I don’t big wall so I’m not one to make any real critique - but it would be interesting to hear what the least amount of gear he has ended a long pitch with. Definitely going into the unknown you want a bit extra. But topos at minimum would allow you to possibly taper the rack down a little.
Always amazed at how rare it is for people to carry a Leatherman Skeletool when climbing or canyoning. Built in carabiner, one-hand opening blade, and pliers are just amazing for loosening locked gates and general field repairs.
A drawback of the using the slings at their full length is that on steep or traversing pitches it'll be hard to reach and clean the piece from the weighted fixed rope. Great video!
I have a tip for you guys when it comes to knee protection...Get yourself a nice pair of Crye military tactical pants. The pants are designed to have special pockets where you insert these amazing kneepads into the pockets. That way you have knee protection without the annoying straps going behind your knee that cut off circulation and restrict movement. They also have models that are elastic like material so you can bend and move so don't think of them like regular stiff military pants...Also they are dersigned with a nice strap system in the kneepad section that lets you tighten and move where the pads sit. that fixes the old problem of older kneepad insert pants where the pad would float around..I bet you guys will love them...They are pretty lightweight too.
@@compellingpeople sure..Depends how tight and deep you get the knee bar though. If you're just relying on the very tip of your knee it probably wouldn't stick good
36:20 A great insurance for loosing light is to get to know every action you need to do by feel: talk to your local climbing gym and if there's no one else in they might let you climb with the lights off to practice. I will usually go until there is basically no light left before reverting to my headtorch. If it's a clear night I'll often just work under moonlight (or even light pollution for nearby cities on a cloudy night) cause that's all I need.
You guys are a hoot. Wish hownotto and youtube was around when I started climbing. All I had in my area was Climbing mag, Mountaineers Bible, a few old school black and whites and nobody to climb with. 😒
Its so mental that people get more scared as they get higher. Take an uncontrolled fall Above 8-10’ off the ground odds are really good that you are going to the hospitol. Above 15-20’ the morgue. So at 300’ or 3000’ just enjoy the trip.
So is a big wall determined by the length? I’ve done up to 12 pitches in a day. That felt pretty big. Also I am pretty sure I carry enough gear for a big wall even if I haven’t done one. Edit: nope that’s more gear than I can physically carry lol. How do women do big walls?
I don't think, you can measure a big wall only by the number of pitches. If they are highly technical, 12 pitches may be on the lower end of a real big wall. If easy to protect or if the route has bolts on it, it's just a multi pitch climb for an afternoon. I'd say, a big wall starts when you have to spend at least one night there - as a "normal" climber; not Alex Honold ;-)
These are great videos. I know you aren't looking for feedback but I'm going to give some unsolicited feedback anyway (on the video not the content). I feel like I wish these were slightly shorter and broken into 20 minute segments. An hour is a commitment and I've been watching it in pieces but having it in smaller chunks may help with your overall channel click through rate. I've found myself wanting to watch your videos as soon as I see them on my feed, but catch myself avoiding them because it can be a commitment when I see 40+ minutes to an hour sometimes (unlike a podcast this needs active viewing). I know you aren't doing it for the money but improving that click through rate will definitely help out with the algorithm and putting it in front of more people which will help some, I'm sure.
I try to make normal videos 8-20 minutes if possible. These hour long videos were discussed a lot before doing them and the only thing that has ever bothered us and other people when trying to learn a complex topic like big walling is that the information is too shallow trying to keep it short and the details make the difference. It's time-stamped if you want to watch it in chunks. I hesitate to make 28x 1/2 hour videos or 56 15 minute videos instead of 14x 1 hour videos because it would overtake the channel when I want to get to break testing gear again. Every ying has a yang and we risked going long on these.
Totally understand, and I'm glad it was thought through. This isn't something I feel strongly about about and I agree it's more helpful for those that are really looking for this. My comment, I guess, was geared towards what would probably help with views/algo (at least what I would suspect would help) and not what truly matters most: the content :) which is also why I love this channel. Cheers!
@@HowNOT2 you made the right call, anybody who wants to know this stuff doesn’t care how long the video is. It’s helpful to hear the small details and how you think it through while you talk. Big wall baby😆!!
Camalots in anything 0.5-0.75 and larger, DMM dragonfly below that, aliens are outdated. Z4s are awesome, but have questionable durability on big falls in the dual axle sizes. If it's just body weight, Z4s all the way
Don't worry about people finding it funny. The late great Norm loved bombing. Heck even SNL is still around and that hasn't been funny in over 20 years.
Go Yosemite Secret Weapon! Get 2 daisy chains, 2 aiders 1 set per daisy, 5 finger size cams, rivet hanger, taped open beaner and a cam hook on each. It will speed things up.
16:07 "even though I have a tiny pecker..." 😂 sorry dude but that is just me done. British humour here, I already thought you were taking the piss with the amount of gear you carry on lead, then your revelation about not being so well endowed...
@16:04 I'm always careful to say I have at least TWO tiny peckers, not just the one Jeremiah talked about, plus some weird black diamond aid thingy he showed there.
Correct it’s the petzl evolvs but from a couple aid falls it started coreshotting so replaced it with old trimmed dynamic climbing rope. Reused the metal part obviously tho
Aid climbing is "an old man's sport" yeah right..... 36lbs pounds of stuff pains me as an alpinist. Curious how many pounds I can shave on my first wall.
They aren't, they just have a cult following. There are improved designs with much narrower heads and equally flexible stems, but are easier to place, including Dragonfly's and Z4s. Aliens aren't bad by any means though, they are very good cams
You are connected to a tag line that is connected to the haul bag so that you can haul the pig once you’re at the top of the pitch. The 2mm loop is to tie the tag line to so that if the pig somehow became disconnected, the 2mm would break and not pull the leader off the wall.
@@benjam_morgan Ah. That sounds like the tag line shouldnt be connected to the haul bag. At least until you have isolated yourself off of the tag. It’s the same logics as putting stopper knots in the end of the rope, even if you ‘KNOW’ you have plenty of rope. It isn’t like the MBS of 2mm is nothing and that failure mode will still hurt/endanger you. Really the haul bag shouldn’t be directly connected to someone and you are always isolated from it.
Read this chapter at www.hownot2.com/post/bigwalls-gear.
Check out our new store! hownot2.store/
I'mma be real with you chief that's a lot of stuff to carry around
I don’t big wall so I’m not one to make any real critique - but it would be interesting to hear what the least amount of gear he has ended a long pitch with.
Definitely going into the unknown you want a bit extra. But topos at minimum would allow you to possibly taper the rack down a little.
Always amazed at how rare it is for people to carry a Leatherman Skeletool when climbing or canyoning. Built in carabiner, one-hand opening blade, and pliers are just amazing for loosening locked gates and general field repairs.
always carry a multitool. Even when not climbing...Most useful tool I carry everyday IMO
A drawback of the using the slings at their full length is that on steep or traversing pitches it'll be hard to reach and clean the piece from the weighted fixed rope. Great video!
Can always loop them to halve/third/quarter the length.
I have a tip for you guys when it comes to knee protection...Get yourself a nice pair of Crye military tactical pants. The pants are designed to have special pockets where you insert these amazing kneepads into the pockets. That way you have knee protection without the annoying straps going behind your knee that cut off circulation and restrict movement. They also have models that are elastic like material so you can bend and move so don't think of them like regular stiff military pants...Also they are dersigned with a nice strap system in the kneepad section that lets you tighten and move where the pads sit. that fixes the old problem of older kneepad insert pants where the pad would float around..I bet you guys will love them...They are pretty lightweight too.
Interesting, can you do a kneebar with them?
@@compellingpeople sure..Depends how tight and deep you get the knee bar though. If you're just relying on the very tip of your knee it probably wouldn't stick good
Now that you say that, hunting pants have that to.
36:20 A great insurance for loosing light is to get to know every action you need to do by feel: talk to your local climbing gym and if there's no one else in they might let you climb with the lights off to practice. I will usually go until there is basically no light left before reverting to my headtorch. If it's a clear night I'll often just work under moonlight (or even light pollution for nearby cities on a cloudy night) cause that's all I need.
Jeremiah.. I would looove to see your students’ faces when they get to see these videos!
You two guys make the most informative climbing videos out there! 🤩 love the project!
You guys are a hoot. Wish hownotto and youtube was around when I started climbing. All I had in my area was Climbing mag, Mountaineers Bible, a few old school black and whites and nobody to climb with. 😒
I climb in Duluth fire flex pants because they have built-in kneepads it’s a game changer
Yessss great to see Skots gear in here
Its so mental that people get more scared as they get higher. Take an uncontrolled fall Above 8-10’ off the ground odds are really good that you are going to the hospitol. Above 15-20’ the morgue. So at 300’ or 3000’ just enjoy the trip.
Also at higher altitudes falls get safer, as you can't deck
So is a big wall determined by the length? I’ve done up to 12 pitches in a day. That felt pretty big. Also I am pretty sure I carry enough gear for a big wall even if I haven’t done one. Edit: nope that’s more gear than I can physically carry lol. How do women do big walls?
I don't think, you can measure a big wall only by the number of pitches. If they are highly technical, 12 pitches may be on the lower end of a real big wall. If easy to protect or if the route has bolts on it, it's just a multi pitch climb for an afternoon. I'd say, a big wall starts when you have to spend at least one night there - as a "normal" climber; not Alex Honold ;-)
Nice burp hold in at 12:30. Great content, as always
The grigri is also a great bottle opener!
These are great videos. I know you aren't looking for feedback but I'm going to give some unsolicited feedback anyway (on the video not the content). I feel like I wish these were slightly shorter and broken into 20 minute segments. An hour is a commitment and I've been watching it in pieces but having it in smaller chunks may help with your overall channel click through rate. I've found myself wanting to watch your videos as soon as I see them on my feed, but catch myself avoiding them because it can be a commitment when I see 40+ minutes to an hour sometimes (unlike a podcast this needs active viewing). I know you aren't doing it for the money but improving that click through rate will definitely help out with the algorithm and putting it in front of more people which will help some, I'm sure.
I try to make normal videos 8-20 minutes if possible. These hour long videos were discussed a lot before doing them and the only thing that has ever bothered us and other people when trying to learn a complex topic like big walling is that the information is too shallow trying to keep it short and the details make the difference. It's time-stamped if you want to watch it in chunks. I hesitate to make 28x 1/2 hour videos or 56 15 minute videos instead of 14x 1 hour videos because it would overtake the channel when I want to get to break testing gear again. Every ying has a yang and we risked going long on these.
Totally understand, and I'm glad it was thought through. This isn't something I feel strongly about about and I agree it's more helpful for those that are really looking for this. My comment, I guess, was geared towards what would probably help with views/algo (at least what I would suspect would help) and not what truly matters most: the content :) which is also why I love this channel. Cheers!
@@HowNOT2 you made the right call, anybody who wants to know this stuff doesn’t care how long the video is. It’s helpful to hear the small details and how you think it through while you talk. Big wall baby😆!!
i like what you said right at 15:00
I've got the same sling as Jeremiah, but not nearly as much gear. What would you say is more important, being organized, or even weight distribution?
“Took him 3 hours to finish by brail “ 😂😂😂
shoutout to yates out of redding
Keep it up guys!!
Alien versus Black diamond cams debate GO:
Dmm
Camalots in anything 0.5-0.75 and larger, DMM dragonfly below that, aliens are outdated. Z4s are awesome, but have questionable durability on big falls in the dual axle sizes. If it's just body weight, Z4s all the way
Dmm
The answer is totems win
Don't worry about people finding it funny. The late great Norm loved bombing. Heck even SNL is still around and that hasn't been funny in over 20 years.
Go Yosemite Secret Weapon! Get 2 daisy chains, 2 aiders 1 set per daisy, 5 finger size cams, rivet hanger, taped open beaner and a cam hook on each. It will speed things up.
he looks like the trad dad, except hes being serious lol
I still have all my A5 aid gear aiders, chest/ gear sling
oh my god
i'm never trad climbing a big wall
Jeremiah, why not girth hitch a sling to the chest harness with a biner to clip it to something first before taking it off?
You need to carry them in a food bag like I do
16:07 "even though I have a tiny pecker..." 😂 sorry dude but that is just me done. British humour here, I already thought you were taking the piss with the amount of gear you carry on lead, then your revelation about not being so well endowed...
@16:04 I'm always careful to say I have at least TWO tiny peckers, not just the one Jeremiah talked about, plus some weird black diamond aid thingy he showed there.
Jeremiah uses the petzl Evolv adjust but never mentioned it. Is it with the original rope? It looks different
Correct it’s the petzl evolvs but from a couple aid falls it started coreshotting so replaced it with old trimmed dynamic climbing rope. Reused the metal part obviously tho
Aid climbing is "an old man's sport" yeah right..... 36lbs pounds of stuff pains me as an alpinist. Curious how many pounds I can shave on my first wall.
Same.
Coming from UL backpacking to Trad climbing the weight is painful.
To cut weight, I cut my toothbrush in half, clothing tags, and all the sleeves off my long sleeves. 🤪
but... why are the aliens better?
in every way (apparently) and then its never explained
They aren't, they just have a cult following. There are improved designs with much narrower heads and equally flexible stems, but are easier to place, including Dragonfly's and Z4s. Aliens aren't bad by any means though, they are very good cams
How many milimeter wide is your quad ancor sling ?
Wait what? Haul loop broke someone’s back and killed them??? 😱
Why you no have loop on the top of the peckers/tomahawks ?
16:06
I didn't know anything west of the Mississippi considered themselves part of the midwest. #TodayILearned
@32:26, your 2mm weakest link, why are you connected to the haul bag when you are lead?
You are connected to a tag line that is connected to the haul bag so that you can haul the pig once you’re at the top of the pitch. The 2mm loop is to tie the tag line to so that if the pig somehow became disconnected, the 2mm would break and not pull the leader off the wall.
@@benjam_morgan Ah. That sounds like the tag line shouldnt be connected to the haul bag. At least until you have isolated yourself off of the tag. It’s the same logics as putting stopper knots in the end of the rope, even if you ‘KNOW’ you have plenty of rope. It isn’t like the MBS of 2mm is nothing and that failure mode will still hurt/endanger you. Really the haul bag shouldn’t be directly connected to someone and you are always isolated from it.
What headlamp is that, Ryan?
Similar to a Nitecore HC30
That's a Zebra light, you can get them here: www.finalfrontiersports.com/product-category/zebra-products/
Why all the gear when you could just free climb?
Technically you just need a chalk bag and climbing shoes to climb El Cap.
@@HowNOT2 Chalk is aid
@@Fabianwew now THAT is a spicy take 😂
Biggest difference between OLD aliens and x4s is the aliens are better
The midwestern guy needs to carry a parachute. This is way too much gear.
Keep them in a peanut bag.