The way the drywall anchors are removed gives a great demonstration of how much effort it takes to remove them, but the actual force on them is much more likely to be a shear force, rather than a lateral force. This means the force test (ft lbs) should be performed in parallel with the drywall rather than perpendicular to it.
Maybe shear forces dominate when something is hanging on it, but it's a different story when a klutz is hanging a heavy painting or such. This is when the fitting fails. Use a butterfly mount from the start. You have to be really clumsy (falling off the chair...) to pull one of these babies through the drywall.
I also use a fine “Tech style” Flat head screwdriver, sharp enough not slice into drywall and when inside I twist around enough for the size of anchor . Also a great tool to identify if you run into any material behind .
It's a must for me, the walls of my house have about eight coats of paint on them and the drywall anchors have a little trouble cutting through that to get to the actual drywall. And actually it's not even drywall, I just found out yesterday it's gypsum boards with a smearing of plaster on top.
Drill a small pilot hole or even take the tip of your screwdriver and a hammer and tap through the paint and drywall paper. Once the plug is secure in the gypsum behind the first layer of paper, feel free to screw it in until it’s flush.
As a phone and cable contractor from the 90's through around 2015, I must have used 10k of these. Awesome anchors. Maybe 20 seconds longer to install than a standard molly, so why would you bother with the latter? I saw the same tip I use was already posted, but I'll repeat it. A #2 round shank Phillips screwdriver makes an absolutely quick and very clean pilot hole. If you are putting in a bunch at a time, you can quick-zap them in with a drill driver, but leave them proud of the drywall. Then come back with that #2 Phillips and bring them flush to the paper. I can't recall ever having one fail, or start spinning once the screw was home. Guess I was lucky? Always enjoy a notification of your newest video. Thank you brother. From all of us... you know who
Thank you , I have had this happen in the past and have done other things to fix this when it happens and it always sucks. This was an awesome and simple fix ! Also thanks for being down to earth and not pretentious when showing us not in the know what to do.
Thanks for another really useful, and concise video. Is there a chance you could review vacuum hoses for track saws? I can't decide if I want to dump the cash into the festool hose that I see used in almost all track saw online content. The smooth outside covering looks like it works way better than the typical corrugated hoses that get caught up on stuff on the bench, and the way it wraps around the wrist looks super useful. I learned a ton from your recent video on vacuum bags and filters, and the one on air filters. Keep making these videos - your's are the best because you give examples from your own experience, which includes lived pro experience that is invaluable. But you also include pragmatic cost-value breakdowns that anyone (from home DIYers to pros) can use to make their own decisions. That's a really tricky balance to achieve - nice work.
Thanks for this video. I work in a hardware store and we don't get trained on information like this. This will help me next time a customer asks how to use drywall anchors.
E-Z Anchor toggle locks are the best of both worlds. They provide the best holding power out of all the anchors. Including the toggle one you showed on this video.
Thank you for this, I had a set of curtains come with these style of anchors and the damn screws did not fit past 2/3 of the way in and after it got past a certain point the anchor got over turned and was useless. I'll be sure to buy my own from now on. As a follow-up, could you show if you use washers or something with that alternative anchor and how that could be used in real use case scenario's. Thanks
I'm usually only putting in a couple of these at a time so I actually predrill a hole for the anchor and if it needs to be completely flush I make sure any paper that is sticking up is pushed back into the hole and then I form (without hammering) a slight divot/countersink around the hole with the ball shaped end of a screwdriver handle. This enables the anchor to go in totally flush without having to use excessive torque and risk fracturing the drywall. If the paper gets folded up under the head you will often strip the anchor hole before it will crush in flush. An extra couple steps but my success rate went way up when I started doing this.
@@crabwalk7773 I forgot to mention I also lube the screw threads with something non-oily that won't migrate like bar soap, tallow or wax. I prefer one swipe of the screw on a bar of soap but when I'm helping out my dad he forces me to use his little jar of tallow he's had for about 50 years :)
Well, bugger me: I got this right the first time! I kinda felt it was better to be slower and gentle, and it worked perfectly. Thanks for a professional confirmation 😀
Thank you so much. I am that person who needs each step explained and why. I totally messed up my walls I hate hanging stuff up and try 3m products whenever possible.
@@gladitsnotme Take the phillips screwdriver and use as a drill bit...rotate it back and forth into the dry wall to make a pilot hole/relief hole for the anchor. This helps to keep the face of the sheetrock from pushing out when the anchor tries to get flush.
Do you have a solution to when you put these in and the insulation inside the wall wraps around them and the tension in the insulation makes them unscrew themselves? Cheers
Snaptoggle for life! They’re unbeatable with up to 265lbs of capacity in 1/2” drywall. Worth the money. (Zip toggles are very similar) You’ll never use a regular toggle bolt again.
I absolutely HATED my experience with the zip toggles, but I had insulation directly behind the sheetrock I was working with. NEVER use zip toggles with insulation abutted drywall unless you hate yourself.
Quick fix for pulled out anchors. Remove the screw from the anchor, blow out any loose plaster from the hole and the anchor. Squeeze a lot of Goop glue into he hole, making sure all side of the hole has a heavy coating and then coat the anchor with it. Put the anchor back into the hole allow a couple hours to dry and put the screw back in. The Goop will run down the back side of the wall and provide some extra strength.
If I'm using drywall anchors for anything around the house outside of a picture hanging on the wall I use the ones that self tap AND have the toggle built in. They are by far the best drywall anchors on earth.
I flip over the anchor and scribe an x-acto knife around perimeter through paper, this prevents the anchor from tearing up drywall paper as it is going in. Looks a little cleaner.
I was on a project where we were using thousands of those Anchors in 50 year old 1/2 inch sheet rock that should have been replaced. we found dipping them in some sheetrock compound before installing is helpful. But you truly need decent sheet rock of the proper thickness to get them to work right.
I screw the screw in first as a pilot hole, always use an impact, and never have a problem. No way I am driving 50 or more of these in daily by hand. This guy must do this as a hobby.
One of the things You did not mention, is those Metal ones are usually meant to be put in wherever you have a Stud in the wall, Thought I would rather just use a longer screw if I searched for a Stud and needed a screw at that spot.
I need to hang an acrylic display case with mirror back to display some nice models. It will be 50/60 LBS inside the case plus the weight of the case. What’s the best method to ensure it never comes crashing down? The mounting holes in the case are pre drilled and I can’t center on studs so it has to go into the drywall
I ha two anchors holding a small towel rack that got pulled out. Making big gaping holes close together. I think I have to cut the piece of drywall out
I discovered with those is I can put them in - very gently - with my power drill, but stop when it's about 1mm (1/2 turn) from making contact. Then I'll insert the screw I intend to use and carefully ease it in. If the toggle doesn't rotate I'll bottom the screw to tighten it that last little bit and then back the screw out as far as I need to. The screw backs out with a lot less resistance than it went going in so usually doesn't try to back the toggle out as well (and a simple micro-flathead can 'pin' the toggle from rotating. It's annoying but it works).
What I do is, before installing, hold the anchor with pliers and run its screw in all the way, this pre threads it allowing any screw to smoothly go into the anchor ( and be removed smoothly) then install. This prvents the drywall issues from ever happening.
I pop a hole in the drywall with a nail set and then use the clutch to limit the amount of pressure torque the drill can produce. I didn’t realize the plastic ones were better.
0:20 the first one (metal) is designed for use into drywall AND backed by metal or wood studs. The middle one is for drywall ONLY. And the one on the right is a lower weight rated piece for drywall.
The Fischer Duoblade drywall plugs are far, far, far superior to the metal and plastic versions IMHO, if you get these in the states. The grip is really impressive.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter You get amazing grip when screwing them into the drywall, even if you over tighten which I did the first few times. When you screw your attachment on it feels so secure, but yes would be interesting to see the holding strength. (I don't work for Fischer! )😁
I grew up in Germany with using Fischer wall anchors in the 1970s and 1980s, now living in the US since 1995. Different walls in Germany than here, but "Fischer Dübel" were the standard. Just read that Artur Fischer only died in 2016 and had more patents than Thomas Alva Edison. Have never come across Fischer products here in the US stores that I frequent, found something online now and will check them out.en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Artur_Fischer
Use toggles. If it's a hollow wall, you should use toggles for anything over about 2lbs. Not because of the weight directly, but because the lightweight options rip up the wall with any real weight. Use the toggle and have a ton of holding capacity from day 1. Monkey hooks are GREAT for light/medium weight items too.
First and foremost if you're going to use a drill drive it all the way to the lowest setting humanly possible drop the speed down as low as possible. Preferably take your screwdriver bunch of small hole in the drywall then use your screw to screw the anchor into the drywall.
Yes and don't use power drills for everything. In my work, I sometimes meet clients who are watching and then ask: "Why don't you use a power drill." - Thinking that it would be quicker save time and reduce my charge for labor. I have a collection of power drills and an impact driver, always carry them with me, but for certain things, I stick to using my trusted and efficient Channellock ratching hand-screw driver. Much more feeling in my hand to avoid over-tightening anything.
Off topic, I know, but this video is more recent and I don’t know how comments work on your end of the CZcams. I’m hanging a single, standard 30x30 kitchen cabinet in my dining area. I ran across a curious thing and hoped you’d see this to give me an opinion. The studs are 16” on center. Exterior wall. No **visible** outlets or plumbing. One of the two studs I’d planned to attach the cabinet to suddenly disappears at about the 82” point. As you travel up the wall, my stud finder finds and finds and then suddenly nothing. One stud is there all the way up and one seems to just discontinue. What do you suppose is happening there? I needed that area to attach the cabinet unless I can get away with leaving a few screws off the 6” of missing stud on one side of the cabinet. Any ideas would be great. Thanks and great channel. I’ve already picked up a bunch from your tips. The caulking video was insanely helpful.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter thank you! That must be it because there is something running horizontally along the area that the stud finder picked up. It’s weird because it is not exactly next to the window. Also thanks for the reply! Cheers.
![Eminem - Houdini [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/22tVWwmTie8/mqdefault.jpg)
The way the drywall anchors are removed gives a great demonstration of how much effort it takes to remove them, but the actual force on them is much more likely to be a shear force, rather than a lateral force. This means the force test (ft lbs) should be performed in parallel with the drywall rather than perpendicular to it.
Maybe shear forces dominate when something is hanging on it, but it's a different story when a klutz is hanging a heavy painting or such. This is when the fitting fails. Use a butterfly mount from the start.
You have to be really clumsy (falling off the chair...) to pull one of these babies through the drywall.
I always use a very small drill bit to pilot hole before popping one of these in. Seems to stress the plaster out way less when turning in.
Sometimes I punch a hole with a Phillips screwdriver. In my experience,if you want to use the plastic ones, some kind of hole is almost a necessity.
I also use a fine “Tech style” Flat head screwdriver, sharp enough not slice into drywall and when inside I twist around enough for the size of anchor . Also a great tool to identify if you run into any material behind .
It's a must for me, the walls of my house have about eight coats of paint on them and the drywall anchors have a little trouble cutting through that to get to the actual drywall. And actually it's not even drywall, I just found out yesterday it's gypsum boards with a smearing of plaster on top.
I am confused, are all of you talking about a penis?
Me too
So ahem. How do I put the anchor in.
Drill a small pilot hole or even take the tip of your screwdriver and a hammer and tap through the paint and drywall paper. Once the plug is secure in the gypsum behind the first layer of paper, feel free to screw it in until it’s flush.
As a phone and cable contractor from the 90's through around 2015, I must have used 10k of these. Awesome anchors. Maybe 20 seconds longer to install than a standard molly, so why would you bother with the latter? I saw the same tip I use was already posted, but I'll repeat it. A #2 round shank Phillips screwdriver makes an absolutely quick and very clean pilot hole. If you are putting in a bunch at a time, you can quick-zap them in with a drill driver, but leave them proud of the drywall. Then come back with that #2 Phillips and bring them flush to the paper. I can't recall ever having one fail, or start spinning once the screw was home. Guess I was lucky? Always enjoy a notification of your newest video. Thank you brother. From all of us... you know who
Excellent advice I will use. You tone of speaking is easy to listen to and follow.
Short and sweet thank you. Toggle bolts make a lot of sense for those gaping holes.
Just what I needed and I went out and bought the right stuff and fixed it!❤ Thank you
Good video I have been doing handyman work for a long time and I learned the lessons you share on your video, good job.
i drill a small hole then poke a thin wooden skewer through the hole to see if there is a pipe behind it first
Thank you for an intelligent, no nonsense, video!!
Thank you , I have had this happen in the past and have done other things to fix this when it happens and it always sucks. This was an awesome and simple fix ! Also thanks for being down to earth and not pretentious when showing us not in the know what to do.
Have you tried bullfix ?
Thanks for another really useful, and concise video. Is there a chance you could review vacuum hoses for track saws? I can't decide if I want to dump the cash into the festool hose that I see used in almost all track saw online content. The smooth outside covering looks like it works way better than the typical corrugated hoses that get caught up on stuff on the bench, and the way it wraps around the wrist looks super useful.
I learned a ton from your recent video on vacuum bags and filters, and the one on air filters. Keep making these videos - your's are the best because you give examples from your own experience, which includes lived pro experience that is invaluable. But you also include pragmatic cost-value breakdowns that anyone (from home DIYers to pros) can use to make their own decisions. That's a really tricky balance to achieve - nice work.
Great tip. I have many of these in my supply, but am hesitant to use for THIS very reason. Thanks Funny Man!
OMG YOU JUST SAVED MY HOUSE. THANKS A LOT
Glad to hear that!
Incredibly helpful
Thanks for this video. I work in a hardware store and we don't get trained on information like this. This will help me next time a customer asks how to use drywall anchors.
Thank you! Had no idea the screw threading would be an issue.
E-Z Anchor toggle locks are the best of both worlds. They provide the best holding power out of all the anchors. Including the toggle one you showed on this video.
What if there is brick behind the plaster? Fail.
Then drill in the brick, moron😂😂 duh
Hearing the scream at 2:17 is so funny 😂
😂I liked that part to
Love your content and especially your sense of humor!
Thank you! The humour is pretty mild, I’m glad you appreciate it!
Thanks for the tips! Really useful
Thank you for this!
Thank you for this, I had a set of curtains come with these style of anchors and the damn screws did not fit past 2/3 of the way in and after it got past a certain point the anchor got over turned and was useless. I'll be sure to buy my own from now on. As a follow-up, could you show if you use washers or something with that alternative anchor and how that could be used in real use case scenario's. Thanks
And of course, if you hit a wall stud, you're just going to make a mess. I always predrill a small pilot hole. Hit a stud? Don't need an anchor.
That Caulking video changed my life!!
Great video .
Great tips mate. 💪🙂👍
This was very helpful!
Thanks!!! You just saved my life! I screwed up a hole! Lol
I'm usually only putting in a couple of these at a time so I actually predrill a hole for the anchor and if it needs to be completely flush I make sure any paper that is sticking up is pushed back into the hole and then I form (without hammering) a slight divot/countersink around the hole with the ball shaped end of a screwdriver handle. This enables the anchor to go in totally flush without having to use excessive torque and risk fracturing the drywall. If the paper gets folded up under the head you will often strip the anchor hole before it will crush in flush. An extra couple steps but my success rate went way up when I started doing this.
Thank you!
@@crabwalk7773 I forgot to mention I also lube the screw threads with something non-oily that won't migrate like bar soap, tallow or wax. I prefer one swipe of the screw on a bar of soap but when I'm helping out my dad he forces me to use his little jar of tallow he's had for about 50 years :)
@@theslimeylimey Very much appreciated - thanks again!
I have no idea what you just said but evidently it was good. I need a video demonstration!
@@theslimeylimeycould you go a little more into the reasoning of the swiping with soap and or tallow?
Well, bugger me: I got this right the first time! I kinda felt it was better to be slower and gentle, and it worked perfectly. Thanks for a professional confirmation 😀
Very good help a lot this video I fix my problem table a lot
Thank you. I feel like an idiot needing a video to install these, but thank you for being there. lol
So very helpful and much needed information (for me for sure)! Thanks funny carpenter! DIY Padawan learner here! 😂
Cheers🍻 and thanks for watching
Thank you so much. I am that person who needs each step explained and why. I totally messed up my walls I hate hanging stuff up and try 3m products whenever possible.
Thanks for the great tips.
Nicely done video.
I turned my wall into Swiss cheese using the wrong screws.. Great video.
Thanks for checking it out🍻
These are my favorites, never had one fail that wasn't my fault.
Thanks for sharing this with us! Awesome channel! Just found you , new subscriber, thank you.👍🏻
Thanks for checking out the channel Thomas, hope some of the tips will come in handy in the future!🍻
Great tip! Thanks...
Thank's for the video
Good vid, thanks! 🤝🏾
I have installed several of these only to have the anchor screw in deeper when trying to turn in the included screw. You can have them!
Answered one of life's great questions here.
IKR
I've been using the screw in anchors for several years. It really was a game changer.
I just put holes in my wall trying to use those😢
This is a nice video with useful information about what not to do, but I still don't know how to install my anchors.
To keep the drywall from mushrooming and to save time ...I use the round shank Phillips as the pilot hole drill and that makes a cleaner flush.
an electrician taught me this a long time ago and it's made life hanging stuff on walls much easier
You mean you just manually screw the screwdriver in? Or use a Phillips head driver bit?
@@gladitsnotme Take the phillips screwdriver and use as a drill bit...rotate it back and forth into the dry wall to make a pilot hole/relief hole for the anchor. This helps to keep the face of the sheetrock from pushing out when the anchor tries to get flush.
I often use a countersinking tool to reduce mushrooming of the substrate.
Do you have a solution to when you put these in and the insulation inside the wall wraps around them and the tension in the insulation makes them unscrew themselves? Cheers
Thanks
Thanks!
Thanks for this video. You’d think after using drywall anchors countless times I would have learned a thing or two. Toggle bolts, here I come 😂😂😂
My garage wall thanks you sir.
Very helpful
I went from zero to hero in 6.9 seconds after watching this video
Brilliant, thanks!
Snaptoggle for life! They’re unbeatable with up to 265lbs of capacity in 1/2” drywall. Worth the money. (Zip toggles are very similar) You’ll never use a regular toggle bolt again.
I absolutely HATED my experience with the zip toggles, but I had insulation directly behind the sheetrock I was working with. NEVER use zip toggles with insulation abutted drywall unless you hate yourself.
I love the toggler alligator
Thank you 😩!
Quick fix for pulled out anchors. Remove the screw from the anchor, blow out any loose plaster from the hole and the anchor. Squeeze a lot of Goop glue into he hole, making sure all side of the hole has a heavy coating and then coat the anchor with it. Put the anchor back into the hole allow a couple hours to dry and put the screw back in. The Goop will run down the back side of the wall and provide some extra strength.
Great tip!!
Thank you sir.
What do I do if I meet resistance when putting the anchor? I live in a really old home and my anchors won’t go flush with the wall.
You're lucky as it sounds like you're hitting solid wall which is of course more secure than these.
If I'm using drywall anchors for anything around the house outside of a picture hanging on the wall I use the ones that self tap AND have the toggle built in. They are by far the best drywall anchors on earth.
I flip over the anchor and scribe an x-acto knife around perimeter through paper, this prevents the anchor from tearing up drywall paper as it is going in. Looks a little cleaner.
I was on a project where we were using thousands of those Anchors in 50 year old 1/2 inch sheet rock that should have been replaced. we found dipping them in some sheetrock compound before installing is helpful. But you truly need decent sheet rock of the proper thickness to get them to work right.
Have you tried bullfix ?
What options are there if we need to screw into a non-hollow wall if there is no stud in the area?
These drywall screws give me nightmares.
Where can I find toggle bolts like you show in stainless steel for use outside?
Thank you.
I screw the screw in first as a pilot hole, always use an impact, and never have a problem. No way I am driving 50 or more of these in daily by hand. This guy must do this as a hobby.
Here in the UK walls are nearly always made from solid brick. Cheap dry walls ( plasterboard ) are usually only found in offices, shops etc.
You need to visit a few new-build homes, they don't even use bricks unless they have too.
Most new builds are plasterboard.
One of the things You did not mention, is those Metal ones are usually meant to be put in wherever you have a Stud in the wall, Thought I would rather just use a longer screw if I searched for a Stud and needed a screw at that spot.
I like Wall Dogs.
I need to hang an acrylic display case with mirror back to display some nice models. It will be 50/60 LBS inside the case plus the weight of the case. What’s the best method to ensure it never comes crashing down? The mounting holes in the case are pre drilled and I can’t center on studs so it has to go into the drywall
Check out an anchor called the Qualihome Toggle anchor.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter
Thanks sir. I didn’t expect such a fast response.
@@wmg33 😂just scrolling the phone before football Sunday fires up🍻
I ha two anchors holding a small towel rack that got pulled out. Making big gaping holes close together. I think I have to cut the piece of drywall out
I can never find the correct screws , that's the biggest headache. thanks for a great video
👍👍👍Thank you.
I discovered with those is I can put them in - very gently - with my power drill, but stop when it's about 1mm (1/2 turn) from making contact. Then I'll insert the screw I intend to use and carefully ease it in. If the toggle doesn't rotate I'll bottom the screw to tighten it that last little bit and then back the screw out as far as I need to. The screw backs out with a lot less resistance than it went going in so usually doesn't try to back the toggle out as well (and a simple micro-flathead can 'pin' the toggle from rotating. It's annoying but it works).
Have you tried bullfix ?
Hot tip….never ever use a cordless drill as only requires a few turns with a screwdriver!
What I do is, before installing, hold the anchor with pliers and run its screw in all the way, this pre threads it allowing any screw to smoothly go into the anchor ( and be removed smoothly) then install. This prvents the drywall issues from ever happening.
I pop a hole in the drywall with a nail set and then use the clutch to limit the amount of pressure torque the drill can produce. I didn’t realize the plastic ones were better.
0:20 the first one (metal) is designed for use into drywall AND backed by metal or wood studs. The middle one is for drywall ONLY. And the one on the right is a lower weight rated piece for drywall.
Thanks!
The Fischer Duoblade drywall plugs are far, far, far superior to the metal and plastic versions IMHO, if you get these in the states. The grip is really impressive.
Looks like an interesting product, it would be interesting to see how much holding power they have.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter You get amazing grip when screwing them into the drywall, even if you over tighten which I did the first few times. When you screw your attachment on it feels so secure, but yes would be interesting to see the holding strength. (I don't work for Fischer! )😁
I grew up in Germany with using Fischer wall anchors in the 1970s and 1980s, now living in the US since 1995. Different walls in Germany than here, but "Fischer Dübel" were the standard. Just read that Artur Fischer only died in 2016 and had more patents than Thomas Alva Edison. Have never come across Fischer products here in the US stores that I frequent, found something online now and will check them out.en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Artur_Fischer
See? Like this, this is good!
Use toggles. If it's a hollow wall, you should use toggles for anything over about 2lbs.
Not because of the weight directly, but because the lightweight options rip up the wall with any real weight. Use the toggle and have a ton of holding capacity from day 1.
Monkey hooks are GREAT for light/medium weight items too.
Lighting fasttt
I hammer a Phillips screwdriver threw the drywall making a hole first and telling if there is a stud behind the anchor hole in the same step
There's hope!
That's one hell of a statistic. I believe it though. 🤣
First and foremost if you're going to use a drill drive it all the way to the lowest setting humanly possible drop the speed down as low as possible.
Preferably take your screwdriver bunch of small hole in the drywall then use your screw to screw the anchor into the drywall.
Try concrete anchor bolts after drilling with impact drill
I also put a dab of spackling paste on the anchor threads to mitigate any trauma to the drywall.
Have you tried bullfix ?
Question for anyone, would you trust wall anchors to hold rod for shower towels? I have a situation where neither side nicely mounts into a stud
If in doubt toggle bolts will hold. The screw in ones are what most installers will use because there a lot easier.
Are these the best anchor for drywall ? How much is the Wright capacity for each one?
Bullfix are the best in my opinion
Yes and don't use power drills for everything. In my work, I sometimes meet clients who are watching and then ask: "Why don't you use a power drill." - Thinking that it would be quicker save time and reduce my charge for labor. I have a collection of power drills and an impact driver, always carry them with me, but for certain things, I stick to using my trusted and efficient Channellock ratching hand-screw driver. Much more feeling in my hand to avoid over-tightening anything.
Off topic, I know, but this video is more recent and I don’t know how comments work on your end of the CZcams. I’m hanging a single, standard 30x30 kitchen cabinet in my dining area. I ran across a curious thing and hoped you’d see this to give me an opinion. The studs are 16” on center. Exterior wall. No **visible** outlets or plumbing. One of the two studs I’d planned to attach the cabinet to suddenly disappears at about the 82” point. As you travel up the wall, my stud finder finds and finds and then suddenly nothing. One stud is there all the way up and one seems to just discontinue. What do you suppose is happening there? I needed that area to attach the cabinet unless I can get away with leaving a few screws off the 6” of missing stud on one side of the cabinet. Any ideas would be great. Thanks and great channel. I’ve already picked up a bunch from your tips. The caulking video was insanely helpful.
I wonder if it’s a 2x12 header. Try run the stud finder vertical starting below the 82”.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter thank you! That must be it because there is something running horizontally along the area that the stud finder picked up. It’s weird because it is not exactly next to the window. Also thanks for the reply! Cheers.
Oh. I have been drilling a hole, hammering the anchor into the wall, then screwing in the screw.
A+
I Use the Fischer GK wall anchors. German Engineering , better than the cheap ones from you know where. Each pack comes with a setting tool.
Have you tried bullfix ?
The better they hold, the more damage they do when they fail.
Screws with a square bit?