those gold wires are dyebonds which are wirebonds. The aluminum wedgebonds are 300 micron thick and should never be soldered back onto the board, the gold ones are i think in the ballpark of 5 to 25 micron thick. If you ever mess one up let me know we have a 50-300 micron wirebonder that is able to make that as the factory intended it to be, also great job on the mgchemical compound its alot cheaper than oem silver paste and more manageable in syringe form. a quick tip store that stuff in your fridge as it can actually go bad on room temperature within a month after opening.
Thanks Luey for the great video, it's much appreciated. Hopefully I never have to use it. If only you could come up with a solution to my 147 GTA selespeed not changing gear when warm.
I'm staying away from selespeeds, but have heard new pump and accumulator reservoir helps? Also some people have trouble because of the brake sensor but I don't think that's only when it's warm!
Gearchange position sensors (potentiometers) probably… they become temperature-sensitive when oil has leaked into them. Replace sensors and do end-of-line calibration
Hey Luey, we're (my mechanic and I) having trouble with my 2007 Alfa 166 3.0V6 Sportronic ECU and it seems to be the immobilizer that's playing up. I've come close to sending the ECU to Europe to be "virginalized" but chickened out because it's very expensive and not a guaranteed fix. I have opened the ECU and the capacitor seems solid. I was just wondering is it worth removing the capacitor and replacing it using the method you used here. If so, what's the best way to remove it? I realise this is an old vid so any help would be greatly appreciated. It's a lovely condition 166 and I would love to get her going again! Thanks for the vid and info. Greetings from the Bay of Plenty. 🙂
I think we've emailed each other a couple of times. My recommendation is to courier it to me and let me check it first. The capacitors can look fine but the connection could be dodgy. Also best to take a video of the exact symptoms so I can see if its actually ECU or not
@@LueysGarage there are quite a few options out there now, they don't have to be the latest and greatest if you are keeping the car fairly standard. I've seen second hand wire in ecus change hands for 300-500NZD
Hi Mike. Do you know where to get one for a 2007 166 3.0V6 Sportronic. Long story but let's say I've been having a mission trying to get mine "virganilzed" as we think it's an issue with the key/chip immobilizer. With a new ECU do you need a new key chip to match and if so do you know where to get them. Cheers guys, I'm in NZ too btw.
So this was a few years ago and honestly from my recent experience you don't need to change the capacitor, they are fine. Just reattaching them to the PCB solves the issue 99.9% of the time. I do still have spare ones incase I lose one or there's some obvious damage. Sometimes the contacts can bend or wear out for example.
Hello, my 147 GTA is starting to have ecu failing symptoms, been practicing soldering on some cheap used twin spark ecus since they're the same, but it's not that simple. Is cold solder recommended for long term use?
Definitely do the conductive epoxy in your case, it's not an easy solder job and you can damage your ECU permanently very easily. Grab a decent multimeter with some small probes and you're good to go
@@__Dany well they used that from factory and probably a much inferior product to what we can buy today and yet it's still lasted 20 years. It's very easy to do it again in the future anyway
@@LueysGarage Hey Luey, I successfully repaired mine with the conductive epoxy, just 2 things to point out, the old capacitor was actually well stuck on the pcb, couldn't test it with the multimeter because of all the sticky mess, proceeded to replace it anyways and it's working, for now. The other thing is the capacitor with the black dot, the link you provided on the other video its dimensions are smaller than the original one on the ECU, did you have the same situation as me?
@__Dany that's good to hear, my capacitor with the black dot was the same dimensions as the old one, but as long as it has the same specs and you were able to mount it it will be fine
Great video, I watched your other video many months ago and was put off doing the job. Is this the same process on a twin spark ecu from a 156? Ive yet to open the ecu on the car, its been off the road 5 years.
Great job. I find myself in the situation where I have to do it as well. What capacitor exactly did you use? I only found out it is a Kemet 15mF 35V, don't know anything else. Thank you!!
@@LueysGarage Thanko you very much! I saw it now, may I ask you how did you find it out? It seems impossible to check what's the correct resistance from the code. Is it relevant in you opinion?
@@LueysGarage Exactly! I read all technical documents from Kemet but I couldn't find any info about it. I understand the information contained in the product code "T495D156K035ATE300" you suggest but I couldn't find these on the capacitor itself. Since I have your feedback that it works I have no doubt about it, I just was wondering if I was missing something... 😄 I'm an engineer, I guess I just need to understand things.😂
We've soldered the capacitors in the past but its risky given the elements are so small and the silicon protective layer melts when heated up. The conductive epoxy is very solid and makes a good connection, I test every single capacitor afterwards to make sure its got connection to the board. Its really up to you what method you choose but we've been having a lot of success with the conductive epoxy
Thanks for the video Luey. Let's hope I never have to do this to my second ECU but at least now I know what to do.
Hope you do another vid with the ECU installed and the car running and driving.
those gold wires are dyebonds which are wirebonds. The aluminum wedgebonds are 300 micron thick and should never be soldered back onto the board, the gold ones are i think in the ballpark of 5 to 25 micron thick. If you ever mess one up let me know we have a 50-300 micron wirebonder that is able to make that as the factory intended it to be, also great job on the mgchemical compound its alot cheaper than oem silver paste and more manageable in syringe form. a quick tip store that stuff in your fridge as it can actually go bad on room temperature within a month after opening.
Thanks for letting me know, we do have a few ECUs which need rebonding. Where are you based?
Hi @@LueysGarage we mailed you but I dont think you've seen it ;)
Many thanks 👍👍💪💪
Thanks Luey for the great video, it's much appreciated. Hopefully I never have to use it. If only you could come up with a solution to my 147 GTA selespeed not changing gear when warm.
I'm staying away from selespeeds, but have heard new pump and accumulator reservoir helps? Also some people have trouble because of the brake sensor but I don't think that's only when it's warm!
Gearchange position sensors (potentiometers) probably… they become temperature-sensitive when oil has leaked into them. Replace sensors and do end-of-line calibration
Hey Luey, we're (my mechanic and I) having trouble with my 2007 Alfa 166 3.0V6 Sportronic ECU and it seems to be the immobilizer that's playing up. I've come close to sending the ECU to Europe to be "virginalized" but chickened out because it's very expensive and not a guaranteed fix. I have opened the ECU and the capacitor seems solid. I was just wondering is it worth removing the capacitor and replacing it using the method you used here. If so, what's the best way to remove it?
I realise this is an old vid so any help would be greatly appreciated. It's a lovely condition 166 and I would love to get her going again! Thanks for the vid and info. Greetings from the Bay of Plenty. 🙂
I think we've emailed each other a couple of times. My recommendation is to courier it to me and let me check it first. The capacitors can look fine but the connection could be dodgy. Also best to take a video of the exact symptoms so I can see if its actually ECU or not
Looks like a solid gold reason to splash on an aftermarket ecu 🤣
That is definitely the best long term solution I have to say, but also quite expensive
@@LueysGarage there are quite a few options out there now, they don't have to be the latest and greatest if you are keeping the car fairly standard. I've seen second hand wire in ecus change hands for 300-500NZD
@@Mike-ry4ti I think that's what I'll do, try a cheaper ECU solution and document that...would be a helpful longer term solution
@@LueysGarage especially if there is a plug and play or loom adapter solution available and standard basemaps for the engine you have.
Hi Mike. Do you know where to get one for a 2007 166 3.0V6 Sportronic. Long story but let's say I've been having a mission trying to get mine "virganilzed" as we think it's an issue with the key/chip immobilizer. With a new ECU do you need a new key chip to match and if so do you know where to get them. Cheers guys, I'm in NZ too btw.
what problems were there with the car that you changed capacitor?
So this was a few years ago and honestly from my recent experience you don't need to change the capacitor, they are fine. Just reattaching them to the PCB solves the issue 99.9% of the time. I do still have spare ones incase I lose one or there's some obvious damage. Sometimes the contacts can bend or wear out for example.
I need help to my ECU to repairs how much I want to come to your shop tomorrow
Don't have a shop and I live in New Zealand...
Hello, my 147 GTA is starting to have ecu failing symptoms, been practicing soldering on some cheap used twin spark ecus since they're the same, but it's not that simple. Is cold solder recommended for long term use?
Definitely do the conductive epoxy in your case, it's not an easy solder job and you can damage your ECU permanently very easily. Grab a decent multimeter with some small probes and you're good to go
@@LueysGarage My doubt is if the conductive paste lasts as long as a firm solder...
@@__Dany well they used that from factory and probably a much inferior product to what we can buy today and yet it's still lasted 20 years. It's very easy to do it again in the future anyway
@@LueysGarage Hey Luey, I successfully repaired mine with the conductive epoxy, just 2 things to point out, the old capacitor was actually well stuck on the pcb, couldn't test it with the multimeter because of all the sticky mess, proceeded to replace it anyways and it's working, for now. The other thing is the capacitor with the black dot, the link you provided on the other video its dimensions are smaller than the original one on the ECU, did you have the same situation as me?
@__Dany that's good to hear, my capacitor with the black dot was the same dimensions as the old one, but as long as it has the same specs and you were able to mount it it will be fine
Great video, I watched your other video many months ago and was put off doing the job.
Is this the same process on a twin spark ecu from a 156? Ive yet to open the ecu on the car, its been off the road 5 years.
It should be exactly the same, the ECUs are almost identical. Just need to open up the cover and have a look :)
Great job. I find myself in the situation where I have to do it as well. What capacitor exactly did you use? I only found out it is a Kemet 15mF 35V, don't know anything else. Thank you!!
Check the description of my original video, I've put the link to both capacitors czcams.com/video/QJNpy7W252g/video.html
@@LueysGarage Thanko you very much! I saw it now, may I ask you how did you find it out? It seems impossible to check what's the correct resistance from the code. Is it relevant in you opinion?
@@giuseppewelz7764 there's text on the original capacitors and you just need to know what the text represents and then find the right part 😊
@@LueysGarage Exactly! I read all technical documents from Kemet but I couldn't find any info about it. I understand the information contained in the product code "T495D156K035ATE300" you suggest but I couldn't find these on the capacitor itself. Since I have your feedback that it works I have no doubt about it, I just was wondering if I was missing something... 😄 I'm an engineer, I guess I just need to understand things.😂
Did the car run after??
Yep I just fixed the other capacitor using the same method on this exact ECU
I need ECU for Alfa Romeo 147
There are some on Facebook groups for sale
😌 p̲r̲o̲m̲o̲s̲m̲
Need to give it to a master who knows how to solder ceramic circuit boards, and not breed all this dubious horror with glue !!!
We've soldered the capacitors in the past but its risky given the elements are so small and the silicon protective layer melts when heated up. The conductive epoxy is very solid and makes a good connection, I test every single capacitor afterwards to make sure its got connection to the board. Its really up to you what method you choose but we've been having a lot of success with the conductive epoxy