Thank you so much for this video...my husband has been struggling to get the pump screwed in. Until I watched this video and got the best tip: put the seal on the tank first THEN insert the pump. Could have saved much time, sweat and swearing! (He had already made an essential inspection hatch.)
For 2006 110 Defender the pump location point is 38cm from LHS and 48cm from doorway. The main strut lies in the way and has to be cut. Too bad. And a 115mm angle grinder doesn’t reach the far side so bring a hacksaw. 😅 Difficulty in inserting the spring pump may be due to incorrect fitting of the plastic fuel gauge base. I notice you broke yours. Thanks for sharing.
I changed the pump on my TD5 recently by dropping the tank. An absolute pig of a job. Trying to get the ta k back in was a nightmare. If I ever need to do it again I’ll definitely be cutting an inspection hole like this. The Disco TD5 comes with a nice factory inspection hole - takes 5 mins to change a pump on that apparently!
Cheers man! I have known about the access cut-out method for years but never got around to doing. Was always unsure of how close the pipes and wiring were to the floor panel. The sludge is usually an algae. My pump has packed up completely, so time to bite the bullet and cut the floor...just my luck, it's an inch of snow and ice outside and I can't get into my shed...bummer! 🙂
Other videos by LR specialists say you have to put the pump gasket on the tank first , otherwise it is too hard to get the spring loaded fuel pump to seat and lock the top …hope that helps ……ironically Disco have the inspection hatch and some are older than Defenders….good old LR production not fitting a hatch as standard …they obviously know it was needed ……otherwise why put it on the Disco 👍👍
Trust me, if that pump is disturbingly loud, you want to hear it and monitor when and how loud it is. If the pump is good and the fuel and/or tank is clean, you wont hear it.
mate thanks for video . I'm just curious before I cut mine do you think it could be possible to leave that long thin brace in and cut a square out to the side of it and still be able to get the pump out I'm just going to cover my spare hole with a piece of stainless. My tub is of the car at the min . Thanks
I cut a pump hatch in 2005 td5 110sw and you can’t do it without cutting a structural floor support so I abandoned the mission!! It’s not one of the small floor panel supports it’s a large main strut, don’t cut it out !!!
Thank you so much for this video...my husband has been struggling to get the pump screwed in. Until I watched this video and got the best tip: put the seal on the tank first THEN insert the pump. Could have saved much time, sweat and swearing! (He had already made an essential inspection hatch.)
Thanks for the video, my pump just packed up last night and i want to replace it myself. Cheers mate.
For 2006 110 Defender the pump location point is 38cm from LHS and 48cm from doorway. The main strut lies in the way and has to be cut. Too bad. And a 115mm angle grinder doesn’t reach the far side so bring a hacksaw. 😅 Difficulty in inserting the spring pump may be due to incorrect fitting of the plastic fuel gauge base. I notice you broke yours. Thanks for sharing.
A great video showing how a simple modification can make life much simpler! I will do this to my 2002 TD5 90, but will cut a circular hatch.
I changed the pump on my TD5 recently by dropping the tank. An absolute pig of a job. Trying to get the ta k back in was a nightmare. If I ever need to do it again I’ll definitely be cutting an inspection hole like this. The Disco TD5 comes with a nice factory inspection hole - takes 5 mins to change a pump on that apparently!
Brilliant video - planning on doing this tomorrow to mine 🤞🏼
Cheers man! I have known about the access cut-out method for years but never got around to doing. Was always unsure of how close the pipes and wiring were to the floor panel. The sludge is usually an algae. My pump has packed up completely, so time to bite the bullet and cut the floor...just my luck, it's an inch of snow and ice outside and I can't get into my shed...bummer! 🙂
Other videos by LR specialists say you have to put the pump gasket on the tank first , otherwise it is too hard to get the spring loaded fuel pump to seat and lock the top …hope that helps ……ironically Disco have the inspection hatch and some are older than Defenders….good old LR production not fitting a hatch as standard …they obviously know it was needed ……otherwise why put it on the Disco 👍👍
So you have also cut through and removed a piece of the angle support strut supporting the floor!
Trust me, if that pump is disturbingly loud, you want to hear it and monitor when and how loud it is. If the pump is good and the fuel and/or tank is clean, you wont hear it.
Thanks for this it works
mate thanks for video . I'm just curious before I cut mine do you think it could be possible to leave that long thin brace in and cut a square out to the side of it and still be able to get the pump out I'm just going to cover my spare hole with a piece of stainless. My tub is of the car at the min . Thanks
Thank you!
glad it was useful, Dawn.
Do you know if the dimensions and location for the inspection hole are the same for the 110 TD5 defender?
hmm, sadly I'm not sure. Sorry, try a forum perhaps
I cut a pump hatch in 2005 td5 110sw and you can’t do it without cutting a structural floor support so I abandoned the mission!!
It’s not one of the small floor panel supports it’s a large main strut, don’t cut it out !!!
Which pump did you get
Don't waste your time buy a Toyota!
😆