Honestly, what would we do without content providers like you? Absolutely miracle. Thank you very much for all your time and effort in putting this together. Please look into a buy-me-a-coffee or something like it for yourself.
I have mine wired the same way. The wired handheld remote only works correctly now if I have the power turned on to wireless receiver. If I turn power off to wireless receiver the wired handheld only powers the pump and won’t send power to open or close solenoid. I’m puzzled
@@JeffinTD yes that’s correct. If I unhook the 2 wires from the wireless remote receiver that go to the up and down solenoids the wired remote also works normally.
Thanks. The blue wire that came on the controller is an antenna and doesn’t get hooked to anything. The blue wire I soldered to the diodes goes to the small lug on the solenoid switch that runs the pump motor. Right at 8:24 you can see the blue wire.
I did this same wiring but when I press the button for up or down the solenoid clicks on and off in 1 second intervals causing the start wire to lose and gain power, any idea on what I should look at first?
Without being able to look at it, it is hard to say. Any circuit breaker in the system? Wires and diodes appropriate for the current? (I think I used 20 amp diodes).
@@JeffinTD I have 1 power wire connected to the hot side of the solenoid, 1 ground wire connected to the ground on the solenoid, 1 wire coming from the start post on the solenoid that has 2 15amp diodes connected, each diode has 2 wires on then ends of them 1 runs to the up solenoid and the other to the up wire on the box for the wireless remote, vice versa for the other diode. When I put my test light on the start post of the solenoid the light turns on and off you can also hear the solenoid kicking on and off as with the pump you can hear start and stop as the power starts and stops
@@JeffinTD I know that isn’t much to go off of and not being able to actually put hands on something or visually see is even harder but I’m at a loss unless the remote or receiver is bad causing it to not want to continually send or receive a signal
@@blond9217 Kind of hard to tell from the description what might be going on. Maybe unhook the leads going from the motor solenoid, the Up solenoid and the down solenoid, and test things with a test light. I’d also want to confirm it isn’t trying to energize the Up and Down solenoids at the same time.
I am having the same problem with mine right now. Were you able to find a solution? I found that I have constant 12.5 volts to the wire that goes to motor when its not connected. Once that wire is connected to the motor it starts surging the same way that you explained.
Hi Jeff , the toggle switch ? did you wire that in line with the red to the battery side of solenoid? If so then that line should have a in line fuse and a on/off toggle. would that be correct?
It’s been a while but I believe I have an inline fuse attached to the battery, to the switch, to the controller’s receiver. The receiver pulls a small amount of power even when not activated, so I didn’t want a battery drain.
Unfortunately I’d have to decline. There are commercially available remotes for dump trailers, and those companies have liability insurance…. Also even if I considered my time only worth minimum wage, a commercial unit would be a better deal for someone who doesn’t want to build their own. Thanks though.
Honestly, what would we do without content providers like you? Absolutely miracle. Thank you very much for all your time and effort in putting this together. Please look into a buy-me-a-coffee or something like it for yourself.
You have the best Video. I have wired up two boat lift pumps. Works great. Thank you.
Thanks! Glad it was helpful.
Best video on this so far
Dang, thanks! Quite the compliment for my crummy production, shaky hand held video.
I have mine wired the same way. The wired handheld remote only works correctly now if I have the power turned on to wireless receiver. If I turn power off to wireless receiver the wired handheld only powers the pump and won’t send power to open or close solenoid. I’m puzzled
That is bizarre. You have the leads for the wireless remote still hooked up to the solenoid valves?
@@JeffinTD yes that’s correct. If I unhook the 2 wires from the wireless remote receiver that go to the up and down solenoids the wired remote also works normally.
Something is wired wonky. Kinda hard to guess, without being there.
Nice Video. Where did you connect your blue wire at?
Thanks. The blue wire that came on the controller is an antenna and doesn’t get hooked to anything. The blue wire I soldered to the diodes goes to the small lug on the solenoid switch that runs the pump motor. Right at 8:24 you can see the blue wire.
Great video! What Diodes did you use? I'm looking to do something similar with my dump trailer! Thanks!
Glad you found something helpful. If I recall correctly I got a 5 pack of 20 amp diodes off Amazon.
@@JeffinTD Thank you!
Thank you so much helps a lot
I did this same wiring but when I press the button for up or down the solenoid clicks on and off in 1 second intervals causing the start wire to lose and gain power, any idea on what I should look at first?
Without being able to look at it, it is hard to say. Any circuit breaker in the system? Wires and diodes appropriate for the current? (I think I used 20 amp diodes).
@@JeffinTD I have 1 power wire connected to the hot side of the solenoid, 1 ground wire connected to the ground on the solenoid, 1 wire coming from the start post on the solenoid that has 2 15amp diodes connected, each diode has 2 wires on then ends of them 1 runs to the up solenoid and the other to the up wire on the box for the wireless remote, vice versa for the other diode. When I put my test light on the start post of the solenoid the light turns on and off you can also hear the solenoid kicking on and off as with the pump you can hear start and stop as the power starts and stops
@@JeffinTD I know that isn’t much to go off of and not being able to actually put hands on something or visually see is even harder but I’m at a loss unless the remote or receiver is bad causing it to not want to continually send or receive a signal
@@blond9217 Kind of hard to tell from the description what might be going on. Maybe unhook the leads going from the motor solenoid, the Up solenoid and the down solenoid, and test things with a test light. I’d also want to confirm it isn’t trying to energize the Up and Down solenoids at the same time.
I am having the same problem with mine right now. Were you able to find a solution? I found that I have constant 12.5 volts to the wire that goes to motor when its not connected. Once that wire is connected to the motor it starts surging the same way that you explained.
Hi Jeff , the toggle switch ? did you wire that in line with the red to the battery side of solenoid? If so then that line should have a in line fuse and a on/off toggle. would that be correct?
It’s been a while but I believe I have an inline fuse attached to the battery, to the switch, to the controller’s receiver. The receiver pulls a small amount of power even when not activated, so I didn’t want a battery drain.
Are the diodes 12v? Finding 20 amp but not 12v
As long as they are rated for 12v or more, they should be fine. The ones I used I believe were rated for 45v.
Are you able to make me one I will pay you,thanks.
Unfortunately I’d have to decline. There are commercially available remotes for dump trailers, and those companies have liability insurance…. Also even if I considered my time only worth minimum wage, a commercial unit would be a better deal for someone who doesn’t want to build their own.
Thanks though.