Setting up for splits without having to find the queen
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- čas přidán 21. 07. 2024
- Discussion and demonstration of how to set up hives without finding the queen to do splits. Includes brief discussion on setting up for the nectar (honey) flow.
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I've been watching bee videos since early winter and today is the first time your channel came up. Thanks for the video. I'm new to beekeeping and trying to learn. It seems overwhelming.
It can seem that way. Stay the course…you’ll get there.
You could also put a queen excluder between the 2 deeps then come back after a couple days and then split the deeps and allow the queenless deep reer a new queen on its own.
I prefer to do splits with a mated queen or ripe cell rather than walk away splits. Too much production time is lost in such a short season with walk away splits.
At 6:43:
It can really be seen that you are not a newbie.
Checking the queen, shaking the bees off, giving a glimpse again if the queen is still there, then putting the frame aside. :)
I've been doing this a while but learning everyday. You think you have them figured out and they will laugh at you. :)
Just Subbed ! Hoovering up the Bee knowledge. 🐝
👍
(Dyson is a UK vacuum cleaner manufacturer. 😆)
🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝
Too bad they aren’t closely related. If so, I wouldn’t be farming…😉. Thanks for the sub!
Thanks anyway!! Good luck
Hey I’m a new subscriber. Alway interested in learning more for fellow beekeepers. Thx
Awesome. Thanks for the sub!
Great job my friend 👍🏼 Isn’t it good to get Queen on first frame . I’m like you i catch Queen cage her put her in my pocket, then put queen excluder back on , even put top box on and lid ; then remember that Queen is still in my Bloody pocket😂😂 then dismantle everything to put her in bottom box Great and informative videos ❤️🏴Wales
Glad I’m not alone. Thanks for watching!
Would she fly away if you release her at the entrance ?
@@user-cp2sx8gp2z Probably not mated Queen can’t fly very well ; problem with releasing Her at entrance is over zealous Guard bees might kill her thinking she is stranger
In the "quick no look" that you showed at the end, you didn't check to make sure the queen was in the bottom below the queen excluder?
I shook the frames that went in the top, so if the queen was on one of those frames, she is now in the bottom.
When do you put the second deep back on for winter? As soon as the honey is harvested? What is your feeding strategy in the 2 deep box going into winter?
I put the deep back on as soon as supers come off. Feeding depends on my availability of drawn comb. Last year I didn’t have enough and ended up having to push the feed heavy to pull comb. If there is drawn comb, I like to push one round of 1:1 to encourage a little brood and then a few rounds of 2:1 to pack the box. If the top deep is 60-70% full of honey, I feel comfortable. The amount of feed also depends on weather. If it gets cold, the bees shut down, taking less feed. Last year it was still 80 degrees in December and they were blowing through resources as fast as I put them on.
Thank you for your videos! What is your opinion on making new bee family from daily uncapped brood..and Queens from that emergency cells? Any good?
I do not condone making “walk away splits”. The colony is put in a stress situation which makes for queens that are not as well fed and potentially poorer performers. Secondly, the colony will go for around 50 days before the new queen will have any brood emerge. By this time, encarar flows are over, eliminating most potential for honey production and it leaves little time to build up and reserve for dearth’s and winter.
@@DysonApiaries thank you wery much for your reply! What is the best way to raise queens? To make New splits/families? From swarm cell? Buy?
Both. Depends on your goals. Try grafting…use swarm cells, buy queens, buy queen cells. There are a lot of ways to make it work. Just depends on how you want to approach it.
I would like to know why you don't want the walk away method I have done it for many years is is and maybe faster than any other method out there.
There are two main factors for me. Firstly, the spilt is in a high stress situation…often underpopulated. This leads to queens cells being under fed and the not as high of quality as those raised under swarm impulse (grafted or swarming). Secondly, I can’t afford to have the lost production for that long period. With the walk away method, the queen will not emerge for 10 days…7 more days before mating (if weather is good)..4 more to start laying. Then it is 21 more days before her first brood will emerge. Meanwhile the adult population has been declining from die off with no replacements emerging. That’s 42 days. In my area, 42 days means I missed my flow and any potential production from the colony. I feel there are better methods out there where we raise high quality queens maintain productive hives.
@@DysonApiaries Thank you it make sense.
What strain of bees do you have?reason i ask is your bees are calm and not running all over the place and trying to continually sting you
They are Italian. We raise our own queens and heavily select for docility.
@@DysonApiaries thanks.do you often sale mated laying queens?
Yes. I’m done for the season but I think my dad still has a few.
@@DysonApiaries ok thanks im going to see if he has a couple left.
How often are you stung? -Thanks!
Daily. It’s just part of it.
I try not to get stung.
You know you could have just put a queen excluder in the first place.just saying...
Thanks for the feedback. We are talking with a broad audience and sometimes I do things in a manner that may not be the most efficient or broadly accepted method, but it fits to that broad audience for understanding. I’m unsure of what point in the process you are referring to, but would love to know as I am always trying to improve my processes as well.
@@DysonApiaries I don't think he realized that the point of the exercise was to confine the queen in the bottom box to make picking resources for Nucs or splits more efficient.