How I Plow With My Ford 8n [[Dearborn 10-152]]
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- čas přidán 25. 01. 2021
- Plowing the garden with a Ford 8n can be a bit tricky. Especially with a two bottom plow. In my opinion the Ford 8n’s were made more for a single 16”, but they do well with double 12” in soil with out many rocks. My Dearborn 10-152 has 14” points. I probably should cut them down to the original 12” at some point. With a 2 bottom plow you have to constantly play with the lift. If you hit a hard spot or a wet spot you have to lift the plow a bit. If you do not respond quickly you can sink. As long as your plow is adjusted properly and you pay attention it will do well.
It has been a few years since I have been able to plow my gardens. Our winters have been so wet it was impossible. I am excited for this season now that I have it done. Plowing makes it so much easier to disc. As well as promotes growth. Last year it took me hours to get my gardens disced to my standards.
It is important to plow well before planting season. Here in NC I normally try and plow in December or January. It takes some time for Mother Nature to break down your plowed ground. The constant freezing and thawing breaks down the clumps created by plowing. I have plowed and immediately tried to disc it. It beats you to death and normally has a lot of dirt clots.
Plowing does wonders for your garden. It not only turns the soil, but breaks the ground deeper than your disc normally gets. This promotes root growth and helps with drainage. After 2 years of planting with out plowing I hope to never do it again. I was very fortunate to have a dry spell and be able to slip it in. Next year I will try and plow early December or November before the rains come.
Getting your plow set properly will make your job much easier and effective. Normally with a two bottom plow it takes a good bit of adjustment. You have to ensure both plows are running at the same depth. As well as cutting a even ditch. This will make your plow run much better. It is not hard to do it just takes a few minutes. To get a level ditch you will have to adjust with your tractor in a already cut ditch. Or you will have to drive the left side of your tractor up on a 6x6 board. This is due to the angle your tractor will be running on while plowing. To get a proper cut you have to run the right side of your tractor in the ditch of your previous cut.
Even if you do not have a for 8n it is the same process. No matter how big the plow or tractor. Adjust your plow properly and run the plow as deep as the tractor will comfortably take. With in Reason of course. If you put a double 12” plow on a 50 hp tractor you could sink the plow to the frame. This would make a very deep ditch and put your tractor at a very steep angle.
Speed is very important as well when plowing. This is something I don’t believe I mentioned in the video. You have to have enough speed to flip the dirt. If you go to slow it will roll right back over grass side up. On my Ford 8n first gear wide open throttle is just right. On a Ford 800 I like second gear wide open. First gear is a bit to slow.
I wish you the best of luck in your gardening endeavors. I hope this video will help you in some way. Even if you decide to do it a little different than I do. Thank you for taking the time to watch and read. I will see you in the garden! - Jak na to + styl
Thanks for the info. Grew up in the city and moving to the country. I have had enough of the rat race.
Appreciate the training sir!
There is a lever under the seat on the 8ns. That is to switch the 3 point from height control to draft control. In draft control the plow depth can be controlled by how hard the tractor is pulling.
I have tried to use my draft many times. For one reason or another it doesn’t work properly. I have had the top off and adjusted the linkages a few times. Things are badly worn and need to be overhauled. One day I will get around to it. Thank you for commenting and watching!
@@FishHuntCookTinker There is alot thats gotta be setup right in the top cover of the tractor for both position and draft control to work right. I would suggest rebuilding the toplink and trying it again. On my granddad's tractor we had to replace quite a bit and machine out and rebush components to get it right.
Tractor supply used to have shop manuals for these old tractors, I bought one there for an old Golden Jubilee I used to have, it shows all the internal adjustments to get your draft working properly, When it's properly adjusted, you don't have to constantly move your position lever, I wouldn't be afraid to dive into the hydraulic system, not too complicated. Dan and Rachel Gingell have excellent CZcams videos on that very thing, Good Video! Happy Plowing!!
Years ago I borrowed a manual and adjusted everything. Most of the linkages were badly worn. It helped some, but not greatly. Although I was much younger and knew way less then. Not that I am an expert now by any means. So who knows if I did it correctly. I probably should do it again one day. I have been holding off because I would like to rebuild the hydraulic pump as well. One of these days I will dive back into it. I have to get some other projects done first. Thank you for commenting and for watching!
They still do
U r the first person I’ve ever seen on here that does this the way I was taught
First video on how to plow I've seen and I needed to see it.Thank you!
Awesome video! I got 1950 8N the same double plow but good tires lol cuts like butter.
Plow float control lever under the seat makes plowing a lot easier.
Mine would if it did anything. I need to overhaul my hydraulics. Thanks for watching!
good vid i am 14 and i have a ferguson tea 20 and learning to plow, and i learned alot from it
That is awesome. I was about 14 when I started. If you know an older person who use to be a farmer or has a lot of experience. Learn all you can. I was fortunate to have family members I could turn to when I needed help or advice. Keep with it and thank you for watching!
@@FishHuntCookTinker thanks
I am watching this to learn how to plow with my ferguson to30
@@joelderek33 cool
You need to turn the draft lever under the seat from where ever it is to the other position. That way you don’t have to fool around with the depth , the draft control will raise and lower the plow to keep it in the ground where you set the stop on the raise and lower quadrant.
Thank you for the info. i have a ford 3500 and was going to use the two bottom plow this year for some food plots. Haven't used it yet and your video definitely helped out.
I am glad it helped you. Good luck with your plots. Thanks for watching!
It was good to see someone who knows what they used for years.I really enjoyed your video as I have done that years ago
I am glad you enjoyed it! Thank you for watching and commenting!
My father and grandfather farms with an 8N. Plow all day with 2-12's, no colters, but did have the tail wheel. It will make a big difference.
In dry dirt tire tread wear is not very noticeable but a slick spot will really standout & fluid in rear tires will make amazing difference in pulling ability
Nice job young man. Carry on the traditions. I'm always surprised at the amount of power those old n series tractors put out at even low rpm. Love em...even without brakes😁
Thank you and I will do my best! They put out the power for their size. They really are not much larger than a lawnmower. I have been through my breaks multiple times. New seals the works. Last a year or two. Thanks for watching!
You don't need brakes just drop the anchor (plow)
Yes I plow my garden I use a Ford 3000 diesel tractor I didn't know how to get started thanks for the tip of starting in the middle of your garden
I’m glad you found it helpful!
My dad bought a 1949 8n with 2 14 inch plows, 6ft disc harrow and 2 row cultivators all DEARBORN new in 1949. I learned to farm on this tractor and those pieces of equipment. He added a bottom plow to the Dearborn and pulled it behind a 420 John deere and a 2010 JohnDeere and Retired pulling it behind a 7000 Ford. Glad to say I just bought a 1949 8n that looks and runs like new and found and bought a 2 14 Dearborn plow for $225. Also got the 8n for $2300. Good video and pull that other little lever under the seat forward and you will have draft control.
That’s a good price on the 8n. The draft on mine doesn’t do anything anymore. Needs some TLC. Thanks for commenting and watching!
My wife’s 84 year old dad passed last December and we inherited his 8N. It will soon go to a place for restoration. It’s nice to see your tractor in operation!
I am sorry to hear that. I thought about restoring mine, but it was my Great Grandfathers. All the dents and scrapes have a story. I just can’t do it. He farmed with it for many years. Even had it upside down in a creek one time.
@@FishHuntCookTinker My wife remembers her dad using it when she grew up. We’re not doing much to it, just having it gone over and put back into working order. I can’t wait to hear it run again!
I’ve got a Ford 641 workmaster I plow my gardens and a few others around, I have a Ford 2 bottom 14” trip plow, and a 16” Ford trip, the tractor pulls both great, but I find myself using the 16” single bottom mostly. You never have to fight the tractor and I can plow faster. So it usually works out about the same as using the two bottom. I run fluid in my tires, it’s a big difference!
I have been thinking about getting a single bottom plow for years. The past few years it has been so wet I couldn’t even think about plowing. Therefore I never did. I may try to find one this year. It would be much easier on the tractor. I run fluid in my tires as well. They are just worn slap out. I will try and find a set soon. Thank you for watching!
Hey man enjoying the Channel. Keep up the good work!
I really appreciate that. I am glad you enjoy the videos. I am trying to get better at editing. Hopefully they just get better from here. Thank you for watching!
Thank you for sharing !!
Putting coulters on that plow would make it pull a bit easier, those discs cut the turf in front of the plow shares. The ditches you refer to are actually furrows.
That probably would help. I have never ran a plow with them. For whatever reason it is hard to find a old one with them still on. Thank you for watching!
Liked the music, nice video.
Thanks for the good information.
No problem. Thank you for watching!
Thanks for the heads up !
Thank you for watching!
Thanks! Learned a lot!
Thank you for watching!
These tractors are so simple that if you can't get it started than you shouldn't of baught it.. Gas. Air. Spark is all it needs unless it's frozen..
They are very simple old tractors. They can be finicky at times, but if you maintain them. They about always crank. Thanks for watching!
Great video! Thanks!
Thank you!
Those old Dearborn plows were sure tough, but getting harder to repair because of lack of parts, around my parts people rarely plow anymore, maybe every 3 years. Mostly tillers now, I’ve got a 5’ tiller I run on my new John Deere tractor, but I really don’t care for it. It makes the dirt really fine and it packs like concrete. I like the plow and disc better. Then I just lay my rows off with my old front time tiller. I’m a little old school 😂
I have heard that about tillers a lot. Everyone I have asked about them says they do great till a good hard rain. I thought about getting one a few years back. I think I’ll stick with what I have. Thanks for watching!
Thanks!
Adding ballast to your rear tires will give you more traction and help stop the tires from spinning.
Thank you for watching and commenting! I have my rear tires loaded with water and antifreeze. This definitely helps. I don’t know if they make wheel weights for a 8n? I have never seen them before on a tractor. I know most of the farmalls have them. I really just need to break down and get new tires. One of these days I will. Thanks again.
They did make wheel weights for the N series. Ballast was the most common weight. The pie wheel weights from the later model tractors will fit also.
If you make 2 passes down the center, turning the soil out in opposite directions, and then switch and turn in for 2 rounds you will be able to maintain level furrows and wont have to worry about throwing dirt in the wrong direction. This is called a 4 pass start. its a little time consuming, but makes for a nice finished product.
every time I break a couple acres with our old single bottom plow I just think, "how the hell did they do hundreds of acres like this 50 years ago....?"
As always I’m in a hurry. Normally I wait around to late in the year. Then I am scrambling around trying to get it plowed while it is dry enough. I normally don’t worry about it then level it when I disc. Definitely not optimal, but just how it normally goes. I love hearing the old timers talk about how they farmed all this land with a 8n and a farmall. It is amazing how times have changed! Thank you for commenting and watching!
Nice work I'm working with a 1110 compact I have a Ford single plow and trying to get all the links to make it all work together great vidio
I hope you get it going. Thanks for watching and commenting!
If you will put your sway bars on, your plow will run straighter and not wonder back and forth.
we had a wing nut, to set the depth on the Hydralic control lever
nice video!
When your done with the plow every year put some old grease or used Moyer oil on the moldboards the keep them from rusting polished plow pulls way easier.
Great video
interesting! i grew up and as teen, spent many hours breaking ground with this turning plow an another version parabolic “disc” plow. this turning plow is missing a disk cutter in front of each that.cut int the ground in front of each plow to the depth of each. greatly lowered the load, reduced fuel consumption and gave the turned over ground a more uniform appearance.
I picked up my plow very used and cheap. I had to rebuild most everything. It didn’t have any of the other parts with it. For now it gets it done. Maybe one day I will find or make the rest. Thank you for watching and commenting!
Appreciate this video! Im looking to plow for the first time next year. I’ll be using my paps Ford 800 (idk the exact specifics unfortunately) using an almost exact replica of what you have except it has discs on it as well.
That is awesome to hear. I wish you the best of luck. Thank you for watching!
What about the draft control lever?
Forgot to tell you to adjust the entire plow right or left by moving the cross bar on the plow so the heal of the front plow shear is in line with the inside of your furrow tire. This might require moving the tire too. Good luck. Once the plow is set properly it will pull easy and straight behind.
you have good tires and loaded you can pull 2 12's all day long and doesn't matter how hard. It'll make it work
When I first started out. I would borrow a family members 52 8n. Had really good tires on it. Night and day difference in it and mine pulling the same plow. Thanks for watching and commenting!
hello my friend, the optimal rear tire pressure for your tractor is at 12-15 psi, try it and you will be amazed. We waitng to see more of your videos.
I need to get a low pressure gauge for loaded tires. For now my rule of thumb is to pick up the disc and make sure they don’t look flat. Thank you for commenting and watching!
Set draft wond do that. 8n wi pull 3-14 if set right
No snow in January ???
How far south are you ?
If you plow from the middle every year you will have a high middle because your throwing the dirt to the middle and the youll have lower outer edges Not a low spot or a dich as you call in the middle.
Nice 8n! My dad got a 2 bottom Dearborn plow like yours, I got to use it in the garden last spring, but that’s about it. I had a lot of trouble getting traction. I don’t know if they make wheel weights for these tractors, I know dad doesn’t want to put fluid in the tires.
Without fluid in the rear tires it would definitely be difficult to get traction. If you could find a single 16” it would do a lot better. Thanks for watching!
Make sure you have the plow angle adjusted correctly. Having too much angle for depth will cause a plow to pull excessively hard. Drive your tractors left rear wheel up on a block of wood that is the depth you want to plow. 6" is plenty deep for a garden btw. This will simulate how the unit is sitting while plowing. Next adjust the plow so it is level side to side by turning the adjusters on your 3pt lift arms. Next step adjust front to back angle so the front tip of plow shares are touching the ground, and the rear of the landsides are about 1/4" off the ground.
There are videos on YT showing this procedure as well. I plow my garden with a garden tractor and single bottom 10" Brinly plow at 6" depth, and I can turn sod with very little traction issue by setting it up the way I described so an N series tractor should be able to pull a 2-14" with a little fine tuning.
you need to put the coulters back on the plows, makes them much easier to pull and you will have a nice furrow.
What you see is what I have. Didn’t come with any when I bought it and have never ran across any so far. I’ll find some one of these days. Thank you for watching!
This type of tractor only has a bit over 20 horsepower at the draw bar. A general rule of thumb is that a tractor can handle one inch of plow width for every draw bar horse power. You are expecting a bit too much from this tractor but getting away with it.When you changed your plow shares from the twelve inch shares it came with to fourteen inch plow shares, unless you adjusted the plow frame you might not have gained that much more plowing width. You have one plow cutting 14 inches in front, but the one behind it should be over lapping that furrow by two inches. In other works you are plowing 26 inches at a time, not 28. That is to your advantage.
Be careful adding weight to these tractors. We managed to snap an axle after filling the rear tires, never did it again after getting the axle welded.
One suggestion: there is a high school girl that did what I think was a project video for FFA on tuning up these engines for plowing. She hit every step we used to do each spring. If you can find her it is well worth watching. The big things are like you mentioned, be sure the tractor is ready to work, but she also shows how to advance the timing to get some more power. If you haven't had the head off your tractor, these flat head engines do carbon up some thing bad and a good head off clean up with a valve job really helps their performance.
I have never heard that rule of thumb before. It definitely goes with what I have seen. I definitely am pushing my little 8n to the limit. One of these days I will find a single 16. If nothing else just to see the difference it makes. Years ago when I rebuilt the plow I planned to cut the 14” points to 12”. It is all but impossible to find 12” points. I honestly forgot all about it till I did the video. Unfortunately I use it once a year and forget about it.
If I have the time this winter I plan to go through the engine and lift completely. It is starting to show some signs of its age. Thank you very much for commenting. I appreciate the advice and you taking the time to give it!
The Dearborn 2-14 plow was the original plow for this tractor. And can pull that plow all day. Having the tractor properly ballasted, engine tuned up setting the plow up correctly are keys to making it work. This was a good demonstration on how to do it.
@@farmboy971 I'm not sure this is entirely correct. I think (but have no proof at hand) that the original Dearborn plow for this tractor was a 2-12. That little bit of difference doesn't sound like much, but on this small tractor it was a lot. My grandfather owned an 800 acre farm in the 1930's. Hired tractor work. The first tractor they bough was a 9N in 1939 and bought the next 5 the dealership could get right after it. One man could plow 10 acres a day in a ten hour day with this tractor - 4-5 times what a man and two teams of horses could. My grand dad, three sons and two son-in-laws were making their living off that farm. Made sense to have those tractors. The 2-14 plow may have been the standard plow when the 8N came out- it had more draw bar horsepower that the 9N.
Last point - soil type makes a huge difference when talking about how big a plow a tractor can handle. Around here it is a clay/loam and can be heavy to till. I've worked some more sandy soil and it is a lot easier to plow.
@@cdjhyoung the 9n and 2n tractors would have been sold with a Ferguson plow and other Ferguson Implements I know 12 and 14” bottoms were offered. They may have offer 10” plows but where I am at. I haven’t seen any that small. The Dearborn line didn’t officially start until around the introduction of the 8N in late 47. Most of what I find in the Dearborn line is 14”. I grew up in western MN in sandy loam to loamy clay soils with some rocks. The N series was popular In That area. My grandpa bought his first one in 48 and traded for a new one again in 52. The neighbors had a 9n and 8ns. Harry Ferguson was a real genius with the 3 point and how he made a smaller tractor handle a plow that by conventional thought of the day needed a larger frame tractor.
I have lived a lot of years near now Fargo ND in the heart of the red River valley. There is very little history of the N series here likely because of the heavy clay. The higher hp and larger frame Farmalls Case, and John Deere where dominant here. And eventually the 4wd. Steiger started just north of here.
@@farmboy971 I think your knowledge of the history of the Dearborn series of equipment is better than mine. Was the Dearborn line of products a reaction to the fracturing of the Ferguson/Ford hand shake deal? I have seen one 2x10 inch Ferguson plow at an auction, but have never owned or used one.
I agree with you about the genius of Ferguson and his hitch, but it was the whole integrated tractor as well. Other makers made small tractors, but they just didn't work as well, or as easily as the N series Fords. The basic secret of the Ferguson hitch lain in the coupling of the third (upper) link to the tractor by way of a heavy spring. It was strong enough to keep tillage tools in the ground, but had enough give to let the implement spring up if it hit a solid enough obstruction, saving the tool from damage. The hitch also attached to the tractor in such a way that in converted some of the draft of the implement into additional down force on the driving wheels.
Recently I was contemplating some of the add on equipment made for the N series tractors, specifically the auxiliary transmission like the Sherman. I find it a bit strange that the N series tractors were not the first to offer an on the go down shift for more torque. The technology was there in the transmission of the Model T Ford with its planetary gear system. That transmission operated in the same horsepower range as these Ford tractors, so the transfer of the gearing should or could have been relatively straight forward. It just surprises me no one thought to combine the two.
I know nothing about tractors and even less about farming/plowing/discing/harrowing, ...... but I am a very good mechanic. I purchase a tired but unmolested 1954 NAA (Jubilee identical). I have two acres I want to take care of and plant a garden here in the southwest. I'm fixing up the "Jubilee" (its easier to call it that as then everyone out here knows what it is even though technically its a NAA) and have fixed the the hydraulics and running. It has "draft control". Does the 8N? Does draft control really works so you don't have to have your hand as you demonstrated so well for when the tractor bogs down? ANY advice would be helpful as I know nothing. Which implement should I try to purchase first? Why? My land has never been plowed. It was an avocado orchard for 100 years and now it is just land. It is pretty hard and doesn't look like all that beautiful soil you guys have with that deep brown color. I just can't imagine a blow like yours would cut into my soil. Do I plow first or disc first? Again, anything would help. Thank you.
You need the colters on the plow, pulls a lot easier.
I'm starting a garden in a new field; dirt is packed and poor for gardening. If I "turn it out" each year, and then bring in heavy amounts of compost/manure each year and pile it down the middle, will that help to spread it out?
It would spread it out, but only the width of the plow every year you plowed. I would dump it out in multiple places. Then disc it in. Just my two cents. Thank you for watching and commenting!
Just get some rotted bales, usually you can get em for free. Throw it out on your field then disk it
Add weight, the rear bottom is too high, do you feel the lugs in the tires are too wide ? Family Farmed for years with 2 bottom plow with the 8n . Also had the ford 860 with liquid filled tires and wheel weights what a beast .
The 800 series are good old tractors. They have a ton of power over the 8n. Probably one of my favorite tractors.
We have same tractor as yours
. 😉
There are a lot of the old fords around. Thanks for watching!
also sway bars are needed. that way it won't hit your overrun clutch
I have always been told not to use sway bars with a plow or disc. It keeps the implement from pushing your tractor to the side. Causing the tractor to lose traction and drive much harder. Not saying I’m right it is just how I was taught. This is how a old farmer explained it to me. I normally always take the overrun clutch off before I plow or disc. Thankfully my plow frame doesn’t stick out far enough to hit the clutch. A lot of the old plows will. Thank you for commenting and watching!
@@FishHuntCookTinker the sway bars just keep it steady that shouldn’t make it lose traction.
And your tractor doesn't have a high low Sherman transmission?
Unfortunately it does not. I wish it did. Maybe one day I will convert it and get a tiller. I think I would go with the Howard if I did. Thank you for watching!!
So you turned it out?
Yes I try and change it up every year. I was told that that was how you kept your garden even. If you continue to turn it in the same direction it will eventually move the dirt that direction. Out every yet you get a ditch in the middle. In every year you get a mound in the middle. I don’t know how true that is, but it is what I have always done. Thank you for watching!
What do you call that kind of tool?
A double bottom plow. If it only has one point it’s a single. Thanks for watching!
Also called a turning plow
Where is your tail wheel?
It is long gone. It did not have one when I bought it. It was in rough shape. I had to replace a few parts and weld up the ones I couldn’t find. I don’t think I have ever even seen a 12”or 14” with one still attached. I know some do, but seems like it is the first thing to go. Thank you for watching!
Discs,counters,furrow wheel depth gauge /setting oFor your left control, It would be good to reas up on Fergyson' system,because it might be a ford but the 3 point system isn't,
A lot of usefu info, things I didn’t think of
I have a 8n they will pull 3 14 inch breaking plow tough machines
I don’t think mine would do it as is. Maybe with some new tires and a rebuild. It’s about time for some in depth TLC. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Up in the air
3 - 14's , you must have some sandy loam soil
Couple terms you should learn: "furrow" "dead furrow"
Dead deer in the intro. Classy
You see the name of the channel, right?
If your tractor has a differential lock use that otherwise you are going to suffer on grassy unplowed lawns!
Differential on 8N?
Theres no sod cutter disc's on it........
They were not on it when I got it. Never have taken the time to find any or make some. That’s what you get when you buy cheap I guess. Thanks for watching!
you'd be wasting your time with used tires. you should just get new ones with fresh traction
You are probably right. I will probably get a new set this winter. Thanks for watching!
One reason your plow pull so hard is because it's Rusty R than all get-out why don't you grease it and keep it greased so the bottoms are nice and shiny that is a very piss-poor picture that you are putting on