Awesome you are very kind . I think this is the way to go. Love the information now I can get what I need and the Information to identify my burner is helpful
No such thing as 8KW the heater would have to be bigger and the fan will have to run faster to give more combustion The German machine is called a 4kw so they don't get taken to court. The Chinese manufacturer don't mind misleading the puplic they get away with it. These heaters are not designed to burn rubbish oil the atomiser just doesn't let it happen.
Spot on! When will people simply look at the specifications? Has anyone seen any reports where nearly a litre per hour is used? Of course not. The chinese clearly demonstrate that a lot of people can easily be conned by lying.
Thanks for great series. keep it up. i am working thruogh the same issues you are. My current setup is 20% gas 80% used oil. It clogged up yesterday so when i had burner out i cut 2 inches off the end of burn chamber and it ran good yesterday for 5hrs. I now only run it on high, I was getting 210c burner temp on the controller. I have the same controller you do.My goal is to get to 200hrs run time between cleanings.
Absolutely spot on kerosene has no lubrication and diesel fuel does diesel fuel has around 139,000 BTUs in a gallon kerosene starts with 118,000 BTUs a gallon so you’re paying a lot more money and you’re getting less heat and regular fuel oil home heating oil is probably cheaper than the diesel and kerosene k1 and it contains 144,000 BTUs in a gallon😍 the waste oil contains about 3000 BTUs more per gallon than home heating #2 fuel❤️🔥🇺🇸❤️🔥🇺🇸 Thanks for the video
Norm, great update. I modified my burn chamber (tube) to open the area around the burner to prevent the hard deposits from collected and plugging the burner. I’m still burning 70/30 WMO/E85 and been running for 3 days without any errors/cleaning. I’ll make an updated video this weekend.
@@SAIDias Thanks for that info. So, you wouldn't be able to run your original, unmodified heater on a 70/30 blend without big issues. Thanks for clarifying, since your 1st two heater videos don't mention combustion chamber modifications, only how good the heater runs on WMO/E85, which may have misled a lot of people.
I watched (do not remember which U-Tuber) Synthetic oil gums up as does Vegetable oil due to low burn temp. Not a nuff BTUs. So, try start and end unit burn w/ Diesel and a 25% Diesel in all oil mixtures. He is an Irish or North England fellow. I had not yet tested, just got my 1st Ch-Diesle but watching a lot. Keep educating us and thks!
Here's more info on fuels I've tried in the UK spec Vevo 5kW unit, with stock settings (with the controller-new type, late 2022, without the antenna signal indicator): Best fuel, most heat, Kerosene=heating oil=jetA1=paraffin Diesel, red or standard next best Brake fluid, DOT3 diluted with 10% petrol next best Old dirty engine oil diluted 20% with unleaded petrol next best Transmission fluid/old gearbox oil diluted with 10% petrol next (but smelly), no smoke. Old gunwash thinners with 10% old engine oil to give it some lube properties not very good Old petrol with 10% old engine oil, also not very good. Acetone, brake and clutch cleaner (trichloroethylene- don't breath the smoke at all) or alcohol/meths don't really work. With all of the hydrocarbons, it is pretty obvious that there is way too much air running through the combustion chamber, because the exhaust pipe gets really hot (wasted heat). The combustion gas is being pushed straight out of the heat exchanger. If you choke the combustion air inlet a little, while still maintaining a lean and clean burn (at max fan speed), the exhaust temp drops while the heat exchanger actually gets a lot hotter. More time for the hot combustion gases to transfer the heat into the heat sink, as the burning gas is moving slower. Oh and throw away the little fuel filter they supply, as it doesn't filter anything! Get a proper fuel filter... If anyone knows how to crack advanced settings on the new controller unit (without antenna signal indicator), please post! 👍🏻😀🇬🇧
I just noticed the length of your exhaust. This is also a reason you have so mutch soot build up. I have had this exact problem with just burning diesel on a 2kw version. To long and to many 90 degree bends. To mutch resistance. My solution was a bigger diameter exhaust pipe. So, same length but less resistance. Completely fixed the issue. Also, at the end of the cold season I burn a few liters of kerosine/petroleum to burn the chamber clean. Working for 3 years now. And greetings from the Netherlands! I'm building a new system to for my house right now. Hoping to burn 50/50 with waste oil. But we will see!
Ahhh that was something that’s been bothering me also. I was thinking should I get bigger exhaust to fix that issue. Well you answered that for me. Thank you 🙏
@@Storman77 That is clearly covered in the instructions - maximum length and maximum bends allowed. The ‘better’ diesel air heater manufacturer’s instructions (not chinese) spell out all these requirements with size increases need.
Thanks for the tests and not throwing in the towel just yet. Wondering if installing it where the flame is burning down vs horizontal (so all the crap goes down vs blocking inlets) would solve that? I had same location. I noticed it was not all around but just on the bottom part of the torch
Have you tried using a larger diameter exhaust tube ? The long extension you have might be causing back pressure which would reduce the air flow coming into the burning chamber making it run rich .??
I find your testing very interesting. But I would think that the viscosity of whatever you use would be critical to the flow in the heater, where you need to match the viscosity of diesel or kero.
Hi Norm, how long running time wise are you getting between having to clean down the heater? Might just be that the "cost" of burning say 20% used oil is you need to clean the heater every week. For some folks, that might be acceptable. So by way of example, my Ford Galaxy has an issue with the Power Steering Rack. Apparently the carbon seals can wear in the rack and when the car is used lots the filter in the power steering system clogs up and starves the power steering pump of fluid causing it to sieze up. New pump is 1K, or about 1600 dollars, dealer only fit. A few months after paying for a new pump, I had the power steering start to jerk on turning which meant it was getting starved of fluid again. So I replaced the filter (£30 / $45) which is basically a plastic bottle with a mesh screen. Problem went away for a month. Bought another filter, pump survived another month. Then I cleaned one of the old filters out by reverse flushing with soap and water, guess what, cleaned filter lasted just under a month. So now the filters get awapped every month with one I cleaned a few weeks before, yeah it's a pain having to replace it but as I do it regularly I'm pretty quick at changing it over, the only cost is my time working on the car and cleaning out the removed filter. And it's way cheaper than fixing it properly by putting in a new steering rack (2K, $3000) in my 12 year old car.
From my understanding there is NO longer a 3 or 4 digit “access code” under the newly complied firmware and it’s just a timer feature. The best solution is just to have an open sourced ESP32 based controller. Besides BLE and WiFi control it will allow for custom features and menus. For the boomers, sorry this is just an inevitably and necessity of customization.
Also with the waste oil instead of diluting it just with diesel add a little bit of lacquer thinner and I mean like a little bit and lacquer thinner as long as you don't get like the VOC shit it's basically acetone mixed with a little bit of tarling and something else I forget but you can look it up there's different types of lacker thinner but like the base one
I really think you need to modify the pulse width(reduce it) to get a longer run time between cleanings. im in the same boat with a maxpeedingrods heater. it has a different control module than any of the vevor. with the vevor you are able to swap the motherboard and control screen and hopefully get the correct module to get into modifying the pump settings. I think its also important to run it max heat on waste oil. Starting and stopping the unit on regular diesel.
the difference i've seen between the 5 and 8 is the controller goes to a higher number, the one i saw went to 8 instead of 6. i just started burning a waste mix tonight 75/25 waste oil/gas, not burning as hot as i'd like. did you need new gaskets every time you take it apart? hoping to not do that to much.
The 5KW and the 8KW are infarct the same heater, it is the settings in the pass worded menu that are different, i have discovered how to turn the settings up on the heaters and the RPM goes as high as 8000Rpm and pulse rate can go as high as 9mhz, i am going to make a video of those setting in my 5Kw heater, also i run my heater on 10% used engine oil and 90% Kerosene and i have had no problems at all in the last 2 years, try 901 or 903 for the three digit code because i read on the interweb what the code was somewhere in my research about these heaters and that number sticks in my mind.
I have tried the same as you, and had the same issues. My understanding is that oil has more energy than diesel, so the problem is you need more air : fuel ratio so if you can find a pump that delivers a smaller volume of fuel per click I would be very interested to hear how you got on.
@@BenVeenstra just FYI the new controllers with blue numbers on the screen cannot be replaced with the older red digit controllers without also swapping the ecu
They are for burning diesel. Either from the tank suppled or from the vehicle fuel tank (if a diesel vehicle). Kerosene (but only 28s Redwood fraction - usual central heating oil does seem to work without pump problems) is used by many, but will produce less heat).
9-8-7 is the only thing i find that does something. and by something i mean it brings you back to the operating screen when you push the ok button after entering 987. all other 3 digit codes ive entered and hit ok on the controller results in nothing happening. it stays on the screen to enter the code. im wondering if you can even access this menu. i dont think ive gone through all the combos yet but im getting there.
I repeat: the 3 digit code is the timer for either timed switch-on , or switch-off. Nothing more. You might notice the decimal point within those three digits - it means xx.x hours (so you can only set those times to the nearest 6 minutes in 99.9 hours!
You access the three digit code with the unit OFF and [pwr] + [OK]. It's different than the timers, although I, too, have not been able to get it to do anything, :(
@@williamkimsherman8944 Yes, I have set the time(s?) while the heater is not running, but the timer function is set either before running (start time later) or while the heater is running (for delayed shut-down). The point was that the three digits + decimal point is for timing purposes, not for delving into reprogramming the fuel:air ratios - which is not available on that type of controller/motherboard combination. I have checked and found the delayed start works, but not used it (as I don’t yet know whether both functions work from one setting). I regularly use the delayed shut-down facility (often later in the evening, when a quick trip to turn on the heater (and then select the timer function) is all that is required for the one hour run-time I have chosen - at the heat output I deem suitable, to maintain a safe over-night temperature). That is basically three operations of the controller - 1) switch on. 2) select the timed shut-down function (two buttons pressed simultaneously) and 3) pressing the up or down button to select the pump speed (maximum of two presses down or three presses for up). I hope that makes its operation clear(er)?
If it's only 3 digits, it shouldn't be that hard to figure out the code. That's only 1000 possibilities max. Btw I FINALLY got enough together to place my order! Prices were starting to go up on them again tho, it was like $75+shipping but after increasing a few times due to less supply and more demand (only 9 left when I placed my order) my total was $101.74 including shipping. I got my small 5 gallon container of oil ready and waiting for first test run when it arrives! It arrived in PA about an hour ago and might get here by end of day tomorrow but should be here by friday at the latest!!!! I'm gonna run it in the 20ftx20ft stone foundation basement for now in hopes that I can turn off 3-4 little electric space heaters. 1 in the basement for sure, and 2 directly above there in the kitchen and dining room. Maybe even the living room space heater if im lucky, since that's only right on the other side of the wall from there and still above the basement. We're currently using about $14/day for our 7 electric space heaters. So if I can cut that in half, I'd be happy as hell!!!!
@@Storman77 one guy actually sat down and tried all 999 codes, unfortunately only 2 do anything at all - one gives an error code and the other just sends you back to the home screen
@@Storman77 that's what I said too lol. I actually ordered a second heater just like you did because the picture on Amazon showed it to have the old style controller. Sadly when it showed up it had the new one
You can buy the type of controller you want on eBay for about $15 but you'll also need the correct motherboard to work with it. I've done this myself to a couple heaters. The correct motherboard runs about $17 US. Then you'll have the ability to change things by getting into the admin settings with the 1688 code.
i can burn around 60-80liter of 70% wvo 20%diesel 10% petrol takes around one week the it blows out and have a big fat coke of carbon in the burnertube.... for the fuel price i just keep cleaning the burner - i preheat the fuel
Try tuning the lcd panel, from the factory these units come with middle of the road stock settings, and they all vary slightly, also different fuels burn at different temps and pulse rates, follow this video and tune the highest and lowest temps and pulse rates, normally it too much fuel causing soot and build up.. czcams.com/video/SmCYQu53umk/video.html
You haven't learned by now that those heaters are not made to burn waste oil. They're diesel heaters, made to burn diesel! Waste oil is dirty, it even says "waste", so why do you think it should burn clean enough for that heater? Are you filtering it? Also, those heaters are NOT 8KW, they are barely 5KW so that's why they are all the same size. They lied about them being 8KW that's all.
Preston it’s the same pump and mother board . To get 8Kw out of that heat exchanger is like getting 800 HP out of a 350. Yes it’s doable but if your a car guy you are fully aware of all the work you would have to do to get 800 hp . Take thousands and well it be to scale about the same here . In order to get the energy in KW out of that unit well it be some feat I assure you. Watch John MK 47 video he does a full scientific analysis and has on about half a dozen of theses units and never gotten oven 5100 watts of heat energy . This heater is modelled after the espar 4kw model and does well I say at that. If I get my hands on a older bigger unit I will post . Thanks and all the best
@@Storman77 Well I saw a guy on CZcams change out the controller and motherboard from a 5k to an 8k and he got about a 15 F degree F increase in output air plus double the fan speed current. Now for the actual truth. Come back with a wetbulb btu output test and results. Anything else is meaningless.
Well that has to be measured which is air speed and temp one meter away from unit . Sounds like he got more but if I recall John had said maybe another gentleman said this but it would be 40 deg of Celsius at a fan rpm of 6500 would be required. Now that was the math . Maybe it’s achievable but that’s 3000 what’s more . Perspective wise let’s just think . Take a 5 kw heater and a 2 kw heater side by side going that’s still not 8Kw . That’s why in my little mind which I will concede lol I don’t physically see how it could pump out 8Kw, maybe they get 6kw . But I will agree to disagree but stay open to the fact I know little much more than I stated so I certainly can be wrong . Thanks you sir
check this norm! www.mrjones.id.au/afterburner/assets/files/UserManual-V3.2.pdf
www.mrjones.id.au/afterburner/pricing.html
Awesome you are very kind . I think this is the way to go. Love the information now I can get what I need and the Information to identify my burner is helpful
No such thing as 8KW the heater would have to be bigger and the fan will have to run faster to give more combustion The German machine is called a 4kw so they don't get taken to court. The Chinese manufacturer don't mind misleading the puplic they get away with it. These heaters are not designed to burn rubbish oil the atomiser just doesn't let it happen.
Spot on! When will people simply look at the specifications? Has anyone seen any reports where nearly a litre per hour is used? Of course not. The chinese clearly demonstrate that a lot of people can easily be conned by lying.
I used to work at Hess oil in the virgin islands. At that refinery kerosene, Diesel and jet fuel were all the same product
Thanks for great series. keep it up. i am working thruogh the same issues you are. My current setup is 20% gas 80% used oil. It clogged up yesterday so when i had burner out i cut 2 inches off the end of burn chamber and it ran good yesterday for 5hrs. I now only run it on high, I was getting 210c burner temp on the controller. I have the same controller you do.My goal is to get to 200hrs run time between cleanings.
Excellent! I needed up making the same modification to the burn chamber. Has been a successful mod.
Great video. Mine has stopped working was smoking and wouldn't start . Got my old one out still works. Will clean other one
Absolutely spot on kerosene has no lubrication and diesel fuel does diesel fuel has around 139,000 BTUs in a gallon kerosene starts with 118,000 BTUs a gallon so you’re paying a lot more money and you’re getting less heat and regular fuel oil home heating oil is probably cheaper than the diesel and kerosene k1 and it contains 144,000 BTUs in a gallon😍 the waste oil contains about 3000 BTUs more per gallon than home heating #2 fuel❤️🔥🇺🇸❤️🔥🇺🇸
Thanks for the video
Norm, great update. I modified my burn chamber (tube) to open the area around the burner to prevent the hard deposits from collected and plugging the burner. I’m still burning 70/30 WMO/E85 and been running for 3 days without any errors/cleaning. I’ll make an updated video this weekend.
In your videos you mentioned a 70/30 blend of WMO/E85, and you mentioned that you had run 50 gallons of this blend without issue. Having problems now?
@@mobiusx8117 not after a number of modifications to the heater.
@@SAIDias Thanks for that info. So, you wouldn't be able to run your original, unmodified heater on a 70/30 blend without big issues. Thanks for clarifying, since your 1st two heater videos don't mention combustion chamber modifications, only how good the heater runs on WMO/E85, which may have misled a lot of people.
how ?
Do you show your mods ? I would gladly try it . Do you mean the washer ring at the bottom? You groves out an area where it plugs up ?
Thanks for the update.
What a cute 😍 little lady dog! 🤗
I watched (do not remember which U-Tuber) Synthetic oil gums up as does Vegetable oil due to low burn temp. Not a nuff BTUs. So, try start and end unit burn w/ Diesel and a 25% Diesel in all oil mixtures. He is an Irish or North England fellow.
I had not yet tested, just got my 1st Ch-Diesle but watching a lot.
Keep educating us and thks!
keep working out the problems/you will get it/thanks much
Here's more info on fuels I've tried in the UK spec Vevo 5kW unit, with stock settings (with the controller-new type, late 2022, without the antenna signal indicator):
Best fuel, most heat, Kerosene=heating oil=jetA1=paraffin
Diesel, red or standard next best
Brake fluid, DOT3 diluted with 10% petrol next best
Old dirty engine oil diluted 20% with unleaded petrol next best
Transmission fluid/old gearbox oil diluted with 10% petrol next (but smelly), no smoke.
Old gunwash thinners with 10% old engine oil to give it some lube properties not very good
Old petrol with 10% old engine oil, also not very good.
Acetone, brake and clutch cleaner (trichloroethylene- don't breath the smoke at all) or alcohol/meths don't really work.
With all of the hydrocarbons, it is pretty obvious that there is way too much air running through the combustion chamber, because the exhaust pipe gets really hot (wasted heat). The combustion gas is being pushed straight out of the heat exchanger. If you choke the combustion air inlet a little, while still maintaining a lean and clean burn (at max fan speed), the exhaust temp drops while the heat exchanger actually gets a lot hotter. More time for the hot combustion gases to transfer the heat into the heat sink, as the burning gas is moving slower.
Oh and throw away the little fuel filter they supply, as it doesn't filter anything! Get a proper fuel filter...
If anyone knows how to crack advanced settings on the new controller unit (without antenna signal indicator), please post! 👍🏻😀🇬🇧
Heck yeah thanks
I just noticed the length of your exhaust. This is also a reason you have so mutch soot build up. I have had this exact problem with just burning diesel on a 2kw version. To long and to many 90 degree bends. To mutch resistance. My solution was a bigger diameter exhaust pipe. So, same length but less resistance. Completely fixed the issue. Also, at the end of the cold season I burn a few liters of kerosine/petroleum to burn the chamber clean. Working for 3 years now. And greetings from the Netherlands! I'm building a new system to for my house right now. Hoping to burn 50/50 with waste oil. But we will see!
Ahhh that was something that’s been bothering me also. I was thinking should I get bigger exhaust to fix that issue. Well you answered that for me. Thank you 🙏
@@Storman77 That is clearly covered in the instructions - maximum length and maximum bends allowed. The ‘better’ diesel air heater manufacturer’s instructions (not chinese) spell out all these requirements with size increases need.
@@oliver90owner in the espar manual . Yes I downloaded it gonna go through it . I only have one bend in set up bigger pipe makes sense
Thanks for the tests and not throwing in the towel just yet. Wondering if installing it where the flame is burning down vs horizontal (so all the crap goes down vs blocking inlets) would solve that? I had same location. I noticed it was not all around but just on the bottom part of the torch
I downloaded the module for an Espar which it’s modelled from and I will see if I can do that if needed.
Have you tried using a larger diameter exhaust tube ? The long extension you have might be causing back pressure which would reduce the air flow coming into the burning chamber making it run rich .??
Good vids, only trouble is half the vid I can't hear! Need to sort your mic, keep them coming 👍
Thanks that is good to know I will work on that for sure .
I find your testing very interesting. But I would think that the viscosity of whatever you use would be critical to the flow in the heater, where you need to match the viscosity of diesel or kero.
Yes which is why I use filtration and kerosene plus preheat the oil before it burns on my other videos
Hi Norm, how long running time wise are you getting between having to clean down the heater? Might just be that the "cost" of burning say 20% used oil is you need to clean the heater every week. For some folks, that might be acceptable. So by way of example, my Ford Galaxy has an issue with the Power Steering Rack. Apparently the carbon seals can wear in the rack and when the car is used lots the filter in the power steering system clogs up and starves the power steering pump of fluid causing it to sieze up. New pump is 1K, or about 1600 dollars, dealer only fit. A few months after paying for a new pump, I had the power steering start to jerk on turning which meant it was getting starved of fluid again. So I replaced the filter (£30 / $45) which is basically a plastic bottle with a mesh screen. Problem went away for a month. Bought another filter, pump survived another month. Then I cleaned one of the old filters out by reverse flushing with soap and water, guess what, cleaned filter lasted just under a month. So now the filters get awapped every month with one I cleaned a few weeks before, yeah it's a pain having to replace it but as I do it regularly I'm pretty quick at changing it over, the only cost is my time working on the car and cleaning out the removed filter. And it's way cheaper than fixing it properly by putting in a new steering rack (2K, $3000) in my 12 year old car.
From my understanding there is NO longer a 3 or 4 digit “access code” under the newly complied firmware and it’s just a timer feature.
The best solution is just to have an open sourced ESP32 based controller. Besides BLE and WiFi control it will allow for custom features and menus. For the boomers, sorry this is just an inevitably and necessity of customization.
Also with the waste oil instead of diluting it just with diesel add a little bit of lacquer thinner and I mean like a little bit and lacquer thinner as long as you don't get like the VOC shit it's basically acetone mixed with a little bit of tarling and something else I forget but you can look it up there's different types of lacker thinner but like the base one
Thomas more of the mineral spirits? I can probably find lacquer thinner in auto or paint store
I agree with you. It wasn't designed for used oil. Heating oil or diesel. The rest is just mucking about
I really think you need to modify the pulse width(reduce it) to get a longer run time between cleanings.
im in the same boat with a maxpeedingrods heater. it has a different control module than any of the vevor. with the vevor you are able to swap the motherboard and control screen and hopefully get the correct module to get into modifying the pump settings.
I think its also important to run it max heat on waste oil. Starting and stopping the unit on regular diesel.
Still trying to burn synthetic oil?
ran mine on 75% real biodiesel, it liked it. fuel line won't for long tho
Buy the hard nylon fuel tubing from a local Espar dealer, or online
the difference i've seen between the 5 and 8 is the controller goes to a higher number, the one i saw went to 8 instead of 6. i just started burning a waste mix tonight 75/25 waste oil/gas, not burning as hot as i'd like. did you need new gaskets every time you take it apart? hoping to not do that to much.
No but be careful changing it
Many folks before you tried it and failed too. It just doesn't work with waste oil.
The 5KW and the 8KW are infarct the same heater, it is the settings in the pass worded menu that are different, i have discovered how to turn the settings up on the heaters and the RPM goes as high as 8000Rpm and pulse rate can go as high as 9mhz, i am going to make a video of those setting in my 5Kw heater, also i run my heater on 10% used engine oil and 90% Kerosene and i have had no problems at all in the last 2 years, try 901 or 903 for the three digit code because i read on the interweb what the code was somewhere in my research about these heaters and that number sticks in my mind.
Thank you 🙏
Mine says 8kw on the case and 5kw on the castings and burner plate! Badge engineering 🤣
No. Lying manufacturers and suppliers. Dim purchasers who believe everything they are told. Sorty to be so blunt, but that is what it amounts to.
High heat RTV solves it
Hey buddy, obviously you bought a heater for the European Market, because of CE mark on your new heater.
Have a good one 👍
🤔🤔 thank you
Warm the vegatable oil its to thick ,there are elecktronic 12v heaters that make the oil thin!
I have tried the same as you, and had the same issues. My understanding is that oil has more energy than diesel, so the problem is you need more air : fuel ratio so if you can find a pump that delivers a smaller volume of fuel per click I would be very interested to hear how you got on.
Maybe order a old style controler from Ali express? Connectors are the same.
@@BenVeenstra just FYI the new controllers with blue numbers on the screen cannot be replaced with the older red digit controllers without also swapping the ecu
How did you find out about the 3-digit code was it for me or somebody else
Might been you honestly I have horrible memory. I will start writing it down and giving credit where it’s due. Lol
Clearly these aren't meant to burn waste oil.
They are for burning diesel. Either from the tank suppled or from the vehicle fuel tank (if a diesel vehicle). Kerosene (but only 28s Redwood fraction - usual central heating oil does seem to work without pump problems) is used by many, but will produce less heat).
9-8-7 is the only thing i find that does something. and by something i mean it brings you back to the operating screen when you push the ok button after entering 987. all other 3 digit codes ive entered and hit ok on the controller results in nothing happening. it stays on the screen to enter the code. im wondering if you can even access this menu. i dont think ive gone through all the combos yet but im getting there.
Same here did exactly the same on both my units
I repeat: the 3 digit code is the timer for either timed switch-on , or switch-off. Nothing more. You might notice the decimal point within those three digits - it means xx.x hours (so you can only set those times to the nearest 6 minutes in 99.9 hours!
You access the three digit code with the unit OFF and [pwr] + [OK]. It's different than the timers, although I, too, have not been able to get it to do anything, :(
@@williamkimsherman8944 Yes, I have set the time(s?) while the heater is not running, but the timer function is set either before running (start time later) or while the heater is running (for delayed shut-down). The point was that the three digits + decimal point is for timing purposes, not for delving into reprogramming the fuel:air ratios - which is not available on that type of controller/motherboard combination.
I have checked and found the delayed start works, but not used it (as I don’t yet know whether both functions work from one setting). I regularly use the delayed shut-down facility (often later in the evening, when a quick trip to turn on the heater (and then select the timer function) is all that is required for the one hour run-time I have chosen - at the heat output I deem suitable, to maintain a safe over-night temperature). That is basically three operations of the controller - 1) switch on. 2) select the timed shut-down function (two buttons pressed simultaneously) and 3) pressing the up or down button to select the pump speed (maximum of two presses down or three presses for up).
I hope that makes its operation clear(er)?
If it's only 3 digits, it shouldn't be that hard to figure out the code. That's only 1000 possibilities max. Btw I FINALLY got enough together to place my order! Prices were starting to go up on them again tho, it was like $75+shipping but after increasing a few times due to less supply and more demand (only 9 left when I placed my order) my total was $101.74 including shipping. I got my small 5 gallon container of oil ready and waiting for first test run when it arrives! It arrived in PA about an hour ago and might get here by end of day tomorrow but should be here by friday at the latest!!!! I'm gonna run it in the 20ftx20ft stone foundation basement for now in hopes that I can turn off 3-4 little electric space heaters. 1 in the basement for sure, and 2 directly above there in the kitchen and dining room. Maybe even the living room space heater if im lucky, since that's only right on the other side of the wall from there and still above the basement. We're currently using about $14/day for our 7 electric space heaters. So if I can cut that in half, I'd be happy as hell!!!!
Yeah I can’t remember if you can use the zero but that be 1000 if no zeros than 504 combination. Hope you enjoy it .
@@Storman77 one guy actually sat down and tried all 999 codes, unfortunately only 2 do anything at all - one gives an error code and the other just sends you back to the home screen
@@jdullemond darn it
@@Storman77 that's what I said too lol. I actually ordered a second heater just like you did because the picture on Amazon showed it to have the old style controller. Sadly when it showed up it had the new one
@@jdullemond I’m gonna order on eBay a mother board and controller old style on eBay
You can buy the type of controller you want on eBay for about $15 but you'll also need the correct motherboard to work with it. I've done this myself to a couple heaters. The correct motherboard runs about $17 US. Then you'll have the ability to change things by getting into the admin settings with the 1688 code.
Thanks I will source that out this weekend
Do you have links to both ? Thx
@@lakeside_drones8224 Are eBay links not allowed on CZcams? I tried to post eBay links twice but they don't show up.
@@MrHugemoth crap :(
@@MrHugemoth thx 4 trying
There are no 8 KW heaters in that form factor. Espar never made one, which left the Chinese nothing which to copy or knockoff
Lol exactly
i can burn around 60-80liter of 70% wvo 20%diesel 10% petrol takes around one week the it blows out and have a big fat coke of carbon in the burnertube.... for the fuel price i just keep cleaning the burner - i preheat the fuel
Is that 1 week constant use, or stopping and starting it daily?
Constant use would help me for sure
What about running your waste oil mix with a little seafoam added in? Would love to see results on that
Try tuning the lcd panel, from the factory these units come with middle of the road stock settings, and they all vary slightly, also different fuels burn at different temps and pulse rates, follow this video and tune the highest and lowest temps and pulse rates, normally it too much fuel causing soot and build up.. czcams.com/video/SmCYQu53umk/video.html
This new model Aiden doesn’t let us . I am going to order and old style controller and board for exactly that. Can anyone link the old style on eBay ?
You haven't learned by now that those heaters are not made to burn waste oil. They're diesel heaters, made to burn diesel! Waste oil is dirty, it even says "waste", so why do you think it should burn clean enough for that heater? Are you filtering it?
Also, those heaters are NOT 8KW, they are barely 5KW so that's why they are all the same size. They lied about them being 8KW that's all.
A Chevy 327 & a Chevy 350 are the same size yet different horse power. An 8 k has different motherboard that allows more fuel flow and fan speed.
Preston it’s the same pump and mother board . To get 8Kw out of that heat exchanger is like getting 800 HP out of a 350. Yes it’s doable but if your a car guy you are fully aware of all the work you would have to do to get 800 hp . Take thousands and well it be to scale about the same here . In order to get the energy in KW out of that unit well it be some feat I assure you. Watch John MK 47 video he does a full scientific analysis and has on about half a dozen of theses units and never gotten oven 5100 watts of heat energy . This heater is modelled after the espar 4kw model and does well I say at that. If I get my hands on a older bigger unit I will post . Thanks and all the best
@@Storman77 Well I saw a guy on CZcams change out the controller and motherboard from a 5k to an 8k and he got about a 15 F degree F increase in output air plus double the fan speed current. Now for the actual truth. Come back with a wetbulb btu output test and results. Anything else is meaningless.
Well that has to be measured which is air speed and temp one meter away from unit . Sounds like he got more but if I recall John had said maybe another gentleman said this but it would be 40 deg of Celsius at a fan rpm of 6500 would be required. Now that was the math . Maybe it’s achievable but that’s 3000 what’s more . Perspective wise let’s just think . Take a 5 kw heater and a 2 kw heater side by side going that’s still not 8Kw . That’s why in my little mind which I will concede lol I don’t physically see how it could pump out 8Kw, maybe they get 6kw . But I will agree to disagree but stay open to the fact I know little much more than I stated so I certainly can be wrong . Thanks you sir