The Problem with Nikon Mirrorless...
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- čas přidán 3. 02. 2024
- This Issue needs to be fixed. Anything you would add?
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@Matt Granger - the AF issue that you mentioned is common with every Canon and even Sony cameras as well. It’s a general mirrorless issue not specific to Nikon. Check Duade Paton’s video on this issue in Canon system.
The trick here is to move your camera and focus closer to a larger subject which might not be a bird. Then again focus on the bird, it works 99% of the time.
Z9 is an Amazing Camera there is nothing like it on the market currently. Perhaps Nikon should release Z90/Z500 soon which has same AF as Z9.. that will allow lot of people to purchase lower end APSC version 😊
The even better option is to just turn the manual focus ring getting it closer to the bird, then the cam will find it.
@@MikeHellerthere is a near and far autofocus
I solved this problem by setting my af-on button to single or wide area small then the shutter/primary focus to auto area . With the af on I can have the camera focus exactly where I want and the auto-area in the shutter button can do all the guess work .
I also think it’s very important Nikon gives us the option of assigning subject detect options to buttons .
This helps but I have seen tests and even the smallest point autofocus would see past the bird, this effected all camera brands but mainly nikon. I have a Sony A1 and still just use the smallest point autofocus for all my bird photography other than flight shots, I just feel like I can't rely on wide focus areas
We should not have to do a focus mode dance to have the modes work. With my Z6II I do a focus mode dance with my function buttons, but I still had to manually rack back with my Z100-400mm lens with some subjects. My Z8 focus modes are much better but I agree with Matt about Nikon should make that firmware change. All the Exspeed 6 Nikons would benefit as well as the Exspeed 7 bodies.
That doesn't always work for me. The single point AF point sometimes doesn't seem to want to look closer than where it is.
this, I don't trust eye tracking at all. 99% of the time I'n using single point af and the last 1% is manual
@@KurtisPape exactly - I have been trying single point to "fix" it and it often doesn't work, I have to manually rack my focus forward.
The epitome of positive criticism. You find issues, provide a solution and move on. But you stay with and appreciate your suff. Very professional.
Been watching your channel since "That Nikon Guy" started way back!👍
The Fro would cry, complain then switch brands.🤣
@@oatsgoats39 The point is, there is NO perfect camera. If there was such a thing, I guess the entire world would use it.
You can switch but my guess is that it too will have some type of issue. Then switch again? I guess it's ok if money isn't important. Becoming a good photographer is not just pushing 1 button and voila.
Yeah and good point.
He makes a suggestion and it's up to Nikon to implement this suggestion.
Now on to doing some business.
100% truth especially about Fro. LOL
I miss "That Nikon Guy" !
Hello Matt, I did the same trip in July, less cold and less rain. I did amazing shots using two old DSLRs. Iceland is amazing.
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In the firmware, and when it appears on the menu, they could also add an interval distance for how much the camera should "retract" the focus point. For example, pull back 5, 10, 15, or 20 metres to a new starting point from which to move forward to find the subject. It might ease the load on the processor as it would allow it to work within a smaller range, and likely this would reduce the electrical demand on the battery. Good work on our part on sussing this out.
I use af-on button like a single point. When the camera don't find the subject, I push the button to find it. Immediately the camera select the subject one time is on focus.
Best regards!
The ultimate professionals at all level. Thanks for keep all content clear and concise. I am still shooting DSLR still waiting for the mirrorless camera that meet all my requirements. Keep up the great job
I have partly moved to mirrorless but at heart I will never leave DSLR. It still hits all the boxes for me
You are a very good teacher. You have been passing on knowledge for so many years and your tests are a pleasure to watch. Good photographer too. Regards :)
This is definitely true Matt. I missed a lot of shots because of this when I first got my Z8. I usually just point the camera at the ground below the subject and it focuses, then I can acquire focus on the bird. That's quicker for me than trying to fumble around for the focus ring or a recall button.
Hey Jim, yeah I often do this too, but it really shouldn't be needed, especially when the cameras are SO capable in almost every other way.
@@mattgranger I agree. I wasn't making excuses for Nikon. I was just throwing out another alternative as a work around.
I do the same, sometimes I use the Recall button but normally I do the focus to the ground approach.
I have a Sony A1 and still use the smallest autofocus area for bird photography, only just started trusting bird eye AF, but for a year I didn't use it because it would pick up on tree knots, ears etc. With 4 years using mirrorless it comes naturally for me to close focus and pre-focus near the subject so I rarely get into the situation my autofocus is seeing past the subject and I can't pick it up, all that aside it still does catch me out from time to time
Well on Canon and Sony you don't need to "beat around the ground" to get accurate focus. Nikon Z AF sucks big time.
While the Nikon DSLRs were the best for AF
Agreed. I often find myself tilting the lens downwards to a closer focus point then look at the subject to focus. I like your recall button hack, will set it up.
There's a technical reason why MILC have this issue. The masked on-sensor PDAF pixels have a limited geometry vs the discrete PDAF sensors on DSLRs. This limits their ability to properly detect both the phase differential and phase direction when the subject under the PDAF pixels is far outside of focus. Essentially the camera is blind to the subject, and this blindness is indistinguishable to the camera vs a scenario where there's no subject under the PDAF pixels. This geometry issue is worst at long focal lengths, where the phase differentials are greatest relative to the exit pupil distance of those lenses. Your proposed solution is reasonable, although it may interfere in situations where there's no subject and the camera pays a time penalty racking through focus searching for a subject. Rather than performing this automatically I think a button to initiate it will probably yield the best balance between a solution to the issue and not breaking other AF scenarios.
could that also explain the rather poor AF performance of an Z7ii on low light compared to Nikon DSLR e.g. D8xx?
@@juergenbaumann8817 yes low light performance is awful on z6ii / 7ii if you don't have at least f1,8 lens (you have to shoot it wide open, because it doesn't open up the aperture like dslr when focusing). Plus there is no flash assist grid from flash, which is really useful when photographing low light events...
When my lens is already focused beyond the subject I point down at the ground or something close by and get it to focus on that quickly and then back to the subject and it grabs the subject more easily. Your plan for a programmable distance to refocus sounds very good.
It shoukd be standard on all cameras at this point
Well said sir! Great tip on using the Lens Function Button to pull focus back for the don't see anything issue. Thanks.
Totally agree Matt. I sometimes wonder if the focusing could be helped when the Z9 is confused if it reduced its aperture and so increased its depth of field in certain focussing situations. The viewfinder is now capable of brightening the image for the photographer. Increased DOF could also help the photographer find his subject quicker though the sensor will have less light to work with
For this particular problem I would suggest a "bi-directional" focus rack. If it starts at the "near end", then when it hits a limit at the "far end", then immediately reverse the focus direction and continue until finds a valid subject in focus, or gets back to where it started.
I find this happens with my Fujifilm H2S sometimes. I use a mode that allows manual focus while in autofocus. Focus recall button is also very useful. Yes, you are spot on. Seems that the processor could make focus steps to reacquire focus.
Good one matt. Thanks for letting everyone know about this issue.
I've definitely encountered it on my Zf, same problem, same fix. While I haven't been trying to shoot things that it really interfered with, it would definitely be nice to see fixed.
Just program a button for focus recall... or for AF-ON with a small area... will focus on the closest object it can find.
I have seen it even with stuff like the horizon using a single point: it's foggy, my Zf could not find focus and my D750 did it immediately. I did not have the Z8 with me so I don't know if it will be better. I believe your solution is very good. I have not seen Nikon's code, so I am not sure how easy is to add that logic. One issue is that the Nikon system is comparably slow going from closer focus to infinity compared to Sony and Canon so maybe they try and it was counterproductive most of the time. Finally, to underscore Matt's final point, I used to do a lot of Dance photography and people loved my results because I was able to nail the face and peek action most of the time. Back then, and even during the DSLR days, nobody was opening the picture in a 4K looking at the jump at 100%, and checking if the eyes were in focus (I am talking about the presentation, with no flash). It was: face is basically in "focus", dude you are a monster. Same for birds, you were expected to sharpen the eyes a little bit, not to nail the eyes of a bird in flight at f2.8 all the time. The cameras are pretty good but basically, Sony changed the game forever.
I run into this very issue with birds at a distance and then having birds coming in to roost at dusk. Trying to switch over to the flying target of opportunity which is usually at closer range is a challenge. I will definitely be programming in that focus button you discussed for my trip next month to Florida birding. Thanks for the tip!
Always good advice on this channel. Your tips on improving subject detect AF on the Lumix G9 made a big difference in my keeper rate for birding. Of course I'm leading up to the fact that the G9 offers a near-focus, far-focus programmable option and two buttons well placed at the front of the camera to nudge the camera lens in either direction should it become confused.
The autofocus issue is such a delight to hear told - because - it occurs on other systems too! Here i was hearing that the Z-system was all-that, getting annoyed specifically with focus subject detection on my duji x-h2s and 150-600 lens, and the issue turns out to be endemic to mirrorless! Thanks!!! Now i definitely love my fujis and consider the issue a general one!
My canon r5 acts the exact same way and I’ve heard it explained so many times simply as how mirrorless cameras works. You’ve offered the first possible solution I have heard. Love your consistent loyalty and criticism. You’ve shown over the years that you have a preference but you’re not a blind loyalist. Respect for that for sure.
Good for you. I thought it was my technique that caused the out of focus problem on my Z9. It wasn't, it's the camera... still figuring out the best way to fix it.
The most plausible way to fix it would be to sell it and switch to Sony.
Hope you see some of the techniques above!
@@CC3GROUNDZERO Why on earth would I move down market ?!
@@larrymitchell3502 Yes indeed, but still experimenting.
@@johnvaleanbaily246 How would you be "moving down market" when switching to Sony, the manufacturer with the industry-leading AF, who also produces the sensors of your current system?!
thank you! The same thing happened to me with the z8 and a sigma 150-600. It may happen on all cameras but it is extremely exaggerated and sometimes it does not move even when focused close and changing to 1 focus point. You can only do this by moving the ring. Thanks for letting me know that it's not me or my camera! 🤗🤜🏼
Hi Matt, absolutely right I’ve the same issue with Z9 and 800mm F5.6E. Hopefully Nikon weak up and fix the firmware. Great Video.
Thank you for this video! New z8 owner with a Sigma F mount 500 f4. I've been having intermittent focus issues exactly as you describe here, so good to know it's not my kit. Hopefully this gets a firmware fix soon!
I just bought the 180-600 as a combo with the 1.4x TC, and I love it. But I also recognized the described behavior. It doesn't bother me that much because it didn't happen that often. What I really need is some kind of "legacy" flash mode since I can't use my portable studio flashes anymore in HSS mode with my Z8. The flash interval doesn't seem to synchronize with sensor read-out. So the upper third (or the left side) is nearly black and/or I get very bad banding... Small strobes/on-camera flashes work flawlessly in HSS even off-camera.
Thanks for the video. Coming from D500, I wondered why Z9 was missing focus on some BIF which has caused considerable chagrin. In future will start closer with recall.
Matt, thanks for highlighting the focusing issue. You are exactly correct. As an older gainfully employed hobbyist my time and funds are limited. It's becoming more difficult for me to travel with larger lenses. Particularly with airline carry on camera equipment. My lens of choice with my Z8 is the 400/4.5 S lens. I can use the DX function button to extend to 600mm. I would like your recommendation on a 2 x teleconverter as an alternative to going to the Z 600mm f/6.3 VR S. Use case wise, I like the 400mm lens. My other travel lenses are the 14 -30/4 S and 24-120/4 S. Thanks.
Actually you can't use the DX function on the Z8 with a FX lens, while this would have been a advantage for users of the Z8, it would have eaten into the profits of Nikon when launching a DX Mirrorless camera in the near future, so when you set your Z8 to shoot in DX mode you can only use DX lenses; I am utterly disappointed with Nikon for doing this, stingy bastards.
That's incorrect. Take a look at the Nikon site specs.
@@PSYCHIC_PSYCHO I don't know if you take your CZcams name seriously. Nevertheless, you can go DX mode on FX lenses on Z8.
@@mainmain5303 Okay; however my comment was based on a review by a well known American reviewer.
Amen Matt. My D500 would even quickly refocus. The same is true in Animal AF as well but not as much as birds but still happens more than people would think. Also enjoyed your shutter shield broke video got me thinking to always carry back-ups with me on future trips.
Matt's nature footage is spot on: No effects/overly done color correction BS, calm, tasteful and suitable music, variety of closeups vs wide shots. well done mate.
Yes can be a pain happens a lot with z8 and some birds don't hang around long , or moving the lens to something in foreground still scares bird off, strange that my Olympus doesn't suffer as badly and will still grab focus coming far to near, maybe down to smaller sensor. so can be done. Great video Matt .Thanks
Totally agree with this and my personal gripe is Aperture priority Auto ISO at high shutter speeds (DSLR and Z9) are different
Thank you for the video... Surprised there is not a custom function for, AF lock on sensitivity ?
Glad to hear this. It has been a very annoying problem for me and I thought it was me. Just didn't understand why this great auto focus system, for me, was not all that great at times.
I know this isn't what the video was about but I love your watch. What kind/brand/model is it?
I hope they do this. One other thing I'd like to see improved, Depth of field preview when stopped down past F 5.6 on the rear screen
Cool watch. Which is it?
Without programable buttons on the lens, having a function button with close or far focus option would be good. But the firmware update would be great too. Thanks Matt
Great video! I have also noticed this issue while shooting sports, I have to admit, I thought maybe it was just me, but this video confirmed what I was experiencing as well. Cheers!
I agree there is a focus issue as you described and it has improved with recent updates. I have set the F1 button to single point when I need to get between branches or finding focus in the issue you mention. As you mention, the keeper rate has increased with the auto detection and I hope in due time there will be another firmware upgrade to further address the focus issue. Agree the door cover panels could have been designed like the D5/D850, for better protection.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts.
I'm looking to buy a z8 but having seen several videos about eyelashes focus in portrait, I'm holding on.
I had the very same issue with the SOny A7RIV and now with the A7R5 the focus is almost 100% right.
The reason why DSLRs are much less prone to this issue, is that their dedicated phase AF sensors are set up in a way that gives them a much deeper DoF. Even when your subject is blurred beyond recognition in the image at wide open aperture, DSLR PDAF system still sees it as it would have been with lens aperture considerably closed and thus getting a much higher chance of catching it.
Dslrs also didn’t have subject detect. So they were just looking for something with contrast
@@mattgranger DSLR's don't look for contrast, they look for phase shift (PDAF = phase detect AF), which isn't the same thing. Mirrorless introduced contrast-detect AF (CDAF), which is slower, but much more accurate and capable of working with subject detection algorithms. It's important to note that most mirrorless offerings use a hybrid PDAF/CDAF system, where the phase detection system has been moved to the sensor itself, typically by adding specific pixels for just this purpose.
I’d be willing to dedicate a function button to recall focus if I didn’t have to have a *second* fn button to set focus. Why can’t I hold-to-set and press-to-recall?
I have the two custom front buttons on my G9 set to 'AF-ON Close' and 'AF-ON far', so it knows where to look. With contrast only it needs the assistance.
Yes, same here on mine. Use it frequently.
one other tip, perhaps going to a smaller aperture (bigger f number), hence a greater depth of field may bring this under control again; the dof could be so thin that the AF system can't see the subject to do the detection on, aka it lies outside the subject detection's recognition range, so a few seconds at f8/f11 should fix it.
This same issue happens to almost all mirrorless cameras, regardless of brand; so it might be something inherent with mirrorless sensors and firmware may not be enough to fix the issue. The new Panasonic G9 Mark II allows you to program button to force the focus to search closer or further from the current point with some success.
I believe that happens only with auto area and 3d tracking modes. In single point mode for example my Z8 is racking back ans forth.
Z9 Autocapture includes a system to limit focus range from a near point to a far point. Could that facility be added to the usual focus system. We could stop it jumping to the background
Interesting issue/inconvenience...and great suggestion!
I set a button to activate pin point focus. Would this ease the pain?
At least Nikon have introduced the focus return button l am stuck still using manual adjustment.
I think Nikon already allows you to use the focus memory function so you can focus on the nearest object and enter the distance into the memory and then use the camera as normal but if you need to pull the focus you hit the recall focus memory button.
Discussed in video. 👍🏼
Right on! I have experienced the problem you talk about but have also experienced the opposite problem. That is, if I am focused near and I am trying to find a bird (or quarterback) far away, the camera can't see it and gets stuck and gives up. I actually have to find a tree or other object (something large) far away, focus on that and then go for my original subject. I read OkwyUgonweze below about setting wide area small (medium or large) and still have the same problem. Frustrating!
An excellent explanation and video, thanks for posting this.
I find I have the same issue with the Canon R5 and the 500 F/4 very regularly, especially trying to get a bird in tree branches. I quite often have to point the camera to the ground a few feet in front of me and then go back to trying to get the subject which to me is easier than manual focus pull. I rarely have the issue on the Sony a7RIV or a7RV with the 200-600 (don't have a long prime on that system to see if that is a commonality).
Thanks again for an interesting point of view. I also would like to see the problem of the use of flash solved in mirrorless cameras. That was my biggest disapointment when I changed to the Z, all my flashes became useless.
What do you mean your flashes became useless?
It's happened quite often with my Z9. It is annoying but like you said , there are work arounds. Still hope it gets fixed.
100%
i have noticed this on my z50 when I attached the f mount 18-200 lens using the ftz ii adapter. The camera simply gives up on trying to find focus, so I end up having to manually assist it to give it a sense of the scene then it will focus.
I think the solution shouldn't be too difficult. Panasonic cameras have a feature called near AF and far AF, which you can set to any of the buttons or the joystick on the camera body. It basically tells the camera that the subject is closer or further from the current focus distance.
This function is what makes the G9 in particular usable, in spite of the DfD system. Set to the two buttons by the lens mount
@Broskisnowski not really. They have focus recall, where you can pull focus to a pre programmed distance. What I've mentioned isn't anything like it.
i use in that situation the af recall Funktion, first i set it to 6-8 Meters. I need fast go back i press Button on the lens or on the cam.
Great conversation Matt , thanks.
I started building kit with Nikon because of the quality of their glass but I think they’ve been struggling to catch up in the Mirrorless market bodies. Will be interesting to see how they do with global sensors
Cool video.
Question about the D700:
Where ever I read something about the D700 people seem to mention the extraordinary color rendition of that camerabody. What is your take on that, is it as good as people tend to say or is it mostly nostalgia?
I think it’s mostly nostalgia. It feels great in the hand and at base iso the image is nice. But the quality falls away VERY QUICKLY at higher iso
The biggest problem is not being able to auto focus AF-D lenses. Nikon were always exemplary at backwards compatibility with F mount but not having an FTZ with a focus motor is poor. It reduces your Z9 to the capabilities of a D3500 when using AF-D lenses.
Terrific video! I'm a Canon shooter and have been watching your videos for years. I was the same way, slow to move to mirror less but once I moved to the R5 from my 5DIV, I was converted. The first time in the woods, it locked onto a chicadee's eye....black head and tiny black eye. And that was with a thousand dollar third party zoom. Good work, Matt.
I agree. It's a particular problem when using auto capture as there's no opportunity for user interention.
Matt, are you satisfied with your Z9’s Eye-AF accuracy? I find that the square shows it is on the eye, but in post processing I discover it is not. Any suggestions?
Also, in all your travels and photo sessions, how much does atmospheric haze affect your shooting? I recently was frustrated using the Z 600mm Phase Fresnel for two weeks before the haze lifted and the photos became razor sharp.
Thanks,
JP
What firmware version are you using?
@@williambuford6136 - 4.10
@@williambuford6136 - I am using firmware 4.10. Nikon had me do a hard reset and encouraged me to retry shooting tomorrow.
I have been thinking of jumping from my D810 to Z6II > but the auto focus really makes me hesitant on the upgrade.
i have a d3000 and i feel ive mastered it should i upgrade?
I wish I had this problem! Can only imagine how frustrating this is. Interesting video Matt.
As a event photographer, Z8 feels like a downgrade when it comes for low light events - no AF-assist from flash. Second thing is, camera will focus using F5.6 for focusing if that aperture is set for shooting (dSLR will close aperture only during shooting ) So basically i cant shoot in lowlight using flash and using some smaller aperture (even F4 - camera will struggle to lock focus on anything) Damn, im refreshing nikonrumors webpage everyday expecting new firmware update
For the bird AF thing, one thing I found that I think a lot of people make the mistake of, is using too large of an area. While I don't shoot wildlife that much, in the times I have, I have found that a large wide area (but not full area) AF works best as long as I can mostly predict and keep the bird within that part of the frame. I think some people make the mistake of using too large of an area (even full Auto area AF) and rely on the camera to search the entire frame. This may be helpful if the bird is flying because it can be a bit erratic, but if the bird is NOT moving (perched somewhere) using a smaller AF area I've found helps and I've ended up with less missed shots or out of focus shots rather. I st ill get them but have had fewer issues by narrowing down the area of focus so the camera isn't trying to look all over the entire frame.
I wonder if your update "request" will be included in the rumored update for the Z8 (and perhaps also to the Z9). Not sure if they would do the same for the Z5/Z6/Z7 but maybe.) However i did hear there is supposed to be an update for the Z8 (the first one 1.01 was more a bug fix and I think just lens support).
Perhaps they could have it so that when you press a button (programmable) that it just pulls back and starts over, like yo udescribe, rather than being automatic, OR have it so you can choose whether the lens racks focus fully or requires the button press to do it. My guess is that at farther distances, racking focus all the way back to close focus may eat up precious time, and may not always have been thought to be necessary (obviously, it may be) and that's why it tends to hang out at farther distances, and even say 7m like you mentioned which isn't that far away in reality).
Do Nikon lenses tell the camera when they are about to hit close focus or does it see stop when the motor lugs down?
If the latter then maybe it was a power saving effort to leave it out as DSLRs didn’t have to worry so much about battery life?
Making it an option would then, as you say, make more sense but not the default which understand was in DSLRs.
I would like that they fix banding when you shoot under led lights or mix lighting.. better auto white balance results .. better auto focus and communication with speedlight specially in low light..
Isn’t there a special mode to mitigate the banding?
@@mynameisben123 not on Z6II and on Z9 is very limited! Needs to be done as Sony did in their latest camera..
Or it could just be a double tap on the AF button to make the focus come back to closer distance.
Your finger is already on it so it would be really easy and quick.
on those long primes, you can set a button to go instant to the closest distance. at least with my 428 and 640E
Yep. Discussed in video.
@@mattgranger yeah sorry, couldn't edit yesterday when accidentally sent. I was meant to say that those buttons are quite helpful in this regard and I have been using them since DSLR era for pretty much the reason you have explained about focus.
I think the back focus issue is probably the biggest gripe with the Nikon Z system. Canon and Sony seem to scan the full focus range to find the subject while Nikons just kind of sit where they are to search for the subject. I still love my Zs and will keep them because I prefer them to the other systems. I just learn to use my gear knowing the limitations.
Hey Drew - from the comments, it seems Canon and Sony users experience this issue too sadly.
Hi Matt, thanks for a new great video.
I most shoot sports and wildlife and use both A74+Sony 200-600 and KI-Il + Pentax 150-450 and I get 3 times more pictures with the Sony but sometimes more keepers with the Pentax. Just get sloppy and loose control and think mirrorless will fix it all is to drop down your skills permanent. Good to grab DSLR:s for training and keeping skills alive. I like to use both systems and will never drop the Pentax, does not matter how adwanced the mirrorless will be in the future. Tested the R5 and R6 for 3 days with RF lenses but did not get impressed. Have had the D500 and used Nikon Z6Il + 70-200f2.8 on a Nikon photo walk and It was a very nice setup. Did put it against A74+Tamron 35-150 and K1-II + Pentax 70-200f2.8 and all has its plus and minus. Was a heavy day, 3 systems around my neck but fun. As you say use the system you like and train train train and the results will come. Unfortunately most people only read spec sheets before buying, if possible, rent different systems and test them out before ending up with cameras and lenses for E 10.000 and then they stay at the shelf. Dont release a Volcano, stay calm at Iceland.
All the best from Sweden another interesting photo challenge / Bengt
My biggest complaint (with my Z6ii) is that I can't assign a button to switch from single point AF to group/dynamic AF- like my D500 could. Is this an option on the Z8 or Z9?
Would this be like Depth From Defocus? For as much flack as Panasonic old DFD system uses to get, I found it more accurate on numerous occasions. Just a pain in the azz for wildlife and video
I am thinking about what to do with my D750 but it still works well
people are starting to realize the z8 will cause banding stripes when using godox flashes in hss at higher sync speed, can be seen at 1/4000s. this doesn't happen on the z7ii with a mech shutter. this not the the lcd background flickering banding. that is different. I have a few nikons myself. 5 fx 2dslr and 3milc.
Valid point. Moral of the story is to focus close by and store that distance under the focus recall button.
I would want the focusing limiting switch to be different: "Full" as is today for full range and the other position of the switch to behave as "Limited" where I can set nearest and farthest focusing distance in an associated menu. My Z 105/2.8S macro lens has a valid 0.29m-0.5m limited range, but why not offer me the option to change that into 1.2m-2.4m when I use it in my studio for portraits? Same story with longer lenses. Take your 85 to a wedding. You will probably use it in the 2m-4m range (wanting 2 people in the frame, generally). Set focusing distance recall to 2m and wam bam shoot whichever.
This is a great presentation. Of course the product is great, but getting to the edge on actual, in depth use with intelligent commentary makes this a worthwhile video. Thanks for the info.
Canons are the same, this problem exists with all Mirrorless cameras and not just Nikon. I used an R5, R7 and same thing I’ve also experienced this.
I bought a Z8 and put a Yongnuo YN 568 Ex flash on it, with which it communicates in TTL mode, but it overexposes terribly! Then I looked it up and saw that this was a problem for other people as well. I have Yongnuo flashes and triggers and I don't know if it would be possible to use the Z8 in TTL mode with another Yongnuo flash, or will I have to buy a much more expensive Nikon flash? A video on this topic would be nice. Nikon Z and non-Nikon TTL flashes. (Google was my translator)
I don't shoot birds, but one thing where the Z9 is still worse than a DSLR is shooting in the studio with flashes. Once you go beyond f5.6, the focusing becomes slower, and I much prefer using the D850, which is faster and more accurate in such conditions. I have almost zero waste with D850, while with the Z9, there are quite a few poorly focused photos for my taste.
A button for: "Focus-recall" or "Focus-search" timeout or even program a button so the user can kick start the camera look into out-of-focus areas.
Matt You are so thoughtful & insightful man!! Thank you for this wonderful catch while also being fair!!! You are a real inspiration💯💯
I appreciate that! Thanks Ronald
Excellent point Matt and may I just throw in one more simple firmware update request. Nikon please allow us landscape photographers a 4:5 ratio in the Z9!! I still don`t understand that overlook and whenever I ask on your FB page my request is instantly taken down, and no I don`t want to hear the proverbial, "just crop later Dude" comments.
I love 4*5 too!
I shot a D4 for many years and I am just grateful to no longer have the focus rack and back and forth when I am trying to lock onto a flying bird. Yes, it could be better, but it has improved so much compared to a short time ago. Your solutions sound reasonable. I like the idea of setting the focus recall button to a closer focus.
Its really good positive criticism, to make some details better. I totally agree. Tgese cameras can work at - 10 c , so... They build and tested cameras , they have known how. The f6, the d5, d6, d850 .. they know. Thanks Matt Granger for your love for photography.
Exactly! My pleasure mate.
That at 5:02 is generally a problem of all ML systems, independent of the brand. The ones more, the others less. If that focus plane is at infinity or so, they never hunt back.
The problem is they overheat when you put them in fire, they sink when you put them in water, they freeze when you put them in the icebox, and they stop working with the battery dies. Honestly disgraceful no other brand has this problem.
Does this camera have a button for focusing? Sony A7iv has, so can focus on what ever you select or what's in the centre. Halfpressing shutter does it or AF-on does it. Can use the small joystick to select focus point or touch the screen. I've not tried it big lenses. Pressing joystick resets it to centre. This feature means there's no need to manually focus, it works mos tof the time. I think the camera only missed focus once. I only have one lens so far.
No idea how it would perform with a big lens.
The camera is not perfect but got it second hand from a dealer, like new so was a great buy. No camera is perfect.
Cheers mate, but that’s a different scenario from what I’m describing.
@@mattgranger My point is about overriding it with a button. Only difference I see is different camera and lenses and big lens, different scene. Does Nikon have such feature? So it could refocus. Or is this problematic with big lenses? I've never tried this camera nor big lenses. It's the first time I'm hearing of this issue. But being able to override it via a button would be neat. Or am I missing something? I will rewatch the vid. I also can hold the af button so it stays in focus when moving, don't know if Nikon has this probably has these features. Have you tested this?
I fell for the Nikon Z7 when first offered. Then i realized that my favorite 3D Focus Tracking was missing. I stayed with my D3 and D700 and love them still. My Z7 is resting comfortably in the back of my equipment closet.
I too was glad to see 3D tracking return to the z9