How To Solder Patch Cables
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- čas přidán 21. 03. 2018
- In this video I share how I make high quality patch cables for pedal boards. I also demonstrate the RIGHT WAY to solder guitar cables, so that you don't end up with tone loss or signal cutting out. I hope you enjoy it and find it helpful!
I'm using Lava Cable Mini ELC cable and SquarePlug SP500 plug in this tutorial.
✧Soldering Equipment (Amazon Affiliate Links)✧
Weller WLC100 Soldering Station - amzn.to/2VVfLPr
Kester Solder - amzn.to/3iUCa8B
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission (at no cost to YOU). This helps support the channel and allows me to continue to make videos like this. Thank you for the support!
You gave me the power of creation. The world will never be the same.
😂🤘
This might be the best soldering video on CZcams
Man, i've been soldering a lot of pickups and pots on my guitar, and it's a pain in the back. This video helped me a lot. Specially now that i'm planning to solder my own patch cables. Thanks!
Dude, I'm so glad it helped you! Thanks for commenting!
@@joshuaaldy No worries, dude. Glad i found this very helpful video. I can save up to 100 bucks instead of buying on my local store for a 4" cable. Fun and experience not included
I just realized how terrible my soldering jobs are . Thanks for showing me the basics now I can get rid of that stinking hum
@jay For sure man! You can do it. I'd say tinning individual parts and having a way to make sure the joints don't move as the solder cools make the biggest difference.
after Dan from that pedal show suggested this video your numbers will rise😀, great video!
What!?? Really, what video did he mention it in?
Oh, I see the one. He linked to me in his description. So kind of him!
Im doing these on my broken patch cables and extra broken cables, good thing I haven't throw those out yet. Thanks for this video!
FuzzyFuzz You’re welcome man. Glad your getting to recycle your old gear!
Such a helpful video! Thank you so much man!
My pleasure dude.
I might've put the grounding wire under that lug to keep them apart, but this is good stuff. Thanks.
Fantastic tutorial. I'll be building cables next week for my new Saturnworks 3-looper. This and your other video about the straight plugs showed exactly what I need to know. Thank you!
Thanks! Hope it all goes well!
For only having 3 videos your videos are pretty well done lmao
Apocalyptic Concepts haha thanks! If I had more time there’s a lot more I’d like to teach, like how to setup guitars, how to create patches on a Juno 60, and others.
Just what I was looking for. Great How-to video. Cheers!
Awesome!! Happy cable making!
Wow, this was awesome! Thanks! Could you do one on how to solder TRS? And maybe TRS to dual SP400 TS?
Hi Jeremia, I don't have those supplies at the moment so I can't. But I can tell you how to do it pretty simply and I'm sure you would be able to accomplish the task.
Basically to solder TRS, meaning Tip + Ring + Sleeve, simply mean you have 2 hot(active signals) and 1 ground. The ground is always the sleeve. So when you look on the inside of a TRS plug, instead of seeing 2 tabs(tip and sleeve), you'd see 3 tabs(tip, ring, sleeve). If you're not sure which is which, simply use a digital multimeter to test for continuity and find which tab connect to each part. Then you'd also have to buy special cable that has 3 or more conductors. Like an XLR cable has multiple. Then you would solder it up in the same way you do a TS cable. Hopefully that makes sense.
Also if you're not sure how to use a digital multimeter(DMM). Here is a video I made on using them for building and test cables. czcams.com/video/K-EUpCg2ztY/video.html
this was very helpful thanks for this. I was trying to get the wires into the little eyelets on the tabs, unnecessary!
Glad to help John!
Any advantage to using shrink tubing as additional strain relief / insulation?
Thank you for that instructive video appreciate. Any solder reference you would recommend and use in this video please? Thanks!
thefreak6767 yeah! I would recommend heading over to redco.com that’s the website I buy most of my supplies at. It’s also were I got the SP500 plugs I used.
@@joshuaaldy Thanks! Im in France, so I look at easier option ;-) Looks like its the one you use in the video, correct?: www.redco.com/Kester-83-4000-0000.html
How is the solder iron your using ? I just purchased a ten dollar one and it can only ten the tip of the iron I’m thinking of using your link for that 40 dollar one
thinking about making my own cable. got tired of always having cables that are a little too long or too short. so you don't run the cable through either of the circles on the lugs for the tip or sleeve, right? just a connection via the tinning on those lugs?
That's correct. You can if you want to but it's not necessary. :)
When you were Pre-soldering the input jack, would you have to be careful and make sure the pre-solder doesn't fall on the input jack? or would it not make a difference?
Phillip Rubalcava Hey Phillip, so I’m not exactly sure if I understand. But it sounds like your asking is it bad for solder that is on the lug(solder tab) to touch the actual circular piece of metal that plugs into the pedal. The answer to that question is no it does not make a difference. What you don’t want is solder spilling over from the hot(signal carrying) lug to the outer shell which is the enclosure. That would essentially short out the signal.
I’m having trouble with some of my patch cables that I’m soldering. Most of my cables are experiencing signal loss. They are also negatively affecting how my compressor pedal works (drops the volume of the pedal when engaged). Also some of the cables will cut out if I move their cable around.
Any tips on what I did wrong? It’s also worth mentioning that I’m using unleaded solder for my connections.
Hey man, sorry to hear that. First question I have is what cable and plugs are you using? Second question I have would be how clean was your solder job? If you would like to send me a DM on insta you can. And I'll give you my email for you to send some photos of what it looks like, cause it's hard to say without seeing what you did. Definitely doesn't sound right. It should not cut in and out and it shouldn't have signal loss.
Joshua Aldy I used mogami 2319 cables and plugs from amazon and reverb, I’ll send you photos of examples of my connections. What’s your IG?
@@siavashmassoudi Awesome man! My IG is just joshuaaldy.
Siavash Massoudi Mogami has a black shield (conductive plastic for noise suppression) between the outer copper shield and the inner conductor’s insulation. The inner conductor’s insulation is not black, instead it’s clear if I remember correctly. So strip off that very thin black conductive layer before soldering. If you don’t, and solder or the inner conductor touches it, you will have that problem you described.
The Mogami site talks about this, and there are several videos that mention it if you search for “Mogami 2319”.
How did this soldering station hold up. Do you have any recommendations? Trying to but one but it seems regardless of where they are made every soldering station sub $400 has dodgy reviews at best and terrible qaulity control
Hey man, mine is still perfect! I've had zero issues. I use it probably 10-15 times a year and it's great. If you were going to use it fulltime like for a business maybe you'd need something more expensive but for a hobbyist it's perfect!
Are you supposed to pass the cable through the small holes in the lugs before soldering together? I see you did not do that in this video. Any benefit to either way?
Also, what is the name of the alligator clip cable holder you were using?
Jesse Galuk You can’t really flex the cable and bend it through the holes if you tin it. That is why I don’t put it in the holes. You’ll get a better connection for sure from tinning your parts than from passing it through the holes and not tinning. Hope that helps! The holder I’m using is called helping hands. I bought it off amazon.
If you want the cable to last, yes, pass it through and wrap back around itself before tinning anything, then tin both the pin and wire. The "Right way" to solder is not to use solder as a strain point, but to use it to enhance the connection.
Hi there Joshua, I just got a soldering kit and plugs and would like to try to make my own patch cables. I would like to purchase a meter and the stand with the clamps you are using. Can you give me the name of those items and if they are available on amazon. Also, I ordered some pancake plugs: GLS Audio right angle flat TS Mono SP106A (10 pack) and the few GLS right angle heavy duty SP102R-Z-4pack. I am giving this a try and am wondering what cables I have already that would work if I don't have Magami or Lava ones.
Hi Tilley, the clamps I'm using are called soldering helping hands. I'm sure it's on CZcams. Then the meter to test it is just any old regular Digital Multi Meter.
As far as what cable you can use. You need to look up what mm size fits inside the plugs you bought. should be like up to 4mm, or 5mm, or 6mm. Then you'd just have to measure what cables you have to see what works. Hope that helps man!
@@thejoshuabrothers Thank you it does! Happy Holidays!
Hi, Joshua! This is a really great video, but I'm having trouble with the section between 7:30 and 9:00. Yes, I agree that those ground contacts dissipate a lot of heat. And I'm trying to replicate what you're doing, but I can't get that contact to tin, even after using the utility knife as you did to pull it away from the outer housing. And it seems like the longer I try to get that contact to heat up, the more damage I seem to be doing to the paper shielding et al just heating up other components instead. When I apply the tinned wire to the contact, again, the same issue. I'm just getting a lot of damage to the paper and plastic shielding and I can't get the contact as hot as it seems it should be. When I do get a decent joint, it's still concave down, very round (not flat or smooth) and highly indicative of a cold solder joint. Ultimately, I'm having some of my cables fail after a couple of weeks. Do you have any advice here for getting that contact hotter without damaging other nearby components? What temperature are you putting your iron at? Are you using a conical tip or the flatter looking tip as shown in the link you provided? Thanks so much!
Hey Jimmy, first I'd want to ask you if your using the exact same SP500 plugs like I am using??? If you're using other parts then maybe that could be why your not getting it to work, or something else.
Also to answer your questions about my soldering station. I use the Weller one posted with a pointed tip. I have it set between 3-4 on the dial.
As long as the tab isn't touching/dissapating the heat through the housing, all I do is rub it in a circular motion for a couple seconds and put the solder on it.
@@joshuaaldy Hi Joshua! I am using the SP400, I believe. I can look later to make sure. But my understanding is that they are identical except for the opening where the cable enters the housing. The 500 is slightly larger of a hole for thicker cabling. But the rest is the same.
Hmm, pointed tip? So it isn't flattened in any way?
The maximum temperature for a Weller WLC100 is 900 F. I'm seeing from some chat boards that 4 is essentially 700 F. My iron tip is not quite as sharp as yours, so it should have even more surface area. I'm at 644 F.
nope. It's pointed like a tooth pick at the end.
hey what soldering iron do you use!!!???
If you check out the video description I just included a link where you can find the exact iron and solder I'm using. Happy soldering!!
Will a Mogami 2319 fit these plugs ?
Hey man, so the SP500 plugs work best with cables that have a diameter of 5mm or just under 5mm. Thus the 500 in the name of the plug. I'm pretty sure I looked up the Mogami 2319 on Redco.com and the outer diameter is 5mm so you should be good. Might want to double check though. :) Also in the same manner, the SP400 plugs will fit a cable with a diameter of 4mm. Hope that helps you!
@@joshuaaldy that makes a lot of sense now. Thanks for the tutorial btw !
@@MiguelGebremedhin Sure thing!
Yes, 2319 is for the SP500 and SP5. I use it all the time…
Best! ✌🏼
Whats the cable cutter you have?
Hey Diego! I have this pair right here. www.walmart.com/ip/Klein-Tools-11055-Wire-Stripper-and-Cutter-Double-Dipped/16607358
Aren't you suppose to remove the black conductive insulator?
Maybe... I think I normally do peel the black back a little more. But I don't think the black insulator you mentioned is conductive in anyway.. It's just an extra insulator to my knowledge.
Yes! Otherwise you stand to short out your cables and even worse your pedal, or pedals!
This entire video is wrong and inexperienced practice’s.
Conductive insulator is an oxymoron. Lol
What iron are you using?
Hey I've updated the video description so you can find the link to the iron and it's specs! Hope that helps you!
Do you make cables ? I d be willing to Purchase some from you, if you can use Mogami Cable. I only use Mogami. Im putting together a New Waggi Board in a Month. (Phenomenal New Pedalboard Company) & I am located in NYC. Let me know what you would Charge $$$ - as it seems like you are very knowledgeable about the Soldering portion ( which is crucial ). Thanks ( in advance ) - Michael - NYC -
Michael Caz Hi Michael, I’ve only made them for local friends and never done any online orders. But this company Covenant Cables does. I have a friend who works there and from what I hear they make excellent quality cables and they use Mogami cable. Here is a link and I hope this helps you. Congrats on the new board!!
www.covenantcables.com/store/p396/Mogami_W2314_%7C_SP400.html
What is wattage is the iron?
Hey I've updated the video description so you can find the link to the iron and it's specs! Hope that helps you!
I’ve been doing this for years, and you forgot to remove the other black material that surrounds the inside cable, as that black material is conductive, and will short your cables out very very quickly if it touches the inside cable!
Be careful folks, as that step is crucial in making a solid cable that lasts and lasts and doesn’t short out your cable,or pedals!
I wouldn’t trust this method at all…
Best! ✌🏼
Really?!?!? Can someone confirm, that would change the world for me😅
I just tested it and it is indeed conductive. That is why I spent whole yesterday soldering and having just one cable done working. Wow. Mind blown.
Just curious why you cut half of the outer bronze loose wire when you seperate it into two halves? If you were to take all of it and roll it into one piece, what would be not ideal about that?
It was too bulky. You have to solder it to the tiny tab and since the plug themselves are very small it made since to do half because of the space inside the plug. Since the copper shield is braided, as long as you twist it and tin the part your going to solder to ground it won’t make a difference. It looks cleaner too. IMO
Okay got it. I have the Mogami 2314 so the same would apply for that correct? Also what are some good ways to test the cables to make sure they are 100% solid with a multimeter? Any good videos for that?
Yes. I would just see if you need to divide the ground in half. The 2314 cable is smaller than the Lava Cable that I used. You would want to use the SP400 if your using 2314 and going after the same kinda plug . I'll upload a video to show you how to properly test patch cables with your multimeter. It's really simple!
Dude you rock! yea have the SP400 and the 2314 is pretty small so I had good success with the first 2 I made in terms of using the whole amount but I think I tinned too much on the side smaller part inside the SP400 so was having trouble tinning it to the smaller surface. Looking forward to the video!
Awesome! Glad they are working for you! If you were having a rough time tinning that smaller tab for the ground. I found prying it up off the enclosure with a knife really made tinning it a breeze. I think I mention it specifically in the video at about 7:30min in the video above. I'll let you know when I get that video done.