Mike, an excellent production. I do want to see the sanding though. Although just enough to see your technique and special tools. And you did that very well when working the box interior. I feel the same about the turning itself. And also finishing. Show enough to demonstrate the function and move on. I think you have balanced all the steps very well. I don't think I would start with a Forstner bit that large. At least not initially. I would have started with a bit about half size. Then finish with the full size bit. Looking forward to part two. thank you for sharing. Have a great 2024 and stay safe.🙂🙂
Started doing the threaded boxes again with the Baxter jig. I need to find or develop an X/Y jig for cutting so I can get the recess and tenon spot on parallel. One can never have too many toys...
That was really excellent, Mike, with plenty of important fine detail. I suggest its worth pointing out that a 54mm Forstner bit benefits from a higher HP motor. Also , you seem to be using a small size of NRS here; notable to me as I am just making a couple, whilst I think most novices might posses just one. The details on sealing and sanding and equivalent grit given by a proprietary product were valuable. For my set of sanding sticks, rather than Velcro, I use plain backed papers fixed with UHU glue (balsa cement in our younger days).One can just add layers as they wear. Again, a few minutes delay needed. Thanks. Bernard.
Nicely done MIke. Made quite a few lidded boxes but it never hurts to have a masterclass refresher. Sponge on a stick was a great tip..and I have got a little sloppy in a few places so thanks for that. 1Q what was the drive center you were using? Catch you on Part 2
Excellent demonstration how to do a lidded box. Thank you.
Mike, an excellent production. I do want to see the sanding though. Although just enough to see your technique and special tools. And you did that very well when working the box interior. I feel the same about the turning itself. And also finishing. Show enough to demonstrate the function and move on. I think you have balanced all the steps very well. I don't think I would start with a Forstner bit that large. At least not initially. I would have started with a bit about half size. Then finish with the full size bit. Looking forward to part two. thank you for sharing. Have a great 2024 and stay safe.🙂🙂
Thanks Glen .... you're right re the forstner bit ... I normally start with a smaller one ... must be my age! 😉
Nice start Mike, promises to be a lovely looking box. Well explained with no important details skipped. Geoff
Thanks Geoff much appreciated.
Thanks Mike, looking forward to watching part 2. Take care and stay healthy and safe.
Thanks Earl much appreciated.
Your attention for details deserves following up. This will be a nice box. 😎
Thank you Emgi.
Well done Mike. Always good to see you and your videos posted.
Thanks Doug.
Nice one Mike I always enjoy watching 👀 your videos. 😊😊
Thank you Les much appreciated.
Started doing the threaded boxes again with the Baxter jig. I need to find or develop an X/Y jig for cutting so I can get the recess and tenon spot on parallel. One can never have too many toys...
You're so right Reed 😁
Great job there Mike I look forwards to the next one.
Thanks Alan.
Nice one Mike. Thanks as always for sharing your skills.
Thanks Andy and thank you for watching.
Mike, thank you for another excellent video
You're very welcome and thanks for watching.
Well done 😃😃
Thank you Masi.
Good tutorial. I've become more a fan of having the tenon on the lid as well. Just getting caught up. Now off to see Part 2
Thank you Mark, hope you enjoy part two, and thanks for watching.
Really good Video well explained look forward to the next installment
Thanks Colin.
That was really excellent, Mike, with plenty of important fine detail. I suggest its worth pointing out that a 54mm Forstner bit benefits from a higher HP motor. Also , you seem to be using a small size of NRS here; notable to me as I am just making a couple, whilst I think most novices might posses just one. The details on sealing and sanding and equivalent grit given by a proprietary product were valuable. For my set of sanding sticks, rather than Velcro, I use plain backed papers fixed with UHU glue (balsa cement in our younger days).One can just add layers as they wear. Again, a few minutes delay needed. Thanks. Bernard.
Thanks Bernard also thanks for an insight your methods too. Take care. Mike
Thanks 👍
You're welcome Colin and thanks for watching.
Thank you, Mike!
No no ... thank you for watching Lewis.
I really enjoy your videos!@@MikeWaldt
Good demonstration Mike👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍😎😎😎😎😎😎
Thanks Alan.
Dear Mr Waldt, would you like me to send you a house brick, you could use it to sharpen your forstner bit 😂 Great project well explained as usual.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 ... and .... thanks Pete.
At the beginning of the video you have something in your chuck while you true up the ends, what is that?
Hi Kurt it's the new set of drive centres from Simon Hope.
Hi Mike, nice box/video and explanation. What centres were you using at the start please?
Thanks Barney ... they're the new Drive Centre set from Simon Hope 🙂
Nicely done MIke. Made quite a few lidded boxes but it never hurts to have a masterclass refresher. Sponge on a stick was a great tip..and I have got a little sloppy in a few places so thanks for that. 1Q what was the drive center you were using? Catch you on Part 2
Thanks Brian much appreciated. It's part of the set of drive centres from Simon Hope I did a video on them a few months back mate 🙂
But you didn't show doing the lid.