MWD HQ New Door English Oak
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- čas přidán 26. 02. 2022
- #Woodworking #mediaeval #Door
My new channel - / @mwdesigns3764
Instagram - / manorwooddesigns
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Web Site - www.manorwooddesigns.co.uk
Patreon - / manorwood
Facebook - / manorwooddesigns
Amazon shop - www.amazon.co.uk/shop/manorwood
Stuff used -
Whitehill Festool Block
www.whitehill-tools.com/cutte...
Titman Flush Trim cutters
titman.co.uk/product-category...
Titman Weatherseal Recessing & Seals
titman.co.uk/product/weathers...
Wood Repair Thermelt
woodworksupply.co.uk/collecti...
Discount Code MWD10
Portable Drill Press
www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01FQZD73...
Ruwi Lift Table
ruwi.de/en/wood-line/lifting-...
Ruwi Saw clamps
ruwi.de/en/wood-line/saw-safe...
Hard wax Oil - www.amicusuk.co/heidelberg
Discount code - ManorWood5 - Jak na to + styl
Wow ! When I started as an apprentice in the workshop in 89 the one main thing I was taught when doing circular work on the spindle was NEVER PUT YOUR FINGERS ON THE INSIDE EDGE OF THE WORKPEICE !
If that cutter snatches that material your didgets are straight into that cutter.
Piece
🙀
We had a guy who did just that! YTS kid had to pick bits of finger (nail still attched) out of the machine for weeks after.... makes me kringe watching this guy work
you need a pin doing that plus work from both sides not just run it through you'll loose your hand
A very comprehensive, well narrated video. That 5-centred door style, when well executed as here, is among the most stylish possible. A couple of comments, none negative towards MW, that might help others.
All the equipment that MW has makes a precison job easier and quicker than in my workshop which has normal “trade” machinery (very much in the Axminster Trade category; so very nice but a level or 2 below MW). But it’s entirely possible to do for most serious hobbyists. I can say that because I’ve made oak doors and very pleased with it. We had to make a new front door and frame for our Grade II listed building. Anyone in the auto probably knows this but having a building listed (ie it has some architectural importance) means that there restrictions on what you can do without the guidance of the local Conservation Officer. Grade I is the “highest” meaning you can even paint a wall without approval for the paint and the colour. Grade II is less restrictive but we had to get approval from the Conservation Officer who, frankly, knew little but spoke a lot. Anyway, he eventually agreed a European oak panelled door. The frame and door had to fit into the existing opening which was theoretically a rectangle but was anything but.
We made a template from the opening for the frame and, from that, the door. Do it slowly, accurately and it’s not hard. We made the door out of 40mm thick European Oak with only 3 horizontal braces - also 40mm. All glued and screwed. I was expecting splitting afterwards but, strangely, it hasn’t happened. What does happen almost on a daily basis is that the door warps left to right. Not a huge amount but you notice it because some days, the bolt slides in very easily; 2 days later and you have to use a bit of force to get the bolt in. Ours, like MW, is under a small canopy or porch and I think that’s essential .we used Osmo undercoat and top coat on it and, since 2013, it hasn’t needed a re-coat.
So, don’t be thinking you can’t do it. If you bought ready planed oak and had a track saw and router, then you can make these. You won’t do it quickly, you will be making multiple passes whereas a big machine can do it in one and couldn’t make a profit doing it, but it’s entirely possible. There is no secret but the key for me is templates. Templates, templates and more templates for every curve. Spend a lot of time making accurate templates and you will make all the other operations easier. In fact, I make 2 templates of everything so that, if one template gets damaged, I have another exact duplicate ready to had. I keep one of each template in store and use anything else as material for the next templates.
My workshop is a fraction of the size of MW at 8m x 8m ( never measured it, so a guess). In that, I have a timber rack which has a footprint of 2.5m x 2m - so, a luxury space when set against most serious hobbyist but space can be tight. My band saw, planer/thicknesser, router table, drill press, sander and lathe are all on castors with shop made castor-lifting so that, when required, all the units sit on their solid feet. All are set around the perimeter and I can use them all there for small pieces but when I have an 8’ length for example, I pull the machine out in the middle and get the required space either side.
Like MW, I work mostly on my own; unfortunately, I’m probably 30 years older. That means that easy lifting is absolutely essential. The Felder FAT or RUWI tables are very nice but the price! You can buy less expensive ‘nearly’ version from many places and I seriously looked at the Itech version. In the end, I was able to get a used mains-electric static lift table for £220 delivered - and I’ve seen others since. Boy, this is heavy. I made a torsion box chassis with very HD castors and had to have help lifting the table on to that. I have a MFT style top ready to put on top but just haven’t done it yet. The mains electric is a blessing but you have to be careful. In a small shop like mine, a power socket is never far away and I just uncurl the mains cable, plug in, lift or lower, unplug and move the table where i want it. In that way, I use it just as MW uses their lift tables except that mine Laos operates an an infeed/out feed table for all the machines.
So, if you decide to give it a go, just follow all the steps shown by MW but substitute your equipment for his.
If I could give this a thousand thumbs-ups I would. First of you’r videos I’ve watched and already learned more new tips than from the other last 50 random woodworking videos!
Well that is some door. Great to see a nice wide opening. The groving using the Festool saw I had not seen before it make a lot of sence and is a help in a door that I am making. Thank you, can't wait to see a workshop tour when you are done
The Phoenix.
Imagine having a workshop that big! Almost like the videos from the states😮
It is great seeing what a well-equipped shop can do. That door is amazing!
The door looks fantastic, but put me in the same well-equiped shop and I will NOT be able to do what he does. It has more to do with the expertise, talent, and creativity of the worker (artist) than the money spent on tools. Great tools will of course increase your throughput, reproducibility, and precision but are not a substitute for the years needed to develop your craft.
@@mountainousterrain1704 Agree completely. I definitely wouldn’t demean Andy’s skill.
End result is superb. It's much bigger and heavier than I thought based on the previous video.
Absolutely beautiful the hammered steel hinges are a class touch too.
That is one HELL of a door superb job. Life is easier with the right tools to do it but you need the craftmanship and the vision to do it which Andy you have all off it TOP CLASS JOB as usual cheers for sharing
Beautiful job as ever, Andy ! I love oak and that door would look fantastic in english elm as well.
absolutely stunning such a joy to watch you working what a door you must be so proud of your work
thanks for sharing Paul
A very good looking door. An appropriate entrance to MW HQ.😀🇬🇧
Fantastic job on solid oak door. Well equipped workshop and great attention to detail
Great video! I really enjoyed the longer and more detailed format. The door looks great.
Beautiful & precise work. The narrative is also just perfect. Explaining how & why.
Brilliant job the door looks superb. Some nice spindle moulding operations. Those lift tables are a fantastic workshop tool, they definitely help save your back.
Good to see you back on top form Andy, you’re an inspiration to us all pal 👍
Simple,……just a piece of art! RESPECT,!
Love your videos, your strategies, your tools....inspiring work mate!
Amazing craftsmanship, must be lovely having all the kit!!, but you still need to know how to use it.
Incredible work as usual...Lawd have mercy, that spindle is a monster!!!
Amazing craftsmanship as always.
Totally enjoyed that It’s good to see you back in swing of things
Thanks man !
Absolutely brilliant Andy 👍👍👍👍
Lovely work as always!
Nice job ,looks the part fitted.
That is gorgeous! Love this kind of content.
Top quality work as always
Il est précieux ton chariot, vu le poids de la porte. Sacré travail. Elle est belle ta porte, elle est à l’image de ton atelier. Belle combinaison. 👏👏👏👏
Beautiful door and awesome craftmanship
The amount of skill is truly amazing
Fabulous in every way. Bravo.
Nice work!
Absolutely love this door
Luvin the old style. Beautiful.
That's was a Amazing Video manor wood and your workshop looking very nices Amazing workshop door keep up the hard work.
Wow! Beautiful.
Amazing door, keep up the good work.
Fantastic 🥂👍🥂
Great work, I really enjoyed watching this.
That is a beautiful door! It reminds me of the old door on a Tudor-style house we used to own. The door had what I called a "peaked arch" like the one you made here. I had not seen one before or since until this one. The door was out of walnut and it was also a real beauty like this one. Thanks for the memories!
I love that style door and am a massive fan of old English oak from c11th to c17th .. I have seen many examples on my time. So in the UK you would never see a Walnut door as its a fruit wood and not for outside use here . thx for you comment man:)
@@ManorWood Well, now that you mention it, it might have been an oak door but it was stained very dark. And it's been 20+years since I've seen it and I've killed some brain cells since then so I can't held responsible for my memories. Best of luck to you.
Beautiful workshop, doors r great also :)
lovely looking door
stunning! thanx 4 sharing
Pleased your enjoying the cutterblock 👍 I designed it, made all the drawings and paid a fortune for Whitehill to make me one an as a custom block, now they stock it on the website for cheaper FML.
Mine only has the two knives, after some feedback they added a third, I assume it cuts quite smoothly?
I ought to be getting royalties lol
Hi there, I have no idea who designed it. I’ve been using Whitehill stuff for years and I know Drew quite well. I had an order for a cabinet which will be coming soon to CZcams and wanted me to copy the details of a magnet kitchen believe it or not on the side. So I looked around how to do a bead and that’s the first thing I found well done for the design mate hey. Seems to cut really smooth I’m not exactly sure which speed to run the sora been experimenting with different words but so far so good
The author does like to from scratch, czcams.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. As another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us don’t have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we won’t be able to practise the full stack project, is still great.
Fantastic Job Love The Channel
I found that fascinating. I am not sure that it was useful for me as I could never be capable of that type of work. Thank you for taking the time to produce such high quality CZcams videos.
Amazing ... nice door.
Looks fantastic…
Looks great.
Cool door. Cool method
loved it
Es una puerta muy bella... felicidades!!!
Lovely
Watching this video i can smell the oak.... Great!
Complimenti, bellissimo lavoro!👍👍
Spectacular door
Nice job
Wow that was incredible! Not only an awesome finished product, the way you work is outstanding! I’ve liked and subscribed 👌🏻👍🏻
Hi man, welcome thank you
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
great work ;its well made ;;
Oh, wow!
Awesome.
luar biasa ...alatnya canggih
Looks very nice much respect for how confident you drive the nails in on a finished surface
If you glue up wood 90 degree in the grain direction won't it bend hard when the weather changes?
Cheers, I live in the UK I don’t expect to have any problem with any twisting or bending
Goes well with the OSB 😏, nice job
Thanks 😅
glueing that frame to the back of the plank door is a mistake, the ouside face of the planks are going to want to expand with the they are constrained buy frame on the other side glued to back meaning its going to bend like a banana. (good way to build a lighthouse door
You also need a crown and shaw guard on your spindle when doing curved work if you head lifted over that bearing you would be in a hell of a lot of trouble
Didn't make an external doors like this for almost 20 years, the only difference is been using the domino to make the rear frame quicker today never had a problem if I do and it bananas to be seeing it on the channel thanks again for your comments really appreciate it
Timber moves more cross grain than it moves long grain youve just stopped it moving on the back, itll bend like a barrel
We used to make internal plank doors and used to glue the battans on the back just like you just done, they would come back all the time because the bent. So we stopped glueing the battans on the back and just started screwing them, they stopped bending.
No allowance for expansion and contraction of the the Oak Tongue and grooved boards. When you make a framed,ledged and boarded door or a ledged and boarded door its vital to allow for the timber to move with the seasons/heat,humidity etc and this door allows for none of that and you should never glue the joints and there should be 2mm spacing between the joints depending on moisture content of the oak. That door will bow ,100% guaranteed and when the boards shrink they will more than likely split because you didn't allow for movement. There is a fabulous Joinery book called "Modern Practical Joinery " by George Ellis. Highly reccomend it and although its a very old book it explains why you need to allow for movement when making joinery along with how to correctly make Joinery . If you make another one, make a traditional Framed and ledged Mortice and Tenon door , hang the door in the frame and then last job fit the tongue and grooved boards last that way you've done all the humping around with a lighter door. On external oak doors always avoid using the sapwood as it rots very quickly.
With respect the way you used the spindle moulder and had your left hand over the Oak (ie spindle side of the oak was terrible.If that spindle block snatched the Oak your hand would be pulled into the block quicker than you can blink. I would strongly urge you to sign up on a coarse on how to use the machine. I enjoy your channel ,making tables etc is really good but the way you use a spindle moulder and make Doors etc is pretty poor. Sorry if that sounds negative but you are showing others how to make Joinery so at the very least you should know how to use the machines safely or put a disclaimer up. Spindle moulders and table saws in particular can take hands off quicker than you can pull your hand away. New workshop looks great and my advice is based on 35+yrs as a qualified Joiner but feel free to ignore my advice.
All good points , as I said if the door twist I will re make them in a more traditional method, what is the shops completely finished i’ll have more time more detailed work on my own stuff ! But as I said done these before (for my own use) and don’t expect a problem based on the location of the door .
These videos when making furniture are not instructional and should not ! be used as a reference to how to use a tool or machine. You can’t see on a video how a particulars task feels and often Camera Angle play’s a big part in what people see. Modern sharp cutter block with bears guide taking off very small amounts , is a long way for the old days !! And people should also know that . As always thanks for you support and feedback Andy
Beautiful detailing. A novice question: You did not add in any diagonal bracing to prevent the door racking over time from its own weight. Are these features not required when using a glued subframe?
Glue does the job ! Plus large hindges
Andy, Your Door is Absolutely Beautiful, And we will just leave it at that, No negative remarks on some of your methods are needed ! You are a Professional after all... Well done mate 👍👍
Thanks 👍
Nice looking door. Have you seen parallel jigs for the sliding table? Not sure about Altendorf, but definitely available for Felder sliding tables. It makes cutting boards very easy and you do not have to rely on the rip fence. Thanks for the video. Cheers, David
I haven’t, sounds like a really good idea though. I guess the one thing is now I’ve got the motorised fence and I’m getting used to using it is pretty quick I could see a parallel fence would be really handy
@@ManorWood It's much easier cutting long boards (provided they're not longer than the sliding table) with the sliding table than trying to wrestle with them against the RIP fence.
Solid bit of woodworking. That’s going outlast us all! I wish I could use this much proper wood. Are you planning on setting up better dust extraction?
Cheers, yeah watch this space I already have a better extractor I just need to expand the pipe dimensions. And you see in the next couple of weeks and put in the large extraction next to the Sander externally I've got to 300mm duct coming . its just all down to time at the moment and getting back up to space . I have a new RL200 now
Subscribed. Very simple yet very good looking design. Your woodwork place is packed with really pro tools. Wow. There must be at least £200 000 in it. I'm jealous a bit. I presume the very same door would be doable to make with tools for £2000 but it would literally took 10 times longer if not longer and time is the 💰 🤑 💸
Long before videos I made a tour exactly like this 25 years ago, all I had was a trend router and a Dewalt circular saw handheld no track, I had a small planer thicknesser, cost about 200 quid, it is definitely possible how do you say just a bit slower I’m big toes like this without lift tables and heavy machinery sometimes you need an extra set of hands, another really good idea is to have the oak of the word planed up a machine ready for construction if you don’t have the big tools that’s the main difference
@@ManorWood fair enough
Great video - door looks beautiful. Did you build in any room for expansion on the planks and if so how much gap did you leave?
8mm each side and top
Can anyone tell me about that hot melt patching of knots and voids , etc? that is awesome. I am to dumb to find the description mentioned. Thanks!
Wonderful door! But how will you prevent the iron nails from staining the oak?
Cheers .. I Like the staining :) and the oak going grey .
Brilliant build Andy, Is your drill guide not the famag one? Looks similar
Cheers , Yes thats the make :)
Beautiful door and thanx for showing the hk cutter!
Only thing I really have doubts about is the glueing of the frame with crossing grain direction. Especially with this beeing an outside door you will get moisture levels varying between inside and out and with that different rates of expantion. It is bound to warp or crack, so why do it this way?
Open them at this for years including outside doors I've never had a problem there will be some movement but nothing that extreme.
if it does I will let you all know
@@ManorWood I hope I'm wrong, would make constructing a few doors I have to make in the near future a lot easier....
@@ManorWood Do you have swings in humidity where you live or is it pretty consistent?
Looking at all your drills, think it's time I got rid of my yankee 😒
What power did you spec for your f45 please? Seems to cut absolutely beautifully
Hmm I thick 7.5 kw
Nice Andy. I love your oak projects. That is one heck of a pair of hinges
I have often wondered the strength difference between traditional M&T and lose tenons (dominoes) if modern glues are as good as the propaganda says then no difference
Pros and cons to all types of joinery, since the domino come along accuracy and time is definitely increased with minimal kit and minimal set up and almost no test cuts , if you have the machinery for M&T and you’re going to do a lot of repeat work and that’s a way to go. Also being paid by Client for a top-notch job you can take your time and use the largest biggest wood joint possible to help secure things, if you are generating work for yourself sometimes using resin and a domino just keeps things more fun quicker and less the time
@@ManorWood keeping it fun always helps
That shaper is terrifying.
It’s ok , with a shape cutter fitted !
What brand/type of wood glue do you use? I notice folks in GB use a white glue. In US our glue tends to be yellowish!?
I never heard that before about bandsaw blades!?
Very nice door. Do you not foresee any issues with such a massive cross grain glue joint?
Cheers , no never had a problem before , but I am in the Uk
I hope I am going to learn something here... slightly surprised at the cross-grain glue up over such a wide door where the panels have been glued together. I wonder whether that large door panel will be restricted by the horizontal bracing when it expands and contracts and may split? I thought you would screw through slightly enlarged holes, no glue to allow it to move. Beautiful piece!
Gotta remember, he’s building it for him self.
I brake all the rules when building for myself.
Regardless of who the piece is for H & S should be considered at all times especially when it's on a public platform.
Yes I'm as guilty as the next man sometimes for not maybe being 100% safe but something so simple as that isn't great practice.
been doing it for years I made it all like this over 20 years , some movement but never anything as extreme as people think
@@ManorWood Great, thank you, perhaps I have worried too much about that.
Andy any change of a link for the hardware supplies, nails, hinges and lock. Thanks buddy.
Google “from the anvil”
Hello! good job !! what kind of saw blade is that 17.40min for the festool.. thanks!
I’m sorry the way CZcams shows the comments I can’t see what you’re talking about but I would’ve expected it to be a link in the description for anything used please let me know
professional work !!!!!!!!!! if i, can ask what kind of pencil you use? in minute 9:22
I think if you search carpenters pencil on Amazon I’ll try and put one in my Amazon shop I can’t member the name of it
Any advice on where to get those nails from?
Where have bought the drill holder for the festool? To drill straight.
My Amazon store
3:34 looks like you had some tear-out on the arch. did you have to redo it?
no , I did a final pass with a Router which was clean
A door fit for a Mansion... @23:52 Aren't old socks wonderful ? lol
Cheers man, I love old socks for Robin oil off really quick:). I’m a big recycler other people have seen old boxer shorts on here as well LOL
That is a serious sized bit on that spindle! do you even call that a bit??? It probably called the whole thing!
Nice external door, but I didn't see a drip in your planted on weather strip
drip ?
@@ManorWood The weather strip/board/bar (there seems to be a few different names for it) that you planted on the outside face of your external door, its purpose is to protect the bottom of the door from the elements. When I did my City & Guilds back in the early 80's we were taught to always put a drip in them to stop the capillary action of water getting to the bottom of the door, in the same way you would put a drip in a window sill.
whyd didnt you get the felder sliding saw since most your other tools are felder
Just like a F45 always wanted one, And the older WA6 I had was absolutely amazing with a 3 m slider for the money couldn’t fault it
Hello where did you get this yellow drill holder???
As I said in the video I can’t remember I’ve had it years. Just Google portable drill holders
The spindle molder has got to be the biggest angriest machine I've ever laid eyes on.
As a one man band how do you afford such a large workshop and all that amazing machinery? I know your work is exceptional but still people will only pay so much money for high end work?I am a carpenter myself also more than a little envious 😆
Well I was lucky enough to buy a farm which had the workshop set up, obviously I’ve now had a fire and rebuilt it exactly how I want it. Lots of the machines before the new rebuilt with secondhand some destroyed in the fire I’ve put the money towards other machines again looking for bargains. Tables can be quite expensive that helps, I spend hundreds of hours editing CZcams videos to help find clients via Google and it really helps but you need to put a lot of time in after work and it isn’t easy Building a CZcams following take me already five years
First off you do excellent work and you have an awesome setup. Watching your chanel is like watching tool porn. Thanks for sharing with us and keep up the good work. What I’d like to know is we’re did you get that top for your fat 500? It doesn’t look like they offer it on the felder e-shop? It’s HPl coated like the multiplex top for the fat 300 you have just without the drawer and storage space. Also do you think the Barth tables are worth the money over the Felder? Bigger dog holes means you have to buy their rack and pinion clamps starter set and that’s like $2400.00 or so. What do you think Sensei?
I gone my top from Ruwi . I don’t know the other brand of tables , I am thicking about the mid size fat300 next when I finally get my 2nd room up and running , and save the small one for in and out feed stuff