What’s in the box? questions answered (TSO parallel guide sets, which one to choose)
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- čas přidán 15. 04. 2023
- **Quick Note- the TSO systainer and foam insert are separate purchases from the parallel guide sets**
Here are the TSO Product tool links-
My affiliate link to the entire site,
tsoproducts.com/?ref=Scolaro
TSO Parallel guide sets-
tsoproducts.com/parallel-guid...
TSO drop on connectors-
tsoproducts.com/parallel-guid...
TSO tanos systainer-
tsoproducts.com/organization-...
TSO foam insert storage for 20" parallel guides-
tsoproducts.com/organization-...
TSO GRS16-PE rail square-
tsoproducts.com/guide-rail-sq... - Jak na to + styl
Guys I don’t know if you know this but a 30” has a 20” built in. And get this….a 50” has a 30 and a 20 built in. Winning! All jokes aside, I have a 30 set and I love them.
Anthony, thanks for another informative TSO video. I’m a DIY hobbyist who owns the 30” kit. It’s a great system, but I’m still honing my TSO mojo; that’ll come with more use. Be well!
Fantastic video! I love seeing you walk through your methodology for how you use these
Quick Note-***the TSO systainer and foam insert are separate purchases from the parallel guide set***
Remember, this is a guide to help you on your journey. I hope this makes it a little easier. TSO parallel guides have made my life easier and the quality and accuracy is outstanding. Make sure you figure out which set(s) are best for your needs before deciding on which ones to purchase.
Thanks Anthony, I'm done with my rips with the TSO system, so I wanted to know if I could use just one rail and the square guide... I just need some additional knobs for this….
Update just got done with the crosscuts, nice square pieces! Thanks for the video!
Thank you for sharing. I think going with the 20" or 20" & 30" is great advice unless you already are using a jobsite table saw. In that situation I would use the 30", or better yet, the 30" & 50" because the table saw is a lot easier/quicker to do smaller cuts .
I have been considering both TSO and Festool PGSs. I think the biggest difference is the FT requires the PGS to sit on the edge of the wood - this requires a longer track to span the rip. The TSO can be attached to the side and is more versatile. A video comparing the strengths a weakness of both would be helpful. Thanks!
Thanks a lot for the presentation it very good!!. Have you ever thought of having online wood working class I would the first to sign up.
good video as always
Thanks for the overview Anthony. As much as I'd like that 20" set, I have an upcoming job of a few base cabinets so looks like the 30" is it for me. Down the line I made add the 20" rails, but for now, the 30" set will serve me well.
Yes, unless you’re base cabinets were a custom size, you really can’t get the full depth out of the 20 set. That’s why I have the 30 also. The 20 is great for me because I do a lot of on site work and transport is easy and the compact design is perfect for not having to drag out a contractor table saw.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 It makes me want TSO to release a 10 or 12" extension kit, that way we'd have the best of both worlds: compact size for transport, and enough capacity to do standard base cabinets. I know TSO offers track connectors, so literally all they'd need to add is 10-12" tracks.
edit: You know what, I just saw that TSO sells the 20" rails separately. So a simple solution is to get the 20" set, the rail connectors and an extra set of 20" rails.
@@NWGR absolutely. Great solution
Good presentation on guides. At first site seems complicated, learning curve from table saw. With builit ins or a closet whats the best wood to use?
With built-ins and cabinets, closets systems etc… I always use cabinet grade plywood for the carcasses. It all depends on if you are painting or staining them and If you’re doing frameless or face frames. Paint grade, I use maple or birch and poplar. Stain grade depends on the grain pattern and colors you or the client want. Like red oak vs. white oak or cherry vs something like walnut, which like white oak, I try never to stain unless absolutely necessary. That’s a question that can only be answered by your choice of design and finish.
Anthony quick question am I right in thinking that you can put the parallel guides any where along the guides against with festool guides that have be 30mm over the length of the ripped material so you could rip say a 2.4m rip and a 2m rip if you ripped the 2m first without moving the guides hope that makes sense Gary 🇬🇧
Hi Gary, I really wish it made sense. I’m not really sure what you are asking. Are you asking about making thin rip cuts like 2mm, because if that’s what you’re asking, I cover that in the TSO parallel guide video I made for the 30 & 50 set. In that video, I demonstrate how to use the thin rip rods on the flip stops to make smaller cuts. If that’s not what you meant, maybe you can reword the question and hopefully I can help answer it better.
@@AnthonyScolaro1hi Anthony if I'm cutting say a 2400 x300 rip and a 2000x300 do have to move the parallel guides if I set them at 2000 apart for the shorter rip on the festool they index of the ends of the rips so if say you cut shorter rip say 2400 then a 2300 you have to move the guides closer together Gary
@@garywheeley5108 now I understand. You can set the parallel guides on the rail close to the ends of the board as possible or position them in to accommodate shorter boards as well so you won’t have to readjust them on different length boards. An even better option is to get the drop on connectors like I have so that you can just put them on and lift them off the rail without any tools, in which case you can reposition them in milliseconds for different size boards. I also demonstrated this in my other video. I hope this helps.
@@AnthonyScolaro1 thanks Anthony 😊
@@garywheeley5108 no problem
I see a spray gun in the background, looks like a Fuji, do you have videos about spray finishes?
Yes, go to my channel and go to playlists. You’ll find videos for finishing there.