Pro tip if your using the old race to tap in the new one, beforehand take a cutoff wheel and zip it thru the race and take a slice out of it. Makes it easier to remove if it goes in too far...
I am replacing the rear inner hub seal on my 1996 F-350. This was helpful to get the torque specs. A few notes...my 1996 has an O-ring seal on the end of the axle...there is no outer seal like you see in some of the other videos. The tool for the bearing nut that I bought from CarQuest (Advanced Auto) is p/n AC649 "1 9/16, 4 lug spindle nut wrench". The 1 9/16" reference is the diameter of the 'nose' that sticks into the axle shaft hole. The actual nut wrench diameter is closer to 2 3/4" in diameter. Good video.
thanks for the good info. I have a '96 f350 that the rear seals are apparently notorious for going out. seems like ford's gone through about 3 redesigned inner hub seals, the latest being a "seal within a seal" design, to get more miles out of. I've done em on mine around 3 times over the years, and the motorcraft brand seems to last longer (#BRS83). Make sure the hub surface that the seal mates with is nice an clean for a good seal. Cheers!
Thanks for your reply . I figured there must be more to it than just a simple swap . I found a good used 10.25 dually rearend at a wrecking yard with the same 4.10 gears as my srw 10.25 . Plus it came out of a regular width frame truck ( not cab & chassis ) so everything is the same spacing etc , so it will bolt right in . The reason for my conversion from srw 10.25 to dually 10.25 is i am putting on a steel dump box from an older 2 wheel drive Ford truck of mine to my 93 Ford F350 4x4 .
faronf2006 there is no difference in the frame or rear end on that truck then a heavy duty 350 if it is a 10.25 rear ring gear if it was a Dana 70 that would be different or the Dana 80 in the 450 550 but the three quarter ton and 1 ton trucks are identical except for leaf springs going from a 1-ton truck to a 3/4 ton truck you have to pull the p i n to put a single wheel on
This my second time watching your vid I didn’t Wright down the part about the clicks mine was lose 😂 when got truck so I tq them ran it for awhile now leaking now I’m back to see about clicks when installing new bearings thank you for posting this
Great video , thanks for sharing . I have to tear apart my 10.25 one of these days . Good to know about the left hand thread & the special socket for removal / install . Just wondering if anyone out there knows the difference between a 10.25 Sterling Ford Single Rear Wheel ( SRW ) full float differential vs a 10.25 Sterling Ford Dually Rear full float differential ?? Are the brake drums bigger/wider in a Dually ?
can anyone help me??? i believe i have the sterling 10.25 drw axle i do have drum brakes.. have the special socket.. i have 12 bolts on my differential cover. it is a full float axle. on my 93 f350 xlt. i need a part number for outer bearing!! parts store keeps giving me lm104949 with a 2 in inner diameter, it will not even go over my threads! let alonw the small raise in outer diameter right behind threads.. the inner bearin g and seal were no problem to find, but the outer has been a nightmare! can anyone help?
Would this be the same on my 1988 F250 4x4 Super Cab 7.3 Diesel? After 30 years (bought her new) my driver side rear Axle seal is now weeping and I want to do both sides. I thought I had to access and remove the Pinion Shaft to remove C-locks to slide the Axles out...(not so?) Also...Socket Tool part number? Also...did you need a 'puller' to get the HUB off?
Yes, This is a full floating axle so there are no c clips, just take off the bolts on the hub and the axle shaft comes out, no puller needed for the hub it comes off, Spindle nut socket 2-3/4 SAE part number W83008.
Im doing this tomorrow to a 96 f250. The hole tire hub everything came out on its own. Lol so itmade it easy. I just hope the locking nut holds it on after i go threw all this hard work. The tab is broken off and the part is in 2 parts.
1989 dually. I replaced the inner seal so that it was flush with the inner hub but there was space between the bearing and the seal. I could grab it and shake it around, is this normal? Does it get tightened when you torque down that click nut? I’ve been driving it for a week with no problem… yet..
Did you lube the bearings and fill the hub with gear oil before putting the axle shaft in? Also didn't see you use any kind off sealant on the axle shaft face when you put it back together.
I oiled the bearings before putting them in, no need to fill the hub with oil. Oil from the differential lubricates. The axle shaft uses an o ring to seal.
7.3 IDI Diesel yes, oil from the diff will eventually make it out to fill the hub. I always liked to get as much gear oil in the hub first to protect the bearings so there's no risk of damage.
Jesse Werner i would either park it on a slope or jack up the opposite side for a bit before driving. Let’s the oil run into whatever side you just changed. Then re-level the truck and check the fluid level again
Did you forget the axle shaft seal? I did not see it come out on the shaft either, this may cause continued leaking. See "my fack names video on the same subject. nice video.
Did the brakes work OK once you cleaned the oil saturated shoes and drums? I have the same situation (ie: brake shoes and drums are completely saturated with gear oil, and right now, the brakes don't work well), but there's plenty of material on the brake shoes, and I'm hoping not to replace them.
Yes, oil doesn't effect them very much. Drove it for a long time like this sometimes the oil and brake dust builds up and they start shuddering so you have to clean them out.
It says in the service manual to pack the bearings with Motorcraft® Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-E1. I never have though. I always just get em a little wet with clean gear oil and let it ride. The bottom of the bearings are in an oil bath. Splash lubrication. But the service manual does say to pack em.
@@7.3ididiesel36 Thank you...I have a question about the seal. I set it in there pretty good but the bearing still has some play...it floats a little...how far does the seal gotta go down? Thanks!
Great upload! Im researching what I need to do this job, as Im keeping this low mileage 7.3 IDI for ever! or until the body rusts away LOL. Heres a link for that spindle wrench: www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-648476-Spindle-Socket-Special/dp/B0015UWWLY/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=sterling+10.5+rear+hub+socket&qid=1572966396&sr=8-2
Would’ve been very helpful to include part numbers in your description or at least show them to us in the video. Edit: just did the job myself today. The seal is National Part number 370047a. You will also need a quart or two of 75w-140 diff oil.
The bearings are lubricated by gear oil from the differential, no need for grease. there are other axles that have an inner seal and use grease in the wheel bearings, the Sterling 10.25 axle is not one of them. It has been fine for thousands of miles since I did this.
The most important thing you could have shared with your viewers would have been the bearing nut tool size and part number. But you have made this video almost useless. Did you not have to find out what kind of tool it took to remove the nut? Would you not think your viewers would be going through the same frustrating issue? Just saying. O and you called the bearing socket. "This thing" showing you had some difficulty in knowing what tool. May be do a up date and show all the tools needed to do the job. That Is what professionals do. Just saying.!
Pro tip if your using the old race to tap in the new one, beforehand take a cutoff wheel and zip it thru the race and take a slice out of it. Makes it easier to remove if it goes in too far...
I am replacing the rear inner hub seal on my 1996 F-350. This was helpful to get the torque specs. A few notes...my 1996 has an O-ring seal on the end of the axle...there is no outer seal like you see in some of the other videos. The tool for the bearing nut that I bought from CarQuest (Advanced Auto) is p/n AC649 "1 9/16, 4 lug spindle nut wrench". The 1 9/16" reference is the diameter of the 'nose' that sticks into the axle shaft hole. The actual nut wrench diameter is closer to 2 3/4" in diameter. Good video.
Thanks for letting us know about the spindle nut tool!
Thank you very much for this video. I have same axle and need to get this done. This is going to be very helpful
I have done this job 4 times on my 90 f250 pick up truck.
thanks for the good info. I have a '96 f350 that the rear seals are apparently notorious for going out. seems like ford's gone through about 3 redesigned inner hub seals, the latest being a "seal within a seal" design, to get more miles out of. I've done em on mine around 3 times over the years, and the motorcraft brand seems to last longer (#BRS83). Make sure the hub surface that the seal mates with is nice an clean for a good seal. Cheers!
Any tips on getting the sucker out of there
Thanks for your reply . I figured there must be more to it than just a simple swap .
I found a good used 10.25 dually rearend at a wrecking yard with the same 4.10 gears as my srw 10.25 . Plus it came out of a regular width frame truck ( not cab & chassis ) so everything is the same spacing etc , so it will bolt right in . The reason for my conversion from srw 10.25 to dually 10.25 is i am putting on a steel dump box from an older 2 wheel drive Ford truck of mine to my 93 Ford F350 4x4 .
faronf2006 there is no difference in the frame or rear end on that truck then a heavy duty 350 if it is a 10.25 rear ring gear if it was a Dana 70 that would be different or the Dana 80 in the 450 550 but the three quarter ton and 1 ton trucks are identical except for leaf springs going from a 1-ton truck to a 3/4 ton truck you have to pull the p i n to put a single wheel on
This my second time watching your vid I didn’t Wright down the part about the clicks mine was lose 😂 when got truck so I tq them ran it for awhile now leaking now I’m back to see about clicks when installing new bearings thank you for posting this
Thank you.
Great work buddy 👍👍
Thank you.
Good Job! If you put a synthetic grease on the bearing race they go in easier.
Thanks, I just used gear oil.
Thanks for the video. I have the exact same job to do on my '90 F250. Do you have a part # or source to check for that special socket ?
The socket is a spindle nut socket 2-3/4" SAE part number W83008.
Great video , thanks for sharing . I have to tear apart my 10.25 one of these days . Good to know about the left hand thread & the special socket for removal / install .
Just wondering if anyone out there knows the difference between a 10.25 Sterling Ford Single Rear Wheel ( SRW ) full float differential vs a 10.25 Sterling Ford Dually Rear full float differential ??
Are the brake drums bigger/wider in a Dually ?
The hubs are different on the dually rear end. Dually wheels will not work on a single wheel hub.
i just did the dually swap on mine took a quarter inch shim to give me the clearance needed to clear the leaf springs its possible i did it
can anyone help me??? i believe i have the sterling 10.25 drw axle i do have drum brakes.. have the special socket.. i have 12 bolts on my differential cover. it is a full float axle. on my 93 f350 xlt. i need a part number for outer bearing!! parts store keeps giving me lm104949 with a 2 in inner diameter, it will not even go over my threads! let alonw the small raise in outer diameter right behind threads.. the inner bearin g and seal were no problem to find, but the outer has been a nightmare! can anyone help?
Left kept going out, axle vent was plugged. Pressure had to go some where
Would this be the same on my 1988 F250 4x4 Super Cab 7.3 Diesel?
After 30 years (bought her new) my driver side rear Axle seal is now weeping and I want to do both sides. I thought I had to access and remove the Pinion Shaft to remove C-locks to slide the Axles out...(not so?)
Also...Socket Tool part number?
Also...did you need a 'puller' to get the HUB off?
Yes, This is a full floating axle so there are no c clips, just take off the bolts on the hub and the axle shaft comes out, no puller needed for the hub it comes off, Spindle nut socket 2-3/4 SAE part number W83008.
Do you not put a little bit diff oil on bearing just before axle install?
Always
Im doing this tomorrow to a 96 f250. The hole tire hub everything came out on its own. Lol so itmade it easy. I just hope the locking nut holds it on after i go threw all this hard work. The tab is broken off and the part is in 2 parts.
Should get a new locking nut fix it properly, it could come loose if the tab it broken.
I keep telling the boss this. But its only a farm truck. Like all fords should be. Lol
1989 dually. I replaced the inner seal so that it was flush with the inner hub but there was space between the bearing and the seal. I could grab it and shake it around, is this normal? Does it get tightened when you torque down that click nut? I’ve been driving it for a week with no problem… yet..
Yes this is normal. The bearings tighten when they are installed on the axel and torqued.
I have an '88 sterling 10.25. does anyone know if this requires an oil slinger for the wheel bearings?
good day very helpful video what was the cost please i have 97 f250 7.3 to do
Around $130 depending where you get the parts, 40 for the seal and about 75 for the bearings.
Definitely last longer if they're packed with grease, as the manual suggests. Most people don't do that though.
You don't grease rear axle bearings. They are lubed with the differential lube.
Don’t need grease with an oil bath.
@@doctorcompactor6635 You do what you want. I will do what the manual suggests and get maximum life out of the part.
I definitely need to see that manual, I’ve never heard of such. Out of curiosity, do you think the grease stays in the bearings in an oil bath?
@@doctorcompactor6635 Yes
Did you lube the bearings and fill the hub with gear oil before putting the axle shaft in? Also didn't see you use any kind off sealant on the axle shaft face when you put it back together.
I oiled the bearings before putting them in, no need to fill the hub with oil. Oil from the differential lubricates. The axle shaft uses an o ring to seal.
7.3 IDI Diesel yes, oil from the diff will eventually make it out to fill the hub. I always liked to get as much gear oil in the hub first to protect the bearings so there's no risk of damage.
Jesse Werner i would either park it on a slope or jack up the opposite side for a bit before driving. Let’s the oil run into whatever side you just changed. Then re-level the truck and check the fluid level again
What is the part number for the seal itself?
Seal National 370047A.
Can i just use dually rims/tires on my srw 10.25 .
u will need to drill the nipple hole for the dually wheels and atleast a 1/2 inch spacer to keep tires off the leafsprings
Got a part number for those two bearings the inner and outer?
Yes. Outer bearing National 3994, inner bearing National 3920, Seal National 370047A.
does that inner race bottom out when you put it in? i cant get it to go any farther than a 1/4 past where the wheel seal goes
Yes it does should go all the way in like in the video at 6:46. Make sure you have the right bearings and seal.
@@7.3ididiesel36 at 6:46 was the race in all the way?
@@rileyjohnson7093 Yes.
Did you forget the axle shaft seal? I did not see it come out on the shaft either, this may cause continued leaking. See "my fack names video on the same subject. nice video.
No, it was still good so I left it on the axle shaft and it's not leaking.
Probably can just use high temp silicon like they do on big rig axles.
Where can i get that socket i cant find the right one i have a 97 with a 10.25 if that makes a difference
The socket is a spindle nut socket 2-3/4" SAE part number W83008.
O'rielly auto parts has it.
@@7.3ididiesel36 thanks
Always coat the new bearings with gear oil ! Don’t roll on dry bearings !
Any reason why you wouldn't pack them with bearing grease before you install them?
Man, your gear oil looks rusty or something. Water contamination?
It might have some rust in it, but the limited slip clutch pack is going out so there is clutch material in the oil. I have changed the oil since.
Did the brakes work OK once you cleaned the oil saturated shoes and drums? I have the same situation (ie: brake shoes and drums are completely saturated with gear oil, and right now, the brakes don't work well), but there's plenty of material on the brake shoes, and I'm hoping not to replace them.
Yes, oil doesn't effect them very much. Drove it for a long time like this sometimes the oil and brake dust builds up and they start shuddering so you have to clean them out.
That's great to hear! Thanks for the response......
What are the part numbers for the rear bearings and seal
Outer bearing National 3994, inner bearing National 3920, Seal National 370047A.
@@7.3ididiesel36 do the races come with the bearings?
@@oldhawkins Yes.
Find a brass rod for pounding our the race to avoid damage.
a brass Drift....good note! also...I didn't see much bearing grease...am I missing something?
Do you not grease the bearings?
No need to, they are lubricated by gear oil.
Size of the spindle nut socket???
2-3/4 SAE. Part number W83008.
Did you not pack those bearings?
No need to, the bearings are lubricated by the gear oil.
Hmmm
Do you need to pack the bearings with grease or does the gear oil take care of the lubrication.
No the gear oil lubricates the bearings.
It says in the service manual to pack the bearings with Motorcraft® Premium Long-Life Grease
XG-1-E1. I never have though. I always just get em a little wet with clean gear oil and let it ride. The bottom of the bearings are in an oil bath. Splash lubrication. But the service manual does say to pack em.
Yeah there is no need for grease just oil them when putting them in.
Quickest reply from an OP ever! I agree though. Service manual isn't always right.
Thanks, Yeah I agree service manuals can be wrong sometimes.
No grease in the bearings?
No need they are lubricated by gear oil.
@@7.3ididiesel36 Thank you...I have a question about the seal. I set it in there pretty good but the bearing still has some play...it floats a little...how far does the seal gotta go down? Thanks!
That is normal the seal goes in until it bottoms out when everything torqued down there should be no play.@@en.copedawg2321
Are you from new England
No, English is my second language. Learned English when I lived in New York.
Great upload! Im researching what I need to do this job, as Im keeping this low mileage 7.3 IDI for ever! or until the body rusts away LOL.
Heres a link for that spindle wrench:
www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-648476-Spindle-Socket-Special/dp/B0015UWWLY/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=sterling+10.5+rear+hub+socket&qid=1572966396&sr=8-2
Would’ve been very helpful to include part numbers in your description or at least show them to us in the video.
Edit: just did the job myself today. The seal is National Part number 370047a. You will also need a quart or two of 75w-140 diff oil.
Good idea I added the part numbers to description.
O'Reilly's charged me $49 for that damn seal. What a rip off. No wonder I don't like doing business with O'Reilly's. $16 on eBay
Completely agree, I also payed around $49 for the seal.
Nobody going to talk about the fact that he didn't pack the bearings? Or is just me that noticed
The bearings are lubricated by the gear oil from the differential. No need to pack them with grease.
Now why are you NOT packing the bearings with hi temp greasemmm. This job is 100% comeback. Bad
The bearings are lubricated by gear oil from the differential, no need for grease. there are other axles that have an inner seal and use grease in the wheel bearings, the Sterling 10.25 axle is not one of them. It has been fine for thousands of miles since I did this.
F... Y..
The most important thing you could have shared with your viewers would have been the bearing nut tool size and part number. But you have made this video almost useless. Did you not have to find out what kind of tool it took to remove the nut? Would you not think your viewers would be going through the same frustrating issue? Just saying. O and you called the bearing socket. "This thing" showing you had some difficulty in knowing what tool. May be do a up date and show all the tools needed to do the job. That Is what professionals do. Just saying.!