Electric shower problems: "My electric shower is going hot and cold, what to do?"
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- čas přidán 3. 07. 2024
- George helps to resolve one of the most common electric shower problems - hot and cold water cycling, often caused by a faulty flow valve. Shop for flow valves on our website: bit.ly/2aF5H2w
Timestamps:
0:00 Hot & cold cycling explained
0:46 Things to check first
1:52 How flow valves work
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Questions about your shower?
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Official website: www.showerdoc.com/
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The Shower Doctor blog: www.showerdoc.com/blog - Jak na to + styl
thanks for these excellent videos - keep going!
Thanks for the video, love your straightforward, concise and calming explanation of things!
A very informative and clearly explained set of instructions that enabled me to resolve the issue with my shower very quickly, thank you!
Same problem with my Mira play. After reading comments below, I took off my TCO, and it was a bit furry, so I changed it with 1 I had on my old shower, and it now works a treat. My thanks to you for pointing me in that direction. I can now order the proper 1 for my shower.
He explains it simply, straight to the point, thanks
I wish I had found this sooner, spent all day, plus one returned shower unit trying to fix it, until I realized the stop tap was not fully open - thank you for saving the day!!!
literally just saved my hundreds on buying a new shower/someone to install it... thank you!
great vids clear and simple, keep up the good work
excellent, clear explanation. thank you
Thank you this need to be the featured video for my search terms
Thanks! Very informative.
Thank you for the advise keeping going with them
Another great video thank you
A very useful video, the content of which was put over in a simple and understandable way. By systematically going through the points in the video I was able to fix my shower in half an hour. Turned out to be calcium deposits behind the filter in the hose that is connected to the showerhead. The filter appeared to be clear on visual inspection but I decided to remove it anyway and found the internal hose diameter was about 1/3 blocked. Many, many thanks for such a helpful video.
Clear explanation! Thanks
Thank you ! I messed up my shower by using one of those funky propellor heads. Almost as soon as I did the temperatures went loopy but I thought it was to do with work the water board was doing at the same time.
Watched this video to see about the water flow and swapped the head back and voila - everything is back to normal again ! Saved me a plumbers visit !
Thanks George!
Excellent, thank you.
Very helpful....and easily understood by oldie like me..
Thank you sooo much. I now know what to look for, could be a couple of those issues you raised
Hi George, thank you for the very informative video, I will view a few more and then try my hand at a repair.
big up to the shower doctor. thanks for your help
Nice mate tnx for sharing
Most causes of an electric shower going hot and cold is user error. The temperature/flow dial should usually be between 10-3 o'clock depending on a person's temperature prefference(38-48C), kw rating of the shower, etc. Broken front cover dials can also cause temperature cycling. A lot of showers have a minimum dynamic pressure, that is what the diaphram is for in the flow valve. Make sure that your installer is checking for pressures before they install and selecting the correct shower for your plumbing system. Don't let them tell you that an electric shower will give you the same performance as a mixer shower. They are not even in the same league. Lastly if the shower has been in for x amount of years( depening on where you live in the country) scale can build up on the underside of your thermal switch. Sometimes the heater tank can be cleaned and the thermal switch replaced other wise the heater tank and thermal switch need replace. ****THERE ISN'T A THERMOSTAT IN AN ELECTRIC SHOWER UNLESS IT HAS THERMOSTSIC IN THE NAME***** Thermostats maintain a set temperature.
A very informative and well explained video, thank you.
Great ! Just watched the video then went and fixed the shower ! Going hot then cold , blocked filter . Whole job took 10 mins. Probably saved me 50 quid for a plumber.
Very useful video
Excellent explain
Hi Thanks for the video on shower faults. Very useful. Magan
Thanks for helps
Brilliant. Informative
Very informative 👏
Very good video . Correct and to the point. Thank you .
nice 1 buddy! good to see a fellow scotsman on youtube rather than America taking over all the time. got a cheap triton shower.... hoping I can fix this now coz I cant afford any more money
Goodman blocked filter on shower hose taken it out the shower is keeping temperature very nicely thank you, sir
Could also be a faulty inlet valve/solenoid coil, if it runs hot--cold and indicates low pressure.
I have encountered this problem on many showers, like the Shower Doctor say's in the video, it's always sensible to check stop taps/restrictors/showerheads/inlet filter and hoses for kinks etc first, it may well be a faulty Flow/Stabiliser valve, but before I look at the flow/stabiliser valve my next port of call is always the inlet valve because this is the first component on water entry into the shower.
For similar symtoms as in this video, I've sometimes found the inlet valve solenoid coil was at fault, if it doesn't fully open then there may not be enough water pressure at the Flow/Stabilser valve for it to operate the pressure switch's, which inturn connect power to the heating elements in the heating chamber(Heater Can) so runs cold, or just enough to operate them but less water flow so runs hot. It is easy to check the solenoid coil with a multimeter, it should be at least 3.5 ohms across terminals, if you havn't a multimeter the solenoid coils are approx £8 to £12 so worth having a spare in your tool kit and just replacing it, and in most cases (depending on make/model) they just prise off from the inlet valve without removal of the valve, but if you have to remove the valve to change the coil it may be worth fitting a new inlet valve which comes complete with solenoid coil.
A faulty inlet valve or solenoid coil can give the symtoms mentioned in this video which are,--
Symtom 1,- Cycles Hot to Cold and sometimes shutdown on some more expensive showers.
Reason,- The solenoid coil has partially broken down and just partly opens and water pressure fluctuates through the flow/stabiliser valve, thus intermittently operating the pressure switch's that connect power to the heating elements so water cycles hot then cold, or, just enough pressure to operate the switch's but because less water is going through the Heater Chamber the water becomes too hot, this may also cause the Thermal Cut Out switch to operate so the water will then just run cold.
Symtom 2,- Continuous water or dripping water coming from shower head whether turned on or off.
Reason,- The inlet valve is naturally kept closed by incoming water pressure when not in use, therefore the inlet valve will not fully close, normally due to debri, calcium build up or failed seal so may need a complete new inlet valve.
Symtom 3,- Water stops after low pressure light come on, or no water at all.
Reason,- Again, the inlet valve is naturally kept closed by incoming water pressure when not in use, when energised by turning on the shower, the solenoid coil has to overcome this pressure and lift the valve from it's seat to allow the water through the shower and keep it open until switched off, so either the solenoid coil has lost all or part of it's capacity to fully open the valve due to coil breakdown causing low pressure and shutdown, or the valve is stuck/seized closed, so may need just a new solenoid coil or a complete new inlet valve.
There's a great video from The Shower Doctor showing the correct, safe way to check and change the solenoid coil.
Hope the Shower Doc approves these comments and and it's of help to someone.
my shower a triton martinique , if i push the button for more heat its way to Hot , if push the button for less power/heat its a little bit warm but to cold
@@damonstacey1 When you select high heat you adjust the temperature by turning the flow temperature dial to increase water flow through the heater, so will come out cooler. Most people leave it on the high heat setting and adjust the temperature with the dial to achieve more pressure. if it's still too hot then it could be a number of faults.
I've got a triton excite plus 8.5kw electric shower. The problem that I've got is that I only have to turn the temperature slightly up or down and it either goes very hot or very cold
Cheers
I have a relatively old Creda 8500dl electric shower. It started to show the following fault. There are 4 power setting positions, if you like, 1/4,1/2, 3/4 and full . When I was turning the water on which in my model is turning a dial the heating indicator light was very dim and only showed if the power setting was in position 1/2 or full, but only heated the water to tepid when I set it to the usual position for nice temperature. I discovered though that if I fully opened the water dial I could get the indicator light to be as bright as it always was, and when I turned it back to the nice position it maintained the heating and all four positions work. I assume this is something to do with the pressure switch.
Hi, i don't believe there is anything wrong with my flow valve but is there anything that can be done to regulate the cold feed to the shower when there is a high demand for water elsewhere in the house i.e my washing machine cycle clearly has a quite dramatic effect on it or when someone runs water/flushes toilet. Is it something a diy'er could fix if so. Thanks in advance
I just got a brand new mira azora, all plumbee up and fitted properly. Worked yesterday and not today. Any ideas?? Wont get hot
Great if you know what he's talking about. Where is the shower valve situated?? I've never seen one anywhere near my shower. Or is it part of the hot water system?
Can you help. Mira Azora Shower has stopped working completely. Power and water are fine. Have looked at all the great videos you have and a question. On the Mira, the flow valve has 2 arms on the top. Do these move when there is water pressure so the power selector works? I was testing the switches and when you turn the selector the switches do not seem make contact. Do these arms help make the switches work when there is water pressure?
Just had a new Worcester boiler fitted and now the shower is either really cold or too hot 🙁
Can it be a problem with lime and can it be cleaned?
Hi George, great video . I have had 2 Aqualisa Quartz 9.5kw shower and they both have had the same problem of hot and cold water cycling. You can hear a distinct click when showering then the shower goes cold, you then hear a click again about 30 to 45 seconds later the shower goes back to the original warm temperature. This is so dam annoying whilst trying to shower, the longer the shower runs the more this happens, I tried phoning Aqualisa customer support but they are useless and just want to sell me a new engine. I am fed up buying the same shower which will only go the same way after the year warranty has expired.
My water pressure is excellent, so Is this cycling fault caused by the thermostat or shower valve going faulty or getting furred up with calcium/chalk as we live in a hard water area ?
Are these valve/thermostats easy to take apart and descale or replace? If so do you have any replacement part numbers ?
Thanks in advance
Clive
My Mira Go is either too hot or too cold and the Eco is just luke warm the shower was working fine and has only been used about a dozen times, its the temperature that wont adjust?
I have mira sport max electric shower which is probably about 10 years old now? (not sure It was already installed when I moved in house 6 years ago) but recently It started to malfunction with the overheating light coming on. followed by the water turning cold. it does this on all the settings. done all the usual checks clean shower head, even took the head off! but it still overheats. can you please help cheers
Many thanks for shooting these info vids..
Can I replace a 8.5 kw unit with a 10.5 or 9.5 kw unit ?
Only if your electric cable and trip are rated for a higher wattage shower. If your not sure dont risk it without expert advice
I think mine is the shower head but it's a constant issue. If I remove the shower head or turn the setting to jet, the temperature is fine, but on the normal setting it's far too hot. So we know the issue is with the shower head, but the issue is constant though and comes back quickly after the shower head is fully descaled (submerged in descaler) or even replaced. It's a hard water area but generally we get very little scale. The shower head is an official Triton shower head that is designed to be used with these showers.
When running the shower cold with no shower head on it, lots of green and brown looking flakes come out into the shower tray. I'm guessing it's a type of scale building up in the heating element and then getting caught in the shower head? Any help would be much appreciated. The last thing I want to do is spend huge amounts replacing the shower only to face the same problem.
my Neptune shower is dead indicator light comes on and no water model -solo A97900138 please help thanks
my shower has stopped altogether it wont turn on, whats the problem?
My Creda 950DL electric shower
doesn’t work properly.
The Mid LED light stays off - water runs cold at full pressure. Turned the water flow dial to extreme hot - then
water gets lukewarm, while the flow from the showerhead is weak. Both High LEDs
stays on, while the Mid LED stay off.
I then tried to remove component/s. However, after spending about
an hour trying…I found they were not straightforward to remove. I then replaced
the cover and left it.
I suppose because the Creda 950DL is so difficult
to repair, why there is no information online showing how to repair them???
So, I guess it's got to be a new shower?!
Iv had a couple of tritons they seem pretty poor quality from my experience
My Mira Sport was running hot and cold, after watching this I ordered a flow control valve £45, it didn't solve the problem.. It turned out to be the Thermal Cutout (TCO) £13.45. I think these should be mentioned when diagnosing this fault.
Same problem with my Mira play. After reading your comments, I took off my TCO, and it was a bit furry, so I changed it with 1 I had on my old shower, and it now works a treat. My thanks to you and the shower doc for pointing me in that direction.
This keeps happening too me
My landlord won't fix nothing my hot water goes cold through the whole house quick
Me to it happens once a year and every year they call someone to put a new part on and with in year it goes bad and they say everything goes bad I told them there is somthing worng they wont listen
My shower runs OK then goes cold then back hot then again back cold and so on .what is it can I repair it
I can't turn off the power to my electric shower by pulling the switch on/off switch. Is this safe.
My power shower keeps running when I turn the dial to the off position I have a replacement solenoidwhat's the possible problem?
Did u find a cause for your faulty shower
I have tried two showers already, and I still have the problem. I think that the problem is the incoming pressure (I live in a 6th floor). Is there something I can do about it? Can I put a small water tank? help plz
Bit late but I have very low water pressure. Off a well pumped to house , use an inline pump for washing machine to boost supply. Shower has to be na pumped one , quite pricey but works well.
My electric shower won't go cold even when switched to cold. Is this a valve problem? Ta .
😎
My flow is hot, then cold, then hot, then cold... and the flow is low
Replaced my solenoid and water flow valve. Then put everything back to together and my shower is exactly the same.
My water flow into the house is fine. No idea whats wrong with my unit
Wasted £58 on buying the flow valve
I just have to buy a new shower unit
It's Dale strout from Mount Sterling Kentucky he's a slumlord apartment caught on fire that won't fix nothing to we're living in all this and more when we moved in the toilets was broke too and he will not fix it
Great video ... my Triton T80si was cycling cold then hot, but it wasn't a flow issue ... one of the sensors (on the outlet pipe) failed. I bypassed it temporarily, but I'm not sure if that is safe, but can't find a replacement part. Do you know why there is apparently a second sensor on this shower (in the outlet) in addition to the one at top of the heating tank ? Thanks
czcams.com/video/YcJ7yqSDJY8/video.html
Wish it was in English