Video není dostupné.
Omlouváme se.
12v Appliances & Accessories for Preppers and Hams
Vložit
- čas přidán 11. 08. 2020
- Do you really need an inverter for your offgrid system? Learn to identify your 12v appliances and eliminate the AC-to-DC adapter.
#thetechprepper #inverter #12v #offgrid #bioenno #solar #battery #hamradio #andersonpowerpoles #2.5mm #2.1mm #poweradapter #automotivefuseholder #fusedcable #prepper
If you're new to the channel, welcome! I'm "The Tech Prepper" and I try to produce weekly videos on all topics related to preparedness. Thanks for supporting the channel! If you like the content, don't forget to hit the thumbs up icon, leave a comment, and subscribe to the channel. "Be strong, be safe and be prepared." -- The Tech Prepper
Products:
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. If you're interested in any items shown in the video, you can help the channel by using the affiliate links below. It doesn’t cost you anything.
1. Valley Enterprises 2.5mm x 5.5mm Straight DC Male Power Plug with Anderson Powerpole Connectors - amzn.to/3icUC94
Related Videos:
1. My First DIY Solar System - • My First DIY Solar System
Episode: #60
Follow Me:
1. Instagram: / thetechprepper @thetechprepper
2. Twitter: / thetechprepper1 @thetechprepper1
3. Companion Site: www.thetechpre...
Thank you soooo much for explaining this in a way I can understand 😊
You're welcome. Simple language for the win. Have a good one.
Older video but gets you thinking... Thanks
You're welcome!
Thanks for updating as you go.
You’re welcome. This channel is mostly about filming my after hours projects and thoughts on being prepared. Honestly, I did not think anyone would be interested, but I’m glad there’s interest. The 12v freezer episode is coming up next month.
Wow!! your channel is so cool!! Unique!! Informative!! Keep Going!! and be sure to "back-up" your presentations, multiple platforms (and keep no-tech versions, i.e. your words and diagrams on pen and paper)
Thank you so much. It’s just a fun little hobby. Don’t tell anyone... I have no idea what I’m doing. CZcams production, video editing and sitting in front of a camera are all new to me. I’m glad you’re enjoying the channel. Welcome!
@@TheTechPrepper Thanks for the welcome! I've been subscribed since about June 28, just recently commenting and such.
Thanks for putting this together. There are obviously some things preppers need to get before worrying about tech when SHTF but for those of us who have air, water, shelter, food and lead throwers covered; tech will massively increase our grid down productivity and security.
For compact systems that are close to their power supplies DC is more efficient power source than AC. Only use the AC inverters if you need to throw your power 'long' distance or lack of large cable gage is a limiting factor. Remember when using DC the higher the gage the more efficient it'll be.
No problem. You're right, once you have your core preps in place, tech has a place. For the last 6 months, the channel has been focusing on offgrids comms. The ability to power and effectively use comms without a grid tie absolutely increases our capabilities as preppers.
Let me add a data point. The issue is not AC versus DC, but the difference in voltage. For a given amount of power required, the higher the voltage the lower the current. Power lost in transmission is related to the square off the current. Again, for a given power required, a 12vdc system requires about 10x the current of a 110vac system and that’s where the power lost in transmission comes from.
Furthermore, transformation of DC voltage is more challenging (doable but not as simple) than transformation of AC voltage. This is one of the main reasons Westinghouse’s AC distribution system supplanted the Edison DC system. It’s fairly simple to transmit AC power at high voltage (lower current and lower transmission loss) and then transform it to line voltage near the use point.
This is a reason why some solar installs use higher DC voltage (24v or 48v) - to reduce the current required to transmit power and thus reduce loss.
This is a long response, but is something I’ve been thinking about quite a lot over the last couple of years.
DC-DC buck converters are one way to transform DC voltage, but they are relatively low power and can be radio noisy. I have one to power a Raspberry Pi from my station supply that is quiet and my Pi only draws about 500ma to run.
In the end, this is a huge topic of great import to prepares and radio operators. Thanks for taking on the project, Gaston. 73 de AG7TX
Very nice video! I’d like to see your refined mini solar generator. And once you get it all in place, I’d love to see your solution for your freezer. That’s what I’d like to do, is to have a system for my fridge and freezer, with the possibility to run a few lights.
Same here
It's absolutely on this list of videos to make. I still have a few more components to purchase, so this could take a few weeks (I still need to buy a 100Ah LiFePO battery, misc cables and find a good 12v freezer).
Nice finds! Have been trying to keep all my electronics chargeable over DC 12v power cables or USB cables in my van with a GoalZero battery bank (charge via 12v while driving or solar) - the Anderson connectors and fuses seem like a good idea too! 👏
I’ve heard great things about the GoalZero. Nice setup.
Hello Gaston. With regard to charging the portable radios that I have, I'm looking for tweezers that "grip" directly on the contacts, this saves you from having to charge the charging pads. I'll look for a picture to show you...
Fine business! The inverter is a nice tool to have but DC to DC is definitely the way to go when possible. Boost and buck converters will step voltage up and down as needed, and for 12/24V systems those are pretty easy to find from automotive suppliers.
I agree 100%. Chris, you always seem to be my first viewer. I appreciate your support! I have a couple of buck converts for going from 12v-to-9v and 12v-to-5v. I may add this list to the videos to produce. Take care.
Nice video! Good info I can use and good presentation.
Thanks. I'm glad you enjoyed it. It may be time for an update video as I've refined a few things.
Thanks
You’re welcome! :-)
Good advice and nice job presenting it! Keep us up to date with your larger 12V project!
Thanks, Ray. Also, thank you for the original idea of ditching the inverter. I’m pretty sure it was you who had made the suggestion.
While this may not be a new video it showed up in my for you at the perfect time thank you very much for your content
Glad you found it useful. I can't even remember what I talked about in this video. 😂
Not only are you losing efficiency at the inverter bit there will be power losses from the ac to dc conversion with the wall wart
Absolutely great point. We’ve been running directly off the 12v battery for awhile now. The WRT54G is a 12v device, so we were in luck so need for a boost or buck converter.
Thanks! I've wondered if there was something I was missing when thinking about doing this.
No problem. It's pretty straight forward. If you want to see another 12v battery option, go to my channel page an search for "generator". Check out the battery build on the hand dolly.
Great idea
Just what I was looking for. Thanks.
Glad you found it useful. This video needs a major update. I've learned so much more about my 12 volt systems over the last year. It's time share some more nuggets of information. Take care.
@@TheTechPrepper an update would be great.
You are heading the right way. When you design your PV system keep this general rule in mind to keep I^R losses low and minimize wire guage required. Keep your DC current to 100A or less. You will find that the industry already tends to follow this rule in sizing inverters, etc.
Also, the off-grid lithium battery industry has skipped over 24VDC batteries going from 12VDC straight to 48VDC. So if you are designing a system to support a 1500W-3000W inverter you should consider a 48VDC battery system instead of a 24VDC.
I went with 16ea. 100W Renogy monocrystalline PV panels and two Morningstar Solar Prostar MPPT-40M charge controllers. This allows my to run 1200W of PV to a 24VDC 150Ah battery bank comprise of four 75Ah 12VDC AGM batteries powering a Samlex 3000W pure signwave inverter. This can be used to power my refrigerator or small portable or window HVAC. The components were chosen based upon reported reliability and FCC class B rfi noise certifications.
The 400W of PV system can power a 12VDC 75Ah of AGM battery for powering radios and other small 12VDC gear.
I do have a 12VDC 300W Samlex inverter that I mainly have for plugging into my Chrysler 300.
I have 18VDC tool batteries, fans, and lights with enough power for 2-3 days of fans and lights before I need to deploy solar.
Breakers and box are from Midnight Solar and I have a system wide GFI from Morningstar Solar that does NOT require an earthground.
As I built the system 5-6 years ago I stand by my build decisions at that time. With the industry as it is now I probable would do a 48VDC battery system.
My systems are meant to be portable. I cannot install solar on my condo, nor can I use a generator after a hurricane due to CO2 issues and code.
As I did a portable system I used 3 conductor flexible rubber jacketed portable power cable to PV array, battery bank, and inverter. The three conductor cable gives me flexibility as to where I put my earthground should I use one and it allows an easy way to tie the grounds together from one end of the system to the other.
One last important note. Look at the latest NEC for solar. There is a DC voltage limit of I believe 85VDC at the component level. For PV panels it is based on open circuit voltage. This for the safety of first responders to prevent or reduce the likelihood of electrocution. Four 100W nominal 12VDC panels exceed this voltage by 2-3 volts being around 18.5VDC pmax and 22VDC open circuit voltage.
NEC has to be adopted into local building codes before becoming effective and applies to new construction and major renovations. Find out where you area is related to the latest NEC and design accordingly.
Also, inverted losses are fixed based upon voltage drops across descreet components like diodes. That is one reason higher voltage PV systems, battery banks, and inverter acheive higher efficiencies.
Excellent tips. Thanks for sharing. I started a separate build over a year ago to solve the CO2 problems indoors. It's basically a 100Ah LiFePO4 battery on a dolly with a 3000 watt pure sine wave inverter. Works very well for running the fridge for 24 hours.
czcams.com/video/Dk07XA_i0MI/video.html
Great video. How is your project coming along? My shack (it really is a small wooden tool shed) is located about 200m from my house. Totally offgrid. I have been powering it with about 120w of solar panels and a couple of smaller AGM and LiFePO4 batteries. That includes all radios, a Raspi 4b, a full sze LCD display (found in a junk pile, input 12v), HT chargers, etc. Where something other than 12v is needed I use buck converters. Lights are rechargeable LED lanterns (amazon, of course) and a 5v goose neck LED light. They and the Pi run on 5v. My laptop (Lenovo Thinkpad) has a long battery life. In any case I have a DC to DC charger for it.
One MAJOR advantage to a DC system is no RFI from inverters, power supplies or other AC devices in the shack. The mppt charge controller is shielded even though it emits very little RFI. Being in an olive grove I have zero intererence from our neighbor, about 200m away from the shack in the opposite direction, and about the same distance from the power line. My background noise is about S-zereo.
I have ordered from Alliexpress a 12v to 13.8v DC transformer (around 47 Euros) to ensure my radios get the 13,8v they desire. I have some battery monitors and low voltage cutoff to keep my batteries happy, especially at night when the sun doesn't shine. This will be less of a worry in the future. See below. Also there is a an 8 port fused, Anderson power pole strip (see Amazon and other sites, ca 75 bucks). That will clean up my wiring mess!
I am upgrading everything now. I suggest you visit the website and YT channel from Will Prouse for ideas about PV systems for homes and RV's. I am now building a system based on one of his suggestions. It consists of 400w of solar panels (2x200w in my case), 2x150Ah AGM batteries (can't afford LiFePO4 batteries that large), my Epever MPPT solar charge controller already in use. For the shack it will be a 12 system (batteries connected parallel). For the home back up system (see below) I will probably configure it as a 24v system, especially considering the size of the planned inverter. The wire connection inverter and battery is thinner and cheaper.
I will also get a 3000w pure sine wave inverter. But not for the shack. Where we live we experience power outages of various lengths. They seem to be getting longer. We have generator to power most appliances in the house (we have a transfer switch and can cut our house off of the grid), but fuel is limited. With the "small" PV system that can easily be transported to the house, we can continue top power our appliances (on a rotating basis) and our cistern water pump so that we have running water and hot water (we have a siphon based solar water heater).
I got some great ideas from Will's YT videos and his book "Mobile Solar Power Made Easy." Not just for the RV crowd.
Got to 3:10 then paused and ran around the house looking at all my chargers......shocked to see all that output DC!!
Crazy, right? Just stick with straight DC. Why switch from DC-to-AC-to-DC? Very inefficient. Have a good one.
If you do decide to use an inverter it may be more expensive but try to get one that's a pure sine wave inverter especially if you plan to charge or power high-tech devices such as computers for devices with computers in them.
I ordered a USB 5 volt to 12 volt cable in hopes of running my WIFI router from a power bank. I have a Rockpals 280 watt hour power station and in a test I ran my WIFI for six hours and lost 19% of the charge using the AC output. But during a power outage I`ll need to recharge the Rockpals with a 60 watt solar panel and my internet will be interrupted for hours.
I saw one of the converter cables and ordered four and a multimeter to test the polarity and voltage so I won`t damage my router. I have 15 power banks and six smaller wattage panels with USB ports to keep plenty of those charged for various devices and they should also easily power a 5 watt 12 volt WIFI router too.
The 20 to 30 watt portable USB solar panels easily power a small USB fan even on cloudy days and it`s much less expensive than buying batteries for fans after hurricanes and other bad storms. I also bought a little 12 volt DC water heating element that you place in a cup and a cigarette port adapter for my 60 watt panel. Hopefully I can heat water with the 18 volts coming from my 60 watt panel with it without damaging anything so I can have instant coffee. It`s rated at 120 watts and my panel puts out about 50+ in bright sun. What do you think? Will it work but just slower or will my panel burn out? I haven`t received it yet.
Well, it sounds like you have a plan to power your small devices during an outage. I've personally found that anything with a heating element has a high current draw. Do you know amp rating for your water heating element? As for solar, do you have a charge control between the solar panel and your 12 battery? The charge control is designed to safely charge your battery and then allow you to connect your load to a stable 12v source. By the way, I did a video where I grind and brew coffee on a portable battery/inverter setup.. You may enjoy that video. czcams.com/video/Dk07XA_i0MI/video.html
@@TheTechPrepper It`s this thing on Amazon. I`m at my sister`s until I get moved, which might not be before the next crazy storm or hurricane, and she only has an electric stove. I bought a Coleman stove and can also use the cigarette lighter output of the Rockpals to use this to quickly heat a cup of water but have become curious about hooking this directly to a 60 watt (or larger) panel with an adapter without a battery.
I plan to live out my days in a travel trailer in a very rural area and will likely run as much as possible off solar even if I have to buy the system one piece at a time. I`m disabled but still able to get around but have little money. I have enough saved to get my trailer and get it hooked up so I`ve used the stimulus checks to prep. It gets hot here in Louisiana when the power fails after late Summer hurricanes.
I got the Rockpals for WIFI after storms because we have poor cell service here so that`s useless for internet and I got a bunch of power banks and 20-30 watt portable solar panels to run fans, lights, and to use with USB battery chargers to keep radios and flashlights going because that was the immediate issue.
That next step up in solar....running larger things like freezers and refrigerators, is out of my league right now but it`s a goal. I`m trying to make the right decision towards that goal while I have money for larger purchases like decent inverters and charge controllers for a 24 volt system but still don`t know what to do. It may not be possible due to trees on the south side of the lot unless the panels are 40 feet in the front across a gravel road. One trip to the store and my panels would probably get sold to the scap yard by thieves. But at least I now have power for the small stuff. I`m extremely happy about that. The bastards can`t turn off my lights and fans now! LOL!
@@TheTechPrepper Here`s the water warmer description on Amazon: 120W COPPER TRAVEL WATER HEATER PORTABLE CAR 12V IMMERSION WATER COFFEE BOILER
@@baneverything5580 I hope you're able to make the best of the trailer. My wife and I tried it for about 6 weeks while we were between houses. It's actually a really pleasant and simple lifestyle. I don't want to steer you in the wrong direction, so I'd like to point you at what I believe to be the best source for your situation. Since you're already on CZcams check out Will Prowse. His earlier videos on "DIY..." are a great set of starter references. He even talks about options. I would start with this video: czcams.com/video/IRRKHYwB3Uo/video.html He also has a great book that is reasonably priced. Check out his website: www.mobile-solarpower.com/ Best of luck!
Just a comment on fuses. Fuses are to keep the wire from becomming an ignition source and do not protect your equipment. To determine your fuse size you take into consideration the wire gauge and the length of the wire. The length with a negative and positive wire is going to be twice the length, or the round trip from the battery and back. Highly recommend the Blue Sea wire charts to make these determinations. Love the videos.
Thank you for the correction. Yes, you are 100% correct. Glad you like the videos.
Did you ever do a video on your DC solar chest freezer?
Another thing, modified sine wave vs pure sine wave. Sensitive electronics typically don't like modified, and motors specifically don't like modified sine waves.
1.23 k subscribers?! You’re famous! 😉❤️
Awe. Thanks, Jessica. One of the videos I posted seemed to do very well. “10 Things I’m Doing Before November.” It’s around 37,000 views in just a few weeks. Not bad for this little channel that started as a hobby. Take care of yourself and thanks for popping in. 😊
Ft-60 and the ft-818 use the same wall wart.
keep the inverter it may still be useful, transmitting power over distance the one example if you need to go a couple hundred feet the 12v dc won't do so good. you might find a more efficient inverter.
Nice suggestions. Just have to ask....what do you use the old Lynksys router for? Happens I still have one too.
Could you help with music? For those of us that can't play and in case of need for powerless music what would you recommend? Thanks for all your work.
That’s a good point and there are many ways to solve this problem. Here’s what we do: we travel with a small battery powered Bluetooth Bose speaker. Our model uses a micro usb cable for charging. It’s 5 volts just like our phones and tablets. We basically connect a $10 buck converter to go from 12v to 5v. Here’s the one I use: amzn.to/3hsKABu
Would anyone be interested in a quick video on how to convert 12v to 5v? This would allow you to charge your phones, tablets and other usb devices off a 12v system.
Harmonica or Jaw Harp and bottle of whiskey for those that have to listen to you play.
Due to the non-renewable nature of whiskey your compadres will be forced to go foraging for supplies. Getting them to comeback with whiskey is a problem I haven't yet solved.
Maybe there is a DIY Project Monarch that I am not aware of.
You weren’t taking into account the losses in those crappy plug in transformers.
When making your own cable and after cutting off the wallwart, how do you know which wires are positive and negative to put the powerpoles on?
Good question. Typically, the wire with the white stripe or dashed lines will be the positive. The negative typically has no markings.
I have gone to rechargeable battery with a no need for dry cell batteries when the Power form how are we to charge we still have to burn fossell fuel or use charged car battery 😊
Try 48v system low loss.
A DC powered freezer sounds interesting. Cant wait to see how thats done.
This might be the best non-shill introduction to 12v fridges and freezers. m.czcams.com/video/ija2LmLVZHA/video.html
If you lose home power wont the cell towers be down as well as the home internet?
Do you need to regulate the output of the battery too the divice for direct connect? Or dose the input device determine the current drawn. Ps the fuse is just for surges rite?
The battery provides a voltage and a potential current. A load device draws a specific current related to the supplied voltage.
The load device is looking for power as Watts within a designed voltage range. The lower the voltage the more current the device draws to get the required power in Watts or Volt Amps. Increased current causes additional heating in the load device. In well designed devices the device shuts down due to lower voltage. In poorly designed devices all the magic prayer smoke escapes through a critical component sometimes causing spectacular catastrophic failure.
Catching up on comments. Thanks for jumping in. Excellent response, Viron.
Sorry I can't put pictures here... 😕
Can you tell is what you use the router for?
The RV is parked on the far side of my property. We have no cell reception and the wireless network does make it far enough to the RV when using a laptop. With the antenna on this router I can get a signal from the house. I use it as a wireless bridge so that I can access my home's primary network and Internet gateway when working in the RV.
Why do you call yourself The Tech Prepper? Yes, you have some reviews of technology that preppers use, but you also have reviews of non-tech things that preppers use, such as food. Did you have a career in some tech field? What was the field?
I’m glad you asked. I’m a software engineer specializing in building search-driven applications and web content management systems. When I first started this channel, I had a series called “Tech Mornings with The Tech Prepper.”