It's not 8,000 BTU's. It's 8,000 Watts, which is over 27,000 BTU's. If you need 30,000 BTU's, is almost there. Also, you were laying the thermometer directly on the cold tractor. You weren't even measuring air temperature. This is a horribly executed experiment!
You are right, but so is he. It's too small I use one of these with a 80k but diesel salamander/torpedo heater. The big heater get everything up to temp and the little heater maintains it for a while so I dont go deaf with that loud heater running all day.
Hello. I have had one for 3 years. It works flawless. It is too small to heat up my 24 x 24 garage here in North East Ontario when its -20C or lower, but it takes the edge off. I will probably be moving it into my 1973 rebuilt camper for hunting. Stay safe.
To heat 576 sq ft with a diesel heater is a challenge. Totally depends on whether or not it's insulated, and how well. One of the problems with heating a garage, is that you're not just heating the air in the garage, you're heating up everything in the garage. If you've got ... literally, a ton of metal in the garage, then you are also heating that up too. The BTUs' required to heat a ton of metal 40 degrees C, is huge. After I dragged all my tool boxes into my workshop, I noticed that it was way, way slower to heat up, but also way, way slower too cool down. I have no problem heating a 220 sq ft insulated workshop, with the diesel heater, inside a 1,000 sq ft quonset style garage. But, that also means that the workshop has no wind load. I've also got a 740 sq ft garage that's insulated, ( except for the concrete floor), that has a 40,000 BTU propane heater. At - 30 ( F, or C.. about the same temp).. It takes all of the 40,000 BTUs' to slowly warm it up. About three hours to get to 20 C. from - 20 C. I usually boot up a 70,000 BTU forced air Diesel heater to quickly boost the temp, and then just go with the propane. As the forced air diesel heater ( a Remington ) uses free air inside the garage, running it excessively, without a window cracked open, will give you a head ache, as it does consume oxygen from the interior of the garage. There are ways to maximise the output of a diesel heater.. Run it on outside air for combustion, run the exhaust through the building inside before the exhaust exits the building, etc. But at the end of the day, there is only so much heat that can be extracted from a litre of Diesel.
It really should do the trick. Once it's caught up, it should maintain. I close my house down during the winter and only live in a 12x32 section. I'm in NY and I keep the place between 60-70f all winter with 1.5kw. Even in the cold spell, reaching down to -28f, a few weeks ago, I was able to keep above 60f
Don’t expect something in one hour when there’s so much cold metals around, you should run it at least for half day till all stuff around gets warmer and after all you should see results
I have the exact same model as well but my shop is 80 ft x 40 ft with a concrete slab .I use it in combination with a couple of small electric heaters and two fans blowing from opposite sides of the shop and it works pretty decent overall . I didn't buy it for heating up the entire shop and had no illusions that it would do it alone .I got it for the flexibility to be able to use other fuels if need be . I can see it being handy as a SHTF tool or for camping or heating up a smaller building like a greenhouse or a shed etc . I used mine to see how well it would heat my shed which is 20 X 12 and it worked out awesome . IMO if you want to heat up a large shop such as what I have or the one you're using ,a wood stove like a rocket stove using thermal mass or a gasifier would be the way to go assuming you have access to wood which obviously not everyone does . Aside from that an oil drip heater would also be effective for heating up a large space quickly and without the need to run the oil through a filter . I've seen videos where people have used old unfiltered oil this particular heater but it's definitely not a good idea unless you enjoy taking things apart or replacing parts all the time . My take on it is for what it does and for the price it's not a bad investment .I got mine through an EBay seller and feel like I got what I paid for and more . The build quality is actually pretty decent and the whole process from start to finish was excellent .
Great video! the diesel heater sounds like o good idea. i have a 12 foot x 16 foot shed/workshop that i am looking at heating. love watching your videos. :)
I have a 20x30 garage with a 2nd floor, and it seems to warm it up pretty well, it does take a while though, and I have the 2nd floor blocked off with a sheet. Of course it wasn't super cold and windy when I tested, but still much better than having electric run to the garage and having all that set up, at least for now.
My Dad actually uses one of those heaters to heat the house. Well, not necessarily heat the house, but to help keep it warm. He put it in our unfinished basement and ran a dryer heater duct vent from the basement to the kitchen. He connected a 1" metal pipe to the exhaust hose and to our wood burner in the basement to let the exhaust escape outside. Then he used a very powerful small desk fan he put inside the duct vent to help blow the heat around. It doesn't WARM the house, but it does keep it warm enough that our furnace doesn't kick on every time someone opens the kitchen door. It keeps the thermostat at or above the temperature set so the furnace don't kick on. It actually worked wayy better than I thought and saved us a lot of money by not burning the fuel our furnace uses..
Thank you !!! I was going to pull the trigger on one for my 60 yr old uninsulated garage. 14 by 20. Would have been a waste of money I am in Nova Scotia.
I tell ya couple years ago I scored on a Rannai FC824P (propane ventless) for my 2-car semi-insulated garage… it’s freakin amazing. Though they are real pricey and then there’s the cost of propane…. All things considered everything seems like a trade-off/compromise to a proper furnace (like yours) maybe even a mini-split ( but no experience there). Good, reliable heat is gonna cost you whether it’s the initial outlay or the long haul imo.
A couple of thoughts... Not really a fair test of the capabilities of the heater. By the looks of the garage, there must be several thousand pounds of metal in there. This mass acts as a heat sink, and will severely slow down the heating process in the garage. How many BTU to raise 2 tons of metal 40 degrees F, would be a question for someone who knows better than I do. I heat my workshop to 20 C , or, if you prefer, 70 F, with no issues, but I did notice it was slower to heat up after I moved in a ton of tool boxes and heavy metal benches. 3.5 MHZ to heat it up, 1.7 to 2.3 MHZ to keep it toasty, depending on ambient temps ( 22 x 10 insulated ). A fairer test would have been to let it run until there was no temperature raise in over 2 hours. I also noticed that you don't have it set up for drawing air from outside for combustion. This inherently reduced the efficiency of the unit. Every cubic foot of air exhausted from the garage, requires a cubic foot of air to be sucked in from the outside through all unsealed construction. The colder it is outside, the less efficient the heater is. Not that the heater becomes less efficient, but rather that the forced ingress of cold outside air negatively impacts fuel consumption, and heating capability.
You are correct about not drawing the air from an outside source. He's creating negative pressure for one and if this is Chinese, it's more than likely at a guess not 8kw, its probably more like 4-5kw so the heater and how he's using it is probably doing what it can. His working out of BTUs is quite alot out.
Yup on 8kW in 5x6x2,8M non insulated garage (only ceiling is insulated with 10cm of mineral wool) can "take the edge off" by rising temperature by 5-10*C (depending how long I'll have it turned on). I will have to insulate to work comfortable there during winter.
Good to see a proper input of these heater's they're starting to bum and blow about them over here. Wood stove or a reillo oil burner and a 50gallon drum if the oil's cheap ? 28second burns cleaner . 💯👍🤟
I have a 30x24 garage and I ran it all winter long. Sides insulated only kept my garage around 38 degrees all winter long. Did a decent job but in the end I went with my mr buddy 30k btu heater With a fan above it and I gotta say it works much better but the downside is i can’t run it 24/7 just when the cars need to get the snow and salt melted off.
My ve vor diesel heating my garage -15 deg c, out. Fully insulated 750sqft 3 car garage. Keeps it at 8deg C perfect for working! Takes 4 liters per day on 1 bar on the controller
I was looking at these a few weeks ago prior to a cold snap; definitely has some potential and probably cheaper than I could make anything that I'd also run in my house. Planning to run the exhaust right up the chimney, which our family room was converted by the previous owner in the 80s from a garage, though it was never plumbed into the central HVAC system. Gets dramatically cooler in winter than the rest of the house even with double wide doors acting as a temperature sink. For me, I'd thin out my waste motor oil from my forge supply with either some kerosene or a bit of acetone.
Your not far off from what I was debating. I was doing the math the other day. Between cars trucks and mowers just my own stuff let alone flip machines. I end up with 10 to 15 gallons of waste oil. Running out of stumps to burn out and not a fan of drip heaters.
@@joepalazzo91 It needs to be thinned with a very particular solvent but I've been blasting WVO through tiny orifices' under high pressure for years, just gotta know the secret sauces!
I tend to agree with you, my garage is well insulated, similar size to yours and if the weather is mild say 5 or 6 deg C it's fairly OK especially if you are close to it but it never really gets it hot, my 12kw wood burner gets the place like toast very quickly, it is good for a short visit to the garage when you don't want to set a fire.
I use a pair of 1500W electric heaters in my 20x20 garage (partially underground, cinder block walls, concrete slab, living space above, basement attached). It takes about 2 hours of full running to raise the temperature in the space from 32F to 55F (sometimes better). I can make it warm enough that i'm ditching sweat shirts and long sleeves. something tells me one of these little diesel heaters might do a more efficient job, especially if I make it run on waste oils.
People seem to forget that all material things, which in a garage, consist largely of metal, takes in allot of cold and takes time to heat up. Thermal camera would show the variances.
For that size you need at least 2 5kw heaters for that and depending on how drafty it is you should get good warmth in there but just one I would say no. Also consider insulation for the walls.
These were designed mainly for truckers, boats, motor homes, campers, van-lifers, etc...not a garage. Sure you can use them anywhere and Suze of space is everything. If it takes the chill out.. good. I've seen lots of people use these in garages and they've Said it may take several hrs to warm up their area to like 70 degrees.. but it worked for them.
So as others pointed out it’s 8 kW not BTUs. Which puts you quite close to the required BTUs. You have a lot of mass in that garage acting as a thermal battery, I have no doubt you could get it to 55+ once everything has warmed up. I also would not point the output at the ground as you’re going to get a lot of lost energy to the ground/concrete that could go towards heating up the air.
I'm running an 8kw heater in my garage a few hours a day. I'm trying to keep it around 7 or 8 C. I don't want everything freezing out there, just bearable. If I have to do any work in the garage I crank it up a bit earlier than when I go out. A sand battery to collect exhaust heat is probably next...
i and relate with the size of your garage. i have a 15' wide 35' long garage under my house that is half underground and half daylight. i run into air circulation, heating, cooling, and humidity problems. not a typical size for the north eastern american "one car garage"
Nah would work great for a smaller "room sized" workshop or something...think in reverse, what would it take to cool a particular room, if a 6-10K BTU window unit would cool it, this thing would heat it
About the only thing those heaters are really good for are installations into an RV, other than that the spaces in a home, shop, garage, shed, etc. are way too large for those heaters to ever properly heat and maintain a temperature that would be comfortable.
Thise diesel heaters are only good for like a camper on a truck bed or camping tents of about 4 to 6 people tent. Not a bad g space at all. Which you already knew that. Excellent demonstration video proves the point.
Agreed we use 4 of them here. Anything bigger then a fully insulated 10 x 10ish setup is just a waste of time. We use one in a 16 x 16 living room but only to maintain the temp not to heat it up at all.
If one gallon of diesel fuel creates137,381 Btu, then you can divide 137,381 by the number of hours it takes to burn one gallon of fuel. Then subtract 35% from that number because of the heat lost through the exhaust pipe. That's how many Btu you are getting. So, probably around 12,000 - 14,000.
Meh, like 15% lost from exhaust pipe. I threw a 10ft exhaust pipe on my heater. After about 7ft it’s tolerably warm to touch. There are videos on YT that show how to make it damn near 99% efficient by extracting the exhaust heat and running the combustion intake from outside.
There’s no such thing as 8kw diesel heater. There’s only the 3kw and 5kw. They don’t use enough fuel to generate 8kw. What you have is a 5kw falsely labeled 8kw because the average person is not going to verify output…
I'm no expert but the cement floor I'm Shure is cold witch in turn don't help tryin to heat from cold, I bet once everything comes to temp and maintain then you will notice a difference. Just a thought. I had an old house basement wasn't heated the rest of the house heated furnace ran constantly changed once I heated the basement, furnace didn't run quit as mutch after their is a lot to take in affecting things and temp. Best a luck.
Hey if you do a follow up I have another scenario for you to test, if you use the big furnace to heat up the area first will the small diesel one sustain it or at least keep it within a few degrees of what you heated it up with the big furnace so you don't have to run the big one so much which I would imagine would save money.
They are rated at 8 kw which converted is about 27000 btu so yes It would heat a 1 bay garage to a decent temp, no it will not replace a large home grade furnace but for a portable heater that's pretty good if you ask me I bought one and I'm going to use it for my 1 car garage most of the time and if I want to heat my ice hut well guess what I'm taking aha
Those are about 5KW or less, which is about 17,000 btu which is good for about 800 square ft. according to a heat chart. I can heat two stalls of my 3 stall insulated shop just fine (I just block off the third stall with a roll down tarp) Once you get the shop and all its contents (vehicles and tool, etc) it doesn't take much to maintain the heat. I don't use my shop every day so I have to initially warm it up with a torpedo style heater first, then let the diesel heater take over and keep it warm.
they work amazing in campers and vans like they are ment for. i have one for my camper. keeps it 65+ in sub 0. we also have one that runs 24/7 in our big shop. keeps it about 10 degrees warmer then the outside
On setting H2 of 6, it burns 1 gallon in about 27 hours. Mine runs 24/7 and gets refueled on the run. I burn red off road non taxed diesel fuel. The thermal mass is rarely mentioned. When I'm gone for a few days, it takes about 30 hours to get tons of walls, furniture, drywall, tile, bricks, and ceiling back up to temperature to where it feels warm enough to function in a tee shirt with no discomfort.
If you had insulation and ran that unit for a whole 24 hours, it would get the garage up to temp... also what helps these little units is to run a length of 3 inch duct pipe along the center of the ceiling with 1 inch holes every 3 feet, cap the end and connect the unit to the other end, it will distribute the heat more efficiently....the goal is to get it to temp, then unit won't struggle to maintain the temp
D'ont forget that your place is full of items and most of them or steel that its takes time to heat theme too and your thermometers are all set on steel or iron items
Guy is clueless lol. Lived in a bus all last winter on the great lakes. Couldnt even run ours on high for any length of time because it was a sauna. These things are amazing
I have a vevor heater like that and I heat my garage using it. It's very fuel efficient but takes a while to get the garage heated up and it never gets it very warm. Definitely gets it warmer than nothing though. I had run a propane heater before and it gets it very warm but it stinks and the propane tank doesn't last long and it freezes up so I have to run an electric space heater pointed at the tank
Yep, I use a propane heater to warm the garage and used to use electric milk house heaters to maintain temp. The plan is to use two diesel heaters to replace the electric. The wife can't stand the propane smell, so there's an advantage to using the propane too!!!
The garage is completely full of metal and everything else. Need to give it some time to climatize. Good video just give it some time to hold some heat and slowly increase in temp. Maybe even add a fan to the back of the room to circulate air.
If you ran the exhaust through an old radiator of some kind before sending the fumes outside? I mean, the thing has a blower fan so bad gasses are for sure sent outside. Put a fan on the rad. See what happens!
Mine heated 22x22 insulated garage to 20c and -12c temp outside , a 32 celcious diff in temp from in o outside , took a couple hours though to bring up temp 20c in garage from frozen!
So with thermometers laying on metal equipment, you expected to get your poorly insulated "All American Garage" 310 sq ft garage to a comfortable temperature after ONE hour of operation. Got it. How high did you crank it up? with all that junk in your garage, even If you cranked it to the Max it still wouldn't have got you to (lets say) 60F within an Hour.
I would think that at 10x30 is only 300sq ft and it should not take a lot to heat it, if it is not heating it up maybe you need more airflow or air movement, general rule of thumb for BTU"S 12,000 BTU's is = 1 ton and or 3.5KW and 1 ton is rated at 500-800 sq foot in the far northern zone its required to rate it at 60 BTUS per sqr foot, and that would be 18,000 BTUS anything else would be overkill but a plus for sure when you have no insulation, my thoughts are insulate it and maybe install a sheet plastin barrier and i get with 80,000 BTU furnce will cook you out of the garage
I think for your application a wood stove would be the way to go. Course even if you insulated that whole garage that tiny heater isn't going to do much good, and wouldn't do any good at all if it were below zero, even running that heater 24/7 would never get it to a decent working temperature. My shop isn't insulated, and not heated, and it don't even have a floor, heating it is pretty near impossible you'd spend your whole annual income on whatever fuel you went with and it would never be warm...as nice as it would be to heat, there's way too much money that would be involved in making it remotely feasible to do so....and the only marginally affordable solution would be a wood stove after the building was insulated, and finished inside and a floor installed.
Can you do an experiment for me? Buy a Stirling engine and see if the heat source from the cheap Chinese Diesel heater will run a Stirling generator and make electricity.
These are not 8000 watt, from what I heard the 8kw is misrepresented. They same as a 5kw unit from what I have heard physical difference minor, only slightly larger duct size is what I have heard body size almost identical to a 5kw. If you adjust for max fuel flow for diesel fuel you have 138,700 BTU's per gal at 100% combustion efficiency. I would use 82-85% max combustion efficiency realistically. With some math you will find they put out max around 16,500 BTU on average max for the 5KW sized units and falsely claimed 8kw rated units from what i understand only tiny bit larger on duct size only. Figure best combustion efficiency wont top 85-87 combustion efficiency, although way they burn is bit different than traditional oil burner design, still figure largest lost out the stack for oil burners thats anywhere between 20% to 15% heat loss up the stack. That's a heck of a lot more BTU's than any typical electric heater and way less costly to operate for a shop heater. Still way cheaper to operate than other options like electric heaters. I just ordered one of these for 20 by 10 shed in New England. Wish I had seen this pellet stove for under $500 before I did order for diesel heater. Pellet stove named Castle Serenity Wood Pellet Stove just saw online new for $415, rated for 31,960 btu, Think I will like the diesel heater once I add insulation, time will tell. Been watching and eyeing everyone's experiences.
From the looking through the video. It would take some time to heat all the objects you have. lots of metal to warm up. From bone cold, gonna be hard on it.
I agree with Cire3pc, not a fair review, you need to give the heater a chance, it’s not going heat everything up in an hour considering everything is radiating 40 degrees not to mention your blowing the heat over a concrete ice berg, get the heater off the floor and see what it does and give it some time. Then do a test.
1kw = 3412btu, therfore your 5kw to 8kw heater wil give you 17060btu to 27296btu, thermometers should be hung in free space, not laid on top of cold surfaces for more accurate measurements, the thermometers used will be giving you the temperature of the material of the surface that you have laid them upon.
It's 8kw not BTU from what I have researched that is equal to 27000btu which isn't far from the minimum BTU you said would be adequate for heating your garage.
your not taking in the fact that you have a lot of things in the garage that has acclimated to the cold temperatures . this will effect the heating time drastically. and almost making it impossible to give the heater an honest review.
Yep heating and cooling are kinda backwards from each other. Put your heat on the outside walls and have it blow in. But ac works better when it's in the interior part of the house and "pushes" the hot air back where it came from (leaky windows for example)
@@redneckcomputergeek I have a pellet stove in the living room, it's my only heat source. So there's a couple of fans to blow the air to the room exit , and a couple to blow it down the hall and to the kitchen. If I keep the living room at 75-77 when it's 20 out , it's 68 in the bedroom at the end of the hall on the left. Yeah man , try some fans. Even 55 isn't too bad in there , our heated area of our shop we keep at 61.
It's not 8,000 BTU's. It's 8,000 Watts, which is over 27,000 BTU's. If you need 30,000 BTU's, is almost there. Also, you were laying the thermometer directly on the cold tractor. You weren't even measuring air temperature. This is a horribly executed experiment!
True but, harsh.
Truth hurts
Nope, good experience and experiment
You are right, but so is he. It's too small I use one of these with a 80k but diesel salamander/torpedo heater. The big heater get everything up to temp and the little heater maintains it for a while so I dont go deaf with that loud heater running all day.
The state of the garage is a clue......🧐
You're grasp of thermodynamics is breathtaking. Breathtaking.
Suspend your thermometers as they are placed on cold objects. The cold objects need to heat up to ambient air temperature so it takes a while.
The room itself is easy to warm up. Heating up all your stuff or cold cars takes a lot more time and energy.
Hello. I have had one for 3 years. It works flawless. It is too small to heat up my 24 x 24 garage here in North East Ontario when its -20C or lower, but it takes the edge off. I will probably be moving it into my 1973 rebuilt camper for hunting. Stay safe.
To heat 576 sq ft with a diesel heater is a challenge. Totally depends on whether or not it's insulated, and how well. One of the problems with heating a garage, is that you're not just heating the air in the garage, you're heating up everything in the garage. If you've got ... literally, a ton of metal in the garage, then you are also heating that up too. The BTUs' required to heat a ton of metal 40 degrees C, is huge. After I dragged all my tool boxes into my workshop, I noticed that it was way, way slower to heat up, but also way, way slower too cool down. I have no problem heating a 220 sq ft insulated workshop, with the diesel heater, inside a 1,000 sq ft quonset style garage. But, that also means that the workshop has no wind load. I've also got a 740 sq ft garage that's insulated, ( except for the concrete floor), that has a 40,000 BTU propane heater. At - 30 ( F, or C.. about the same temp).. It takes all of the 40,000 BTUs' to slowly warm it up. About three hours to get to 20 C. from - 20 C. I usually boot up a 70,000 BTU forced air Diesel heater to quickly boost the temp, and then just go with the propane. As the forced air diesel heater ( a Remington ) uses free air inside the garage, running it excessively, without a window cracked open, will give you a head ache, as it does consume oxygen from the interior of the garage. There are ways to maximise the output of a diesel heater.. Run it on outside air for combustion, run the exhaust through the building inside before the exhaust exits the building, etc. But at the end of the day, there is only so much heat that can be extracted from a litre of Diesel.
It really should do the trick. Once it's caught up, it should maintain.
I close my house down during the winter and only live in a 12x32 section. I'm in NY and I keep the place between 60-70f all winter with 1.5kw.
Even in the cold spell, reaching down to -28f, a few weeks ago, I was able to keep above 60f
Thank you for doing this and thank you to all the contributors with their helpful comments! Cheers :)
Don’t expect something in one hour when there’s so much cold metals around, you should run it at least for half day till all stuff around gets warmer and after all you should see results
I have the exact same model as well but my shop is 80 ft x 40 ft with a concrete slab .I use it in combination with a couple of small electric heaters and two fans blowing from opposite sides of the shop and it works pretty decent overall .
I didn't buy it for heating up the entire shop and had no illusions that it would do it alone .I got it for the flexibility to be able to use other fuels if need be . I can see it being handy as a SHTF tool or for camping or heating up a smaller building like a greenhouse or a shed etc .
I used mine to see how well it would heat my shed which is 20 X 12 and it worked out awesome .
IMO if you want to heat up a large shop such as what I have or the one you're using ,a wood stove like a rocket stove using thermal mass or a gasifier would be the way to go assuming you have access to wood which obviously not everyone does .
Aside from that an oil drip heater would also be effective for heating up a large space quickly and without the need to run the oil through a filter .
I've seen videos where people have used old unfiltered oil this particular heater but it's definitely not a good idea unless you enjoy taking things apart or replacing parts all the time .
My take on it is for what it does and for the price it's not a bad investment .I got mine through an EBay seller and feel like I got what I paid for and more .
The build quality is actually pretty decent and the whole process from start to finish was excellent .
80 ft ? Wow that´s big. You need a big propane heater.
Great video! the diesel heater sounds like o good idea. i have a 12 foot x 16 foot shed/workshop that i am looking at heating. love watching your videos. :)
I just recently learned about these through tick tock and now you got one. heard they were good heaters
I have a 20x30 garage with a 2nd floor, and it seems to warm it up pretty well, it does take a while though, and I have the 2nd floor blocked off with a sheet. Of course it wasn't super cold and windy when I tested, but still much better than having electric run to the garage and having all that set up, at least for now.
Great video brother thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise and hello from Detroit Michigan brother thank you and happy new year
My Dad actually uses one of those heaters to heat the house. Well, not necessarily heat the house, but to help keep it warm. He put it in our unfinished basement and ran a dryer heater duct vent from the basement to the kitchen. He connected a 1" metal pipe to the exhaust hose and to our wood burner in the basement to let the exhaust escape outside. Then he used a very powerful small desk fan he put inside the duct vent to help blow the heat around.
It doesn't WARM the house, but it does keep it warm enough that our furnace doesn't kick on every time someone opens the kitchen door. It keeps the thermostat at or above the temperature set so the furnace don't kick on.
It actually worked wayy better than I thought and saved us a lot of money by not burning the fuel our furnace uses..
Same for me and not using the power to run the furnace also.
Thank you !!! I was going to pull the trigger on one for my 60 yr old uninsulated garage. 14 by 20. Would have been a waste of money I am in Nova Scotia.
Thank you bub! I needed to hear that . Great vid.
I tell ya couple years ago I scored on a Rannai FC824P (propane ventless) for my 2-car semi-insulated garage… it’s freakin amazing. Though they are real pricey and then there’s the cost of propane…. All things considered everything seems like a trade-off/compromise to a proper furnace (like yours) maybe even a mini-split ( but no experience there). Good, reliable heat is gonna cost you whether it’s the initial outlay or the long haul imo.
A couple of thoughts... Not really a fair test of the capabilities of the heater. By the looks of the garage, there must be several thousand pounds of metal in there. This mass acts as a heat sink, and will severely slow down the heating process in the garage. How many BTU to raise 2 tons of metal 40 degrees F, would be a question for someone who knows better than I do. I heat my workshop to 20 C , or, if you prefer, 70 F, with no issues, but I did notice it was slower to heat up after I moved in a ton of tool boxes and heavy metal benches. 3.5 MHZ to heat it up, 1.7 to 2.3 MHZ to keep it toasty, depending on ambient temps ( 22 x 10 insulated ).
A fairer test would have been to let it run until there was no temperature raise in over 2 hours.
I also noticed that you don't have it set up for drawing air from outside for combustion. This inherently reduced the efficiency of the unit. Every cubic foot of air exhausted from the garage, requires a cubic foot of air to be sucked in from the outside through all unsealed construction. The colder it is outside, the less efficient the heater is. Not that the heater becomes less efficient, but rather that the forced ingress of cold outside air negatively impacts fuel consumption, and heating capability.
You are correct about not drawing the air from an outside source. He's creating negative pressure for one and if this is Chinese, it's more than likely at a guess not 8kw, its probably more like 4-5kw so the heater and how he's using it is probably doing what it can. His working out of BTUs is quite alot out.
Yup on 8kW in 5x6x2,8M non insulated garage (only ceiling is insulated with 10cm of mineral wool) can "take the edge off" by rising temperature by 5-10*C (depending how long I'll have it turned on). I will have to insulate to work comfortable there during winter.
Good to see a proper input of these heater's they're starting to bum and blow about them over here. Wood stove or a reillo oil burner and a 50gallon drum if the oil's cheap ? 28second burns cleaner . 💯👍🤟
I have a 30x24 garage and I ran it all winter long. Sides insulated only kept my garage around 38 degrees all winter long. Did a decent job but in the end I went with my mr buddy 30k btu heater With a fan above it and I gotta say it works much better but the downside is i can’t run it 24/7 just when the cars need to get the snow and salt melted off.
Happy new year! Great to no about the heater!
My ve vor diesel heating my garage -15 deg c, out. Fully insulated 750sqft 3 car garage. Keeps it at 8deg C perfect for working! Takes 4 liters per day on 1 bar on the controller
I was looking at these a few weeks ago prior to a cold snap; definitely has some potential and probably cheaper than I could make anything that I'd also run in my house. Planning to run the exhaust right up the chimney, which our family room was converted by the previous owner in the 80s from a garage, though it was never plumbed into the central HVAC system. Gets dramatically cooler in winter than the rest of the house even with double wide doors acting as a temperature sink.
For me, I'd thin out my waste motor oil from my forge supply with either some kerosene or a bit of acetone.
Your not far off from what I was debating. I was doing the math the other day. Between cars trucks and mowers just my own stuff let alone flip machines. I end up with 10 to 15 gallons of waste oil. Running out of stumps to burn out and not a fan of drip heaters.
Smart idea
I tried using diluted motor oil in one of those. It clogged up the burner, don't do it.
@@joepalazzo91 It needs to be thinned with a very particular solvent but I've been blasting WVO through tiny orifices' under high pressure for years, just gotta know the secret sauces!
@@joepalazzo91 Ok. Thanks !!!
I tend to agree with you, my garage is well insulated, similar size to yours and if the weather is mild say 5 or 6 deg C it's fairly OK especially if you are close to it but it never really gets it hot, my 12kw wood burner gets the place like toast very quickly, it is good for a short visit to the garage when you don't want to set a fire.
I use a pair of 1500W electric heaters in my 20x20 garage (partially underground, cinder block walls, concrete slab, living space above, basement attached). It takes about 2 hours of full running to raise the temperature in the space from 32F to 55F (sometimes better). I can make it warm enough that i'm ditching sweat shirts and long sleeves. something tells me one of these little diesel heaters might do a more efficient job, especially if I make it run on waste oils.
People seem to forget that all material things, which in a garage, consist largely of metal, takes in allot of cold and takes time to heat up. Thermal camera would show the variances.
For that size you need at least 2 5kw heaters for that and depending on how drafty it is you should get good warmth in there but just one I would say no. Also consider insulation for the walls.
What is that metal fixing on the garage door at 0.24 seconds called? I need one for my garage.
Thanks
would this work with a wooden garage door?
Question? 11hp Briggs Snapper rear engine. Where do I get rings?
From what i understand, everything needs to be heated for a while, before numbers are posted..all contents of your shop are cold, radiating cold.
These were designed mainly for truckers, boats, motor homes, campers, van-lifers, etc...not a garage. Sure you can use them anywhere and Suze of space is everything. If it takes the chill out.. good. I've seen lots of people use these in garages and they've Said it may take several hrs to warm up their area to like 70 degrees.. but it worked for them.
So as others pointed out it’s 8 kW not BTUs. Which puts you quite close to the required BTUs. You have a lot of mass in that garage acting as a thermal battery, I have no doubt you could get it to 55+ once everything has warmed up. I also would not point the output at the ground as you’re going to get a lot of lost energy to the ground/concrete that could go towards heating up the air.
Didn't he say he said he needed 60,000 BTUs? 8KW is only 27,000
my garage is his size and 2 of those heaters keeps it toasty...he might need to insulate better@@koitorob
I'm running an 8kw heater in my garage a few hours a day. I'm trying to keep it around 7 or 8 C. I don't want everything freezing out there, just bearable. If I have to do any work in the garage I crank it up a bit earlier than when I go out.
A sand battery to collect exhaust heat is probably next...
hi i have a shed all insullet is a 8x12 so do it wood heat my shed wend it do -25 or 30 out
Been looking at these for a while i think it will heat my 14x19 home gym thats is decently insulated
i and relate with the size of your garage. i have a 15' wide 35' long garage under my house that is half underground and half daylight. i run into air circulation, heating, cooling, and humidity problems. not a typical size for the north eastern american "one car garage"
RCG for life!
Thank You for the truth
It’s just a dream and fad
Such a waste of money
Nah would work great for a smaller "room sized" workshop or something...think in reverse, what would it take to cool a particular room, if a 6-10K BTU window unit would cool it, this thing would heat it
About the only thing those heaters are really good for are installations into an RV, other than that the spaces in a home, shop, garage, shed, etc. are way too large for those heaters to ever properly heat and maintain a temperature that would be comfortable.
Thise diesel heaters are only good for like a camper on a truck bed or camping tents of about 4 to 6 people tent. Not a bad g space at all. Which you already knew that. Excellent demonstration video proves the point.
Agreed we use 4 of them here. Anything bigger then a fully insulated 10 x 10ish setup is just a waste of time. We use one in a 16 x 16 living room but only to maintain the temp not to heat it up at all.
You also have a bunch of stuff to warm up it would be fine for a Arizona room 10 x 20 in Arizona
How long was the heater running when you measured the temperatures inside the garage ?
If one gallon of diesel fuel creates137,381 Btu, then you can divide 137,381 by the number of hours it takes to burn one gallon of fuel. Then subtract 35% from that number because of the heat lost through the exhaust pipe. That's how many Btu you are getting. So, probably around 12,000 - 14,000.
Meh, like 15% lost from exhaust pipe. I threw a 10ft exhaust pipe on my heater. After about 7ft it’s tolerably warm to touch. There are videos on YT that show how to make it damn near 99% efficient by extracting the exhaust heat and running the combustion intake from outside.
There’s no such thing as 8kw diesel heater. There’s only the 3kw and 5kw. They don’t use enough fuel to generate 8kw. What you have is a 5kw falsely labeled 8kw because the average person is not going to verify output…
I'm no expert but the cement floor I'm Shure is cold witch in turn don't help tryin to heat from cold, I bet once everything comes to temp and maintain then you will notice a difference. Just a thought. I had an old house basement wasn't heated the rest of the house heated furnace ran constantly changed once I heated the basement, furnace didn't run quit as mutch after their is a lot to take in affecting things and temp. Best a luck.
saved me money thanks!!
Hey if you do a follow up I have another scenario for you to test, if you use the big furnace to heat up the area first will the small diesel one sustain it or at least keep it within a few degrees of what you heated it up with the big furnace so you don't have to run the big one so much which I would imagine would save money.
Suppose you just want to keep the garage dry and above freezing ??
I wish I would seen your video before I bought mine I have the exact same one. I have 651 sqft I tried to heat and I only got 6 degrees of heat.
What was the screw in thing where the pipe goes through your door Where's it from? Cheers
Yes, they put out heat, but not that much compared to a Mr. Buddy for example. Depends on outside air temp (unless recirculating)
They are rated at 8 kw which converted is about 27000 btu so yes It would heat a 1 bay garage to a decent temp, no it will not replace a large home grade furnace but for a portable heater that's pretty good if you ask me I bought one and I'm going to use it for my 1 car garage most of the time and if I want to heat my ice hut well guess what I'm taking aha
Those are about 5KW or less, which is about 17,000 btu which is good for about 800 square ft. according to a heat chart. I can heat two stalls of my 3 stall insulated shop just fine (I just block off the third stall with a roll down tarp) Once you get the shop and all its contents (vehicles and tool, etc) it doesn't take much to maintain the heat. I don't use my shop every day so I have to initially warm it up with a torpedo style heater first, then let the diesel heater take over and keep it warm.
You have a lot of thermal mass in there to heat up. It will probably get there but it will take a while. How long did you let it run?
they work amazing in campers and vans like they are ment for. i have one for my camper. keeps it 65+ in sub 0. we also have one that runs 24/7 in our big shop. keeps it about 10 degrees warmer then the outside
There is definitely a lot of thermal mass to heat up initially. Would be interesting to see how much fuel it takes to keep a garage warm.
On setting H2 of 6, it burns 1 gallon in about 27 hours. Mine runs 24/7 and gets refueled on the run. I burn red off road non taxed diesel fuel. The thermal mass is rarely mentioned. When I'm gone for a few days, it takes about 30 hours to get tons of walls, furniture, drywall, tile, bricks, and ceiling back up to temperature to where it feels warm enough to function in a tee shirt with no discomfort.
Well at least you got The information on how to heat up your garage to a comfortable temperature 🌡️
If you had insulation and ran that unit for a whole 24 hours, it would get the garage up to temp... also what helps these little units is to run a length of 3 inch duct pipe along the center of the ceiling with 1 inch holes every 3 feet, cap the end and connect the unit to the other end, it will distribute the heat more efficiently....the goal is to get it to temp, then unit won't struggle to maintain the temp
D'ont forget that your place is full of items and most of them or steel that its takes time to heat theme too and your thermometers are all set on steel or iron items
Guy is clueless lol. Lived in a bus all last winter on the great lakes. Couldnt even run ours on high for any length of time because it was a sauna. These things are amazing
I have a vevor heater like that and I heat my garage using it. It's very fuel efficient but takes a while to get the garage heated up and it never gets it very warm. Definitely gets it warmer than nothing though. I had run a propane heater before and it gets it very warm but it stinks and the propane tank doesn't last long and it freezes up so I have to run an electric space heater pointed at the tank
Yep, I use a propane heater to warm the garage and used to use electric milk house heaters to maintain temp. The plan is to use two diesel heaters to replace the electric. The wife can't stand the propane smell, so there's an advantage to using the propane too!!!
You ran it for a couple hours then made your conclusion?
These would work fine if you could maintain a base line temperature and were only raising the temeperature.
My garage stays above freezing the now just melts off the car but then again one wall is attached to the house
The garage is completely full of metal and everything else. Need to give it some time to climatize. Good video just give it some time to hold some heat and slowly increase in temp. Maybe even add a fan to the back of the room to circulate air.
Still not gonna work
If you ran the exhaust through an old radiator of some kind before sending the fumes outside? I mean, the thing has a blower fan so bad gasses are for sure sent outside. Put a fan on the rad. See what happens!
8000btu can only heat max 300 sq feet comfortably in insulated enclosure.. They work well!
Mine heated 22x22 insulated garage to 20c and -12c temp outside , a 32 celcious diff in temp from in o outside , took a couple hours though to bring up temp 20c in garage from frozen!
Use 1500 watt body shop inferred force drying lamps. They heat you, not the air. The spillage will heat the air.
So with thermometers laying on metal equipment, you expected to get your poorly insulated "All American Garage" 310 sq ft garage to a comfortable temperature after ONE hour of operation. Got it.
How high did you crank it up? with all that junk in your garage, even If you cranked it to the Max it still wouldn't have got you to (lets say) 60F within an Hour.
Is there any in-depth videos out there showing how to wire these heaters to a wall outlet if that’s even possible?
Use a 12 volt 15 Amp DC power supply in place oof the 12 volt battery.
Yep, a yard sale, “manual” 12v 15 amp battery charger would fit the bill:)
I think i saw one video on here claiming to use an Xbox power pack.
I absolutely agree that this video is just a bunch oh hot air.
Yup after seeing 4 or 5 BS they paid me to say it works videos. I wanted to get a reality video out there for people.
I would think that at 10x30 is only 300sq ft and it should not take a lot to heat it, if it is not heating it up maybe you need more airflow or air movement, general rule of thumb for BTU"S 12,000 BTU's is = 1 ton and or 3.5KW and 1 ton is rated at 500-800 sq foot in the far northern zone its required to rate it at 60 BTUS per sqr foot, and that would be 18,000 BTUS anything else would be overkill but a plus for sure when you have no insulation, my thoughts are insulate it and maybe install a sheet plastin barrier and i get with 80,000 BTU furnce will cook you out of the garage
Agreed, it's simple mathematics, and science, will not heat up a garage of your size, but a small room, say 10x10 good insulation say r45, yes.
Is there anyway this could use waste oil. I work for a company that produces alot of waste oil and fuel would be free if it could.
Just make an oil burner. There are hundreds of videos showing you how to
fairly easy math: 35-45 BTU per square foot assuming 8' ceiling in an insulated space. Your CDH is likely putting out about 20k BTU.
I think for your application a wood stove would be the way to go. Course even if you insulated that whole garage that tiny heater isn't going to do much good, and wouldn't do any good at all if it were below zero, even running that heater 24/7 would never get it to a decent working temperature. My shop isn't insulated, and not heated, and it don't even have a floor, heating it is pretty near impossible you'd spend your whole annual income on whatever fuel you went with and it would never be warm...as nice as it would be to heat, there's way too much money that would be involved in making it remotely feasible to do so....and the only marginally affordable solution would be a wood stove after the building was insulated, and finished inside and a floor installed.
A 240v small square construction heater will do it. Jist not cheaply
I found the same results.
Can you do an experiment for me? Buy a Stirling engine and see if the heat source from the cheap Chinese Diesel heater will run a Stirling generator and make electricity.
Laying a thermometer on a surface means you're getting the temperature of those surfaces, not the air temperature.
These are not 8000 watt, from what I heard the 8kw is misrepresented. They same as a 5kw unit from what I have heard physical difference minor, only slightly larger duct size is what I have heard body size almost identical to a 5kw. If you adjust for max fuel flow for diesel fuel you have 138,700 BTU's per gal at 100% combustion efficiency. I would use 82-85% max combustion efficiency realistically. With some math you will find they put out max around 16,500 BTU on average max for the 5KW sized units and falsely claimed 8kw rated units from what i understand only tiny bit larger on duct size only. Figure best combustion efficiency wont top 85-87 combustion efficiency, although way they burn is bit different than traditional oil burner design, still figure largest lost out the stack for oil burners thats anywhere between 20% to 15% heat loss up the stack. That's a heck of a lot more BTU's than any typical electric heater and way less costly to operate for a shop heater. Still way cheaper to operate than other options like electric heaters. I just ordered one of these for 20 by 10 shed in New England. Wish I had seen this pellet stove for under $500 before I did order for diesel heater. Pellet stove named Castle Serenity Wood Pellet Stove just saw online new for $415, rated for 31,960 btu, Think I will like the diesel heater once I add insulation, time will tell. Been watching and eyeing everyone's experiences.
To be honest you have lots of stuff to absorb the heat before the temperature goes up.
I bet 2 would do it.
Man your place is full of metal
From the looking through the video. It would take some time to heat all the objects you have. lots of metal to warm up. From bone cold, gonna be hard on it.
Agreed that was why I made the review. Was sick of seeing all the paid to claim it works videos.
I agree with Cire3pc, not a fair review, you need to give the heater a chance, it’s not going heat everything up in an hour considering everything is radiating 40 degrees not to mention your blowing the heat over a concrete ice berg, get the heater off the floor and see what it does and give it some time. Then do a test.
Thats the the size of the btu. a 1500 watt heater would be 5k btu. so it better for no power solution.
8kw is not 8k btu. It’s 27k btu. Generally these are 5kw or 8kw units.
1kw = 3412btu, therfore your 5kw to 8kw heater wil give you 17060btu to 27296btu, thermometers should be hung in free space, not laid on top of cold surfaces for more accurate measurements, the thermometers used will be giving you the temperature of the material of the surface that you have laid them upon.
Get an old steam radiator, and run the exhaust thru it to outside, I bought a 17 foot exhaust pipe.
Why waste all that good heat!
You have a link to the type of steam radiaotr you used, to capture and use the heat from the output line ?
@@davehimlin2374 Give a call to a junk yard, to see how much they cost.
@@davehimlin2374 Does he mean a hot water radiator?
It's 8kw not BTU from what I have researched that is equal to 27000btu which isn't far from the minimum BTU you said would be adequate for heating your garage.
You are not only heating the garage space but also everything in it. It will take a long time to heat all the metal up.
You should really hang your thermometers.... you want to measure air temperature not surface temperature by laying on the cold items like you did
8kw
your not taking in the fact that you have a lot of things in the garage that has acclimated to the cold temperatures . this will effect the heating time drastically. and almost making it impossible to give the heater an honest review.
Blow the cold air towards the heat source. Old trick for RV's.
Yep heating and cooling are kinda backwards from each other.
Put your heat on the outside walls and have it blow in.
But ac works better when it's in the interior part of the house and "pushes" the hot air back where it came from (leaky windows for example)
Your input and a few others have me thinking on a follow up video trying all the ideas.
@@redneckcomputergeek I have a pellet stove in the living room, it's my only heat source.
So there's a couple of fans to blow the air to the room exit , and a couple to blow it down the hall and to the kitchen.
If I keep the living room at 75-77 when it's 20 out , it's 68 in the bedroom at the end of the hall on the left.
Yeah man , try some fans.
Even 55 isn't too bad in there , our heated area of our shop we keep at 61.
8kW is 27,297 BTU.
If a man from China says it's 8k, it's probably 4k max.
The garage is way to big for this unit for sure !!
A 5kw heater is not 5000 btu's. it actually computes out to 17,060 btu's. An 8kw heater is 22,296 btu's.
Erm, no.
1 kW = 3412.142 BTU/hr