great video. Im lookin at the same issue on my 99 B3000. Its having so many age related issues, I dont even know if I should mess with it. On the other hand, I cant afdord a new truck :(
bruce lonsinger Thanks for the comment Bruce. The good part about Rangers is that parts are readily available and cheap. Let me know if I can help you out.
Too late to help this guy but personally I would not have reused this block. If it was overheated it's highly likely the rings have lost their tension and it will burn oil. Rust in the cooling system is due to never changing the anti-freeze. Anti-freeze turns to acid after 4-5 years which is why manufacturers recommend changing every two years (I know, old school). This is the same engine as a Taurus Vulcan so if you can't find a Ranger motor in a junk yard you can use a Taurus motor but you will need to pull the heads and replace the head gaskets because the anti-freeze flows in the opposite direction.
either your missing a bolt on the A/C compressor like me or that's how they are mmm. I'm doing my lower intake plenum gasket because it's leaking oil this weekend.
Thanks for the vid probably gunna just buy new heads and bypass the machine shop experience i dont know if this is true but in school i was tought you should never loosen bolts with a torque wrench
Stewart Postman Thanks for the comment Stewart. I believe most if not all of the head you find in automotive stores are refirburished. The machine shop I use locally does an excellent job and it's cheaper. I think you are correct on the torque wrench. Using the to loosen bolts probably compromises calibration. Best of luck in your repair.
@@resurrectionauto670 I've only done a couple of head gaskets on 2 Pontiacs and I had to remove the oil inside the lifters in order to prevent ticking, remove air and the water/oil mixture after the head gasket failure. I just saw this video and another one on a Taurus I guess is not necessary. Thank you for the quick response!
I have a B3000 that has slowly lost compression. Going to try and figure it out next weekend. I have heard the heads on these 3.0's are the problem. I hope it is the heads, not the rings because I do not have a hoist. Thank you for the video. It is a big job, but I think I can tackle it. Those Ebay heads, are they good quality? I may just buy two of them instead of machine shop route.
Mike Griff Thanks for the post Mike. I did have good success with the heads I purchased on line. I would, however, attempt to have the originals reworked if possible. I sure hope you're successful in the repair!
Fantastic video 100%, Im assuming you never had a problem with the torque on the head bolts? They're torque to yield stretch bolts and you mentioned 65-75 ftlbs instead of two 90 degree turns. I put mine at 65ftlbs and im not sure if that's tight enough.
Starting in 1999, ranger, 3.0, Torque to Yield head bolt specs call for 37ftlb, loosen 1 turn, 22 ftlb, 90 degree, 90 degree. These bolts yield (stretch) starting at about 57-60 ftlb. Be ready fir the dreaded "SNAP" if you try to get to 59ftlb!!
I am looking at buying a 1999 ford ranger with a 4 cylinder engine. The chief complaint will not shift out of low 2. Afet watching your video, wondering if this could be what is wrong with it. Wish you were closer. I am a 59yr old preacher who has had 11 back surgeries.. Just can't do what I use to do anymore. Cars and trucks were something I always enjoyed.. Can you give me some insight on whether to buy this truck or leave it alone?
Hey David. Good question. Sounds like it has a transmission issue. It probably needs to be rebuilt. That's going to be very expensive. You might want to steer away from this one.
Hello, very good video. I have a 1998 Ranger with 3.0 engine. I'm putting new heads on the engine. Can you help me please with the correct procedure of adjusting the rocker arms/valve adjusting. Thank You
@@resurrectionauto670 Okay thank you very much. I need the torque specs definitely. Just to re-clarify I assumed that you had to torque them with the valves closed & that there was a process setting them correctly. In the past always do with engine idling- can't do that on this 3.0 engine - buried under everything
Just curious if you noticed when you started a cold engine, your temp sensor went immediately to the middle like it was already warm. Mine did the same and I wasn’t sure why. Any ideas? Thanks
Hi, I am attempting to replace the head gasket on my 2000 ford ranger 3.0L V6. I misunderstood the part where you drained the radiator, and instead of unscrewing the plug, I disconnected the two hoses that are shown at 3:31 in the video. The fluid that came out looks to be engine oil but I'm not entirely sure what it is and I'm worried that I messed up big time. Could you possibly tell me what those hoses are and if so what I need to do to refill them? Thanks a ton, your video has been very helpful so far! -Josh
Great question. You did not mess up big time. Transmission fluid is pumped up to the radiator for cooling. It is kept separate in the radiator from the cooling fluid (antifreeze). Transmission fluid is what you saw coming out. Continue your repair as normal. When you reinstall the radiator, just hook back up the lines. You may want to cover the lines when you make the repair just to ensure you dont get any dirt in them. You can check the transmission fluid level after the repair is done. It is unlikely that you lost enough to make a difference. Although do be aware if you drive the vehicle with low transmission fluid it will quickly damage the transmission. Make sense?
Thank you so much for your reply!!! Yes that makes perfect sense, thank you! Before seeing your response I went ahead and reconnected the hoses because I was afraid of losing more fluid so hopefully no dirt got into them. Should I leave them connected now or take them off again and cover them? Sorry if that's a dumb question, I'm a novice and not that far into the repair so far. Thanks again!
Your questions are no bother. If you are doing a head gasket job then you will need to remove the radiator from the vehicle. So yes, disconnect the lines and cover them with a glad bag for protection. The transmission contains 11 quarts of fluid (nearly 4 gallons) so again its unlikely you've lost enough to make a difference.
Thanks for the comment No... not that I am aware of. The heads have enormous pressure due to combustion. A pression fit is essential to prevent failure. The intake simply rest on top of the heads. It needs to be cleaned and torqued but not resurfaced. Make sense?
This video was instrumental in fixing my cracked heads,same engine same truck. You sir are my hero. Thank you so much for making this video me and my daughter thank you we followed your instruct.ions step by step and as of tonight our truck is running again! Thank u soooooo much!
Dan, I am delighted that your truck is back on the road. You certainly did all the hard work!
The purpose of hydraulic roller-tipped valve lifters is to eliminate clearances in the valvetrain. For these later model 3.0 Vulcan engines, it is NOT required that pushrods need to go back to the same position and orientation they were removed. For the inexperienced do-it-yourselfer it's great advice, but that applies to use of flat tappet lifters which do create a wear pattern on themselves.
Interesting thing that not many are aware of is that the roller-tipped valve lifters in these Vulcans are the same part number as the roller lifters used in 1985-1995 302/5.0L H.O. motors found in Mustangs/Cobras, Mark VII, etc.
I am a renewed Christian! thank u for this video! i have a 2000 Ford Ranger 3.0 and i just had my lower radio hose burst yesterday. lost compression in 1 & 2 cylinder. gonna use this video to learn! God bless you!
Just completed an engine swap on my 3.0 Ranger. I put all new gaskets in the junkyard engine and this video helped a ton. Thanks!
DJ Wadholm You're welcome! So glad it was helpful.
You know I'm not big on religion. And I usually look down upon people who try to push it on me but this video feels different. Like you're not pushing it on me but letting it ride beside me. I appreciate it. Good work sir
Cyode Thanks for that comment Cyode. You correctly captured my disposition. I deeply believe Christianity is true and hope that others will consider it. I've tried to communicate that in a way that is not pushy or overbearing, just honest like a good friend. Thanks for checking out my channel.
Props on labeling everything, it can be tedious but it definitely helps during reassembly. I personally don't have the patience to label everything with tape so I typically end up using different colored window paint. Just make a good clear mark from plug to connector end so that reassembly is just a color match.
Thanks for the comment Caleb. That's a good idea!
Here's a tip to get the fan nut loose. Use an air hammer chisle tip on the nut in the direction to loosen BEFORE undoing the belt. The shock will bust it loose.
Wesley,, for someone who claims to be a novice mechanic, seems to be pretty well versed in 3.0L ford.
Thanks Buddy for the kind words. I'm actually a full time pastor. Automotive repair is a hobby so I'm definitely an amateur. Glad to share what I've learned though!
I come from a family of mechanics but not even a part time pastor. Vocations don't exactly go hand in hand.
If you think about it, they are not too distant fields. In automotive repair, the mechanic resurrects a broken vehicle using a book for reference. (Here a shop manual) In ministry, a pastor resurrects broken people using the Good Book for reference. (Here the bible) Good pastors and good mechanics have this much in common....they set things straight again. If you get a chance...check out my other videos...especially that one on becoming a Christian. Take care and God bless!
@@resurrectionauto670 -ohh absolutely..!
@@buddy7164 “My Cousin Vinny”. “My father was a mechanic. My brother was a mechanic. Three uncle’s from my mother’s side were mechanics” :-) LOL
wanna say thank you!! god bless hopefully i can get this done im nervous that ill mess up but your vid will help!! god bless im a christian too!!
Thanks for the comment Michael. I have confidence in you. You can do it!
The dreaded 3.0L head gasket! Very common on these fords! Have a blessed day!
Just finished mine. thanks saved me 2500 dollars🤙
Brett Vosseller So glad it helped. Did your truck fire right up?
Yes exactly praise the Lord amen you really help me save me $2,500
Great video broski, I just had the same issue, I decided to just buy new heads instead of machining them, it's like 300 dollars more, and I just made sure that there were no micro cracks
I like you, sir. Became myself Christian in 1988. I work on cars, also.
Best description of what to do, hands down! Thank you
Thanks for the video. i am trying to decide whether to keep my Ranger and replace the heads or finally let it give up the ghost. I have a 2000 ranger with flex fuel and 306000 miles, but i have used castrol syntec it's entire life and changed it every 5000 miles. I have rebuilt, personally not had a mechanic do it, the entire front end from the frame up at 275000 and have replaced the timing chain, water pump, alternator, radiator, power steering pump, idler and tensioner ,tires, and AC clutch in the last 75000, now this. Love the truck and hate car payments but I am wondering if I'm throwing away money. Your video will help if I decide to give her a few more years. BTW I am also a Christian and appreciate the statement of faith. Also I saw the tell-tell signs of a true mechanic in your cut and bloody finger(lol)
Dennis Wyrick Thanks for the comment. That's a tough call. Honestly, the head job is not really that bad. It will allow you to see the cylinder walls to check for wear. It's free to tear down!
Best of luck my friend!
This is one of the best car DIY videos I've seen. Thank you so much! I'm all done, now I just have to figure out why my truck is idling rough. If I turn on the AC it dies and it feels like it's lost some power on the top end. I'm guessing that it's a vacuum hose issue. Now I just have to find it.
That is excellent work Glenn. Hope you can find that vacuum leak!
Faulty Idle Air Control Valve perhaps?
Excellent video and tutorial! I'm going to replace my head gaskets this weekend. Thank you again!
Thank you so much for this video, I was intimidated at first, but finally gave it a try..your video guided me all the way! Thanks again!
Glad to hear your truck is up and running. Good job on the repair!
Thank you my son and I will be doing the same job this up coming week. This will come in very helpful
Nicely done. very easily but to all who watch your video note that all plugs only go in one location only. So please mark them if it makes it easier. Also pressure washing the engine before breaking down is good. Shade tree or backyard mechanic video well done .thank you.
Praise the Lord and pass the ratchet
Great video is very helpful with each step needed to do the job. Thanks for given your time doing it.
J Garcia Glad it was helpful!
Watched this video to help figure out how to get the injectors out. Thank you! Excellent video.
Thanks for the comment. Glad to be helpful!
Injectors are only held in by the fact that the fuel rail is bolted to the intake by four small bolts. After that's removed they just pop out. Sometimes they stick in the intake and sometimes they come out with the rail.
I’m a Christian as well. I’m so bless to come across your video. I recently given a Ranger 1998. It’s a blessing to my family. Recently find out it has a blown gasket. I don’t know what to do. Please email if you can help. God bless.
Hey John. Glad you found the video. It should give you step by step process of the repair
Thanks again for this video. It is extremely. helpful I am just finishing this job on my 2000 ranger. Two of my rocker arms have some jiggle after being torqued, I hope it will be fine.
dooberoso You are more than welcome. The jiggle is perfectly normal. The others would do it as well but the are engaged on the Cam and under tension. Let us know how the repair turns out.
Just going to say thank you so much god has blessed you. I have a 4.0l that blew a head gasket after I did a clean then replaced from the cheapest to the most expensive thermostat then water pump then radiator. I feel defeated with my truck but I know just like the lord keeps me going I can keep this truck going! I will say it would be awesome if you could help me and make a video hey hey shout out to you hehehe god bless.
Glad to lead a hand! The 4.0 is much more difficult to deal with a blown head gasket. Most of them are overhead can. Very complex!
Watching this again and I'm pretty sure that wasn't the first time you started it at the end. Your engine was already up to running temperature. Did it start up immediately on the actual first time? I would imagine you had to prime the fuel pump by cycling it a couple times at the ignition switch. I think changing the fuel filter is something you should change while doing a head gasket because you've already had to release the fuel pressure so might as well. Only takes 10 minutes. I also changed the injectors micro filters since I had them out. I hate the the upper intake on this truck and how it covers the injectors but also how debris gets under it. Mine was nasty with 20 years is junk all over the valve covers. I think I spent more time cleaning them than the head and block. 😂
Great video. It was short(compared to the actual job) and told you everything you needed to do to complete this job. You helped me with mine. Thank you.
The area the head gasket seats doesn't need to be shiny and new looking. Just flat and smooth. And only where the gasket actually seals around holes(coolant holes, bolts holes, and cylinders). The rest isn't quite as important. Just make sure no oil or anything is present in those areas. I'm just saying this to others watching because you'll see others on CZcams that use power tools to try to make the gasket surface shiny and polished looking. Plus I don't feel comfortable flinging tiny bits of debris into my engine as a result of using power tools.
Just wanted to say you and your video was a god-sent my family and I were at odds with what to do with my truck I followed your video and it saved us thank you so much
So glad to hear that!
The BEST rust penetrant spray is actually a 50:50 mix of acetone and synthetic transmission fluid. Give it a try. It works faster than PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench.
Good video, much better than most. I will add this though: I am doing my 3.0 1999 Ranger right now. I was afraid of pulling and re-installing the injectors, looked like trouble coming to me, and at $60/ea...... So I left them all in place, and there is enough slack in the fuel supply line that I just moved the manifold and injector assembly off onto the driver side quarter panel, cleaned it right there and left it.
That's perfect. Good job!
I'm working on my 4.0 in my 99 Ranger, both cylinder heads cracked between the valves, this video helped point
me in the right direction. Better than my Haynes Repair Manual. . . which is just like
"Do this and this and this, why did you buy this repair manual again? was it to get real help while doing your engine repair, surely not!? hahahaha.. "
Thanks for the comment! Glad to be helpful.
Hope mine goes as smoothly as yours did, I'm looking at replacing or repairing my drivers side cylinder head, low compression in #6. Great vid.
Joe Costantino Glad the video was helpful! You may consider doing both heads while you have everything apart. The exhaust vavles naturally wear so when one goes out, the other may not be far behind. Beat of luck with your repair.
I watched the video over again and got confused by the part # on your gasket set. Like you did I bought the complete set for the head up but my part # ends with a 5. (My Truck is an 03 Flex Fuel), not sure if the head gaskets changed or what the difference is maybe cause of the upper intake plenum (mine is plastic) but I triple checked and I got the right part # :)
Joe Costantino Joe. The Ranger I repaired was a flex fuel model. I'm not sure why there are differences in your gasket kit. Hope your repair goes well.
Joe Costantino Joe, you may want to do both heads while you gave it apart. The other is likely to fail soon. The Vulcan motor heads are know for head gasket failure around 180k.
She's up and running now, been doing good for about 2 weeks now no more misfire, ended up buying 2 reman heads from Allied Motor Parts out of Georgia off Ebay. $310.62 for both. So far so good.
Love the wrench dot.
Haynes says to use engine oil on the head bolts.
If the motor was overheated to the point where it blew the head gaskets it has most likely annealed the rings. When I replace a Ranger 3.0L I use a Taurus motor only because they are more available. You need to replace the head gaskets tho because the coolant flow is reversed from front wheel drive to rear wheel drive.
Great video. I have an 03 ranger 4.0 looks just like yours.with all the work you did in labor. should have replaced the water pump and timing chain while you had it all apart.
Execllent vidio. I've do a lotof engine work, mostly older stuff, but you've covered all that I 'd like to see on this vintage engineTks again.
this is an amazing video for anyone who needs to do anything on this motor. thank you! it helped me figure out how to get the injectors out lol
sadly it still misfires so I think something else is wrong. sigh.
Thanks for the comment! Best of luck with your repair!
Rebuilding same engine and your video was great. God bless and thank you
Great video. One question since your video does not seem to address this: when loosening the ac/power steering bracket, there are three bolts in front. I see that you removed them, but I don't see any way of removing them without removing the tensioner pulley. Were you able to remove them without removing the tensioner pulley? Thanks for a very informative video. Great tip to label everything!!!
Watched from start to finish, good job!
Thanks! Glad it was helpful to you.
Thank you for this video pastor! Many blessings for you and your congrgation!!
Hi.
I followed your repair video
On my 2000 ford ranger 3.0, i changed the heads and head gaskets, lifters, rods, fulcrums. Put everything back. I turcked the rocker arms like the book said. Put 5 30 oil but my lifter sound like a diesel. Oil pressure is ok. But lifter are after market. The car is running but like a diesel. I will buy an oem lifters and try once again. Any suggestions. I will appreciate. Thanks.
Hey Pastor,
Over all a great video. I am finishing a swap out with a remanufactured engine after 330,000 miles. I was trying to get a picture of a similar throttle leakage, but your job was to different. Oh well. However, on your project, after an over heat with 185,000 (?) miles, and two cracked heads, a new camshaft synchronizer (thirty dollars at amazon) would have been a worth while investment. If you start getting a strange recurring " tweet, tweet,..." sound that you can't find, put a steal rod to the CSS (the vertical part at the very back top of the engine, just before the fire-wall), and the other end of the rod to your ear and you should be able the hear the synchronizer asking for help.
Keep on teaching the GOOD WORD, and swing wrenches.
keith imel Keith,.thanks for the comment and the corrections!
All of those Ford 3.0L Vulcan engines rust inside over time even when you use quality anti-freeze and flush the system regularly... I flushed my cooling system once a year and every year and at 24 years old the freeze plugs all started rusting out from the inside. When we pulled it apart the rust in the water jackets was unbelievable. But still a great running engine with over 300k miles on the odometer.
William Jones Good comment. 300k is impressive!
Idk why but rust goes with ford like white on rice lol
I've watched your video a few times. Solid info. I just noticed you didn't burp the cooling system after wards. Did you burp it but not add that part to your video? I'm guessing so seeing engine temp guage was half way up when you started it at the end. you should include how important it is burping the system because if you do not do so you don't air pockets stay in the system can overheat and destroy the engine
Will Fry Thanks for the comment Will. You are correct, I did ensure the cooling system had no air pockets. It's hard to capture each step. Glad you pointed it out.
Thanks for the video. I knocked out the headg gasket replacement on a 99 Ranger XLT Splash this afternoon that I brought for 800 bucks. I should be able to sell it for at least $2500 now. But I think I might have developed a bit of a truck crush. I'm thinking about keeping it. :-)
That is fantastic! Good work!
Trucks are like women. You get slightly attached to them once you get deep inside them. Just say’n.
its a ford ranger xlt with the 3.0 v6, its a 94. yes its driveable but weak. yes i put new gaskets in when i done it. it sounds like its in the throttle body, i can feel it in my foot thats on the gas petal,and it is a slower knock than a rod.
Found your video very helpful to get an idea 💡 on how to get the lifters out. I thought it was doable without removing anything other than the valve cover. Now i know how to attack this on my truck.
Christopher Christopher Excellent! Glad the video was helpful.
This is the best channel I have ever found
Mason S Thanks for the comment Mason
Christian + Pastor + Mechanic = SUPERMAN !
MrMarkntime Thank you. You're kind.
Amen
I have a '93 ranger that I'm currently working on. Long story short, I was driving it after fixing the timing and it started acting like it was losing compression. Drove it back to the house ended up thinking it might be a head gasket issue but I'm stumped. Head gasket was fine, valves look fine, and not I have the engine in pieces. Advice? It has the 2.3 4cyl.
thanks, your video is really helping me... I'm 15 and I'm doing the head gaskets on my truck its a 1999 mazda b3000 v6 se and so far so good, I got it almost back together...
Good job Vincent! I hope it fires right up. Make sure you post here and let us know how it turned out. God bless.
Vincent Santos Damn vinny, tell me how that works out for you.I've got the same truck 01 and got to do the same thing. I'm very proud of you being 15 taking on a task like this.
I'm 15 too! I'm doing complete engine rebuild for a 3.0 v6 mercury topaz, has the same engine. I'm replacing some things, including bearings and all of that, almost complete. I just have to install again the engine on the car.
Good job! Let us know how it turns out.
Zone B I'm 17 and I got a 2002 ford ranger with the same v6 so this video makes the job 200 times easier
Hi. I'm going to replace the head gaskets and rebuild the heads. This video is going to be very helpful
Moises Lugo wonderful. Keep up posted on your progress.
Resurrection Auto I have the engine out. I'm taking the intake off and the heads in a little. I am not a mechanic. But I'm trying to do it to learn. Anything I should know please let me know. Thanks.
The ranger runs really good after rebuilding the heads and replacing the head gaskets. But now that I drove it for the first time the overdrive light is flashing.
Novice Mechanic he says.. ..Wink Wink I wish I was a Novice mechanic with knowledge and skills like yourself Great video well done. I have a 94 Ranger 3.0 56k original miles on it that when I first bought it six weeks ago On the drive bringing it home it lost complete power wouldn't go over 10 mph stopped at a repair shop told them to check the motor out It had a really bad Misfire, They told me it needs a fuel pump And filter and complete tuneup Long story short I put $1500 into it, No change still have a bad mis I Took it to the ford dealer They told me I have 0 lbs compression in one Cylinder ,I could beat the first Mechanics ass For Not Telling me or Not doing a compression Test... Live and learn
So sorry you had a bad experience. I very well may be a blown head gasket. Hard to say without taking it apart. Best of luck with your repair!
Good video. @ 13:15 you called the a/c compressor a power steering pump. LOL it's all good until you put freon in the power steering. Have a good day
Dude is killin me with that "ERG" valve 😂😂😂
Thank you and our Father God bless you. Nice work and a good video!
Glad to lend a hand!
It just kills me to see people using tap water instead of anti-freeze in their engine. I've seen it before and will probably see it again. It's ironic because they done it in another 2000 Ford Ranger with the same engine. Once winter hit and it got cold enough to freeze it ruined everything under the hood including the heater core. Basically anything that had water running through it will freeze and bust. I give you many props for doing this kind of job for your first time and keeping your sanity. You must have the patience of Job. I'm just curious, what happened to the driver's side airbag?
Brian Smith Brian, thanks for the comment. The air bag was detached because I was also repairing the horn switch. It was unrelated to the head gasket repair.
Thank you for uploading this video.
Hi. God Bless you!
Great narration and views. You make this look easy. I'm a DIY doing my first engine and I'm replacing the Heads on my 2003 Mazda B3000 3.0L. Seems cracked Heads are notorious for these engines! I've gotten down to the cylinder heads with just your video. Just a quick question:
I have the two L/R rear Exhaust Manifold bolts broken also. UGH! Can you tell me how you got them out please? There's no space to drill or use an extractor and I don't have a welder to attach a nut as I've seen in some of the 'How-To' videos here. Much appreciate you NOT fast forwarding through the process like some of the videos.
Much thanks!
Glad you are repairing your truck! Just take the heads to the machine shop with the broken studs in them. The machine shop can easily remove them.
You did a great job, thank you.
Thanks for the comment. Glad to help!
I probably would not. I would think there is too great a risk of getting water in places it should not be. However, I did clean the engine when it was an back together.
This was a great video and helped me alot thank u rev for ur time and video.
A common failure for the 3.0L is a bad or failing water pump. After doing all that work and having the engine open, good idea to change the water pump. Also the Cam positioning sensor syncro should be replaced while your there.
Agree. It was quite expensive to do this repair for me. So I had make some choices as to how much I would do.
Maybe... I'll check
I don't
Exoust gas recirculation valve, (EGR)
Thank you so much for this video, I had a question about the procedure. When you put the head gasket back on, did you use any sealant or anything to aid with the head and gasket mating?? Thanks, getting ready to tackle one of these soon, appreciate your feedback.
Thanks for the question. No, I don't use any kind of sealant on the head gasket. Just make sure every thing is ultra clean during installation. Feel free to message me if you have questions during the rebuild. Best of luck with your repair!
Thanks brother
so the rear most third cylinder rod must be removed ?
Thanks for the vid Wesley, Im about to do the same project.
davidsquall351 You're welcome David. Hope your truck comes back to life!
Thank you for the video. You explained everything very well. God bless
Glad to lend a helping hand. Best of luck with your repair!
Thanks for making this video because I’m about to fix mine!!!
Chez Haataja Excellent. I hope it goes well!
Anthony, thanks for the reply. Do you think the timing could be off? That might explain the two symptoms. 1) running but no power 2)noise through intake.
Thanks for the video. Helped me get through my 2001 Ranger head gasket repair. Great Job
Glad I could lend a hand! Good job on your repair.
This video will be very helpful when I get around to doing my head gasket. I have a question or two if you can help me out :D
Thanks for the great video. Im lookin at the same issue on my 99 B3000. Its having so many age related issues, I dont even know if I should mess with it. On the other hand, I cant afdord a new truck :(
bruce lonsinger Thanks for the comment Bruce. The good part about Rangers is that parts are readily available and cheap. Let me know if I can help you out.
Too late to help this guy but personally I would not have reused this block. If it was overheated it's highly likely the rings have lost their tension and it will burn oil. Rust in the cooling system is due to never changing the anti-freeze. Anti-freeze turns to acid after 4-5 years which is why manufacturers recommend changing every two years (I know, old school). This is the same engine as a Taurus Vulcan so if you can't find a Ranger motor in a junk yard you can use a Taurus motor but you will need to pull the heads and replace the head gaskets because the anti-freeze flows in the opposite direction.
either your missing a bolt on the A/C compressor like me or that's how they are mmm. I'm doing my lower intake plenum gasket because it's leaking oil this weekend.
Amen
Thanks for the vid probably gunna just buy new heads and bypass the machine shop experience i dont know if this is true but in school i was tought you should never loosen bolts with a torque wrench
Stewart Postman Thanks for the comment Stewart. I believe most if not all of the head you find in automotive stores are refirburished. The machine shop I use locally does an excellent job and it's cheaper. I think you are correct on the torque wrench. Using the to loosen bolts probably compromises calibration. Best of luck in your repair.
Thanks for a great video, now I know what I’m against. Merry Christmas and a happy New Years.
I am about to do this do I have to bleed the lifters ? Thank you
Hey I’m not sure what you mean by bleed the lifters
@@resurrectionauto670 I've only done a couple of head gaskets on 2 Pontiacs and I had to remove the oil inside the lifters in order to prevent ticking, remove air and the water/oil mixture after the head gasket failure. I just saw this video and another one on a Taurus I guess is not necessary. Thank you for the quick response!
Thanks for the video im going to replace the heads on my 93 ranger my low compression is causing a misfire
Diego Delgado Best of luck with your repair!
Fantastic! Thanks for your response.
Campus Cult Alert You're welcome. Best of luck with your repair
Very helpful video, I will put a engine in my 2001 tomorrow and see what happens 😂
Excellent. Let us know how it turns out!
Quick question my engine heats up oil and smoke coming out of oil dip sticks and creamy lookin oils on oil cap, what seems to be the issue?
Blown head gasket…likely
Great video man thank you
I have a B3000 that has slowly lost compression. Going to try and figure it out next weekend. I have heard the heads on these 3.0's are the problem. I hope it is the heads, not the rings because I do not have a hoist. Thank you for the video. It is a big job, but I think I can tackle it. Those Ebay heads, are they good quality? I may just buy two of them instead of machine shop route.
Mike Griff Thanks for the post Mike. I did have good success with the heads I purchased on line. I would, however, attempt to have the originals reworked if possible. I sure hope you're successful in the repair!
Fantastic video 100%, Im assuming you never had a problem with the torque on the head bolts? They're torque to yield stretch bolts and you mentioned 65-75 ftlbs instead of two 90 degree turns. I put mine at 65ftlbs and im not sure if that's tight enough.
Great question. It's been some time since I did this job. I believe I used the published specs on this head bolts.
Starting in 1999, ranger, 3.0, Torque to Yield head bolt specs call for 37ftlb, loosen 1 turn, 22 ftlb, 90 degree, 90 degree.
These bolts yield (stretch) starting at about 57-60 ftlb.
Be ready fir the dreaded "SNAP" if you try to get to 59ftlb!!
I am looking at buying a 1999 ford ranger with a 4 cylinder engine. The chief complaint will not shift out of low 2. Afet watching your video, wondering if this could be what is wrong with it. Wish you were closer. I am a 59yr old preacher who has had 11 back surgeries.. Just can't do what I use to do anymore. Cars and trucks were something I always enjoyed.. Can you give me some insight on whether to buy this truck or leave it alone?
Hey David. Good question. Sounds like it has a transmission issue. It probably needs to be rebuilt. That's going to be very expensive. You might want to steer away from this one.
Thank you..
God Bless you my brother through God. Very nice video. Very well done. Keep up the great work.
Hello, very good video. I have a 1998 Ranger with 3.0 engine. I'm putting new heads on the engine. Can you help me please with the correct procedure of adjusting the rocker arms/valve adjusting. Thank You
Good question. The Ranger has hydraulic lifters and needs no adjustment on the rocker arms. Best of luck on your repair.
@@resurrectionauto670 So just tighten them down?? Trying to figure if both valves need to be closed,ECT. Just want to make sure I don't screw them up
@@richardteagarden881 sould be a non interference engine. Should be fine to tighten them. There a torque spec. I'll try to find it for you
@@resurrectionauto670 Okay thank you very much. I need the torque specs definitely. Just to re-clarify I assumed that you had to torque them with the valves closed & that there was a process setting them correctly. In the past always do with engine idling- can't do that on this 3.0 engine - buried under everything
Just curious if you noticed when you started a cold engine, your temp sensor went immediately to the middle like it was already warm. Mine did the same and I wasn’t sure why. Any ideas? Thanks
On mine, the engine had been recently run and was still warm. I’d replace the sending unit on yours
Hi, I am attempting to replace the head gasket on my 2000 ford ranger 3.0L V6. I misunderstood the part where you drained the radiator, and instead of unscrewing the plug, I disconnected the two hoses that are shown at 3:31 in the video. The fluid that came out looks to be engine oil but I'm not entirely sure what it is and I'm worried that I messed up big time. Could you possibly tell me what those hoses are and if so what I need to do to refill them? Thanks a ton, your video has been very helpful so far!
-Josh
Great question. You did not mess up big time. Transmission fluid is pumped up to the radiator for cooling. It is kept separate in the radiator from the cooling fluid (antifreeze). Transmission fluid is what you saw coming out. Continue your repair as normal. When you reinstall the radiator, just hook back up the lines. You may want to cover the lines when you make the repair just to ensure you dont get any dirt in them. You can check the transmission fluid level after the repair is done. It is unlikely that you lost enough to make a difference. Although do be aware if you drive the vehicle with low transmission fluid it will quickly damage the transmission. Make sense?
Thank you so much for your reply!!! Yes that makes perfect sense, thank you! Before seeing your response I went ahead and reconnected the hoses because I was afraid of losing more fluid so hopefully no dirt got into them. Should I leave them connected now or take them off again and cover them? Sorry if that's a dumb question, I'm a novice and not that far into the repair so far. Thanks again!
Your questions are no bother. If you are doing a head gasket job then you will need to remove the radiator from the vehicle. So yes, disconnect the lines and cover them with a glad bag for protection. The transmission contains 11 quarts of fluid (nearly 4 gallons) so again its unlikely you've lost enough to make a difference.
Mad skills
any reason to not just replace the one side only? if only one cylinder is bad?
Well done and helped me out. Much appreciated, friend!
Glad to lend a hand!
Good Detailed Video. Two thumbs up
What was torx size you used when you got to the lower intake manifold??
What's a good way to get the brown water and oil mix out of the engine
Good question. You could drain both. Tamale the repair. Tun the engine for a very shirt time. Change it again. I might do it twice
Great video. One question, is it necessary to resurface the lower intake manifold mating the heads?
Thanks for the comment
No... not that I am aware of. The heads have enormous pressure due to combustion. A pression fit is essential to prevent failure. The intake simply rest on top of the heads. It needs to be cleaned and torqued but not resurfaced. Make sense?