Disassemble smart plug WiFi EU3 components and design (powered by tuya)
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- čas přidán 21. 02. 2020
- Disassemble WiFi smart plug EU3 to learn about main components
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In this video, I will try to disassemble the EU3 Wi-Fi smart plug to learn about the main component of that device, check the structure design, and check what component can be damaged and if it can be fixed.
Though the disassembling of that device won't be easy and indeed it will go wrong where I will be forced to break that smart device.
To buy this smart plug globally from Aliexpress:
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AUSnhB
Detailed video about WiFi smart plug EU3
• WiFi Smart Plug tuya E...
To learn more visit
www.doobara.com - Věda a technologie
Thanks for the video, was curious what's inside. Couldn't figure out how to disassemble... Not simple... But fun ))
Was laughing a little bit while watching your video because i got a problem with mine sometimes works sometimes dont and i wanted to see if there is something not making contact properly. I was trying to figure out how to open and it was hard so i started watching your video and i saw you struggle until you broke it.... and i was ohhh it’s hard!!! Lol. Thanks i will try to use a heatgun tomorrow to see if i can open with out breaking. I think the legs that go in the plug are somehow loose
Lol, I tried many to open it peacefully I even tried heatgun but it seems that plastic locks are
One piece. Let me know if anything works with you.
any luck?
Hi, thanks for that video! The only one that could show me, how the stuff is assembled!
I had to open one because the safety sliders (for kids' safety) were broken and I couldn't get any plug in any more.
I managed to open it without damage by squeezing it a bit from all sides in a vise and carefully sliding a very thin tool between the two halves to break the glue.
I bought this one and some more about a month ago from Ali from two different dealers. The two deliveries have slight different appearances in SmartLife and totally different firmware versions. The one from the second dealer I opened comes with a Beken BK7231TQN32 and lists
"newest version" V9.9.9 for both main and MCU module.
The first I ordered list V1.3.5 for the newest version for both main and MCU module. Seems that the first ones might be equipped with ESPs!
Perhaps this significant version info might help to identify those ESP equipped plugs for tasmotizing!?
Hi, glad could help.
Well, you cannot compare mcu, and products firmware because there is none standard one.
There is literally thousands of manufacturers that design and create same product Shape and load it with different, components, firmware, gui, and functions. So comparing different supllier firmware is unfruitful. Model number are better to be checked in case of comparing.
The easiest and cleanest way is to squeeze it in a vice....
Mine stopped working after a year, but it is a great device....it does not turn on anymore
Sorry for not understanding the language, but did you get to any conclusion on if this is safe to use or not? I’m quite sceptical if this supports the 16A without catching on fire etc.
It is not recommended to use the full capacity of current all the time, for one reason, and its not catching fire because the plastic material is fire resistant.
Using the full capacity of 16amp will make the lifecycle of the device relay shorter, and if it is overloaded the relay will simply breaks off and stops passing the current so nothing dangerous.
The recommendation is to use about 12~14 amps capacity.
The benefits of the max 16amp is that some machine needs 16amps when it start only, and than it will go down to 14 amps or less.
@@doobarasmart after seeing your video i have to say that this device should not be used at all!
I can see that the earthing conductor is connected with the same wire (and white glue at the screws) as i've seen it in the avatar 16A smart plug. The cable cross-section is there at around 0,3 mm². To be protective in an home-environment with 16A fuses it must have a minimum of 2,5mm², otherwise this cable will simply burn away. This is independed of the switched load.
For anyone in the future ... don't bother.
I opened mine with a heat gun, totally ruined the plastic, the heat needed to soften the glue, especially by the button, it so high it will bend the plastic when you try to pry the top off. You will not be able to put it back together.. Altso a waste of time because all new plugs are not ESP but Beken bk7231tqn32 (w2bs) ARM chip. Not compatible with tasmota.
the one in the video does have esp logo it seems, so no arm, but risc, right?
@@evlo8059 Yes, but they seem to have switched to non-esp-chips some time ago. You can probably desolder it and solder in an ESP-01, I have seen some people do that.
But if they used as much glue as they did on mine you won't be able to assemble it again, it will be destroyed in the process...
There is also OpenBeken but I haven't tried that.
I have the same one, anyone luck getting it converted with tuya-convert (I don't)? does it have an esp8266 chipset?
Actually i didn't try to convert it, just wanted to check the interior design setup, and the component parts,
A similar one. The esp8285
community.octoprint.org/t/make-your-own-sonoff-smart-plug/13230
I also struggled with opening this plug w/o harming the case. So I tried to dissolve the glue with pure acetone. This works nicely on e.g. notebook PSUs but here it just softens and dissolved the plastic. And it nearly "glued" the push button to the housing. Fortunately I got it loose again, so I did not waste my $4 :-) Needless to say, I did not succeed in opening :-/
It is very hard to open any of the commercial plugs without harming the cover 😔
If the device is active, what color on the LED indicator?
When it is connected there is no light flash, manually or from the application when you turn the device power on it will go blue and when turn it off no light at all.
I managed to open one of these without breaking it, but the pcb is completely stuck, can't get it out. Any idea how to remove it? Seems like yours just came out easily?
the first remove of the pcb wasn't easy, it is not attached with a screw or anything but the track on the edges of the board are so tight, so trying shaking it left and right and use "push" the plug heads (the 2 socket metal connectors) to gain more push power.
@@doobarasmart Thanks! I've basically tried standing on it, plug heads down, with no success. Even tried (carefully) with a hammer. Perhaps more violence needed then... Surprisingly well built thing. Mine is an IP44 variant with a rubber lid, otherwise it looks exactly the same.
@@fransakeson7617 yeah, it sucks to disassemble commercial units, mainly the are not built to be dissembled because fixing it costs more than buying a new one. try checking if there any silicon glue.
@@doobarasmart more violence did the trick. I broke off the plug heads at their weakest spot, about in the middle. I don't think there is any way to get these out without breaking something, they must have melted the plastic rings around the plugs together after assembly. I'll try to figure out some way to fix this...
Edit: Watched your video again, and our plug heads are not exactly the same. Mine were secured to the housing with an extra plastic ring, which made it impossible to get out without breaking.
Pieces are glued. Why you didn't try a heat gun? You should simply disassemble using a heat gun and melting the glues.
True, but I don't have a heat gun and it was the first time I dissembling this model. And I meant to do it on the spot with simple tools just for fun.
Mine wasn't glued. Just popped open. BUT, yes, don't bother, not tasmotable :/
And why not to just show right way and do Not waist people's time!???
T.b.h. I found the whole process rather interesting. I can really feel with him the trouble he went through :-)
💚😃🙏🙏
What for to sign Video name in English but narrator speaks in abracadabra????