One thing I did was to rotate the clamp as I was starting to snug it. If it rotated with even resistance all the way around I knew it was making a good seal, if not I would giggle it until it did.. Then I would tighten a little and rotate the clamp again and giggle if there was any rough spot until the clamp would go all the way around with the same level of resistance. After tightening to the point where it was really difficult to rotate the clamp I knew the y-pipe was properly seated. I will also say it is critically important to also tighten the manifold bolts connecting to the y-pipe evenly before you put the final closure on the turbo clamp or the y-pipe will not rotate into the proper position to seal to the exhaust manifolds.... Hope this helps someone, after doing mine more times than I wanted to and cursing at this thing I finally figured out how it is done.
Thanks man. I unbolted the turbo and made it waaay easier to get downpipe and exhaust on. Only took about an hour for both. Used a hammer and bar to persuade the clamps on.
Thank you this was the most helpful thing I have watched yet on my 6.0. I have been pulling my camper off 40ft for about 8 hrs and I could figure out why it was hissing so loud. But I just had my turbo off the few days before and this explains it so very well
I usually take a pry bar to the front of the turbo gently lift up on the turbo it makes it line right up then sinch clamp down and let turbo down install screws
I have had 2 sets of MBRP up=pipes and they fit like crap. Their solution is that they "require" lifting of the cab for proper install. I can install factory pipes in under 20 min, in the driveway w/o additional light, after sunset. The MBRP's took me two days of fighting them to get them installed some what acceptable. KC was GTG when I reached out to them w/ my issue. Charlie stands behind his product and goes above and beyond in his CS.
Tell you what. 1st off, I'm sure everyone noticed right away, there is no factory heat/sound deadening padding above that turbo. Fk that stuff!!! 2nd, I have an aftermarket 3pc up-pipe kit with a ductile iron y-pipe housing. It was relatively expensive but highly recommended by many, so I went with it. There is a stud on the firewall that a cross tube hangs on that I couldn't see....I fought that b!tch for 4 consecutive days before I finally saw that stud. I snapped it off and everything dropped in like butter (compared to pure hell, a shot back, knees & give-out shoulders). I replaced the factory y-pipe because I was getting exhaust fumes in the truck with the A/C on. Now, I'm getting burning oil smell in the cabin. When doing all this
your videos are very helpful! thanks for the tips. my sprinter van has low boost and cabin smells of exhaust. gonna run the test you suggested in another video to see if i can see smoke near the up pipes. and if so start looking to fix those leaks!
Something I’ve done in the past especially with new (aftermarket) up pipes is Take the turbo apart, or get just a turbine housing (cast iron portion). Way easier to test fit and see what you’re doing. Most of the time with new up pipes that have updated bellows, they hang up on the heat shield. By having just the back side of the turbo you can get a good fit and massage the heat shield to fit correctly. Little more work, but if your installing an old turbo probably a good idea to clean up the vanes and check the unison ring anyway.
I am surprised with all that persuasion causing the binding didn’t cause any undue stress on the flex joints or the pipes themselves. I am guessing this is why ppl complain sometimes that their pipes failed again after a couple years. Lateral misalignment is the worse.
All of the wiggling and wobbling of the turbo. I would be worried about damaging or ripping the o ring on the turbo oil drain tube, and causing a oil leak.
... which is why it is worth it, I think, to lift the cab off when so much is disconnected anyway. I am not a mechanic, but I would sure like to have inspected the work that was done on my up pipes to be sure it was done right, heat shields replaced proper.... how do I know they even replaced it ?
It really depends on skill level or experience level. This can be a 10 minute job or a 1 hr job. As long as you dont have to replace any cracked up-pipes, that total fix if done yourself should cost you $FREE99
i got a 1 piece up pipe from left lane diesel i followed ur video the flange is totally flat on the turbo but the gap in the clamp seems wider than urs i can stick my finger in the gap first clamp i broke and got a 2nd one from ford but the new ones are made by ideal i dont think its leaking i dont see any soot trails is this normal?
It could be a slightly difference in the new clamp. have you performed an exhaust leak test? We have a how to video on our channel. We would also invite you to reach out to our customer service team and they can assist you with any other questions you might have. 480-688-7160
If they are bellowed up-pipes they should give a little and make it work. We use 03 turbine housings in some of our turbos and dont have any fitment issues.
@@KCTURBOS Not sure what the issue was. Purchased an new turbo same housing for 03' clicked right in. The powermax is way bigger and everything was force to fit it seemed. New tubo popped right in, lined perfect with uppipes and down pipe. Didnt even have to move a thing, but tighten the v clamps. The side coming from the uppipe had a different angle than the turbo I got new. Dont know if Garret changed housings slightly or what. 0 issues now with the Turbo Time USA stage 1.5, 20min swap out.
Is all that jerking around of the turbo potentially damaging the drain o-ring or un-seating it. 🤔 There's not much you could do about it honestly... but lube the o-ring and pray.
It is an ODAGS Diesel intake manifold. Its called the s3r, with the egr deleted. they sell n egr intact version. You can find it on our site and special order it polished. kcturbos.net/collections/6-0-powerstroke/products/odawg-stage-3r-intake-manifold?variant=33074545870
Great video if you are online my Y pipe came with a little gasket that goes on that driver side between the y pipe and the turbo and it is a pain to get that to seat while aligning the pipe it keeps falling down on the transmission any tips?
I installed a ICP relocator kit to get it away from Satan's @sshole and in an easy spot to change out near the compressor inlet. It has multiple threaded joints and was leaking a tad. I put proper 242 threadlock on them and reinstalled. Earlier I pulled the turbo out and tried to get it apart at the unison ring clamp, but just couldn't get it more than 1mm apart. I tried to get it tight together but couldn't get better than say 0.4mm gap. Threw clamp on it and put back in with '04 drain pipe upgrade, properly spaced. Still getting a lil oil in the galley, bottom of vgt area of turbo is oil damp. I don't want to but need to yank turbo & make it dolpin-püssy tight again and reinstall. Any tips?
Hey I have the same issue, I just rebuilt my whole engine and put it all back in and all that. Anyways with the cab and everything on I cant seem to get to the up pipe bolts loose, the higher one on the driver side is giving me trouble to get at. Anyone have any advice on a good way to loosen these up?
I have 2003 F-350 4X4 - Trying to replace drivers side exhaust manifold because its rusted thru with holes in several places...….the bolts that held up-pipe and drivers side manifold together rotted and are frozen in place in the up pipe flange. I tried heating the up pipe flange red hot and using a punch to bang the bolts out didn't work ...then tried heating red hot again and using 10mm wrench to screw out....doesn't budge. do you have any tricks to remove these up pipe flange bolts ? I don't want to take the turbo and up pipe out and remove these on the bench
You're already fucking up. With the new Y pipe it has no heat shields. The factor one has heat shields to protect the FICM. You should of wraped it with the heat cloth that you can get in 20 foot spools.
Getting the clamps to break loose on an old turbo can be tough and the flange on the turbo always seems to be badly rusted. Has anybody had success with putting Never Seize on these locations to prevent these problems?
I spray clamps and mounting surface with wd-40, loosen the clamp then lightly tap with a brass hammer to make some harmonics to break the bond, works every time
One thing I did was to rotate the clamp as I was starting to snug it. If it rotated with even resistance all the way around I knew it was making a good seal, if not I would giggle it until it did.. Then I would tighten a little and rotate the clamp again and giggle if there was any rough spot until the clamp would go all the way around with the same level of resistance. After tightening to the point where it was really difficult to rotate the clamp I knew the y-pipe was properly seated. I will also say it is critically important to also tighten the manifold bolts connecting to the y-pipe evenly before you put the final closure on the turbo clamp or the y-pipe will not rotate into the proper position to seal to the exhaust manifolds.... Hope this helps someone, after doing mine more times than I wanted to and cursing at this thing I finally figured out how it is done.
As someone already commented about, I'm curious who redid the engine harness. It looks beautiful!
Thanks man. I unbolted the turbo and made it waaay easier to get downpipe and exhaust on. Only took about an hour for both. Used a hammer and bar to persuade the clamps on.
Thank you this was the most helpful thing I have watched yet on my 6.0. I have been pulling my camper off 40ft for about 8 hrs and I could figure out why it was hissing so loud. But I just had my turbo off the few days before and this explains it so very well
Thanks so much!! Had a hell of an exhaust leak and just could not nail it down. Watched your video and figured it all out. Thanks again
I usually take a pry bar to the front of the turbo gently lift up on the turbo it makes it line right up then sinch clamp down and let turbo down install screws
I have had 2 sets of MBRP up=pipes and they fit like crap. Their solution is that they "require" lifting of the cab for proper install. I can install factory pipes in under 20 min, in the driveway w/o additional light, after sunset. The MBRP's took me two days of fighting them to get them installed some what acceptable. KC was GTG when I reached out to them w/ my issue. Charlie stands behind his product and goes above and beyond in his CS.
Come install them in my driveway!
This helped a lot. I also loosen the pedestal, that always gives enough extra to make it work.
the inside the that engine bay is beautiful
Tell you what. 1st off, I'm sure everyone noticed right away, there is no factory heat/sound deadening padding above that turbo. Fk that stuff!!! 2nd, I have an aftermarket 3pc up-pipe kit with a ductile iron y-pipe housing. It was relatively expensive but highly recommended by many, so I went with it. There is a stud on the firewall that a cross tube hangs on that I couldn't see....I fought that b!tch for 4 consecutive days before I finally saw that stud. I snapped it off and everything dropped in like butter (compared to pure hell, a shot back, knees & give-out shoulders).
I replaced the factory y-pipe because I was getting exhaust fumes in the truck with the A/C on. Now, I'm getting burning oil smell in the cabin. When doing all this
your videos are very helpful! thanks for the tips. my sprinter van has low boost and cabin smells of exhaust. gonna run the test you suggested in another video to see if i can see smoke near the up pipes. and if so start looking to fix those leaks!
Something I’ve done in the past especially with new (aftermarket) up pipes is Take the turbo apart, or get just a turbine housing (cast iron portion). Way easier to test fit and see what you’re doing. Most of the time with new up pipes that have updated bellows, they hang up on the heat shield. By having just the back side of the turbo you can get a good fit and massage the heat shield to fit correctly. Little more work, but if your installing an old turbo probably a good idea to clean up the vanes and check the unison ring anyway.
Solid Install Advice! You can’t go wrong with these steps!!!
man who did that to the engine harness that looks great...
Sure wish I found this clip two weeks ago!
I am surprised with all that persuasion causing the binding didn’t cause any undue stress on the flex joints or the pipes themselves. I am guessing this is why ppl complain sometimes that their pipes failed again after a couple years. Lateral misalignment is the worse.
YEP! EXACTLY what I did. That's why I'm here. Thanks, I'll loosen the up pipe and get new clamps. Loosen the turbo pedestal plate too.
Pleasure to watch a Pro work!
Awesome video! Really great job explaining everything as you went through it.
Purdy! Excellent tips, sometimes ya gotta give and take a lil bit to get her to sit
Great video. Understand why i still have a leak on my turbo now . thanks yoy showed with much detail.
All of the wiggling and wobbling of the turbo. I would be worried about damaging or ripping the o ring on the turbo oil drain tube, and causing a oil leak.
That o ring sits up high in the turbo..
Good video. Just the info I was looking foe because i have the same problem
... which is why it is worth it, I think, to lift the cab off when so much is disconnected anyway. I am not a mechanic, but I would sure like to have inspected the work that was done on my up pipes to be sure it was done right, heat shields replaced proper.... how do I know they even replaced it ?
How many hours do this job take and how much?
It really depends on skill level or experience level. This can be a 10 minute job or a 1 hr job. As long as you dont have to replace any cracked up-pipes, that total fix if done yourself should cost you $FREE99
i got a 1 piece up pipe from left lane diesel i followed ur video the flange is totally flat on the turbo but the gap in the clamp seems wider than urs i can stick my finger in the gap first clamp i broke and got a 2nd one from ford but the new ones are made by ideal i dont think its leaking i dont see any soot trails is this normal?
It could be a slightly difference in the new clamp. have you performed an exhaust leak test? We have a how to video on our channel. We would also invite you to reach out to our customer service team and they can assist you with any other questions you might have. 480-688-7160
What’s better a non VGT or a VGT Turbo?
Early 03 turbo housings are a pain to match to aftermarket uppipes. Angle is slighty different.
If they are bellowed up-pipes they should give a little and make it work. We use 03 turbine housings in some of our turbos and dont have any fitment issues.
@@KCTURBOS Not sure what the issue was. Purchased an new turbo same housing for 03' clicked right in. The powermax is way bigger and everything was force to fit it seemed. New tubo popped right in, lined perfect with uppipes and down pipe. Didnt even have to move a thing, but tighten the v clamps. The side coming from the uppipe had a different angle than the turbo I got new. Dont know if Garret changed housings slightly or what. 0 issues now with the Turbo Time USA stage 1.5, 20min swap out.
Excellent tips
Is all that jerking around of the turbo potentially damaging the drain o-ring or un-seating it. 🤔 There's not much you could do about it honestly... but lube the o-ring and pray.
Yeah, the drain tube o-ring is quite forgiving and not prone to leak fortunately
Great vid! what kind of intake manifold is that? looks really sharp polished
It is an ODAGS Diesel intake manifold. Its called the s3r, with the egr deleted. they sell n egr intact version. You can find it on our site and special order it polished. kcturbos.net/collections/6-0-powerstroke/products/odawg-stage-3r-intake-manifold?variant=33074545870
Good video well explained.
Where on earth do I get those harnesses😍
Hours of custom Work! lol
is there a gasket in-between the turbo and the mounting surface?
Great video if you are online my Y pipe came with a little gasket that goes on that driver side between the y pipe and the turbo and it is a pain to get that to seat while aligning the pipe it keeps falling down on the transmission any tips?
I installed a ICP relocator kit to get it away from Satan's @sshole and in an easy spot to change out near the compressor inlet. It has multiple threaded joints and was leaking a tad. I put proper 242 threadlock on them and reinstalled. Earlier I pulled the turbo out and tried to get it apart at the unison ring clamp, but just couldn't get it more than 1mm apart. I tried to get it tight together but couldn't get better than say 0.4mm gap. Threw clamp on it and put back in with '04 drain pipe upgrade, properly spaced. Still getting a lil oil in the galley, bottom of vgt area of turbo is oil damp. I don't want to but need to yank turbo & make it dolpin-püssy tight again and reinstall. Any tips?
Hey I have the same issue, I just rebuilt my whole engine and put it all back in and all that. Anyways with the cab and everything on I cant seem to get to the up pipe bolts loose, the higher one on the driver side is giving me trouble to get at. Anyone have any advice on a good way to loosen these up?
What size clamp goes into the y pipe on a 2004 f250 turbo
I have 2003 F-350 4X4 - Trying to replace drivers side exhaust manifold because its rusted thru with holes in several places...….the bolts that held up-pipe and drivers side manifold together rotted and are frozen in place in the up pipe flange. I tried heating the up pipe flange red hot and using a punch to bang the bolts out didn't work ...then tried heating red hot again and using 10mm wrench to screw out....doesn't budge.
do you have any tricks to remove these up pipe flange bolts ? I don't want to take the turbo and up pipe out and remove these on the bench
Would try to drill them out
I have a really serious question...
Any chance KC would sponsor a Turbo for my truck?
Thank you in advance,
Me
You're already fucking up. With the new Y pipe it has no heat shields. The factor one has heat shields to protect the FICM. You should of wraped it with the heat cloth that you can get in 20 foot spools.
Getting the clamps to break loose on an old turbo can be tough and the flange on the turbo always seems to be badly rusted. Has anybody had success with putting Never Seize on these locations to prevent these problems?
I spray clamps and mounting surface with wd-40, loosen the clamp then lightly tap with a brass hammer to make some harmonics to break the bond, works every time
what brand y pipe is that?
Thank you thank you thank you for not making it look easy.
Those look like left lane diesel up pipes.... for $400, I'd expect perfect fitment.
Two trumbs up!
✌
there' a better trick for that up pipe using a ratchet strap... diesel tech Ron videos.
I have seen that one... good advice but can also break bellows
Bullshit it won’t work I have tried
The background music is annoying.
M C
Whiney little bitches like you are annoying