man i don't know what i would do without this channel i'm redoing my roof on this old as hell house i bought, first time ever roofing and i hate this crap so much man🙏thank you for making these videos for idiots like me who think they're hard enough to roof their own house you're a godsend dude
I’m finding this out too, but learning how god awful this work is to do in the summer; almost by myself. Problem is having to learn it without someone there telling me what to do a few times. I just shingle one side of my porch and once done I noticed I have a varying gap to the peak. I think nobody will notice but the next roofer, hopefully when I’m 70.
I decided to save myself a fortune and do my roof myself (limited roofing experience in the past), your videos are the only ones I used. You're a good teacher, thanks for your help.
Who ever is just learning to shingle,, if you listen to this dude your going to go crazy and doubt yourself .I promise you this dude made blending the valley in way more difficult then it is..
@@Lifes_Apprentice I'm not going to say the way I do it cus your just going to ridicule the method.. all I'm saying is you're telling people to do it a way that you think is easy and it's not, it's easy to you because you've been doing it..
@@pimp1979robertmack It is easy if you can do basic math. You probably shingle out of the second valley from the top down and then shingle as normal. I do that too but that isnt how you teach people on youtube
It's 5 5/8 reveal, just like it says on the package. I use theses shingles " certainteed" exclusively. Like millions of dollars a year. I have 5 other guys that I work with
Nice video! The way I like to handle these is to snap a reference line parallel with the main ridge, at a height of a few feet above the intersecting ridge. I then shingle both sides up until they're 5 courses below the intersecting ridge height. Take measurements of both sides against the reference line, and with those 5 courses of space I can drop either side up to 3" with ⅝" drops, which is enough to bring shingles into level even in the worst case where they'd otherwise be half-height out of phase. There's a little bit of math, but it's fairly straightforward when you see it being done. Bonus tip: for the last course before merging, only use 2 nails at either end of the shingles, work out where you'll want the merged course of shingles to be positioned, then fill in the rest of the nails, respective of where the keyways of the next course will be.
Good job. The back of my house has no valley, but the front has a small one because of the roof over the front porch. Measure down from the ridge. I've already shingled the back of the house and I did measure down from the ridge doing that because I wanted to adjust where I started the first course a bit so the top course that gets capped would have a reasonable looking exposure. Now I tackle the front with a couple small closed valleys. Actually my very old house, the ridge has a bit of a sag in the middle. I measure down from the ridge at the ends of the ridge and snap lines all the way across. I will rely on your video on how to lay the shingles for the closed valleys.
Chalk a line for the starter. Chalk a line for the first shingle. From the top of your shingle make marks 11 1/4 and 22 1/2 on most achitect shingles. Chalk lines all the way up both sides. The line should be the same unless you make a mistake making your marks.
I got a question about roofing, dormers, etc. Any reason that I can't roof a dormer that dives into the main roof about half way up the main roof, before the lower parts? Just worried about tying it all in
Hey do you have a video on doing the slope from beginning to end? We are planning to shingle our roof in April ourselves and I was going to take out porch roofs off to avoid and valleys but not am thinking about keeping them but I don’t want any chance of leaking in the valleys do to lack of experience. I found a couple videos but non on how the shingles at top of where two valleys meet should lay
I always use 22 1/2 or 45 just so my shingles wont show white line. And my valleys i raised them two at a time to keep em straigth. But good job looks good.
Absolutely correct 💯 22 1/2 , 45, 67 1/2, 90 and so on. Every fourth shingle will hit the line on the top side of the shingle. That fourth course will seemed dropped but true and straight (plus it covers that low nail ya just laid on the 3rd🤣). But first if you measure 13 1/4 inch from the edge of your gutter apron on the eaves bottom edge across the roof gable to gable, gable to valley etc. Then off of that line use the 22half,45,67half,90,112half THEN you have a recipe. Do that stuff and let me know how it goes for you. 👍 you be shooting lazers every roof.
Hello, for the valley. Do you go up 12 inches on the higher side of the roof? Does more of the shingle have to be on the higher side or lower. Some people do it differently, thanks
Just a question, why not use the one inch spacing from the end on the first nail staring from the valley? Is the nail not covered by the next shingle sloping further into the valley? I was just thinking about the corner lifting? Sincere question, I would like the understand the reasoning?
On a closed cut valley like this (California cut) you want to put your valley nail no closer than the diagonal bleeder strip nail line. It will be closer to 4" from the edge of the shingle and the glue line will bond the shingle. The bond/glue is what really helps shingles from blowing off once they have had a day or two of sun on them
Great work, The only thing I’m against is speed valley due to the fact your coming short on your key way steps there looking like 3 to 4 inch stagers. Closed cut allows you to control your steps. Here in Canada that roof will leak over time due to ice and snow. I do a lot of valley repairs for this reason. Cheers and keep up the hard work!
On that roof slope, I am not against his choice to let the valley dictate his set-back pattern. It looks to be around 5 plus inches? That would work in my region. What I don't like is the California Cheater Valley method. I've been roofing in southern california since the late 70's and hate that detail! Snap a line and do a real closed/cut valley!!!!
HELP.. Could you explain how to join shingles on a four way intersection connected at the same elevation.. one ridge is 12 12 the other is 6 12.. I put new dormers in a 12 12 roof, the dormers are 6 12 but the new ridges come together at the same elevation.. Thanks so much for your help!! I did subscribe!!
It looks like the ice and water shield is underneath your gutter apron in your next video I would put the ice and water shield over the top of the gutter apron! Otherwise, it’s a very good video
You said the shingles you where using where 11 1/2 inch wide and you multiply. What do you multiply? Sorry may be a dumb question but I’m trying to figure out what you multipled
A question that you might have a fair answer to. As a home owner, hiring a roofing contractor, how much of what you teach in your multitude of very helpful videos, would it be whize to ask about, or have put in a estimate/quote?
So you went streight with the ridge all the way down to the eve? Doesnt that make your reveal at the eve rally crooked and all the way up the roof just to make your ridge reveal streight and parallel???
If the house is out of square really bad. usually it is only an inch or two off which is very easy to hide over the course of the large run. The most important part to keep straight is at the ridge. If you are an inch or 2 off on a large side you will not see it
@@Lifes_Apprentice what do you mean it's easy 2 hide over the course of a large run? Dont you start to tilt it a inch or 2 at the very 1st eve shingle? Idk I think it would be very noticable, you should make a video about this
I have never in my life needed to do anything like this. Been roofing for 23 years. I would fire this guy on day one. His valley is absolute garbage and he uses his tool as a hammer. Bye bye
What's the purpose of running that shingle long ways all the way up the valley? I've been roofing 21 yrs,I no every1 has different ways of nailing,just couldn't figure out what that shingle would do other then having something to line your valley shingle to,an then you don't have to cut your valley shingles at the end ..what area is this in
These "speed valleys" on the left side of the dormer can be a nightmare for newer installers changing up their normal nail pattern for right handed installation. 99% of the time we build books up the right side on the left side of the valley and might need to piece in a double knife (15") shingle running into the valley
we never do. I have never seen another roofer in my area use them either. I have torn off one roof in my life (3tab) that had rake starters. I have done thousands of roofs. Never had a single issue
There should never be an issue, the reason why I do it, is because I overhang my shingles about 3/8 in on the gable and the starters keep it nice and straight.
Here's a dumb question...where/how do you start the very next run after the video ended? I ask because it seems like your going to run into 2 different nail patterns on each side of the peak. Plus adding that small piece at the peak seems like its gonna throw things off. Good work BTW. Just asking so I have an idea when I have to do mine.
yes you will have a different nail pattern for just the one row of shingles. If your nails end up in a bad spot when you run next row just use some sealant on that row
@amandacarroll9611 For 3 tabs you have to stay with the bond line. Whatever edge is on the line that same edge will be on the line all the way up and down if you run on a 6 inch bond. If you run a 5 inch they will stagger and you will have to step it down to get it to come out right. The architect dimensional shingles are most forgiving.
@@Lifes_Apprenticenail your tip row with a nail 1" from both sides of the shingle and add nails according to the new nail pattern. I'll often nail off the top of the shingle if I have guys potentially walking over the shingles. We just had a "journeyman installer" keyway 50+ shingles working out of a left handed book and being right handed
If you do it like that, it leaves a space on each side so you can run the next row either way and not have a nail in the seam. I like 1, space, 2 3 4 5 but sometimes you gotta change it up near obstacles and edges.
In the valley you have shingles running up to the peak then run your shingles to it, what’s the difference and the advantage of doing this instead of just popping a line and cutting them?
Fantastic. I always view shingles as exterior trim. There's nothing uglier than shingles at cap with a one inch real on one side and five inch reveal on the other.
I can tell you the best way to have your rows at the top of the dormer comes out perfect, but is old school and not many roofer take the time or effort to do is to back down the opposite side. Not hard and your rows will come out on the money.
I have many times on smaller runs. Thats not the point of the video though. I have been asked a million times how to do layout and thats what the video is showing
Atlas, owens corning, and GAF are far superior in my opinion... certainteed is installed on like 1 out of 4 houses in the US though so they are popular
@@Lifes_Apprentice In PA area certainteed shingles are sold as a better product than GAF. Many roofers here hate GAF because they get gritty and many issues with them not lasting or giving the same protection. They are more expensive that’s why I don’t like them but TAMKO shingles in my opinion is the best ones out to install and to repair or replace
I travel overseas allot. Buy a decent unlocked phone, and when I am back in the US I use mint mobile.. Decent service and GREAT prices. Never one problem. Just flew in from South America. Got the 15 GB for 3 months and a 30 gift card from Target. WOW
@@dustindupont3999 I started my company in 2009 and it was very hard the first 3 years. I didn;t make much money but after the first few years it has been great... I cannot complain
We’ll only thing I have to say is cool for making a video and great for you bro. But if I was there man watching this was good until it got cringy lol 😅 watching you go up the valley made me so anxious if I was there I would have been sweating eagerly to just get back to work lol 😅 the no starter thing and I get it if it’s peace work to just keep going up the valley without putting 2 shingles down at all times from the valley to the rakes but cringy for sure . I knew how to do this already it’s just nice to watch other videos and see how other peoples advice and ethic can help me grow my mental tool box . But I’m sure you’re probably making more than me anyways $28 hr over here in Cali sucks and I have been shingling for 7 years started roofing 8 years ago
You have some real skill placing nails in the wrong spot in a valley and also destroying your tool all at the same time. Good job! You would definitely be fired
no starters, above hip where top of valley meets ain't all that correct. I don't install that way. start on the smaller side you started 2nd. then they will tie end(meet up) better. Anyway that's all. every roofer does their installation different. take care
Not bad but my day shingles show 5 in to the weather You can start on the other side regular. Then when you get up about 12 courses to the top and start taking a loose shingle to a loose shingle and see how much you got to drop them That's how easy it is and the other side will meet up.
Im glad im doing my own roof , I dont care if it lines up perfectly , didnt need to take all that extra trouble, joy of home ownership, took a vacation with the time and money i saved. ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
1st u go with the lowest side not the lowest measurement to line up the other side. The lowest measurement would be the higher shingle. So That's wrong. There goes your margin of error plus 3/8. 2nd. After u determine your lowest side you get u a lin all the way across using the measurement from the lowest side (wich will be the higher number from the top) but u make the line = 5 & 1/2 from the number of the lowest side but do it on just each end to get 1 straight line all the way across so u cam have a straight line to measure off of and your top will come out the same across assuming it's straight so iff u had 164 and 163.5 u would go from top 158.5 from top and that'll straighten out your top. To get the bottom unsalted side you pull from your lowest line on top u just got all the way across to your highest bottom line and measure and find the first increment of 5.5 u cam hit wich should put your tape at a small angle. Do the same on other side to same measurement. If it doesn't reach scoot up another 5.5 higher now that you know wich increment will work best to perfectly hide any short shingles but dividing the distance out evenly. This also works for any step downs or to just straighten out top section so your top shingles are straight with the ridge. The reefer roofer. The higher I get the dryer you get
@Lifes_Apprentice the wrapped bundle that's layer over ridge can cause shingles warp not allowing to be layer flat. Just saying, especially when it's hot. A ton of weight on that bottom bundle forsure.
@@joshuaespinoza6331True, another thing this guy can improve. Look at all those bundles bent over the ridge, bro had almost 30 bundles all stacked at the same spot, creasing plenty shingles.
@@Lifes_Apprentice I watched it you used felt paper lines , you popped maybe 5 lines after you got the shingles crooked,it just takes 20 minutes to pop the whole roof,then there's no thinking involved,and it ends up straighter.just saying,not putting down your work,it's just easier and much quicker.
@@Lifes_Apprentice I know this That was my point. Maybe you should look to make that video. We both know it isn't often done anymore, but may have been worth mentioning in this video. Nice job though.
7:24, that’s what wrong with californa valleys, look at the stair steps, those are too small, if you read the instruction on the bundle is says 8 inches minimum try closed cut valleys there way better🎉
or you could paper on a decking line and use the lines that are given to you on the paper and then the top paper place on the ridge line, I hate when I see mf measuring on a roof and snapping lines, waste of time, there's a reason the paper has lines and marking on it
We usually follow the paper as well. In this ase the carpenters did the paper before we got there and I wanted to show how to lay it out for new people
En el valley pequeño, yo aprendi que siempre se guie uno con el dripedge, por que si se guia con el valley se enchueca arriba. Mas si el valley es largo.
man i don't know what i would do without this channel i'm redoing my roof on this old as hell house i bought, first time ever roofing and i hate this crap so much man🙏thank you for making these videos for idiots like me who think they're hard enough to roof their own house you're a godsend dude
I’m finding this out too, but learning how god awful this work is to do in the summer; almost by myself.
Problem is having to learn it without someone there telling me what to do a few times. I just shingle one side of my porch and once done I noticed I have a varying gap to the peak. I think nobody will notice but the next roofer, hopefully when I’m 70.
Thanks Justin on one video closer to becoming a roofer.
You have all of the training you need! lol
I decided to save myself a fortune and do my roof myself (limited roofing experience in the past), your videos are the only ones I used. You're a good teacher, thanks for your help.
Glad to help!
I like his valley method. GAF say to overlap them cut. I just don’t understand why they would have us use this method.
Who ever is just learning to shingle,, if you listen to this dude your going to go crazy and doubt yourself
.I promise you this dude made blending the valley in way more difficult then it is..
How else do you do it properly if you do not already know how????
@@Lifes_Apprentice I'm not going to say the way I do it cus your just going to ridicule the method.. all I'm saying is you're telling people to do it a way that you think is easy and it's not, it's easy to you because you've been doing it..
@@pimp1979robertmack It is easy if you can do basic math. You probably shingle out of the second valley from the top down and then shingle as normal. I do that too but that isnt how you teach people on youtube
Ummmm each line should be 45. Or 22 and a half
It's 5 5/8 reveal, just like it says on the package. I use theses shingles " certainteed" exclusively. Like millions of dollars a year. I have 5 other guys that I work with
What a great video. I like the way to layout the valley's. Never seen it done that way. Gives you a nice straight line in the valley
Glad you liked it!
Exactly the info I needed. Thank you.
Nice video! The way I like to handle these is to snap a reference line parallel with the main ridge, at a height of a few feet above the intersecting ridge.
I then shingle both sides up until they're 5 courses below the intersecting ridge height.
Take measurements of both sides against the reference line, and with those 5 courses of space I can drop either side up to 3" with ⅝" drops, which is enough to bring shingles into level even in the worst case where they'd otherwise be half-height out of phase.
There's a little bit of math, but it's fairly straightforward when you see it being done.
Bonus tip: for the last course before merging, only use 2 nails at either end of the shingles, work out where you'll want the merged course of shingles to be positioned, then fill in the rest of the nails, respective of where the keyways of the next course will be.
Thanks for sharing nice work
Awesome video. Only suggestion use a starter shingle on the rake edge with a 1 knuckle over hang
I also worry about nails in the keyways because of the nail pattern and left handed books being right handed.
1 knuckle overhang. Cmon man
Good job. The back of my house has no valley, but the front has a small one because of the roof over the front porch. Measure down from the ridge. I've already shingled the back of the house and I did measure down from the ridge doing that because I wanted to adjust where I started the first course a bit so the top course that gets capped would have a reasonable looking exposure. Now I tackle the front with a couple small closed valleys. Actually my very old house, the ridge has a bit of a sag in the middle. I measure down from the ridge at the ends of the ridge and snap lines all the way across. I will rely on your video on how to lay the shingles for the closed valleys.
Chalk a line for the starter. Chalk a line for the first shingle. From the top of your shingle make marks 11 1/4 and 22 1/2 on most achitect shingles. Chalk lines all the way up both sides. The line should be the same unless you make a mistake making your marks.
This is a really cool video and explanation of how you accomplished the differential of distance change
Thanks!
Good work 👍🏻
Thank you for showing us how to do roofing. You're an amazing job, and we appreciate your help. God bless
Our pleasure!
nice video bro thanks for sharing
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Your videos are very useful thank you
Thanks! I appreciate that!
I was just quoted $20k to do my roof. 26 square. I think I might be able to knock it out my self after watching your videos.
Don’t. Hire a company with good reviews and get multiple quotes don’t go with the cheapest one. Pay for what you get
Just know what you're getting into it's hard work
@kevingriffiss420 haha yea I went ahead and let them do the job. I did my small 12x20 barn style shed, and that took my 3 days, lol.
I got a question about roofing, dormers, etc. Any reason that I can't roof a dormer that dives into the main roof about half way up the main roof, before the lower parts? Just worried about tying it all in
Excellent!
Good work
Hey bud.. I went ahead and subscribed! You have taught me so much and i like your teaching style!! Thanks again L.T. Dan
Thank you!
Thank you thank thank you!
About 25 years ago I started weaving all valleys. Never had one leak ever. Thanks for the video.
Fantastic job
Thanks!
Hey do you have a video on doing the slope from beginning to end? We are planning to shingle our roof in April ourselves and I was going to take out porch roofs off to avoid and valleys but not am thinking about keeping them but I don’t want any chance of leaking in the valleys do to lack of experience. I found a couple videos but non on how the shingles at top of where two valleys meet should lay
I have videos on my channel. Look up my roofing playlist and you will find them there
Thx very detailed
That was a great video. I would hire you if I could.
I always use 22 1/2 or 45 just so my shingles wont show white line. And my valleys i raised them two at a time to keep em straigth. But good job looks good.
Absolutely correct 💯 22 1/2 , 45, 67 1/2, 90 and so on. Every fourth shingle will hit the line on the top side of the shingle. That fourth course will seemed dropped but true and straight (plus it covers that low nail ya just laid on the 3rd🤣). But first if you measure 13 1/4 inch from the edge of your gutter apron on the eaves bottom edge across the roof gable to gable, gable to valley etc. Then off of that line use the 22half,45,67half,90,112half THEN you have a recipe. Do that stuff and let me know how it goes for you. 👍 you be shooting lazers every roof.
Hello, for the valley. Do you go up 12 inches on the higher side of the roof? Does more of the shingle have to be on the higher side or lower. Some people do it differently, thanks
12-16 inches past the center
Just a question, why not use the one inch spacing from the end on the first nail staring from the valley? Is the nail not covered by the next shingle sloping further into the valley? I was just thinking about the corner lifting? Sincere question, I would like the understand the reasoning?
On a closed cut valley like this (California cut) you want to put your valley nail no closer than the diagonal bleeder strip nail line. It will be closer to 4" from the edge of the shingle and the glue line will bond the shingle. The bond/glue is what really helps shingles from blowing off once they have had a day or two of sun on them
Is there a way to avoid back stepping the stagger of the shingles in the valley?
awesome
You are right, many people mistake for the roof
Great work,
The only thing I’m against is speed valley due to the fact your coming short on your key way steps there looking like 3 to 4 inch stagers. Closed cut allows you to control your steps. Here in Canada that roof will leak over time due to ice and snow. I do a lot of valley repairs for this reason.
Cheers and keep up the hard work!
On that roof slope, I am not against his choice to let the valley dictate his set-back pattern. It looks to be around 5 plus inches? That would work in my region. What I don't like is the California Cheater Valley method. I've been roofing in southern california since the late 70's and hate that detail! Snap a line and do a real closed/cut valley!!!!
HELP.. Could you explain how to join shingles on a four way intersection connected at the same elevation.. one ridge is 12 12 the other is 6 12.. I put new dormers in a 12 12 roof, the dormers are 6 12 but the new ridges come together at the same elevation.. Thanks so much for your help!! I did subscribe!!
Thankyou. I haven't seen anyone do the ridge cap detail at the top of the valley
I have alot of HOW TO videos showing other roofing
It looks like the ice and water shield is underneath your gutter apron in your next video I would put the ice and water shield over the top of the gutter apron!
Otherwise, it’s a very good video
You said the shingles you where using where 11 1/2 inch wide and you
multiply. What do you multiply? Sorry may be a dumb question but I’m trying to figure out what you multipled
A question that you might have a fair answer to. As a home owner, hiring a roofing contractor, how much of what you teach in your multitude of very helpful videos, would it be whize to ask about, or have put in a estimate/quote?
So you went streight with the ridge all the way down to the eve? Doesnt that make your reveal at the eve rally crooked and all the way up the roof just to make your ridge reveal streight and parallel???
If the house is out of square really bad. usually it is only an inch or two off which is very easy to hide over the course of the large run. The most important part to keep straight is at the ridge. If you are an inch or 2 off on a large side you will not see it
@@Lifes_Apprentice what do you mean it's easy 2 hide over the course of a large run? Dont you start to tilt it a inch or 2 at the very 1st eve shingle? Idk I think it would be very noticable, you should make a video about this
I have never in my life needed to do anything like this. Been roofing for 23 years. I would fire this guy on day one. His valley is absolute garbage and he uses his tool as a hammer. Bye bye
Would've liked to see this video finished out to the top ridge
Easy to do with dimensional shingles.
Try it with t loks.
What's the purpose of running that shingle long ways all the way up the valley? I've been roofing 21 yrs,I no every1 has different ways of nailing,just couldn't figure out what that shingle would do other then having something to line your valley shingle to,an then you don't have to cut your valley shingles at the end ..what area is this in
WE are in wisconsin. This keeps it straight and prevent having to cut any shingles
I noticed you didn't run a starter up the rake. Is there a reason why?
So... the rest of the roof above the dormer just get ran from left to right like normal?
yes
These "speed valleys" on the left side of the dormer can be a nightmare for newer installers changing up their normal nail pattern for right handed installation. 99% of the time we build books up the right side on the left side of the valley and might need to piece in a double knife (15") shingle running into the valley
I normally back shingled it do u do that
If it is a small section. less than a square I do that
Do you not use starters on the gable?
we never do. I have never seen another roofer in my area use them either. I have torn off one roof in my life (3tab) that had rake starters. I have done thousands of roofs. Never had a single issue
There should never be an issue, the reason why I do it, is because I overhang my shingles about 3/8 in on the gable and the starters keep it nice and straight.
@@Lonestarexteriors We install D-edge and cut to that and it is just as straight
We always use starters plus give a 1 inch overhang all the way around. The only roofers who don't give overhang are Mexicans.
👍👍👍👍👍👍
Here's a dumb question...where/how do you start the very next run after the video ended? I ask because it seems like your going to run into 2 different nail patterns on each side of the peak. Plus adding that small piece at the peak seems like its gonna throw things off. Good work BTW. Just asking so I have an idea when I have to do mine.
yes you will have a different nail pattern for just the one row of shingles. If your nails end up in a bad spot when you run next row just use some sealant on that row
Life's Apprentice I had the same question using 3 tab. I'm wanting to replace my roof myself but a little worried about that part.
Same thing with 3 tabs... layout is a little different but pricipals are the same
@amandacarroll9611 For 3 tabs you have to stay with the bond line. Whatever edge is on the line that same edge will be on the line all the way up and down if you run on a 6 inch bond. If you run a 5 inch they will stagger and you will have to step it down to get it to come out right. The architect dimensional shingles are most forgiving.
@@Lifes_Apprenticenail your tip row with a nail 1" from both sides of the shingle and add nails according to the new nail pattern. I'll often nail off the top of the shingle if I have guys potentially walking over the shingles. We just had a "journeyman installer" keyway 50+ shingles working out of a left handed book and being right handed
the nails 234 are close to each other than 1 and 5....is it always like that?
If you do it like that, it leaves a space on each side so you can run the next row either way and not have a nail in the seam. I like 1, space, 2 3 4 5 but sometimes you gotta change it up near obstacles and edges.
Ive always liked the look of a cut edge but weaved is how i keep it. But i also live in the North East ❄️
In the valley you have shingles running up to the peak then run your shingles to it, what’s the difference and the advantage of doing this instead of just popping a line and cutting them?
I do not need to cut 40 feet of shingles in the valley????This is easier and faster
Fantastic.
I always view shingles as exterior trim.
There's nothing uglier than shingles at cap with a one inch real on one side and five inch reveal on the other.
Sometimes you run into a crooked house where your lines are off no matter what you do.
Starter up the rake isn't there & Shingles are cut flush with the edge Metal up the rake ? Why ??
Shut up dude
Good point! No starter hanging over 1/4" and glue strip for tack
Can't wait to learn more from you! Thanks Brother! ❤
I can tell you the best way to have your rows at the top of the dormer comes out perfect, but is old school and not many roofer take the time or effort to do is to back down the opposite side. Not hard and your rows will come out on the money.
No starter on the rake?
Have you ever gone from the top down?
I have many times on smaller runs. Thats not the point of the video though. I have been asked a million times how to do layout and thats what the video is showing
Why is drip edge over the ice and water?
And no starter strip 😮?
In my area I prefer the Certainteed Landmark shingles
Atlas, owens corning, and GAF are far superior in my opinion... certainteed is installed on like 1 out of 4 houses in the US though so they are popular
Over here IKO is the most popular, I've heard of Atlas before, but never seen them.
@@Lonestarexteriors Everywhere in North america has a bit different selection. We do not get IKO here at any of my suppliers
@@Lifes_Apprentice In PA area certainteed shingles are sold as a better product than GAF. Many roofers here hate GAF because they get gritty and many issues with them not lasting or giving the same protection. They are more expensive that’s why I don’t like them but TAMKO shingles in my opinion is the best ones out to install and to repair or replace
I travel overseas allot. Buy a decent unlocked phone, and when I am back in the US I use mint mobile.. Decent service and GREAT prices. Never one problem. Just flew in from South America. Got the 15 GB for 3 months and a 30 gift card from Target. WOW
duration is the best shingle
No starter strip? Probably some dryer and less windy locations can get away with it.
Looks good tho
I made this video as an example for someone who doesnt have a clue really and I only snap lines like this maybe half the time
U do good work I want to start my own company is it hard
@@dustindupont3999 I started my company in 2009 and it was very hard the first 3 years. I didn;t make much money but after the first few years it has been great... I cannot complain
Wouldn't it be easier to measure and snap lines in the beginning before it's already going off?
Yes it would be...But you don't want to watch all that and I got the point across...
We’ll only thing I have to say is cool for making a video and great for you bro. But if I was there man watching this was good until it got cringy lol 😅 watching you go up the valley made me so anxious if I was there I would have been sweating eagerly to just get back to work lol 😅 the no starter thing and I get it if it’s peace work to just keep going up the valley without putting 2 shingles down at all times from the valley to the rakes but cringy for sure . I knew how to do this already it’s just nice to watch other videos and see how other peoples advice and ethic can help me grow my mental tool box . But I’m sure you’re probably making more than me anyways $28 hr over here in Cali sucks and I have been shingling for 7 years started roofing 8 years ago
I was doing $35 a sq putting down sometimes 6 and even 7 sq in an hour 30 min.
I like the way you work it’s only one thing that I don’t like seeing you using your nail gun is a hammer
It is a bad habit for sure
why are you doing rake edge with no starter and cutting flush with rake edge leak leak leak
Good video! Your a caveman you used the gun as a hammer 😂😂😂
How are you so off when you chalked aso many lines
You have some real skill placing nails in the wrong spot in a valley and also destroying your tool all at the same time. Good job! You would definitely be fired
Thanks. I own the tools and My phone number is on the bid. I am not worried at all
You could just butt those those shingles at the ridge. Put a piece for what?
Using a roofing nailer as a hammer is the most roofer thing Ive ever seen😂
You need roof cement too!!
no starters, above hip where top of valley meets ain't all that correct. I don't install that way. start on the smaller side you started 2nd. then they will tie end(meet up) better. Anyway that's all. every roofer does their installation different. take care
First
You are on another roll!
that speed rack valley doesnt have no where near 5 and 58ts exposure looks like 4 inches leak
I mark my lines 18in then the rest 45in
Not bad but my day shingles show 5 in to the weather You can start on the other side regular. Then when you get up about 12 courses to the top and start taking a loose shingle to a loose shingle and see how much you got to drop them That's how easy it is and the other side will meet up.
Broo certainteed has theeee smallest common bond mann but i only use them or atlas
Im glad im doing my own roof , I dont care if it lines up perfectly , didnt need to take all that extra trouble, joy of home ownership, took a vacation with the time and money i saved.
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1st u go with the lowest side not the lowest measurement to line up the other side. The lowest measurement would be the higher shingle. So That's wrong. There goes your margin of error plus 3/8. 2nd. After u determine your lowest side you get u a lin all the way across using the measurement from the lowest side (wich will be the higher number from the top) but u make the line = 5 & 1/2 from the number of the lowest side but do it on just each end to get 1 straight line all the way across so u cam have a straight line to measure off of and your top will come out the same across assuming it's straight so iff u had 164 and 163.5 u would go from top 158.5 from top and that'll straighten out your top. To get the bottom unsalted side you pull from your lowest line on top u just got all the way across to your highest bottom line and measure and find the first increment of 5.5 u cam hit wich should put your tape at a small angle. Do the same on other side to same measurement. If it doesn't reach scoot up another 5.5 higher now that you know wich increment will work best to perfectly hide any short shingles but dividing the distance out evenly. This also works for any step downs or to just straighten out top section so your top shingles are straight with the ridge.
The reefer roofer. The higher I get the dryer you get
Shingles are never supposed to be layed over ridge!
What are you talking about?
@Lifes_Apprentice the wrapped bundle that's layer over ridge can cause shingles warp not allowing to be layer flat. Just saying, especially when it's hot. A ton of weight on that bottom bundle forsure.
@@joshuaespinoza6331True, another thing this guy can improve. Look at all those bundles bent over the ridge, bro had almost 30 bundles all stacked at the same spot, creasing plenty shingles.
Just pop lines from the beginning,saves all that crooked roofing, it only takes 15 minutes,then you save soo much time and the roof isn't Crooked.😅
That is what the video was about...Did you watch it?
@@Lifes_Apprentice I watched it you used felt paper lines , you popped maybe 5 lines after you got the shingles crooked,it just takes 20 minutes to pop the whole roof,then there's no thinking involved,and it ends up straighter.just saying,not putting down your work,it's just easier and much quicker.
@@gregory4247 You can snap as many lines as you would like. You can also make your own videos showing people how to do it
@@Lifes_Apprentice but your showing people the wrong way boss.why make it so difficult?
@@gregory4247 Why does anyone need a line for every course? That makes it more difficult. I said in the video you can snap as many lines as needed
At 7:13 and up your seams are way too close. Looks like 3 inches it needs to be at least 6. Cut back the right side of your shingles if you have too.
5.625 or 5 5/8 '' 6" is the max
Where are your starters strips 6:00
Lol roofer
Now do that with 3 tab shingles.
I can do 3 tabs as well but the process is much different
@@Lifes_Apprentice I know this That was my point. Maybe you should look to make that video. We both know it isn't often done anymore, but may have been worth mentioning in this video. Nice job though.
7:24, that’s what wrong with californa valleys, look at the stair steps, those are too small, if you read the instruction on the bundle is says 8 inches minimum try closed cut valleys there way better🎉
The bundle will never say 8 inches or more. They will say 6 inch offsets and any multiple of 6 inches based on a 12 inch nail pattern
I always strike a line and go down backwards problem solved
One bundle or so I would do that but a couple square like that no way. I would fire you for being lazy thats dumb AF
You forgot to step them shingles 6" minimum.
Look at the due right next to that edge without even flinching lol not me . I don’t do ladders or roofs . I pay a guy . I know my limit
Roof or die
Certaineed - Certainly guaranteed to be shitt
I agree! I do not like them for any reason as an installer
Dude, lay the whole roof out! Smh
or you could paper on a decking line and use the lines that are given to you on the paper and then the top paper place on the ridge line, I hate when I see mf measuring on a roof and snapping lines, waste of time, there's a reason the paper has lines and marking on it
We usually follow the paper as well. In this ase the carpenters did the paper before we got there and I wanted to show how to lay it out for new people
those are not rows, they are courses.
No sirve tu trabajo
En el valley pequeño, yo aprendi que siempre se guie uno con el dripedge, por que si se guia con el valley se enchueca arriba. Mas si el valley es largo.
Lazy
Where ur starter at man that’s rong
Huh! None up the rake shingles cut flush with the edge Metal
certainteeds do really suck
Than tell me wats better
Why are you making videos about roofing when you don't know what you are doing?