I understood (or MISunderstood) the second question differently, in that assuming the connect was a valid 50A RV receptacle, is there any harm in (lithium) battery being on float at 100% for an entire season?
Same here! The question was if leaving the RV plugged in all the time during the off season , would it damage the batteries as they are simply under constant charge. I would say, the charger if smart enough “should” go into Float mode and basically not continue to charge the batteries. The 50A circuit is irrelevant Todd - keep up the great work!
Thanks Todd you are the reason I am currently yes a pun watching the home study course for the third time This is the best money I have spent for my TT. Each time I have watched the videos I have heard and learned something I missed the previous times. I have a EMS and have now invested in a multi meter. I have shore power question, do the outlet receptacle testers work? I have one for house hold 15a outlets and one for 30a shore power that I use to check the power pedestal before I even back into site.
Another great video. I’m so glad to have you to where I can view the videos. I have a general question maybe you can answer I have a 1986 how many rambler imperial 35 footer behind the driver seat there is a light switch three positions all the way down it’s marked shore power in the middle and all the way up are not marked at all I have tried and trying to find out what the other two positions do. If you could possibly help me I would sure appreciate it. Thank you in advance Todd
Our Class C has 1-water pump switch in the entry way and would like to add a switch in the bathroom, can I tap into the switch wiring at the water pump? Thank you and thank you for a great channel.
When I get the money and time together, I'm taking the course so when I buy an RV, I'll be able to fix things for myself as long as welding isn't required. If welding is required, I'm leaving that to the professionals.
I fix almost everything on my own. Its very basic work. Basic, plumbing, basic mechanics and a tad experience needed for electrical but not too advanced. CZcams has tons of vids too to help. Im not saying the course is bad, just not necessary unless you want to do it professionally imo
Hi Todd love your TTT lots of good information but I need to verify something with you. When I plug my rv into a 20 amp gfi the plug trips. I think it it’s because the neutral is bonded to ground in the rv. Can you verify that or am I off my rocker? Thanks Todd keep up the great job.
So without an ATS your neutral ground should NOT be bonded in the rv. It’s a sub panel. There is debate but I can tell you that any fluctuation of amperage between the hot and the ground up to around ~5ma will cause the gfi to trip. Air conditioners, refrigerators, microwaves all have capacitors that could fool the gfci. Some suggest the length of the cable. Greater than say 50’ could cause a voltage drop, while not significant enough for us to be concerned with the gfci sees it as a short.
Mine is kinda stupid, but can I leave my battery hooked up, but put a charger on it like a NOCO 2 amp trickle charger to top off the battery before a boondocking trip for a night? I wasn’t sure if I had to disconnect it first from the RV’s wiring.
Yes, you can connect that charger to the battery while it's still connected to the RV. But you probably don't need the trickle charger. Just plug in your RV so your 12 volt converter/charger can keep your battery charged. This is almost certainly better because your converter can charge the batteries at a much higher amperage than a little trickle charger can, if necessary.
Hi Todd , I did the same exact thing over the winter, ran my rv on shore power while batteries were in storage. But will it cook my solar controller? My controller now , with batteries installed now , brings volt to 15.0 after in inside with lights on , then when i shut everything off it flashes then after 10 seconds drops to 13.6 and levels out.. should I upgrade my controller?
Hi Mr. Todd, can I safely use my 50amp EMS with a 30amp plug adapter on it to plug into a 30amp campground pedestal to supply 30amp service to my C-class motorhome. What would the EMS read on line 1 and line 2 from a 30amp pedestal power supply? or would it use only one line to supply the 30amp power supply to my motorhome? Thank you Sir
30a only has one hot leg, this the 3 prongs. That would mean only part of the rig will work depending on what's connected to that bus bar in the breaker box. Don't see why a 50a EMS wouldn't work to still protect the one line unless if it senses missing one line and therefore doesn't let the power through. I'd check with the manufacturer of the EMS if me.
Typical RV 30A to 50A adapters connect the one hot line from the 30A receptacle to both L1 and L2 on the 50A side so the EMS will see the same voltage on both L1 and L2. My Progressive 50A EMS worked just fine with a 30A adapter, but I had to manage electrical loads to not overload the 30A outlet.
@@kevinmiller4651 All of the 30A to 50A adapters that I have used connect the one hot leg of the 30A receptacle to both L1 and L2 on the 50A side. Have you run into any that do not do this?
@@jeffh5254 Thank you for your reply. My C-class has a built in EMS also to manage power between the 2 AC's, the microwave, coffee maker etc.. so as not to throw breakers. I sold my 50A coach and still wanted to use my 50A EMS at the pedestal for 30A till I purchase a 30A EMS.
Question, I have a coleman rubicon 1400bd trailer , is it possible to charge my battery while hooked to shore power ? I have a converter but not an inverter and if so how ?
A 12 volt RV converter will also charge your batteries at up to the maximum amperage it's rated for, often somewhere around 30-40 amps. Inverters take power from your batteries and invert it to the AC power that regular wall outlets use.
@calledtojourney it's a coleman rubicon 1400bh trailer, basically a square drop trailer , has a 100 amp hour battery and converter but does not charge battery when hooked to shore power although it will charge when in tow from tow vehicle
@@Frenchy5117 The converter should charge the battery when you're connected to shore power. If you have a multimeter, measure the battery's voltage before and after you connect to shore power. If there's no difference, I suspect that your converter is not working.
@calledtojourney ill do that but when I picked up from Camping World they even said it wouldn't charge but I found that strange also , thank you for the reply and information
I'm not exactly a Master Electrician. I am a Master Technician. And being that. As an, Electronics Audio Guy. I did some really wacky, Electrical Wiring and Interfacing. Let me explain it blows all, Electricians, minds. And here's why. Almost 34 years ago. I designed and built. A very Unique. Audio & Video, Recording Facility. A rolling couple of, Control Rooms On Wheels. A big audio control room. And a smaller video control room. All inside a 25,000 pound, Diesel Box Truck. In so doing. There was a couple of things I wanted. I wanted, Isolated Power. And so to get that. I purchased a, Step-Up/Step-Down,, Power Isolation Transformer. A 75 kW, Jobby. And with that. I take a, single hot, 120. And another single hot, 120. No neutral. No ground. And I connect those 2 hots. Into the Primary of this transformer. I generally take, between, 2 phases of, 204, Three Phase. Or, 240 volt, split phase 120. And my Electrical is Wired like an, Audio Circuit. The secondary of the transformer has a center tap. And with that. I get 120 and 120. On one side. I run all of my Audio Equipment and Video Equipment. On the other side I have, Lights. And my HVAC forced air whisper quiet, heating and cooling. Takes 240 volts. Off the secondary of the transformer. So even my HVAC is power isolated. My truck has no commonality with ground with my electric. And I have an internal Square-D Breaker Box, internally. With everything on a series of breakers. I was very mindful about my, current and wattage needs. I even did the mathematics needed for the BTUs of necessary air conditioning. On a 93° day. It came out to 18,000 BTU. I purchased a 24,500 BTU unit. And that gave me some additional wiggle room on the BTUs. For hotter days. If necessary and I have, in the past. I can always get a, 240 Volt, feed. A couple of times. I could only get a 120 V, 60 amp, feed. And while that worked out. It also destroyed my power cable. My power cable was not rated for 60 amps. It was rated for 30. It melted.. 250 feet of rubber jacketed copper. Melted. That cost me a pretty penny. I'm glad I got to the gig. I nearly burned the crap out of my hands! I vowed never to do that again. They can give me the right power? I'll leave. Or get me a generator. I need, 208-240. The Power Isolation transformer also, has additional advantages. My Audio Gear, actually got quieter.. In essence. I'm running Balanced Power. Balanced at the input. Basically unbalanced at the output. For the 120 volt feeds. The air conditioner gets balanced power on the secondary. And since the transformer. Doesn't need to pass a frequency response higher than, 60 Hz. Nothing much higher than that. Gets through the transformer. So it's actually filtering out. Plenty of Radio Frequency Interference or RFI. And also cleaning up a lot of noisy trash. That makes it onto the, electrical lines. From others, air conditioning and refrigeration compressors starting up. Other RF interference getting into the electrical lines. So high in frequency. It doesn't make it through the transformer. I get cleaner more filtered power. Just by virtue of how the transformer functions. And so every time electrician has looked at my electrical wiring. They are completely and totally confused. You don't take any neutral? You don't take any ground? No and no. I ddon't need any of that. I just need 2 hot leads. 120 and 120. Or 104 and 104. Thanks to the tapping on the transformer. I could take 104 and 120.. And still end up with 240 on the secondary. Thanks to the input taps. It gives me a lot of versatility. But then also. In certain circumstances. Where I can't or don't want to use the transformer. I have a couple of adapter electrical cables. And I switch those. Now I can take, 208-240 Volts.. Direct coupled to the power mains. And I have to take a neutral at least. I don't take ground. The truck is on big rubber tires. The whole body is wood. It is not metal. It's 1 inch FRP on the outer box. And three-quarter inch, dense particle wood walls.. It's a box within the box. And it's split into 3 separate rooms. With a common lengthwise hallway on the passenger side inside. And solid core wooden doors. Between the 3 rooms.. Each room has extensive Audio and LCD/LED, displays on the walls. Wherever you look. Wherever you are. You are surrounded in sound in all three rooms. And after 33 and 1/3 years. I have officially shut down. Most of the gear has been sold off. The vehicle has been emptied. I'm now deciding. If I might possibly turn it into my Super Class-C Motorhome, now? Or whether I'll sell the vehicle and just purchase a newer old used motorhome for myself? Something extremely comfortable. For an old person like me. Going to be 69 in October. And I seem to be slowing down? I think age might have something to do with it? Or I'm just pooped out? I think I'm just pooped out. I had a good run. I made lots of recordings. Though? I have not yet archived. My hundreds of recordings.. Most are still on analog and digital tape. And I no longer really have the gear to play it back properly. I mean I do but I don't. Not the way I had wanted to do it initially. So that's the frustrating part. And there's just really too much to take with me in a motorhome. So I'm freaking right now. I can pack my truck full of stuff. Up to, 26,000 pounds. It's about half that right now. A motorhome won't sustain that much stuff. I'll break my suspension. So? I've got to make an executive decision before the end of June. And I'm cutting it close. It's just another day in paradise.. RemyRAD
I understood (or MISunderstood) the second question differently, in that assuming the connect was a valid 50A RV receptacle, is there any harm in (lithium) battery being on float at 100% for an entire season?
Same here! The question was if leaving the RV plugged in all the time during the off season , would it damage the batteries as they are simply under constant charge.
I would say, the charger if smart enough “should” go into Float mode and basically not continue to charge the batteries.
The 50A circuit is irrelevant
Todd - keep up the great work!
Great video! I can't count the number of people I recommend to this school. Absolute best decision I made for my FT RV life.
Great video, I wished the NRVTA had more online coarses.
Thanks again! And thank you for the home study course that I just finished and absolutly love every minutes!🥰👍🇨🇦
Wonderful!
Great Video as always Todd!!
Thanks for watching
Good one
Thanks Todd you are the reason I am currently yes a pun watching the home study course for the third time This is the best money I have spent for my TT. Each time I have watched the videos I have heard and learned something I missed the previous times. I have a EMS and have now invested in a multi meter.
I have shore power question, do the outlet receptacle testers work? I have one for house hold 15a outlets and one for 30a shore power that I use to check the power pedestal before I even back into site.
I love the videos. When my Lithium battery dies how do I recycle it?
Another great video. I’m so glad to have you to where I can view the videos. I have a general question maybe you can answer I have a 1986 how many rambler imperial 35 footer behind the driver seat there is a light switch three positions all the way down it’s marked shore power in the middle and all the way up are not marked at all I have tried and trying to find out what the other two positions do. If you could possibly help me I would sure appreciate it. Thank you in advance Todd
Our Class C has 1-water pump switch in the entry way and would like to add a switch in the bathroom, can I tap into the switch wiring at the water pump? Thank you and thank you for a great channel.
When I get the money and time together, I'm taking the course so when I buy an RV, I'll be able to fix things for myself as long as welding isn't required. If welding is required, I'm leaving that to the professionals.
I fix almost everything on my own. Its very basic work. Basic, plumbing, basic mechanics and a tad experience needed for electrical but not too advanced. CZcams has tons of vids too to help. Im not saying the course is bad, just not necessary unless you want to do it professionally imo
@@Corkyrooster At least the schedule of when I learn what skill would be consistent, unlike if I learned it here at home with my dad.
Great video. Todd is it safe to replace my cheap 110v 15amp outlets with residential 15amp outlets from my local hardware store?
Tod when is the national electrical code going to be enforced. In the Rv industry
Hi Todd love your TTT lots of good information but I need to verify something with you. When I plug my rv into a 20 amp gfi the plug trips. I think it it’s because the neutral is bonded to ground in the rv.
Can you verify that or am I off my rocker? Thanks Todd keep up the great job.
So without an ATS your neutral ground should NOT be bonded in the rv. It’s a sub panel.
There is debate but I can tell you that any fluctuation of amperage between the hot and the ground up to around ~5ma will cause the gfi to trip. Air conditioners, refrigerators, microwaves all have capacitors that could fool the gfci.
Some suggest the length of the cable. Greater than say 50’ could cause a voltage drop, while not significant enough for us to be concerned with the gfci sees it as a short.
Mine is kinda stupid, but can I leave my battery hooked up, but put a charger on it like a NOCO 2 amp trickle charger to top off the battery before a boondocking trip for a night? I wasn’t sure if I had to disconnect it first from the RV’s wiring.
Yes, you can connect that charger to the battery while it's still connected to the RV. But you probably don't need the trickle charger. Just plug in your RV so your 12 volt converter/charger can keep your battery charged. This is almost certainly better because your converter can charge the batteries at a much higher amperage than a little trickle charger can, if necessary.
Hi Todd , I did the same exact thing over the winter, ran my rv on shore power while batteries were in storage. But will it cook my solar controller? My controller now , with batteries installed now , brings volt to 15.0 after in inside with lights on , then when i shut everything off it flashes then after 10 seconds drops to 13.6 and levels out.. should I upgrade my controller?
It's fine. Let it be.
Hi Mr. Todd, can I safely use my 50amp EMS with a 30amp plug adapter on it to plug into a 30amp campground pedestal to supply 30amp service to my C-class motorhome. What would the EMS read on line 1 and line 2 from a 30amp pedestal power supply? or would it use only one line to supply the 30amp power supply to my motorhome? Thank you Sir
30a only has one hot leg, this the 3 prongs. That would mean only part of the rig will work depending on what's connected to that bus bar in the breaker box.
Don't see why a 50a EMS wouldn't work to still protect the one line unless if it senses missing one line and therefore doesn't let the power through. I'd check with the manufacturer of the EMS if me.
Typical RV 30A to 50A adapters connect the one hot line from the 30A receptacle to both L1 and L2 on the 50A side so the EMS will see the same voltage on both L1 and L2. My Progressive 50A EMS worked just fine with a 30A adapter, but I had to manage electrical loads to not overload the 30A outlet.
@@kevinmiller4651 All of the 30A to 50A adapters that I have used connect the one hot leg of the 30A receptacle to both L1 and L2 on the 50A side. Have you run into any that do not do this?
Gotcha! That'd make more sense! I assumed you just lost a leg and it didn't connect both in an attempt to keep someone from overloading the 30a😊
@@jeffh5254 Thank you for your reply. My C-class has a built in EMS also to manage power between the 2 AC's, the microwave, coffee maker etc.. so as not to throw breakers. I sold my 50A coach and still wanted to use my 50A EMS at the pedestal for 30A till I purchase a 30A EMS.
Question, I have a coleman rubicon 1400bd trailer , is it possible to charge my battery while hooked to shore power ? I have a converter but not an inverter and if so how ?
A 12 volt RV converter will also charge your batteries at up to the maximum amperage it's rated for, often somewhere around 30-40 amps. Inverters take power from your batteries and invert it to the AC power that regular wall outlets use.
@calledtojourney it's a coleman rubicon 1400bh trailer, basically a square drop trailer , has a 100 amp hour battery and converter but does not charge battery when hooked to shore power although it will charge when in tow from tow vehicle
@@Frenchy5117 The converter should charge the battery when you're connected to shore power. If you have a multimeter, measure the battery's voltage before and after you connect to shore power. If there's no difference, I suspect that your converter is not working.
@calledtojourney ill do that but when I picked up from Camping World they even said it wouldn't charge but I found that strange also , thank you for the reply and information
I'm not exactly a Master Electrician. I am a Master Technician. And being that. As an, Electronics Audio Guy. I did some really wacky, Electrical Wiring and Interfacing. Let me explain it blows all, Electricians, minds. And here's why.
Almost 34 years ago. I designed and built. A very Unique. Audio & Video, Recording Facility. A rolling couple of, Control Rooms On Wheels. A big audio control room. And a smaller video control room. All inside a 25,000 pound, Diesel Box Truck.
In so doing. There was a couple of things I wanted. I wanted, Isolated Power. And so to get that. I purchased a, Step-Up/Step-Down,, Power Isolation Transformer. A 75 kW, Jobby. And with that.
I take a, single hot, 120. And another single hot, 120. No neutral. No ground. And I connect those 2 hots. Into the Primary of this transformer. I generally take, between, 2 phases of, 204, Three Phase. Or, 240 volt, split phase 120. And my Electrical is Wired like an, Audio Circuit. The secondary of the transformer has a center tap. And with that. I get 120 and 120. On one side. I run all of my Audio Equipment and Video Equipment. On the other side I have, Lights. And my HVAC forced air whisper quiet, heating and cooling. Takes 240 volts. Off the secondary of the transformer. So even my HVAC is power isolated. My truck has no commonality with ground with my electric. And I have an internal Square-D Breaker Box, internally. With everything on a series of breakers. I was very mindful about my, current and wattage needs. I even did the mathematics needed for the BTUs of necessary air conditioning. On a 93° day. It came out to 18,000 BTU. I purchased a 24,500 BTU unit. And that gave me some additional wiggle room on the BTUs. For hotter days.
If necessary and I have, in the past. I can always get a, 240 Volt, feed. A couple of times. I could only get a 120 V, 60 amp, feed. And while that worked out. It also destroyed my power cable. My power cable was not rated for 60 amps. It was rated for 30. It melted.. 250 feet of rubber jacketed copper. Melted. That cost me a pretty penny. I'm glad I got to the gig. I nearly burned the crap out of my hands! I vowed never to do that again. They can give me the right power? I'll leave. Or get me a generator. I need, 208-240.
The Power Isolation transformer also, has additional advantages. My Audio Gear, actually got quieter.. In essence. I'm running Balanced Power. Balanced at the input. Basically unbalanced at the output. For the 120 volt feeds. The air conditioner gets balanced power on the secondary. And since the transformer. Doesn't need to pass a frequency response higher than, 60 Hz. Nothing much higher than that. Gets through the transformer. So it's actually filtering out. Plenty of Radio Frequency Interference or RFI. And also cleaning up a lot of noisy trash. That makes it onto the, electrical lines. From others, air conditioning and refrigeration compressors starting up. Other RF interference getting into the electrical lines. So high in frequency. It doesn't make it through the transformer. I get cleaner more filtered power. Just by virtue of how the transformer functions.
And so every time electrician has looked at my electrical wiring. They are completely and totally confused. You don't take any neutral? You don't take any ground? No and no. I ddon't need any of that. I just need 2 hot leads. 120 and 120. Or 104 and 104. Thanks to the tapping on the transformer. I could take 104 and 120.. And still end up with 240 on the secondary. Thanks to the input taps. It gives me a lot of versatility.
But then also. In certain circumstances. Where I can't or don't want to use the transformer. I have a couple of adapter electrical cables. And I switch those. Now I can take, 208-240 Volts.. Direct coupled to the power mains. And I have to take a neutral at least. I don't take ground. The truck is on big rubber tires. The whole body is wood. It is not metal. It's 1 inch FRP on the outer box. And three-quarter inch, dense particle wood walls.. It's a box within the box. And it's split into 3 separate rooms. With a common lengthwise hallway on the passenger side inside. And solid core wooden doors. Between the 3 rooms.. Each room has extensive Audio and LCD/LED, displays on the walls. Wherever you look. Wherever you are. You are surrounded in sound in all three rooms.
And after 33 and 1/3 years. I have officially shut down. Most of the gear has been sold off. The vehicle has been emptied. I'm now deciding. If I might possibly turn it into my Super Class-C Motorhome, now? Or whether I'll sell the vehicle and just purchase a newer old used motorhome for myself? Something extremely comfortable. For an old person like me. Going to be 69 in October. And I seem to be slowing down? I think age might have something to do with it? Or I'm just pooped out? I think I'm just pooped out. I had a good run. I made lots of recordings. Though? I have not yet archived. My hundreds of recordings.. Most are still on analog and digital tape. And I no longer really have the gear to play it back properly. I mean I do but I don't. Not the way I had wanted to do it initially. So that's the frustrating part. And there's just really too much to take with me in a motorhome. So I'm freaking right now. I can pack my truck full of stuff. Up to, 26,000 pounds. It's about half that right now. A motorhome won't sustain that much stuff. I'll break my suspension. So? I've got to make an executive decision before the end of June. And I'm cutting it close.
It's just another day in paradise..
RemyRAD