Excellent job, After seeing your video I decided to perform the polishing for my Impala saving me soe big bucks. I have my own shop with all tool and materials and it worked out perfect. Thank you Sir very much
Thanks for this video. I just had frame and paint work done on a 25 yr old vehicle. There are stainless steel panels mounted as well. I noticed primer overspray on aluminum trim and tried some 600 paper I have. Wow, it left the aluminum cleaned up. Then I used it to clean up some old corrosion on the stainless and same result. So I was checking here to see what you really should do. Learned something. I will do more on the stainless after seeing your 3 videos.
Excellent video. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. It provided all the details, equipment, procedure, where to purchase, and most importanttly something that is so often overlooked Safety.
Great videos, I can see where I've been wasting a fair amount of time on some Sting Ray trim. Great tips on the different directions with the buffing wheels, too.
That's what it's all about how to, really well explained and shown, with tricks of the trades, I had a basic Idea how to do it, but now I added a few more steps to have great results, yes it's in my favorite, comes spring time...(one day,man) il attempt to refurbish my grill moulding on my 69' Sport Satellite
Very well done video's. They were all informative. I wish everyone was as clear as you are in explaining things. Thanks for the info. It will help me improve my work. I have lots of stainless on my 40 ford.
I used same buffer to do all trim on our 300 b chrysler,,,,took me some 6 weeks to complete. Came out perfect and now can do with confidence for future needs. Found working indoors was far too noisy, dirty and dangerous,,,a part taking flight for example. I had a 6 ft sq piece of cardboard from a packing box. Laid it my driveway and each day I would drag the buffer and set it on the cardboard. When done each day, the cardboard would be covered with debris from the polishes and the wheels. I would then take this cardboard, bend it a bit and dump this massive amount of stuff in the trash,,,ergo instant cleanup with perhaps a touch up from my battery powered portable leaf blower. Also setting the buffer on this cardboard eliminating the tendency for the buffer to jump and skate about on my paver driveway. Also had some wireless headphones that protected my hearing,,,,buffing can be extremely hard on your hearing,,,,and listen to the radio or music as I worked. All in all a very satisfying almost Zen like experience with the final outcome that turned out a better product than I could ever have wished to pay for.
Man, I am a little freaked out now thinking about some of the weird shapes stainless I'm going to have to hold up to that buffer it really is a massive "U" with each end about 3 or four feet long. I will definitely be practicing and getting as comfortable as possible with the straight pieces first.
Nice explanation for the pad uses and rouge. This should help allot of car guys get results.Plus I couldn't stress the safety enough, once that pad takes your work piece it usually to late to stop it.
Pulling or pushing actually does not matter. The speed of the wheel is so much higher than the speed of the rod so that the additional or subtracted speed of the rod is irrelevant. The satin finish from pulling is the extra compound that the wheel threw onto the rod. When you push into the wheel the final surface has no "extra" compound on it, because wheel is turning away from the rod.
Honestly have more questions now... what are the differences in fabrics for the buffing wheels? Flannel, cotton, wool, tightly wound...? Lots to figure out there. What are the differences in the compounds? How many are there? Which wheels can you use them on? I started a little stainless buffing in my garage for a sculpture I’m making and I get these dark streaks on the stainless after buffing some times. Also, I’ve heard the material won’t polish as nice with it being a higher temperature from the friction involved in buffing and polishing, is that true? I have a flannel wheel and a cloth wheel, what difference do they make? You mentioned rouge... what is that?
Great series of videos! I admit I suck at polishing there are some good tips here. A couple things all at, try using hard rubber blocks and be conscious of keeping the edges and contours sharp. Also the first rule of machine shop safety is no gloves and long sleeves on a polisher or grinder.
yeah,you Need Gloves!,steel trim on an airway buff grabs the wheel,and you have no gloves...you will possibly be looking around the machine for missing fingers..no joke
Cody. Love your video's. I have been working on my trim and doing the steps as you have taught. I actually have gone to 2000 grit on the D.A. and then to the wheels. I have tried several times and at the end can STILL see the orbital marks that create a haze to the finish. What am I doing wrong?
great videos >> very good info for cleaning up and buffing stainless steel , just wish i would have come across your videos before i installed the front and rear mouldings on my classic --- my mouldings aren't that bad, can i tape them up and buff them on the vehicle ?
Amazing work, very informative, can you let me know how to purchase the wheels and rouge bars from, I'm in Barbados and we don't have anything like these in the stores, everything specialised like this has to be imported in so what starts out being inexpensive generally ends up being very expensive, thank you in advance
As long as it's stainless steel it should polish up the same way. If possible, find a spare to practice on first. :) Stainless looks so good when polished out!
thanks for the tip on caswell plating!! can you polish industrial (mate finish) stainless steel to a mirror finish with the same method you mention on the vid? ps: is that an FJ40 on the back??
Nice video!, I am facing trouble polishing zinc die castings having pitting. They are unable to be noticed at the time of polishing but are quite prominent at the time of chrome plating. Have you tried copper buffing
nice videos i got a question how would u do it with a 8 ft piece of trim i mean u cant hold it right and not mess it up trying to buff how would u do it
Most YT videos show restoration and polishing with the trim removed. That's easy because you have full mobility of that item you wanna polish. How about NOT removing that part.....and doing it while that part is still attached to the vehicle? Now THAT'S something unique that requires very high skill level, much more patience and time.
I'm doing a 57 Chev sedan delivery...Have just bought a bench top grinder(3400)and buffer wheels an some compound(green)..love your vid ..it will be a big help..cutting ,polishing direction and go length ways..things that i would have had to learn the hard way..lol..thx you for your post!..the one thing that i wish was that I could make extensions..do they sell them or is it bought like that../ from the grinder to the wheel?..
hey dostum makina üstüne toza karşı karton koy tavsiyem birde kırmızı 10 kanat fırça işini kolaylaştırır not elini kolunu fazla yanaştırma makinaya kaparsa kötü olur yinede başarılar
What do you use to protect it and keep it from getting cloudy after polishing? I've gotten pretty good at getting the mirror finish, but it seems to lose it's shine very quickly and look worse than before polishing. Thanks.
@65SATisfaction You can expect a lot of fibers to become airborne while using the rake to clean the wheel. It can be pretty messy and I wouldn't suggest doing it indoors. Good luck with the '65 Satellite! :)
thanx!!!! gonna be polishing 80 brand new SS spokes for my cafe bike rebuild. Any tips for that? If not, I will incorporate your tips as well. Thanx again.
Hopefully somebody replies to this as I know it’s an old video. I just finished polishing the stainless steel T-top roof trim from my 77 corvette. This was my first time using the buffing wheel. It came out really nice but there as still some fine scratches throughout the part if you look at it under bright light. There are also a few spots that look cloudy. Now I only polished it with white diamond, then the green stainless polish and actually finished it off with red compound. Is there something I might have done wrong or will stainless always have some fine scratches in it from polishing?
The type of buffer wheel and the horsepower of the buffer motor plays a big part. I have found that you need a minimum of a 3/4hp motor to make stainless shine. Also, as Cody pointed out, make sure to start with sisel wheel to kind of, set the tone of the buffing.
Thanks for the video Cody, a great help. I've used my garage buffer and get results I'm real happy with. I want to move indoors for the winter. What are your thoughts on the level of dust or fibers from the wheels and process? I didn't see too much in my garage, but I kept the door open. Is this going to leave a layer of dust everywhere indoors? I'm 1/2 way done with a '65 Satellite. Thanks again!
thank you for the vidéo. But after sanding with 1500, is it necessary to use the sisal ? perhaps it's more "agressive" than the sanding. use directly the finishing one. no??? or perhaps it was to show us the different steps.
Sisal buffing with green compound will signifigantly reduse the chances of pinholes in the stainless,which pretty much force you to start over and grind them out stainless in touchy and doesn't like a big gap in operations,as in jumping from 120 to 300,you have to keep everything close to ensure a flawless finish
Bits of mops can fly off into your face so use a chainsaw style face protector. Secondly the abrasives are made from nasty stuff so wear a simple dust mask just incase. Thirdly polishing knifes on these is very dangerous, the mops can wear down on one side more than the other and can catch you out. Fourth point, you can get at least 2 grades of treated sisal mops that are harder than regular sisal mops. Fifth point, fine sandpaper used with non abrasive polishing cream that has long working time ( peek polish in the UK ) can be extremely effective used together and get a good finish with some patience.
I had a bayonet catch on a greaseless wheel and slam into the top of my foot in 1986....Friday november 13th,1986....for a friend,on my break,no comp,not much walking for months,yes,knives suck,as far as polishing goes
Omg I'm exhausted that's a lot of work. I spend less time wining and dining the wife to get some trim buffed out. That was a joke nice job well worth the time for original stainless. The new knock off China crap is really thin and dents just putting it on.
Top ten video. I kind of knew ho to do this but really clear explanations brought it all together and no timewasting chit chat. Very good, thanks.
OUTSTANDING!!! I'm restoring my 65 GTO and with your instructions i'll be saving a lot of money. Thanks very much.
We are sisal buff wheel ,cloth buff wheel manufacturer ,if need ,plesase contact my email :amy@cfabrasives.com
I'm just learning how to restore SS auto trim and this was a great introductory video set. Thanks!
Excellent job, After seeing your video I decided to perform the polishing for my Impala saving me soe big bucks. I have my own shop with all tool and materials and it worked out perfect.
Thank you Sir very much
Thanks for this video. I just had frame and paint work done on a 25 yr old vehicle. There are stainless steel panels mounted as well. I noticed primer overspray on aluminum trim and tried some 600 paper I have. Wow, it left the aluminum cleaned up. Then I used it to clean up some old corrosion on the stainless and same result. So I was checking here to see what you really should do. Learned something. I will do more on the stainless after seeing your 3 videos.
Excellent video. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. It provided all the details, equipment, procedure, where to purchase, and most importanttly something that is so often overlooked Safety.
A really informative video for the amateur restorer! Thank you very much.
cool video, ive got an interview for metal linesher/polisher and i'm a welder and did'nt know much about this process, helpful video, thanks :)
Thank you for the video. I picked up on a lot of tips! One thing I do use is a respirator while buffing because of the polishing dust.
We are sisal buff wheel ,cloth buff wheel manufacturer ,if need ,plesase contact my email :amy@cfabrasives.com
It literally came out looking like it was freshly chrome plated. Beautiful
Great series on polishing stainless your videos were very good information thank you Sir for doing it I'm working on my 69 charger
Great videos, I can see where I've been wasting a fair amount of time on some Sting Ray trim. Great tips on the different directions with the buffing wheels, too.
That's what it's all about how to, really well explained and shown, with tricks of the trades, I had a basic Idea how to do it, but now I added a few more steps to have great results, yes it's in my favorite, comes spring time...(one day,man) il attempt to refurbish my grill moulding on my 69' Sport Satellite
Very well done video's. They were all informative. I wish everyone was as clear as you are in explaining things. Thanks for the info. It will help me improve my work. I have lots of stainless on my 40 ford.
It looks great. I'm going to be trying this on my Camaro Thanks for the video. Awesome buffer.
Great video! Trademark secrets of a pro at its best. Thumbs up!
Great video, no BS intro stupid music or advertising. Just good info. Good job man.
Thanks a bunch. Can’t wait to use your approach on my ‘56 bel air trim
Awesome video. I learned a lot. Thanks for sharing your skills.
What a pro. That stuff came out so nice.
This is a GREAT video series. Thanls for the help!
Thanks, very informative and a help for me with my stainless moldings for my 70 Mach 1.
Great Video!
I used same buffer to do all trim on our 300 b chrysler,,,,took me some 6 weeks to complete. Came out perfect and now can do with confidence for future needs. Found working indoors was far too noisy, dirty and dangerous,,,a part taking flight for example.
I had a 6 ft sq piece of cardboard from a packing box. Laid it my driveway and each day I would drag the buffer and set it on the cardboard. When done each day, the cardboard would be covered with debris from the polishes and the wheels. I would then take this cardboard, bend it a bit and dump this massive amount of stuff in the trash,,,ergo instant cleanup with perhaps a touch up from my battery powered portable leaf blower.
Also setting the buffer on this cardboard eliminating the tendency for the buffer to jump and skate about on my paver driveway.
Also had some wireless headphones that protected my hearing,,,,buffing can be extremely hard on your hearing,,,,and listen to the radio or music as I worked.
All in all a very satisfying almost Zen like experience with the final outcome that turned out a better product than I could ever have wished to pay for.
Great, in depth lesson, thanks for your time.
Thanks for this vidoe series. Alot of good pointers there.
Great series of videos! Thank you so much!
that's going to look great on my 98 Lincoln Mark VIII I'm going to have painted, and restored with upgrades
A great job of organizing and delivering your verbal commentary. Better video resolution would help when showing the results.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video, very informative!
Man, I am a little freaked out now thinking about some of the weird shapes stainless I'm going to have to hold up to that buffer it really is a massive "U" with each end about 3 or four feet long. I will definitely be practicing and getting as comfortable as possible with the straight pieces first.
Nice explanation for the pad uses and rouge. This should help allot of car guys get results.Plus I couldn't stress the safety enough, once that pad takes your work piece it usually to late to stop it.
Well done series.
Great videos. Thanks
Thank you for sharing your professional knowledge sir
great video very good instructions!!!
Thanks good job I bet I will try my hand at it now.
Pulling or pushing actually does not matter. The speed of the wheel is so much higher than the speed of the rod so that the additional or subtracted speed of the rod is irrelevant. The satin finish from pulling is the extra compound that the wheel threw onto the rod. When you push into the wheel the final surface has no "extra" compound on it, because wheel is turning away from the rod.
Great videos. Hope you are going to make one of those polishing videos you talked about.
Honestly have more questions now... what are the differences in fabrics for the buffing wheels? Flannel, cotton, wool, tightly wound...? Lots to figure out there. What are the differences in the compounds? How many are there? Which wheels can you use them on? I started a little stainless buffing in my garage for a sculpture I’m making and I get these dark streaks on the stainless after buffing some times. Also, I’ve heard the material won’t polish as nice with it being a higher temperature from the friction involved in buffing and polishing, is that true? I have a flannel wheel and a cloth wheel, what difference do they make? You mentioned rouge... what is that?
Great video, very helpful,thank you!
Awesome fucken video... You rock man👌
Great series of videos! I admit I suck at polishing there are some good tips here. A couple things all at, try using hard rubber blocks and be conscious of keeping the edges and contours sharp. Also the first rule of machine shop safety is no gloves and long sleeves on a polisher or grinder.
yeah,you Need Gloves!,steel trim on an airway buff grabs the wheel,and you have no gloves...you will possibly be looking around the machine for missing fingers..no joke
great video. very helpful i might start my own business..
Eight years and counting, great video, thanks for the guidance. I would like to do a bicycle.
Very helpful. Thank you.
I want your coveralls! Carhartt? Also, why don’t buffers have a safety clutch?
I have the knowledge now, I have some work to do, all I need now is to buy some tools :)
Cody. Love your video's. I have been working on my trim and doing the steps as you have taught. I actually have gone to 2000 grit on the D.A. and then to the wheels. I have tried several times and at the end can STILL see the orbital marks that create a haze to the finish. What am I doing wrong?
Very Kool I'll give it a shot.Thank you, trim is too much cash
great videos >> very good info for cleaning up and buffing stainless steel , just wish i would have come across your videos before i installed the front and rear mouldings on my classic --- my mouldings aren't that bad, can i tape them up and buff them on the vehicle ?
Where did you buy your buffer and materials? Great demo
@SpikeTheSpiker Wish I could help, but I've not worked with brushed chrome. Sounds like a cool lighter though!
Inspiring!
Amazing work, very informative, can you let me know how to purchase the wheels and rouge bars from, I'm in Barbados and we don't have anything like these in the stores, everything specialised like this has to be imported in so what starts out being inexpensive generally ends up being very expensive, thank you in advance
I need that workshop 😍
Very nice
Thank you for your knowledge.!!
nice work..
excellent work
Great videos, very informative and straight to the point!
As long as it's stainless steel it should polish up the same way. If possible, find a spare to practice on first. :) Stainless looks so good when polished out!
I followed this exactly but i still end up with a very light haze that i just cant get rid off. Its super frustrating.
🤘🤘🤘
great video brother
thanks for the tip on caswell plating!!
can you polish industrial (mate finish) stainless steel to a mirror finish with the same method you mention on the vid?
ps: is that an FJ40 on the back??
Thanks now I can start my trim on my 260z
We are sisal buff wheel ,cloth buff wheel manufacturer ,if need ,plesase contact my email :amy@cfabrasives.com
Nice video!,
I am facing trouble polishing zinc die castings having pitting. They are unable to be noticed at the time of polishing but are quite prominent at the time of chrome plating. Have you tried copper buffing
nice videos i got a question how would u do it with a 8 ft piece of trim i mean u cant hold it right and not mess it up trying to buff how would u do it
Most YT videos show restoration and polishing with the trim removed.
That's easy because you have full mobility of that item you wanna polish.
How about NOT removing that part.....and doing it while that part is still attached to the vehicle?
Now THAT'S something unique that requires very high skill level, much more patience and time.
Where did you get the smal Anvil?
I'm doing a 57 Chev sedan delivery...Have just bought a bench top grinder(3400)and buffer wheels an some compound(green)..love your vid ..it will be a big help..cutting ,polishing direction and go length ways..things that i would have had to learn the hard way..lol..thx you for your post!..the one thing that i wish was that I could make extensions..do they sell them or is it bought like that../ from the grinder to the wheel?..
good stuff but it seems like some of the detail crease in the middle gets lost. I don't see that line as much as I did when you started in that area.
putting your compound on the floor will pick up grit and load it onto your wheel.....
A good trades man.
Thanks
hey dostum makina üstüne toza karşı karton koy tavsiyem birde kırmızı 10 kanat fırça işini kolaylaştırır not elini kolunu fazla yanaştırma makinaya kaparsa kötü olur yinede başarılar
Nice tip. Thanks for showing.
What do you use to protect it and keep it from getting cloudy after polishing? I've gotten pretty good at getting the mirror finish, but it seems to lose it's shine very quickly and look worse than before polishing. Thanks.
oil
Excellent
@65SATisfaction
You can expect a lot of fibers to become airborne while using the rake to clean the wheel. It can be pretty messy and I wouldn't suggest doing it indoors. Good luck with the '65 Satellite! :)
Have you done chrome wheel trim rings ? Not sure if the curb rash will heal out .
looks good
thanx!!!! gonna be polishing 80 brand new SS spokes for my cafe bike rebuild. Any tips for that? If not, I will incorporate your tips as well. Thanx again.
Hopefully somebody replies to this as I know it’s an old video. I just finished polishing the stainless steel T-top roof trim from my 77 corvette. This was my first time using the buffing wheel. It came out really nice but there as still some fine scratches throughout the part if you look at it under bright light. There are also a few spots that look cloudy. Now I only polished it with white diamond, then the green stainless polish and actually finished it off with red compound. Is there something I might have done wrong or will stainless always have some fine scratches in it from polishing?
The type of buffer wheel and the horsepower of the buffer motor plays a big part. I have found that you need a minimum of a 3/4hp motor to make stainless shine. Also, as Cody pointed out, make sure to start with sisel wheel to kind of, set the tone of the buffing.
nice buffing machine...!
Mate 40yrs in the metal polishing trade ,I have had a good laugh don't give up your day job .
Thanks for the video Cody, a great help. I've used my garage buffer and get results I'm real happy with. I want to move indoors for the winter. What are your thoughts on the level of dust or fibers from the wheels and process? I didn't see too much in my garage, but I kept the door open. Is this going to leave a layer of dust everywhere indoors? I'm 1/2 way done with a '65 Satellite. Thanks again!
H😊
what machine do you use
Thank you!
como faço prá adquirir essas escovas ou disco de polimento, to precisando polir as minhas Ferramentas
Hello, Need to know which machine is suitable for manufacturing indian stainless steel lota. Awaiting your revert
Nice video, the only way you could be any better is if your name was camaro cody lol
thank you for the vidéo. But after sanding with 1500, is it necessary to use the sisal ? perhaps it's more "agressive" than the sanding. use directly the finishing one. no??? or perhaps it was to show us the different steps.
Sisal buffing with green compound will signifigantly reduse the chances of pinholes in the stainless,which pretty much force you to start over and grind them out
stainless in touchy and doesn't like a big gap in operations,as in jumping from 120 to 300,you have to keep everything close to ensure a flawless finish
Bits of mops can fly off into your face so use a chainsaw style face protector. Secondly the abrasives are made from nasty stuff so wear a simple dust mask just incase. Thirdly polishing knifes on these is very dangerous, the mops can wear down on one side more than the other and can catch you out. Fourth point, you can get at least 2 grades of treated sisal mops that are harder than regular sisal mops. Fifth point, fine sandpaper used with non abrasive polishing cream that has long working time ( peek polish in the UK ) can be extremely effective used together and get a good finish with some patience.
I had a bayonet catch on a greaseless wheel and slam into the top of my foot in 1986....Friday november 13th,1986....for a friend,on my break,no comp,not much walking for months,yes,knives suck,as far as polishing goes
ZIppos are guaranteed for life. Email them and see if they'll fix the finish.
how mach rpm uare moter i am us 2800 rpm moter and stil pool whil and baff
Hi , just woundering what rpm you are running on your buffing mach:
Does titanium buff just as easy??
Omg I'm exhausted that's a lot of work. I spend less time wining and dining the wife to get some trim buffed out.
That was a joke nice job well worth the time for original stainless. The new knock off China crap is really thin and dents just putting it on.