Yamaha FJ-09/MT-09 Tracer/FZ-09 Coolant Change DIY and my thoughts on Coolant Selection
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- čas přidán 10. 04. 2017
- A video detailing the procedure for draining and refilling your Yamaha FJ-09 cooling system. According to the Yamaha Service Manual this needs to be performed every 2 years regardless of mileage. Coolant needs to be changed on this schedule to prevent the inhibitor package in the coolant from losing its effectiveness, and therefore allowing deposits to form and corrosion to take place.
Skip to 21:45 for coolant change procedure.
You can find links to all Science_Biker's DIY Videos on the FJ-09 forum, at FJ-09.org - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Skip to 21:45 if you want to go directly to coolant change procedure.
Thanks Mate.. all those yapping and ranting.. what a waste..
Watching your video carefully, I noticed you installed your coolant reservoir wrong. During the removal of the reservoir you can clearly see in the video the plastic collar that falls to the floor accidentally, came from the back of the hole. When you installed it you put the plastic collar in front of the hole and the actual reservoir behind the bracket. I'm pretty sure this is why you had such a hard time installing the reservoir. Thanks for the video it was very informative.
I'm a FJ 09 owner and found your videos very interesting and helpful. I saw all of them and I'd like to thank you.
Hope to see in the future some other, such forks maintenance and valve clearance.
Thanks for the knowledge on coolants, however the actual procedure you're showing is more complicated than it needs to be. Just drain via the drainbolt you show, with cap off, then fill with distilled water. Turn on engine til the fan kicks in (221f approx) so that it circulates through the engine, then wait for it to cool down a little then drain out the distilled water. THAT'LL TAKE CARE of all the remnants of coolant in the pipes instead of having to take them all apart. After you've drained the distilled water, which will now be almost clear, fill using your Pentofrost and call it good. If you're paranoid about still having coolant in the system, do the distilled water drain procedure twice.
Julian UK but what if theres distilled water left in all those tubes, the mixture won't be 50/50 no?
50/50 ? this isn't a test lab. so what if you're at 45/55. its only distilled water.
@omgzam fill it up any excess will be flushed out when it gets hot.
Thanks, the video helped immensely to get things back together properly without taking reference photos, etc.
Thank you. I just followed your video and was able to do it myself on my 2017 FZ09.
Excellent video , very helpful. Many thanks for sharing.
also. . . these procedure works with the following Yamaha bikes; FZ-09, FJ-09, MT-09, MT-09 Tracer and XSR 900. Smart move on you filling up reservoir before mounting. Awesome!
This was a wealth of knowledge!!!
Great informative video, it also helps minimized strain using motorized screwdriver for the hexes after hand screwing hexbolts. Great job!!!
Motorized tools are good, but when dealing with aluminum parts i like hand tools as well.. If you cross thread something, you're gonna wish you didnt have those motorized tools.
@@pepecorleone9021 you don’t have to remove the screws fully from the clamps, so no worry of cross threading. And bolts can all be started by hand and tightned using motor wrench like my 3/8” milwaukee. Just makes the job more enjoyable.
Great video, extremely helpful especially the info on which hoses not to bother removing. Also like that you state what hex key sizes. Many thanks 👍
Good job, thanks. Will save me lots of headache.
I just did mine (for the second time). Remove and clean out the reservoir...and reinstall empty. Drain bike using the drain hole...flush with distilled water....refill using a 60/40 or 55/45 mix. The reason is that some of the flushing distilled water remains in the bike. Doesn't take long. Refill the reservoir.
To place back the coolent resovoir is pain in the ass! I tried that before and thanks for this vid.
I'm having trouble with the top 3mm reservoir bolt, it keeps spinning freely when I loosen it. I can also feel the collar spinning behind it, any tips to get it off?
I hope you do a video on valve adjustment next.
how close did you fill the coolant to the cap? i left about 2 inches of space from the top. is that enough space?
hey guys, its time to change the coolant... so the manual doesn't says specific type of it (g11 g12 etc...) so i I bought febi g11 concetrate , agree with all manual instructions (ethylen glykol and corrosion inhibitors for aluminum egines). Is this probuct safe to use for yamaha mt07 2014???
Greetings. Great video. I appreciate the unedited, detailed footage. Do you think there would be any value in doing a cursory drain and flush with distilled water prior to refilling/replacing the coolant per the service manual? Thanks again for the video.
Jesse Fitzgerald As long as you are dealing with a well maintained bike from day one that should not be necessary. If the bike has not been cared for or has been sitting a while then you might want to consider that.
Thanks bro ✌🏻
it seems like if you only drain via the water pump bolt without the hassle of reservoir and pipes you would be changing %90 of the coolant. isnt it good enough?
Can I use Propylene glycol based coolant and what is the difference?
Wondering if the blue Toyota coolant for the FRS would work 🤔 I’ve got that at work lol
Torque on the drain plug, was that a pull and two jerks, or two pulls and one jerk?
yeah i torqued mine with the arm it's a bit tighter but tight is always good.....
how much refrigerant fluid enters?
excellent work and video.
On 2014 FZ09 manual does say to flush the cooling system with clean tap water.
Better to use distilled water. Any tap water you add will leave about 15% in there, and the minerals in the water cause corrosion.
Thank you this shit helped me a ton and I got it done without any fuck ups
all i did extra was on the refill on the radiator start the bike and let it idle it level will drop and i pump the coolant hoses with hand it burps and the level drops. then i fill and close the top.
is there a kind of coolent u need ?
is car coolant the same as motorcycle one? I have a blue colour ethylene glycol coolant should this be okay to go into my yamaha mt07? Pls help
Anti freeze has become complicated . You can’t just grab the car antifreeze anymore. You must avoid nitrites, borates, silicates and phosphates. They damage the water pump. Absolutely no 2-eha, which is 2-ethylhexanoic acid, which eats up silicone and plastic gaskets. And looking at the jug won't tell you half of this stuff. The bottles that say, compatible with all other antifreeze, are actually the worst for motorcycles. Best to go with Honda, Suzuki, or Kawasaki brand antifreeze. Wrong stuff will shorten the life of the water pump.
Good video with a little too much tech garb in the first half. We know we need to change the coolant. Also that was coolant smoking off your pipes, not dirt.
The coolant on the exhaust was evaporating, not the dirt, hope you didn't inhale that :)
It was from both.
Why didn't you use distilled water to clean the system instead of taking off the hoses? I skipped into the actual procedure
i some times run the engine for a few seconds, just to remove all the water, don't know if doing good or bad
Unless you run the engine long enough to get the coolant hot enough for the thermostat to open, you're not removing all the coolant in the engine block. At which point, if you do that you're risking engine damage. I would not recommend that practice. If you feel the need, much better to do a proper flush procedure to remove all the old coolant.
no no, with engine cold. and remove the reservoir and unplug all hoses. and then turn engine on for a few seconds and turn off, just to remove some coolant witch is in some parts of the engine.. Don't know if i'm making myself clear
nice hat buddy
effin collars... lol. I had the same problem, I came here to figure out if I was putting them in the right place. Even hard to tell with the Factory Service Manual.. lol
My only concern is that Pentofrost is a 50/50 mix, while Yamacool is 60/40. Any thoughts?
Don’t use Pentofrost Coolant in your motorcycle. It contains phosphates that are harmful to the seals in your cooling system.
@@jakeuncaged5675 Thanks. Is there an affordable alternative to Yamacool?
@@ironmaiden8625 I use Engine Ice HP in mine. It’s not really an inexpensive alternative but you only need to change it every two years or 16k miles.
@@jakeuncaged5675 Thanks bud. I use Engine Ice in my dirt bikes.
Anti freeze has become complicated . You can’t just grab the car antifreeze anymore. You must avoid nitrites, borates, silicates and phosphates. They damage the water pump. Absolutely no 2-eha, which is 2-ethylhexanoic acid, which eats up silicone and plastic gaskets. And looking at the jug won't tell you half of this stuff. The bottles that say, compatible with all other antifreeze, are actually the worst for motorcycles. Best to go with Honda, Suzuki, or Kawasaki brand antifreeze. Wrong stuff will shorten the life of the water pump.
Run a little bit of compressed air through the system and it will blow all the Coolant out
This vid is chaos
You went hell in on this video lol.
Wow, lots of info but can be done in time warp in under 10 min. About the easiest procedure you can perform.......literally!
And.....OMG, can't understand why people don't put radiator guards on there CP3 engines, even cheap one's off ebay??? Guarantee cheaper than new oem radiator!
the reservoir was a pita!!
Yeah, that it is.
@@sciencebiker9519 lol I didn't have as many issues as you one that one,but that could be because on my small girl hands. In most cases, I have issues with having to work leverage to my advantage, but sometimes having smaller hands can be an advantage :P -Sarfyna
Why are all these companies still too ignorant to put a proper drain valve on a bike? Even an aluminum nipple to attach hosing, anything is better so you can cleanly drain into a safe area. The splatter war is REAL YA'LL IM TELLIN YOU!
LOL, it really is! When I opened the drain bolt on my FZ, I was almost running for cover, thank for the first time that I always have to wear glasses, It flew EVERYWHERE! Good thing I also had the correct protective gloves on,..* cough**cough* (as is advised in the service manual) and I just pulled the bolt free, soo I could save myself an even messier cleanup
Pepe they know that 97% of motorcyclists are never going to change the radiator fluid. I have never bought a used motorcycle yet that had ever been changed. Look at the brake fluid and see how dirty it is, and you can tell how much maintenance has been done on a bike.
Lmao like ur Iowa state t shirt
Bro needs an outline. That was some wandering shit
Your video needs to be edited greatly. We don't need to see every bolt being undone etc. By breaking every hose joint to get a few drops out is wasting time & tempting future water leaks where a leak didn't exist.
Just remove the left side hose from the radiator and bend it down low.
That's most of the coolent out in one hose removal. Fill with fresh water & run till hot. Let it cool and drop the same hose again & refill . Repeat once more & your water will be clear. Then add coolent as per the video.
Mustangdude I agree with not undoing every single hose for the reasons you state. Here’s a thought; get a rubber or cork stopper the size of the radiator filler neck, and drill a hole through it roughly the size of a blower attachment for an air compressor. Remove the drain bolt from the water pump housing and let drain as normal. Once all the “low hanging fruit” has drained, put the stopper in place of the radiator cap, and while holding it firmly in place with one hand, insert the blow gun into the hole in the stopper, and pressurize the system, which should force most of the remaining fluid out of the drain hole.
31:12...…..Your suppose to torque that drain nut to 7 foot pounds num nuts.
well i torqued mine with the arm until very tight. took it for a run then let it idle till fan kicks in no leaks
num nuts...not everything needs to be torqued to factory spec....
okay waiting on a comment to blow my mind...fire away
I'm sorry, but I find this video funny not helpful, but at least you tried buddy. Filling the reservoir with the funnel, but the rad without it, coolant burning on the pipes, overfilling the coolant everywhere, and removing all the hoses without any reason and without any flash! (Palmface)
If you have time to read "WAR AND PEACE", then this is for you. I aged thirty years just from watching this. I have read Darwins' The Origin Of Species", and That seemed less arduous.
45 minutes long bro
You really have no idea what you are doing hahahaha
Madeulook If you didn't find the video helpful, then you're not part of the audience this was intended for.
Science Biker nobody should be using this as a guide. I find it quite entertaining watching morons stumbling their way through shit they know nothing about
Neither did your dad but you still got here
Decent video but did we really have to sit there and watch all of the coolant drain, you couldn't have sped up the video or skipped that? The whole video could have been a lot quicker, for example the hoses you said not to do, just cut those clips out. I'm sure there's others like me who are very frustrated trying to work on their bikes and don't feel like sitting through nonsense, don't take this as me being rude lol I'm just giving you some viewer feedback.
Jesus christ man. All that big brain talk for 5 minutes and you cant even use a funnel lmfao
and then you buy such bull shit from such guys