Thank you so much. Saved me a load of headache chasing looms and stuff to disable the immobiliser and/or costly work from a professional. My remote(s) had stopped functioning and the autowatch 674 ri would not go into key pairing mode despite my having the master code and being able to manually override the immobiliser doing the key turning dance. It was like the key pairing function just would not trigger the way it should have according to the manufacturer manual. It would be interesting to see what sort of current is getting pulled given the double-up on wires on the plug. A related thought is that tapping into these two pairs of terminals on the connector could easily be converted into other, separate physical, kill switches for the fuel pump and starter circuits, if as I assume the current draw is low you wouldn't even need to add extra relays. Probably some opportunity to tap into the rest of the loom to re-add remote central locking with a cheap module.
Nah, if somebody wanted to steal a car doing this and was familiar enough with the immobilizer to do this bypass they would already know a much easier way to disable the immobiliser on most installs. This tutorial is truly for educational purposes for people like me who are working on cars with faulty systems.
Did this on my Toyota Conquest, it worked.. saved me a whole lot of trouble. Thank you
Thank you so much. Saved me a load of headache chasing looms and stuff to disable the immobiliser and/or costly work from a professional.
My remote(s) had stopped functioning and the autowatch 674 ri would not go into key pairing mode despite my having the master code and being able to manually override the immobiliser doing the key turning dance. It was like the key pairing function just would not trigger the way it should have according to the manufacturer manual.
It would be interesting to see what sort of current is getting pulled given the double-up on wires on the plug. A related thought is that tapping into these two pairs of terminals on the connector could easily be converted into other, separate physical, kill switches for the fuel pump and starter circuits, if as I assume the current draw is low you wouldn't even need to add extra relays. Probably some opportunity to tap into the rest of the loom to re-add remote central locking with a cheap module.
you might have just gotten me out of a situation mate thank you ill let you know ...... fingers crossed
This did work on the 446rli. Thanks mate
Great news, to be honest most of the auto watch series are basically the same.
Mine has got 10 wires,so I made 3 jumpers ,fuel pump primes but the engine doesn't turn/crank at all...446 RLI AUTOWATCH, please help me.
Just tried this nothing… getting fuel starter working with a bridge no spark? Haven’t checked yet any pin out links?
This actually worked! Cheers man super easy!
No problem!
Whats the name of the 2 small linking cables?
@@Josphatkaragu they are just bits of wire with male spade connectors crimped on the end, that’s it.
What if u get a different plug where the 4 is next to each other
It should essentially be the same, linking the cables together.
What car is this ? 1995 ?
I can’t remember what the year was, I think it was a T plate, so bit later than 95, although it was an import from memory!
Whats the cause of all this
What’s the cause of what?. In this case it was the fob that stopped working.
Chrysler Pacifica 3.5
What about the class Pacifica 2004 3.5 L engine engine
Van is only swinging not starting
Swinging?
Yes but no spark
You mean cranking over?
Yes but I tested for spark something is cutting the spark
delete this
Because of what reason may I ask…
Nah, if somebody wanted to steal a car doing this and was familiar enough with the immobilizer to do this bypass they would already know a much easier way to disable the immobiliser on most installs.
This tutorial is truly for educational purposes for people like me who are working on cars with faulty systems.