Audi A4 Wheel bearing Replacement (B8, B8.5)
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- čas přidán 5. 01. 2024
- I'm walking through changing my wheel bearing in my 2015 Audi A4 2.0T. I go step by step on how I'm changing out the wheel bearing on this car. If you try this project yourself, there are specialized tools that you wouldn't find in your standard tool set. Look below for links which are the tools needed.
This wheel bearing install is the same for many of Audi's cars, Q5, A4, A5, S4, S5 etc. It is also the same for a B8 / B8.5 and other Audis. I walk through step by how I replaced our wheel bearing while using typical tools. If you don't want to buy a slide hammer, you can always rent one from Autozone or Advanced Auto Parts.
T12 Triple Square (Bearing Bolts): amzn.to/47SXyCo
19mm Allen (Axle Bolt): amzn.to/3RxHCj2
1/2 Breaker Bar (All the bolts): amzn.to/47K051x
Torque Wrench 1/2": amzn.to/3RzgfoA
Torque Wrench 3/8": amzn.to/3Rxm4TF
Magnetic Viewing Film: amzn.to/3Ndl4kT
Slide Hammer: amzn.to/41NCRFA
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All videos are for entertainment purposes only. Attempt these projects at your own risk! If you do, make sure you follow all manufacturers instructions! - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Awesome video brother. Happy New Year. Thanks for sharing. Keep the content coming. Hope you have an incredible weekend. Much love and RESPECT
Happy new year! Thanks Tim!
Great video! Great job!👍
Thanks Mitch!
Great job bro! That is definitely one of the downsides to living in areas that snow. We don’t see much of that here in SF Bay Area. Cheers! 👍🏻
Very true. Even a small job turns into a big job with corrosion.
If the bolts at the rear of the bearing loosen take them out half way and use a air chisel to hit them that is a good way to remove a stubborn bearing without damaging anything.
I did try that with my air chisel. New England corrosion has me beat
Pro-tip, use the pipe from your floor jack as an extension to your breaker bar to tighten down the axle nut the last 180°. You'd be surprised how much it turns and how easy. Makes you also realize that it can be under torqued. I've removed axle nuts by hand cause the person did not torque them down correctly.
Good tip!
Next time leave the hub on - if you're not reusing it and/or it's damaged - and tap each side to walk it out of the spindle. You can away with very lightly tapping the hub, but you have to be extremely careful not to damage the hub as it is the weak point in the suspension and is the cause of mystery vibrations due to run-out/bent hub. IF you cannot get it out with the hub intact get the bearing housing cracked off enough like in the video and use what's called a "demolition driver"....basically a screwdriver that you can bang with hammer or baby sledge. Milwaukee tools sells a good one that you can use to wedge in the little space and increase the gap more and more by chiseling it through the little space that you made with a slide hammer etc. I've done these with a slide hammer only to have them stop midway and the 5 pound slide hammer do nothing for the rest of the way.....
Thanks for sharing these tips. I'm going to pick up a demolition driver. Sounds like a tool that I should have in my toolbox.
I just did mine last night, the same bolt on the same location had to be cut off
Yea. That bolt gets pretty corroded in. You know it’s bad when they make a special fixture to drill it out.
If i have an Audi a4 and hit a curb and when i drive i hear a kind of humming and rolling sound. Wouldn’t this be my wheel bearing ?
It could be. How hard did you hit it? More likely something got bent.
Can you do the rear please !
I will this spring. It’s definitely more work.
Is this basically the next thing to fix after replacing control arms from pot hole damage ?!
Yep. The bearings take a beating on these cars. Boston here is full of potholes.
@@SmackeysGarage Damnn ok yup :/ I’m in Seattle :////
@@macdaddy1234ism So you are living the same thing I am!
@@SmackeysGarage 2019! S4 Seattle
So far new rims and new tires
Control arms getting put on next Friday .. the problem is still there vibration while turning on the steering wheel and clinking sounds … no shaking steering wheel while going straight though …..
Ah that sucks. I'm assuming they will do an alignment when they get the car done. Ours has taken a beating over the years and has only needed wheel bearings so far. It'll need a full suspension at some point soon due to all the pot holes. Wish I got an S4 though. Must be a fun drive!
How much is the dealer going to cost me for front 2?
I’d expect $1,000 to $1,600 from a dealer.
I was just at dealer and they quoted $400 for parts $660 for labor, so both probably around $2k. Pretty crazy
Yep. That sounds about right.
@@Robbysan97 I was quoted 1300 for 1, lol. Did it myself, but the 8.5 has a nut on the top of the control arm that interferes with the 4th triple square if using a hex shaft imo. I had to buy a triple square with rounded(smaller) shaft for better clearance. I had already stripped it though and had to drill it out anyway. Mine was all rusted in place too, so the hammer pull and penetrating oil was needed. I bought the bearing and hub new from FCP.
Some of the worst bearings to do besides Subaru.
I agree with you there. I’ve done them in my older legacy as well when I had it.