You do it here in the video, but it's worth calling out: if you're going to paint red, orange, or yellow, do it over a light (or white) primer/basecoat. A dark base will subdue the color quite a bit.
Painting decal film and using it like a mask but as final, is genius. So glad I stumbled upon your channel, you have a very calm voice and efficient presentation, which I appreciate.
Holy crap! I'm blown away. You made painted decals for lining the canopy. Seriously?! This is the first time I've seen this done and it's genius! Thank you you sharing it with us. WOW!
Modelismo del de antes, de mi juventud, maqueta simple, técnicas fáciles pero efectivas, apto para todos los aficionados. Este video demuestra que no existen malas maquetas en las manos adecuadas.👍
Oldtimer here, just returned to the hobby after... 35 years. :) I realized I needed four big Spits in the ceiling and I want to build them "fair". You have some really nice tips and tricks (I especially liked the canopy strips). After watching many videos I can see that the hobby has changed a lot during my absence. The core is still to have fun, I totally agree. I just get jealous (therefore I call it cheating) of the airbrush! It´s not fair! :D I still paint with brushes (even the bigger parts), and thinning down the paint and paint two layers I have found to be a good thing. Not sure if you have mentioned in other videos, but I recently found out about using steel wool polishing for the later finish. I have seen other use wet sanding for the same effect. Anyways, just take a piece of steel wool and gently rub the model after the paint has dried. It looks great, rubs down the edges between brush painted camouflage and brings out the "metal feeling" of the plane. Thank you for uploading this - I got inspired, learned some new things and will likely today use some of what I have learned. Happy crafting!
Amazing! The difference between those two models is astounding indeed! btw you're really good with the airbrush, I noticed your fine control of it is quite excellent! Thanks for the video!
Canopy frames using decal sheet...Never seen that before...I learn something new all the time...I'm in the process of vacuum forming a canopy for a 1/32 Revell P38 which is a 70's kit and the canopy was pretty thick and unrealistic...I was still thinking about framing options...so I might employ this technique...Thank you
Thanks for another great video. Filling those join lines with the sprue goo in the previous video really pays dividends which makes the world of difference in the before/after shots. If the kit could talk, it would probably thank you for rebuilding it and not leaving it in its original state!
I hope not - the title is Building better models - there's no requirement of "You should build models like this" rather it's meant to be advice for those who already feel they want to try to improve.
Great videos. So much to note. Was really impressed how you rebuilt the cockpit, and redid the guns. Where did you get the bits for all that? These after sales kits? Modeling has changed sooooo much since I was a kid
I like the propeller spinners in the before more.. they look more covered on grime, flies, oil and dirt… but otherwise a great model and transformation. 👌
Great (set of) video (s) Alex and comparison with the original model :) You read my mind regarding using decals as masks. It occurred to me that the fragile decals could be avoided by scanning them, printing them out to size, and using the printouts as painting templates as they'd be more robust than the fragile original decals. In general if the shape is geometric would you favour using the decal actually as a decal, or as a paint mask? My thinking is you wouldn't have to prepare the surface, paint won't silver over time, and it will automatically look painted on because it is.
Absolutely you could, though any scanning/reprinting can also alter the size or introduce distortion...it shouldn't, but it does happen. Ultimately the choice of decal or mask depends on the individual, subject, complexity, project etc. Decals are an easy solution a lot of the time, but as you say, masking can be better
@@MannsModelMoments Perhaps using the printer's 'Print to File' option as that usually defaults to PDF would preserve the size, or the program's resize option 'print size'. The only drawback I can see with paint instead of a decal might be matching an odd colour.
Also list tools, items, and supplies used and links to buy them. When you talk about Pledge are you referencing the furniture polish of that name, or some other product? Also, kind of trivial, you call water slide transfers deck•als. I've always heard it pronounced de•cals. Took me a second to figure out what you were on about. Cheers.
@@B.Huntley_Sharpe I have an Amazon Store linked in the video which lists all the products I use - it's simply easier than trying to list everything in each video, though I do put products you can't get through there in the videos. The Pledge I use has unfortunately been discontinued, but I am searching for a suitable alternative at the moment. As for Deck-als vs Dee-cals, I did already address this in another comment, but both are valid pronunciations based on regionality (as Al-yoo-minium vs Ah-loom-inum!)
Love the video's and they are really useful to me as a newbie (after 40 years since making Airfix as a child). QQ what is the 'Pledge' you refer to anumber of times as a coating please?
@@MannsModelMoments awesome!, but I've seen it said somewhere that brushing metallic's can be difficult to impossible with a brush, is that true? My first kit in a decade is an F-86F
@@mtfgamma6257 Difficult, sure, but impossible? No. It takes longer, for sure, because you need many coats of thinned paint to achieve a really solid result, vs spraying. For your first kit in a decade, I'd just get a rattle can - something like Autotek Aluminium works well.
Cutting the mask on the steel ruler is probably not the greatest. In my experience, cutting on any hard surface makes the tape shift around and you're pretty much only cutting with the very tip of the blade that promptly gets ruined by hardened steel. Results on a proper cutting mat are cleaner and you'll still get most masking tape off there easily enough.
@@moebius11 You probably know this but for those that don't, "decal" is pronounced very differently in the US. I was also momentarily confused when he said that.
Can you link or write hear the pledge you are using in the UK please. I am struggling to make a choice on buying the right one as there are a few different choices in the current pledge range. Thanks. Great video btw!
please excuse the naivety but when you say 'Pledge' I'm a bit confused (Just rediscovered modelmaking after a 53 year break...retirement!) the only pledge I knew of was the furniture polish but I see your airbrush was full of this liquid 'pledge' what is it...Please?
@@MannsModelMoments See? This is why I'm glad my early builds NEVER got exposure online. lol There's always going to be one of THESE folks around puffing up their chest about how they can do everything better. You made it clear at several points that you could have gone further with it but opted against it. (Sidewall canopy detail, replacement canopy, replacement wheels, interior color/exterior color on the decal film, etc.) All in all I think this was a good demonstration. This was a limited run kit from the outset & as a general rule those are made to give you the basic parts to build what generally resembles what it says on the label. You accomplished that with it originally & then showed how you could do it better with solely improved basic modeling skills. (The Aries MG barrels aside.) It's natural that the degree of representation of a finished limited run model kit is going to be equal to the amount of skill, labor, detail & accessories you are willing to put into it. I was disheartened to learn that Future Floor Polish/Pledge was discontinued last year. The missus swears she just saw some at the Dollar General literally this morning & if so I'll stock a few bottles of Pledge just to have it on hand for the pre-decal gloss coat before final finishing. That said have you ever used the Microscale series of products to help with decals? You still need the application of a gloss coat but they do wonders for the process. Applying Liquid Decal Film & allowing it to dry prior to putting the decal in water ensures the decal will not fragment. Once it's on the model an application of Micro Sol to soften the decal allows you to move it into position & conform to complex contours. Then an application of Micro Set softens it even more so that you can easily evict any bubbles from under the applied decal & gives it a "painted on" appearance. Kristal Klear is another in their line I like but I didn't see much of a need for it on this attractive little kit. Do you normally leave your models in a glossy state when finished? As a tween/teen & even in my early 20s I always thought to give them a matte finish when everything was done. Now I'm more in the semi-gloss/satin camp for most WW2 birds unless the reference photos show a lot of glare or a distinctly polished finish. Still I'm sure there could be a huge difference between a factory fresh aircraft & one that's been out in the weather a few months or years too. A great contrast is the natural metal finish you see after the paint on Japanese aircraft peels away from the duraluminum & the beautiful shine of polished late war USAAF NMF aircraft.
Pet hair dryer is the best thing I've heard all day. Thank you 😂😂😂
Beautiful aircraft too !!!
You do it here in the video, but it's worth calling out: if you're going to paint red, orange, or yellow, do it over a light (or white) primer/basecoat. A dark base will subdue the color quite a bit.
Absolutely!
Painting decal film and using it like a mask but as final, is genius. So glad I stumbled upon your channel, you have a very calm voice and efficient presentation, which I appreciate.
Thanks and welcome
Holy crap! I'm blown away. You made painted decals for lining the canopy. Seriously?! This is the first time I've seen this done and it's genius! Thank you you sharing it with us. WOW!
Thanks - I can't claim credit for the idea, it goes back a fair few years!
vids like these convince you that you can get great results...
Modelismo del de antes, de mi juventud, maqueta simple, técnicas fáciles pero efectivas, apto para todos los aficionados. Este video demuestra que no existen malas maquetas en las manos adecuadas.👍
Very true!
Oldtimer here, just returned to the hobby after... 35 years. :) I realized I needed four big Spits in the ceiling and I want to build them "fair". You have some really nice tips and tricks (I especially liked the canopy strips).
After watching many videos I can see that the hobby has changed a lot during my absence. The core is still to have fun, I totally agree. I just get jealous (therefore I call it cheating) of the airbrush! It´s not fair! :D I still paint with brushes (even the bigger parts), and thinning down the paint and paint two layers I have found to be a good thing.
Not sure if you have mentioned in other videos, but I recently found out about using steel wool polishing for the later finish. I have seen other use wet sanding for the same effect. Anyways, just take a piece of steel wool and gently rub the model after the paint has dried. It looks great, rubs down the edges between brush painted camouflage and brings out the "metal feeling" of the plane.
Thank you for uploading this - I got inspired, learned some new things and will likely today use some of what I have learned. Happy crafting!
Dang that's good work. I would never be able to do this good
You sir have earned a subscriber , great video thanks 👍👌
Thank you!
Amazing! The difference between those two models is astounding indeed! btw you're really good with the airbrush, I noticed your fine control of it is quite excellent! Thanks for the video!
Thank you!
I learned a lot from both part1 and two! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Why have I not seen this decal paper as canopy paint before now? Brilliant for frames with all straight lines.
I'll cover this in my upcoming "Making your own decals" video too.
Canopy frames using decal sheet...Never seen that before...I learn something new all the time...I'm in the process of vacuum forming a canopy for a 1/32 Revell P38 which is a 70's kit and the canopy was pretty thick and unrealistic...I was still thinking about framing options...so I might employ this technique...Thank you
You're welcome!
Thanks for another great video. Filling those join lines with the sprue goo in the previous video really pays dividends which makes the world of difference in the before/after shots.
If the kit could talk, it would probably thank you for rebuilding it and not leaving it in its original state!
Thank You!
What type of pledge do you use. I have looked in loads is supermarkets and found nothing. Or are you using an old supply.
Great video and build
Glad you like it
So many great techniques. I learned a lot!
Glad it was helpful!
Wow. Well explained.
Glad it was helpful!
Brilliant and great tips/hints. Thanks!
Thank you!
Hah your part about making sure your kits are accurate to the period is enough to make any 14 year old terrified to even touch the box.
I hope not - the title is Building better models - there's no requirement of "You should build models like this" rather it's meant to be advice for those who already feel they want to try to improve.
Very imfomative, keep it up.
Thank you!
Nice save or the redo of this plane
Cheers!
Great work...excellent tutorial. Would you please identify the hand drill you use in the video....cost and where it can be procured?
I actually did a video exactly on this - check out the "Hobby Stuff" playlist....but you can find it through my Amazon webstore
Great videos. So much to note. Was really impressed how you rebuilt the cockpit, and redid the guns. Where did you get the bits for all that? These after sales kits? Modeling has changed sooooo much since I was a kid
Thanks - as I (hopefully) showed in the video, some were scratch-built, some were after-market :-)
I like the propeller spinners in the before more.. they look more covered on grime, flies, oil and dirt… but otherwise a great model and transformation. 👌
That's rather a trick of the photography, they're just badly painted which you can tell in person
Great (set of) video (s) Alex and comparison with the original model :) You read my mind regarding using decals as masks. It occurred to me that the fragile decals could be avoided by scanning them, printing them out to size, and using the printouts as painting templates as they'd be more robust than the fragile original decals. In general if the shape is geometric would you favour using the decal actually as a decal, or as a paint mask? My thinking is you wouldn't have to prepare the surface, paint won't silver over time, and it will automatically look painted on because it is.
Absolutely you could, though any scanning/reprinting can also alter the size or introduce distortion...it shouldn't, but it does happen. Ultimately the choice of decal or mask depends on the individual, subject, complexity, project etc. Decals are an easy solution a lot of the time, but as you say, masking can be better
@@MannsModelMoments Perhaps using the printer's 'Print to File' option as that usually defaults to PDF would preserve the size, or the program's resize option 'print size'. The only drawback I can see with paint instead of a decal might be matching an odd colour.
Would you be able to make a US based Amazon shop? I love your videos and would like to support you through your web store.
I'll definitely look into that - thanks for the suggestion!
Also list tools, items, and supplies used and links to buy them.
When you talk about Pledge are you referencing the furniture polish of that name, or some other product?
Also, kind of trivial, you call water slide transfers deck•als. I've always heard it pronounced de•cals. Took me a second to figure out what you were on about.
Cheers.
@@B.Huntley_Sharpe I have an Amazon Store linked in the video which lists all the products I use - it's simply easier than trying to list everything in each video, though I do put products you can't get through there in the videos. The Pledge I use has unfortunately been discontinued, but I am searching for a suitable alternative at the moment. As for Deck-als vs Dee-cals, I did already address this in another comment, but both are valid pronunciations based on regionality (as Al-yoo-minium vs Ah-loom-inum!)
Love the video's and they are really useful to me as a newbie (after 40 years since making Airfix as a child). QQ what is the 'Pledge' you refer to anumber of times as a coating please?
Thank you!
Your question is covered in this video...czcams.com/video/HFPvjfE1ZSM/video.html
what if you cant do airbrushing? can the same tips be applied to brush painting?
Absolutely! I only used the airbrush for speed on the main painting - elsewhere you'll have seen I used a brush for the majority of the techniques.
@@MannsModelMoments awesome!, but I've seen it said somewhere that brushing metallic's can be difficult to impossible with a brush, is that true? My first kit in a decade is an F-86F
@@mtfgamma6257 Difficult, sure, but impossible? No. It takes longer, for sure, because you need many coats of thinned paint to achieve a really solid result, vs spraying. For your first kit in a decade, I'd just get a rattle can - something like Autotek Aluminium works well.
👍
How did you remove the original decals?
They came off in the soaking process to remove the old paint
Cutting the mask on the steel ruler is probably not the greatest. In my experience, cutting on any hard surface makes the tape shift around and you're pretty much only cutting with the very tip of the blade that promptly gets ruined by hardened steel. Results on a proper cutting mat are cleaner and you'll still get most masking tape off there easily enough.
What is "decofilm", as referenced in the canopy part of your video? And where can I find it?
Unless you are derisive, he is referring to ‘decal’ film.
@@moebius11 You probably know this but for those that don't, "decal" is pronounced very differently in the US. I was also momentarily confused when he said that.
So does hot air actually helps acrylic paint dry faster?
Absolutely - I use a small pet hairdryer!
pledge?
What is "Pledge" you refer to. Is that similar to "Future"?
It is exactly that,it was rebranded several years ago but sadly discontinued this year
@@MannsModelMoments Good to know. I still have about 1 quart of Future left. Hopefully a good substitute will show up.
Can you link or write hear the pledge you are using in the UK please. I am struggling to make a choice on buying the right one as there are a few different choices in the current pledge range. Thanks. Great video btw!
Unfortunately now discontinued :-(
please excuse the naivety but when you say 'Pledge' I'm a bit confused (Just rediscovered modelmaking after a 53 year break...retirement!) the only pledge I knew of was the furniture polish but I see your airbrush was full of this liquid 'pledge' what is it...Please?
It still looks like a beginner to me
Did I claim otherwise??
@@MannsModelMoments See? This is why I'm glad my early builds NEVER got exposure online. lol There's always going to be one of THESE folks around puffing up their chest about how they can do everything better. You made it clear at several points that you could have gone further with it but opted against it. (Sidewall canopy detail, replacement canopy, replacement wheels, interior color/exterior color on the decal film, etc.)
All in all I think this was a good demonstration. This was a limited run kit from the outset & as a general rule those are made to give you the basic parts to build what generally resembles what it says on the label. You accomplished that with it originally & then showed how you could do it better with solely improved basic modeling skills. (The Aries MG barrels aside.) It's natural that the degree of representation of a finished limited run model kit is going to be equal to the amount of skill, labor, detail & accessories you are willing to put into it.
I was disheartened to learn that Future Floor Polish/Pledge was discontinued last year. The missus swears she just saw some at the Dollar General literally this morning & if so I'll stock a few bottles of Pledge just to have it on hand for the pre-decal gloss coat before final finishing.
That said have you ever used the Microscale series of products to help with decals? You still need the application of a gloss coat but they do wonders for the process. Applying Liquid Decal Film & allowing it to dry prior to putting the decal in water ensures the decal will not fragment. Once it's on the model an application of Micro Sol to soften the decal allows you to move it into position & conform to complex contours. Then an application of Micro Set softens it even more so that you can easily evict any bubbles from under the applied decal & gives it a "painted on" appearance.
Kristal Klear is another in their line I like but I didn't see much of a need for it on this attractive little kit.
Do you normally leave your models in a glossy state when finished? As a tween/teen & even in my early 20s I always thought to give them a matte finish when everything was done. Now I'm more in the semi-gloss/satin camp for most WW2 birds unless the reference photos show a lot of glare or a distinctly polished finish. Still I'm sure there could be a huge difference between a factory fresh aircraft & one that's been out in the weather a few months or years too.
A great contrast is the natural metal finish you see after the paint on Japanese aircraft peels away from the duraluminum & the beautiful shine of polished late war USAAF NMF aircraft.