Thanks bro I’ve had a lot of clutches and got rid of a lot have a 440 Dormax and blew the close out all night and now that’s in your video I can save myself a lot of money just by taking it apart and rebuild it back just buy a clip of a spring that’s crazy thank you and God bless
Yes you can do that, I tried to see if this worked without having to do more work. I’m sure that can be better it was just easier to do only the spring
Nice, would have never thought about that. I build street legal motorcycles with predator 420s all the time and have used clutches In those builds. The one thing I learned is that gearing is everything, if that is wrong you will destroy clutches quickly! I run a 6.0 gear ratio on all of my builds and that provides good middle ground for acceleration and top speed. That's running 24in rear tires on the bikes.
Like miles per tank I’m not sure I’ve never ran it with the stock gas tank. If you mean life of motor, this is the first one I’ve ever ran but I know someone who has a predator big block water pump and it’s been running good for couple years. I’m sure they’re very dependable
Great video👍, a lot of these clutches come shipped with little to no grease, which is why they burn out quickly as well plus You can drill small holes on the outside shell to keep the clutch cool not on the side where the pads grip tho
Thank you! I appreciate you watching. They really do burn so fast, I’ve heard of the holes for cooling but I’ve never done it. I probably will try it so it can help me with cooling it off.
@@Smoothridinminibikes raising the rpm engagement point in this case just frees up the clutch from wearing out at idle since the bike wants to go on its own. Also it can allow you to accelerate a little quicker off the line since your motor will be at a higher rpm when taking off.
The motor wasn’t adjusted there but I did it the next day now the chain has good tension. The chain/back wheel was spinning because the chain was still rubbing with the shaft of the motor as it was spinning but I just did that for testing purposes, once I put the chain back on the clutch and got the chain tensioned I had no problems with it rolling.
Had to learn cause I was spending to much money for clutches I was burning clutch out 1 to 3 days of riding!!!! I have no problem and I change my gearing
Definitely, I’ve seen so many people say they can’t find a good reliable clutch for their big blocks but I found that most of the Amazon clutches are getting burned just idling since they engage at pretty low rpm’s.
These clutches engage at a very very low rpm so even at a low idle almost even shutting off it would still engage. I tried lowering the idea so low to where it’s almost shutting off and still the clutch turned completely.
You did a great job explaining and fixing the problem . Good job bro 😎
Thank you, I appreciate the support. Hopefully you found it helpful.
This can also work with any clutch for 212cc too just to raise the clutch rpm engagement.
Bro!!!!!! I am so glad I came across your video!!! Super easily explained!!!! Appreciate you homie!!
Thanks for watching, glad it helped!
That’s how it’s done. Your actually the only video besides max torque that explains this right.
Thanks for watching! I hope this video was helpful for you
Thanks bro I’ve had a lot of clutches and got rid of a lot have a 440 Dormax and blew the close out all night and now that’s in your video I can save myself a lot of money just by taking it apart and rebuild it back just buy a clip of a spring that’s crazy thank you and God bless
Thank you for the support and for watching!! Im glad it helped you out.
Max torque also showed cutting all but one of the clutch pads in half to increase engagement rpm.
Yes you can do that, I tried to see if this worked without having to do more work. I’m sure that can be better it was just easier to do only the spring
Nice, would have never thought about that. I build street legal motorcycles with predator 420s all the time and have used clutches In those builds. The one thing I learned is that gearing is everything, if that is wrong you will destroy clutches quickly! I run a 6.0 gear ratio on all of my builds and that provides good middle ground for acceleration and top speed. That's running 24in rear tires on the bikes.
Definitely gearing is one of the biggest things that changes how the bike rides.
The chicken 🐔 is hungry
Thanks for the video! What kinda mileage do you generally get with those big block motors?
Like miles per tank I’m not sure I’ve never ran it with the stock gas tank. If you mean life of motor, this is the first one I’ve ever ran but I know someone who has a predator big block water pump and it’s been running good for couple years. I’m sure they’re very dependable
Great video👍, a lot of these clutches come shipped with little to no grease, which is why they burn out quickly as well plus You can drill small holes on the outside shell to keep the clutch cool not on the side where the pads grip tho
Thank you! I appreciate you watching. They really do burn so fast, I’ve heard of the holes for cooling but I’ve never done it. I probably will try it so it can help me with cooling it off.
Thanks for the information ☺️
No problem hope it helps!
Nice vid bro ima do it to one of my clutch’s and see how it does
Thank you! Let me know how it goes it can also work with predator 212’s to raise the engagement on the clutch.
@@larryluna36 what does raising the engagement do to the bike?
@@Smoothridinminibikes raising the rpm engagement point in this case just frees up the clutch from wearing out at idle since the bike wants to go on its own. Also it can allow you to accelerate a little quicker off the line since your motor will be at a higher rpm when taking off.
Great content. But y is your chain soo loose? And y is your chain spinning like if it’s engaged? It’s not suppose to do that .
The motor wasn’t adjusted there but I did it the next day now the chain has good tension. The chain/back wheel was spinning because the chain was still rubbing with the shaft of the motor as it was spinning but I just did that for testing purposes, once I put the chain back on the clutch and got the chain tensioned I had no problems with it rolling.
Had to learn cause I was spending to much money for clutches I was burning clutch out 1 to 3 days of riding!!!! I have no problem and I change my gearing
Definitely, I’ve seen so many people say they can’t find a good reliable clutch for their big blocks but I found that most of the Amazon clutches are getting burned just idling since they engage at pretty low rpm’s.
@@larryluna36 I wish I can send you a clutch I had fire hot!!!!
I'm tell you a secret I use the max torque clutcg springs they are stiffer and you get more ride time
I’ve never rode with a max torque clutch but I will look into it to see the difference. Thank you
My clutch on my 212 keeps burning out within a couple weeks . I'm going to try this . Thanks
You’re welcome! Hope it works out for you
Nice simple video on a clutch hack!
Thank you! Hope it was helpful
How about that
Does this fix the clutch pinging sound?
Yes that can fix the ping sound most of the time that sound can come from the clutch bell getting hit/tap by the clutch itself
@@larryluna36 I'm gonna give it a try
@@larryluna36 would you consider doing this even to a new clutch
The cluch bell is loose on mine
Maybe it’s worn out? Is it old?
Yo what you can’t just adjust the idle? 🤣
These clutches engage at a very very low rpm so even at a low idle almost even shutting off it would still engage. I tried lowering the idea so low to where it’s almost shutting off and still the clutch turned completely.
I never seen this problem with 212’s. With small block I can always fix that with idle screw but not in this case.
@@larryluna36 yeah I haven’t touched a 224 so yeah that’s a thing I gusss