Quest For K2 Savage Mountain
Vložit
- čas přidán 9. 05. 2014
- To license this clip go to www.natgeomotion.com/bell/clip... Climbers from all over the world take on the challenge of K-2, the second highest mountain in the world after Everest.Explore K-2 right along with the famous team from Italy, who were the first to scale the mountain in 1954, and now, decades later, as hundreds are drawn to the K-2 challenge.
A group of 10 Nepali mountaineers just scaled k2 during the harsh winter. The first ever to do it!!
Yeahhh
Nims Purja and his team! And that was right after they summited all 14 8000 meter peaks in 7 months!
I think Nims is the greatest mountain climber of all time. And his team with Mingma Davis, Mingma Tenzi and all the other is the greatest team of all time!
@@hjpev6469 probably makes it safer at the bottleneck. Lower temperatures and less likely for the shelf to collapse.
People from Nepal are quite literally built different they are superhumans. I love reading up on sherpas and nepalese mountaineers they are amazing. I could go on for ever about what they do but im sure everyone here knows. They have saved countless lives, they set up camps not just the base camp, they set up the ropes, they do everything and best of all they summit all the time. Without the sherpas very few of these people could successfully summit any of these peaks
@@hjpev6469 A great feat for sure, but greatest mountaineers are alpinists, who climb alpine style, without oxygen and without having large teams doing everything for them including fixing ropes. Nims had a large team of sherpas basically aiding his way to the top, not taking away from his feat but that doesn't compare to the likes of Messner.
An elite Spanish climber just perished on K2. Dude was a tremendous endurance athlete, but mountains don’t care who you are when it decides to take you.
Sergi mingote and the others what a tragedy 🥺
Poignant but true statement.
Which proves my point I presented above.. "tremendous endurance athlete" is not any more now, is it...
@@MrHristoB Are you OP?
“He had been too high for far too long” yes I’ve been there too
"Will I ever be normal again? Will this ever end?"
😂😂 damn dudleys wife did him dirty so he went and climbed k2 like yh bish
😂😆
Everest earns you bragging rights, K2 earns you respect !
@@bigmikeobama523 you can literally just walk up Everest
Ind Pol Com Brilliant! Well said.
@@asfand5747 Tell that to the 300 who have died on that mountain.
@@asfand5747 Look it's not the most difficult mountain to climb but it's still very difficult and extremely dangerous for many reasons. People are underrating Everest nowadays.
@@asfand5747 there is nothing technical about K2 either though, if you compare their easiest routes then yes K2 is harder. If you can just walk up Everest I suggest you go try walk up the Kangshung face.
What a wonderful documentary
In 1998 I served four postings in army near k2 when officers could not complete a single posting due to illness or fear because its tough. I once spent 72 days at a post that was 22000 feets altitude.during my eight trips from Islamabad to skardu I met many mountaineers going for k2 and asked them what possesses them to do that.it was to prove to themselves that they can win k2.i could tell from their eyes that they were in love 😍 and are not going to listen any reason.rare breed they are
oh my oh my you are so tough, so many officers could not do it but you did it, OMG you are so good, cannot freaking believe it!
E I N S I was not that tough I just could not leave my men without their officer. I loved my boys more than myself
E I N S you are a little grey 15 year old. You'll probably grow up I guess. Mir khan cool story.
Mir Khan those mountains of Pakistan get stuck in our heads and a climber cant not fall in love
Autumnleaf2011 because youre a lonely angsty teenager trying to comment edgy douchenozzle comments on youtube in a desperate cry for attention ?
“I don’t always forget my matches but when I do I’m on k2”
They didn't forget them . They used all the ones they brought to light up their cigarettes
"It puts a magic spell on you". Best way to describe this magnificent beauty.
Just the equipment disadvantage of expeditions in 1930s vs today is staggering.
K2 never fails to give me goosebumps ❤️
All i though when i was at everest was how amazing it was that people got so far in tge early 1900s. No modern gear and unknown how to scale it. Amazing
Very impressive footage, especially the historical pictures I’ve never seen before. Great video!
The mountaineers mountain, K2 is the ultimate test! Annapurna has the highest death rate, but with its incredible steep slopes, the treacherous weather conditions, the technical difficulty, the danger of avalanche and rockfalls, and the higher altitude, K2 is the greatest climbing challenge for any elite mountaineer.
Adding to that, it is the most beautiful and majestic mountain, although at the same time, the most frightening and intimidating!
Honest question - aren’t the climbers on k2 just pulling a rope to ascend instead of climbing? Is that real mountaineering? I realize it’s difficult nonetheless.
@@alexandra4334 Yep, you're correct. My mountaineering experience is fairly limited, but I would say that climbing fixed ropes set by other people isn't mountaineering. It's still difficult and has dangers of course, but the most respected and "legit" way to climb is alpine style, where you are climbing with a small team and carrying all of the gear and safety equipment by yourself. Almost like the difference between film and digital photography; you end up in the same place but how you get there matters
@@alexandra4334 why don't you try
I guess u will not be able to climb with ropes half of the mountain
We are humans not fictious spidermans Or supermans...
Without equipments you cannot climb...
Idiotic question you are asking
@@alexandra4334 They are real mountaineers. You will not get up unless you have huge experience... years worth of high altitude climbing. You could be dragged up Everest without much experience and a modicum of fitness, but K2 is a whole 'nother ball game. You are essentially on your own.
Can you imagine being that close to the summit, and found out you are out of matches!
It begs the question why none of them carried flint and steel.
God dumb it why did I not pack the lighter
Ya, it's like going camping and You realize You forgot your rolling papers.
@@Eusantdac have not had a good laugh, like the one you just gave me, in a while, thank you.
Houston said in another video that they stopped because of the weather
When Bob Bates says "It was a wonderful moment....", I get chills imagining how he felt at the sight of all those magnificent peaks.
Richard Bwanika Bwanika Every one can visit these beautiful mountains its located in Pakistan but You have to walk six days From( Askole) a small village in Gilgit Baltistan Pakistan to reach this amazing area
Tyler Cochran You are most welcome Pakistan will become more safer after 2018 due to the mighty project "China Pakistan Economic Corridor" also known as CPEC.Afghan immigrants will be sent to Afghanistan in 2017 and Pakistan is going to step aside from Afghan policies.Pakistan will become more safer for foreign tourists in upcoming years
@@waheedhussayn well I hearx it cost a good amount on money just to see it... I hope that's not true. I really would like to go see it.
Cold, he felt cold
@@waheedhussayn did it happen
My Friend is off to K2 expedition today from Skurdu ! I just wish Him the best and safe return ! Long live Urfan Durrani!
WOW. Did he make it?
did he make it?
SPEECHLESS!!! Fantastic video
And a Polish skier, skied it from the summit to the bottom in 2018. ;) Super Huge balls!
"Other high altitude porters refused. My father agreed to the mission because he was offered a chance to get to the top," says his son, Sultan Ali.
But when they got to the designated spot, late in the evening, the tent was nowhere to be seen. Eventually, as they searched for their Compagnoni and Lacedelli, and continued to climb, one of Bonatti's shouts was answered. The camp had been moved to a point now beyond their reach. A voice shouted to them to leave the oxygen and go back down, but the darkness made this impossible.
Mehdi and Bonatti were forced to spend the night huddled together on an ice ledge enduring temperatures of -50C (-58F). Both were ready to die, but somehow they survived what was, at the time, the highest ever open bivouac, at an altitude of some 8,100m (26,570ft).
It would later be revealed that Compagnoni had deliberately moved the camp because he wanted to prevent Bonatti and Mehdi from joining the summit bid. Compagnoni apparently feared that Bonatti, who was younger and fitter, would steal the limelight. The next morning, leaving the oxygen cylinders there, Mehdi and Bonatti descended. Compagnoni and Lacedelli then picked up the oxygen and went on to claim the summit.
Wow. How evil.
Amazing Video, K2 is truly meant for real climbers, reaching to Base Camp is not an easy Task. But climbing to the Top requires Special Heart! Wishlist❤
And now they have a client group in WINTER! Wtf?
The hike to base camp takes forever
Beautiful video.. 👍👍
There's a lot about the Italian expedition that people don't want to talk about
why not
I am here after my fellow countrymen summited K2 in winter 2021
The Sherpas are the greatest climbers that have ever lived!
Bravest people doing this sacrofies their life for top of the mountains long journey 👍
My initial impression of Bob Bates - seems like a cool dude, you could see his eyes light up remembering when he turned the corner onto the Vista looking at K2. And wow, 1938, what a leader of his time. A soul searcher back then.
I've been Everest obsessed for a few years and now curious about the history on the other Himalayan mountains. This vid was an informative introduction. Can't quite explain it but I am fascinated by those that feel the need to climb these peaks.
Technically speaking, K2 is not in the Himalayas.
Everest was pretty easy......had someone carry all my equipment....on my way to K2 ...... doin it by myself........
VINMAD666 hahah you’re in for a treat!
K2, thinning the herd since 1939.
synapse 131, great observation! Lol
True big slam, no sherpa's helicopters, manned camps , or huge base camp to save your ass.. The Chimney alone would be more daunting than any Everest feature ( unless you do the Hornbien ). Everest catches you out with traffic jams, weather, and a longer stay in the death zone as it's less steep to the summit.. serious stuff, but K2 is just orders of magnitude harder , in every aspect..House's chimney, tough, black pyramid, tougher higher, then if you make it past the bottleneck, then you gotta make it back down.. hopefully the weather stays good.. even seeing it from concorde makes you think.. "what have I gotten myself into".. knowing that not everyone on your team is coming back is a fact.. you will loose friends up there.. it will happen.. must play with ones psyche..then possibly being relegated to a support role after the most difficult climb of your life, to get a compatriot to the summit.. must be maddening, and takes a selfless nature few have.. mind you, it may be a relief once the mountain has beaten you down enough.. every time you leave camp may be the last time you see other humans/ 50/50 chance up high.. crazy..
Lol
plane gaper...Little overkill on the drama.
@@nahyeahwhatsahandle yeah to a degree but he's talking about only one route on K2, the standard one. If you took the hardest route on Everest ( Nevereverest rt or Russian N-face) and tried it by fair means then Everest is every bit as hard as K2. Also just made it sound over the top dramatic, like it's a 100% guaranteed you or your partner will die if you summit and that is factually untrue.
Great information given in the video. Love from 🇵🇰
Nims purja guy from 14 peaks and his team summited k2 in cold winter thats amazing
I commend anyone with the guts to do this. I know that I couldn't. I'm scared to death of heights. But for those that make this their life, kudos to anyone tough enough to make it to the top. I can't imagine how a successful summit must feel to a hardcore mountain climber. I imagine it to feel like discovering a new cure for a disease.
But they don't discover a new cure for anything, do they? In fact, they don't do anything productive at all, except for themselves. Hey, you want to climb mountains or jump off bridges with rubber bands tied to your ankles, more power to you. But don't pretend you're doing something heroic for the benefit of mankind, because you're not.
@@drmabeuse Very true. But commenting below CZcams videos isn't doing anything for mankind either. So why would I care about someone else choosing to live their life (and possibly end it) in the mountains?
@@drmabeuse Thank you!!! Exactly my point!!! Just scratching their enormous egos.
The route my grandparents took to school each day
16:48 what Mr Child said gives me the chills plus the Way he looks
"you tell someone you have climbed Everet ,you get cheers. "when you tell someone you've climbed K2 you'll get forever respect". K2 is a death house with only daring unrelenting souls daring to climb. K2 demands massive respect it stands tall among Karakoram looking for its prey's.
15:40 I don't know about the Sherpas, but I heard the other members of the expedition had grown weary of Fritz Wiessner and there was a lot of speculation they straight up abandoned them to their fate up there.
How dudley wolf stayed that High on the mountain for that long... is unheard of..
Remarkable for an "incompetent" climber, made it just below the summit.
The most passionate can take courage to step on the real king of mountains.
"Piercing the Himalayan sky"
K2 in the Karakoram, just yonder.
Argumemnon yeah they mentioned it later in the video
I am out of breath just watching the climbers ascend
K2 is a beast toughest mountain to climb and the most dangerous to climb in the World
no it is not...McKinley naked and drunk is
Nope. Annapurna I is the hardest and most dangerous thanks to avalanches. It was the first of the 8000ers to be successfully summited, but relatively few have done it since.
@Ryan Gregor Way more dangerous, and that is saying a lot.
@@ValleyoftheRogue is it as steep or remote as K2? I don't know too much about Annapurna
Cliff Hanger Annapurna is the most fatal mountain also people sleep on kangchenjunga these days it has taken more life’s since the 2000’s than Annapurna also the polish line on the k2 is the hardest mountaineering route ever climbed . Only one climb in 1986 by kukuczka no one has attempted it since even messner said that route is plain suicide . That speaks volume . Annapurna south face is the second hardest route ever though .
What u see from the top others can't even imagine. Therefore the love for summits would b quest of daring souls ever. Salute to all who came, died, won or lost.
Mighty K-2 is still unconquerable in winters a savage mountain indeed
Mujahid Hussain just looking at the winter expeditions in the recent years is incredible. So many still die trying... those that will succeed will go down in history!
@@thomasalexandre7056 yesterday another team was rescued from K2 it is savage but my salute to all iron will adventurers God Speed
Hmmm......
1st winter summit of K2 is done by team from Nepal.
Very well done...
GOOD JOB MOUNTAIN THANKS
My soul Cry's for adventure like this
itwasagoodyear go get it!!! Mountaineering is made out to be this unreachable thing for pros, it’s not. It’s doable for anyone who’s willing to learn.
count Brochi, Charlie, Bob and Bill will remain immortal for their poineering visits to K2.
No one remembers the 1991 movie with Michael Beihn from Terminator called “K2”. Great forgotten gem.
I just watched it....amazing movie...although truth is in real live "H" made it back now and Taylor or "him wickwire" stayed overnught6 and survived!!
I had forgotten about that movie. I'll have to check it out again. That completely asinine movie "Vertical Limit" left such a bad taste in my mouth that I forgot there was a decent movie centered around K2.
Oh, but yes. I have it and watch it every now and then. In my top 3 fav movies.
Love documentaries like this, fuck this I’m going to K2 next year
The third pole... power and technical climb
Zen says climbing on K2 mountains required more energy, endurance and adrenalin spirits than Everest.
K2 is cool as hell, but you need to remember that even with immense mountaineering skill it's still a pretty random chance that you survive
"the price for entrance here is passion, grid and an unweavering amount of wealth"
Jip Linnartz where does the money go they pay to climb?
Not really... if you do it by fair means it hardly takes a wealthy person
and you must be willing to leave your trash all over someone else`s country....
@@pattiburtonsalmonsen3202 Well usually the money is paid to experts to take them up the mountain. Everest is very famous for having tons of companies that take people up for a very hefty price. Equipment/Travel/Risk/Time are all included but if you ask me it’s the risk of dying that is so expensive.
And Bill house is a madman. Free climbing that rock wall
Around 19:50 there was a video from Polish expedition (probably not in K2), not Italian.
4:54 what is the song called? Please help a Brother out
I noticed that in this film they say that the three sherpas that went to get Wolfe never came down. As I heard it, the three sherpas that went to get Wolfe went to his tent and he refused to come out and said that he would try to descend the next day. The sherpas then went down the mountain a couple thousand feet to a safer altitude and made camp. The next day two of them went back up and the third one stayed at camp. They never returned and the third sherpa eventually went down extremely upset and frightened and explained what happened. I guess he said it was a very disgusting scene for Wolfe when the sherpas went up there on the first day, he had not left his tent in days and was essentially delirious.
BORFU or he had HACE, and wouldn’t have been able to make a reasonable decision because of the affect of the altitude on his brain. I’ll go with this over your ridiculous assertion.
You climb Everest because you want to tell your friends at a party. You climb K2 because you want to be the best mountaineer is ever.
What mountain is yielding?
Different things to different people....that's what happiness is. There is NO WAY I will even dream to do this. But if it makes your boat floats, why not?
The honor of Italian mountaineering is usually what motivates me as well...
Honor? Are you aware of the Compagnoni betrayal? It's a disgrace for mountaineer community.
@@@NorthGameGod Obviously I was being sarcastic. Enthusiasts are some of the most petty, vindictive, competitive and ornery people you'll find, and always have been. I grew up with musicians for parents, and you will not believe the level of intrigue in the wind section of even a tiny orchestra.
I assume mountaineers are as bad or even worse.
@@politicallycorrectredskin796 Agreed. Maybe being Italian could be another factor to add, as they show similar behaviour in other fields, specially in sports.
K2 requires actual climbing skill.
Everest does to.. if u don't have sherpas u would be a popsicle.
the EQUATION if it weren’t for all the fixed ropes and ladders it wouldn’t be possible, sherpas just make it possible for dummies
@Andrew Machita and climb down from too !!!
It is a difficult mountain by any of the routes but to say Everest does not require climbing is not really true as it depends on what route your attempting and in what style but even on the heard sw route the Hillary step area is some real climbing and that's at an higher altitude than the summit of K2. I don't why people have to compare one to the other as they are both amazing and difficult to climb in their own right
@@skyjuiceification Not true. yes maybe to help transport all your gear to base camp but many real alpinists have done Everest without Sherpa help and by fair means... no bottled oxygen, fixed ropes ect..
Think about the people who originally climbed without ropes or ladders. They had to string as they went. Scary business.
Climbers are still doing it without ropes, it's called free soloing. An example is the North face of the Eiger has been done in just a few hours where the first ascent team took days/week
Waooooooo beutifull k2
"Some may reach the summit" oh ok
"many will die"
TRAGIC lol
K2 the Soul collector!
Amazing they were smokers. Lol nice pipe brother
Incorrect info on the weissner event. Don't blame the sherpas for it. It was Cromwell that criminally destroyed all the camps and foodstuff.
Yea but he wouldn't have done that if the Sherpas told him they are probably dead.
question for climbers, would you climb the highest mountain if it was real easy mountain to climb, like a walk in the park?
I'd smoke a bowl on the summit then I'll be the highest person ever
Make sure u don't use all your matches before you get to the top
Wow can only omagine bill house climbing up first through the chimney lol wow
Madman
Beautiful and dangerous at the same time.
Bonatti and Mahdi, the real winners of K2
Very true!
And one dude descented this mountain on ski's..
Andrzej Bargiel💪🇵🇱
And now it has been traversed during the winters too
@@sarmadahmed2854 I believe you mean first winter accent. In mountaineering traverse means a sideways movement on the mountain. I've been following these winter attempts for years. I was so happy Sherpas were the ones to succeed.
@@Lev08e39M5 yes, winter ascent. Apologies for confusion, as im not well versed with these mountaineering terms
@@sarmadahmed2854 all good man, only reason I bring it up is because I used to think the same thing lol. Have a good day brother
I'm very surprised this documentary did not comment on the tragic events involving Art Gilkey attempted rescue, especially where he was commenmorated thereafter and those in the unfortunate future would be as well... rest all great climbers
I dont understand how they can stay on the trail when they are delerious up there?
I’m putting K2 on my bucket list
I’m putting you on my “upcoming funeral” list
@@ChickenJoe-tq6xd @Chick. Luck locating the body .
Jurek Kukuczka climbed it without oxygen, Apline style on new Polish route which has never been repeated since due to difficulty.
tell him to climb it in winter lol
Jerzy did it in semi alpine style, they had some gear/tent stocked below the large gully, but what a great accomplishment it was! RIP to his partner Tadeusz Piotrowski and of course Jerzy died on Lohtse in 89
Jerzy was amazing
Wolf Pack Hunter haha ! The man soloed all 14 peaks without supplemental oxygen alpine style . You dumb fuck and nobody can climb k2 in the winter -70 degrees temperature with snowfall and avalanches . Good luck with that .
@@BRITRANGER he made 3 first winter ascents on 8-thousends, Kangchenjunga for exemple, 8586m.
If he were alive, it (K 2 winter ascent) were happened a long time ago
Amazing type of people climbs this type of mountain. But they never conquer the mountain, only their inner selves.
yes man conquers nothing, the mountain allows a man to summit and hopefully return
dang, this is probably the closest thing to that "made in abyss" anime that actually exists
The documentary fails to mention how Compagnoni put Walter Bonatti and Pakistani Amir Mehdi's lives in danger to reach the summit before them. They were left for dead. Compagnoni should be stripped of this honor.
NatGeo should at least present all facts about the 1st summit. But then again, NatGeo is more concerned about face value than the facts!
Ed Viesturs' book on K2 talks a lot about that. Achille Compagnoni and Ardito Desio were indeed the villains. It was sad to hear that Amir Medhi would never go up another 8000m peak because of the severe frostbite. Walter Bonatti got his own revenge in my personal opinion.
Slomofogo so what it is is you are darkskinned person fearful of whiteskinned people, and for that You failed to even try Climbing up to the Top.
@Slomofogo You are a real POS.
Wasn't whitey a gangster who died recently?
This would never happen in out time to glorify 2 people who left 2 others of their own team to die. Should of been scrapped this docu and made about the real 2 heroes Walter bonatti and amir mehdi
I think summit k2 is actually the chillingly life in death house .
They say 1909 was the first attempt but Aleister Crowley was there in 1905 and got pretty high...
Does anyone know what time of year is best to climb?
Summer obviously. July most probably
Monsoon season wouldn't be advisable. But I think you would not have permission to climb then anyway.
www.k2climb.net/expguide/timeline.shtml
So here K2 4:53 is “3rd Pole” not Everest???
Love it 👍
Those green boots are bad juju.
If You Wanna Impressed People Climb The Mount Everest & You Wanna Impress Climbers So Climb The K2. And Then You Get Respect Forever.
I Touched The K2 More Than A 10+ Times ( I am not a Climber , Just Traveler ).
& From Askole ( Vellige , from where Climbers or Tourist Have To Walk Around 90KM , crossing lakes , rivers & Moving Baltoro Glacier ) around 10 days Walks.
K2 Cool As Hell.
Respect To All Climbers from my Pakistan 🇵🇰
I love these stories of people who do what I am not even slightly able or really interested in doing. I have Asthma, I don't like heights, and I don't like cold, and am a little lazy. But I can recognize and give credit to those who do. But the way, the Only person to climb all 8000 meter mountains w/o oxygen was a woman.
very brave
love how they are smoking pipes and wearing pith helmets in 1909 6:40 even while climbing and probing the ice 6:55
Maybe if they hadn't been smoking that damm pipe they wouldn't have ran out of matches
I wonder if it's possible to jump out of a high altitude airplane and parachute down to the summit or at least close by. Wing suit through the mountains would be extreme too.
@Jack Greb are you crazy commercial airplanes fly 31 to 38 thousand feet,k2 is only 28k feet.
Ricky Spanish
Commercial Airlines are travelling at 747mph or abouts to give them their lift. If they slow up they too start decending. At 9,000 meters the air pressure is less than a third of the hPa air pressure at ground level. So what speed would a parachutist be travelling at in air 2 thirds thinner? 150mph maybe? Or if 100mph. Try landing with humam legs at 8,808 meters on Everest at 100mph. At 5,500 meters the air is about half the hPa than at ground level. So does that mean at 5,000 meters the parachutist is decending twice as fast as at ground level?
Seems that the 1953 American expedition got left out. A small team, climbing in impeccable style nearly made the summit. The story of their struggle down the mountain is legendary. After this the 1954 seige of K2 seems rather weak.
No mention of Edmond Hillary the NZ climber and his Sherpa Tenzing, 1953 I believe, they made it top of Everest
When he says you are on your own; that's so true. It doesn't matter how much you pay; you've got to get your own self up , and back down.
My life is worth more than a mountain thrill
Is it really? What have you done with your life? At least those people did something that brought enjoyment and pleasure to them.
@@andyscrumifi I've done cooler shit than this. Nothing as physically demanding, but definitely cooler.
Boofer T. Washington like?
cool! theirs isn't. bye :)
@@andyscrumifi Perhaps actually having education, getting a successful job and having a family and having the brain to not risk their lives/letting their ego take over them, in order to climb a mountain?
So many people have summited Everest it is no longer a challenge, just follow the tourist path to the top. K2 on the other hand is a mountaineers mountain. No tourist trail to the top of this one. More people summit Everest in one season than have ever summited K2.
Please go summit Everest with a go-pro. Let's see your "no challenge" experience and your courage! Thanks, can't wait to see it!
Damn. Sherpa been getting killed helping our dumbasses for nearly a century.
@Saint Scanderbeg Yea... I didn't really mean US citizens, just inexperienced climbers. But I didn't articulate that well. Thank you, you make a great point. I still feel bad for the Sherpa tho, lol
I have watched more than 20 documentaries so far on K2 , the number of people dying on K2 is almost different in each. This one says out of 3 one dies. One said out of 4 one dies. There is another one which says out of 7 one dies.
As if they were made at different times.
I climbed K2. And K3 too.
what about K1
Complete training will summit you for K2. Askole
You are under my control
The introductory comment says a team from Italy were the first to scale the mountain in 1954. But Wikipedia says Frank Smythe mountaineer UK was the leader of the first successful expedition to climb Kamet (7,756 m) in 1931, at the time it was the highest peak yet climbed