Replace Leaking Shaft Seal on Pentair Pool Pump
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- čas přidán 7. 07. 2024
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Seal Rebuild kit ($23): amzn.to/3poI3yl
ScrewDrivers, need #2 Philips: amzn.to/2ZcxdRe
Open end Wrenches, need 9/16": amzn.to/3C56Z1y
Allen Keys, need 3/32" : amzn.to/3Gj9yj8
Hammer: amzn.to/3vwFyLs
PVC Coupler idea: amzn.to/2XwqQaK
Anti-Seize grease: amzn.to/3aZLSlm
Pump Lid O-ring: amzn.to/472i6In
Pump Cap Lid: amzn.to/4701Asi
4 bolts from the pump to motor torque specs: turns out the manual doesn't specify so hand tighten once all bolts are secured in place in a clockwise fashion.
6 bolts from the pump to pump housing torque specs: turns out the manual doesn't specify so hand tighten once all bolts are secured in place in a clockwise fashion.
Written instructions on disassembling and reassemble by Pentair and Diagram: www.dropbox.com/s/xnyltp3afxz...
Parts list and model numbers:
Diffuser O-Ring 355227 or 071444, Lid O-Ring (Pumps After 11/98) 350013
Seal Plate Gasket Black, 357100/357100Z (Pumps Manufactured After-2/1/08) Impeller Gasket 075713 and Drain Plug O-Rings (2) 192115.
US Seal PS-1000 Shaft Seal, O-Ring Lube and Directions.
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pool,pump,pentair,intelliflo,leak,dripping,replace,repair,o-ring,shaft,seal,diy,fixitwithjake,water,replacement,rebuild - Jak na to + styl
It has been about two years since this repair. I’m happy to report. It has been reliable and no issues with this pump for two years. This is clearly demonstrating that you can replace these seals and it will last much longer and save your pump.
This video was excellent. Thank you for sharing with us. I did call U.S. Steel to ask about the lubricant and they don’t recommend you use the Dynatex or any other lubricant. He suggested 50/50 water and Dawn. Cure time with this is 20min
Thank you for the excellent research and sharing for all of us Jason!
@@fixitwithjake I have 2 small o rings in the bag and I’m not sure where they go?
Outstanding! What I liked most of your tutorial is you encountered several issues that we as pool technicians face when replacing the MSS. Your camera work and explanation was perfect.
Thank you!
Very welcome.
Just a quick heads up in case anyone else needs to know- the exact size PVC coupler needed to put the shaft seal in place in the seal plate is a Schedule 40- 1” Coupler. Just got it at Lowe’s and it fits perfectly.
🙏🏽
Very clear instructions and good tips
It was fun to watch this. As a pool tech I've replaced 1000's of seals, these take about 25 minutes, Hayward ones maybe a 15 minute job. I use all cordless pocket drivers and extensions but for those motor plate bolts they can really get seized. Generally a long breaker bar and 6 point socket get the job done but if it's too stuck time for a new motor or pump. Anyways, nice job and totally agree with putting on some anti-seize. Sometimes in a pinch I'll put a dot of o-ring lube on the bolts... never had one work loose doing this and years later they came out easily.
Very helpful tips! Glad I am not the only one that struggles with the seized bolts. Breaker bar would have been helpful.
Thank you Jake, you save me thousands of dollars.
Happy to hear that! I changed the shaft seal on this pump in 2019. It is now 2024 and no leaks. So it has increased its life by at least 4-5 years already.
That was a really detailed and well put together video. Definitely making me consider trying to fix this leak by myself. Thanks.
I think you will be ok. It is a lot of work to basically change one small seal. Let us know how it goes!
Best instructional video ever! Thank You!!!! I also really appreciate including the parts list with links to purchase. You Made My Day :-) Bravo Bravo!
Thank you Darren. Please let us know how it goes! When people share parts list and links it saves me a ton of time searching!!!
I've been looking for a video like this for over 3 weeks. This is the best videos step by step I love it I am going to do it screw my pool man he was trying to rip me off. Thank you so much for your help
As a pool guy, I would charge around $200 for this.
I used sockets instead of PVC couplings. Thank you for making this video. Really helped !!! Excellent job !!!
Sockets are a good idea! Glad it helped!
Very thorough.. Thank You!!
Very thorough. Thanks.
Thank you for watching. Glad you enjoyed it!
Absolutely outstanding video. Just completed the project. Thank you very much for your help, tutorial and great video. 👍
Wow, that is great! I love when my videos can help the next person out! That’s what it is all about!
Great video! Thanks!
....my next weekend project lol
Sounds like a busy weekend lol
I couldn’t get the impeller off and chipped it trying to use opposing screwdrivers … ultimately remembered I had a strap wrench and it came right off
Strap wrench is a great tip! Thank you!
Nice video, thanks
Same thing here. Same exact problems.
Great Video, I was able to do it all myself. What if it was still leaking when I was done? :( I don't want to buy another pump. What about a stronger seal? More Forgiving? Thanks.
If you let that leak for too long, it will destroy the front motor bearing. That's what happened to my 2,000.00 2.7 HP variable speed pump(JVS270S) from Leslies. Luckily I was able to find the bearings and replaced both the front and rear.
Good call. Mine has been purring nicely ever since this repair with no issues. Where were you able to find the part numbers for the bearings?
@@fixitwithjake It's on the bearings, so you will need to open the motor to see it. In my case for the mentioned pump, it has two 6203DW bearings.
Toque 70LBS for backing plate and 110LBS for the other bolts
What an awesome video!! I noticed a small leak on mine with the corroded paint as well. Time to fix it! I will be using your video. You said you bought 3 different couplers at home depot to pound the new seal into place. Do you remember size coupler you used?
Sorry I can’t remember the size of the couplers. They were about $.50 each so I just grabbed one of each and then returned the one that I didn’t use in a week or two. I just don’t want to have to go back to the store for a little things like that so I just buy multiple different versions to make sure the project is complete. I hope you have success and if you learn anything new please share with the rest of us because lots of people read the comments for improvements!
It was 1 1/4 pvc coupler
Great video, thanks! You mentioned using 1.25” PVC or couplers. What was the size coupler that ended up fitting? I’m guessing it’s not 1.25” because that would be too small to fit 1.25” pvc right? I’m not sure how those are sized O.D. or I.D.?
Thanks Andrew. I went to Home Depot and grabbed 3 different size PHX couplers. They’re super cheap (.88 cents) and I returned 2 of them. Bc I’m not very good at remembering the different sizes and it’s been a year. There is a marking on the lip of the pvc. If you watch in 4K and screen shot it, you might be able to see the number!
I just picked up all the necessary parts to do this job and showed the TECH at the parts store your video, and the one thing he said was an absolute NO-NO was using silicone glue to attach the shaft seal gasket to the seal plate. He said that gasket needs to have some play to account for vibration etc, and if it’s locked in place with glue, it will end up ruining the seal down the road. He said to use the lubricant that comes in the gasket kit for both the seal plate side and the other one that goes into the impeller. I wanted to give other viewers the heads up.
I'm glad you brought this up, Andrew. I remember toiling over this decision when I was doing this. I just checked and pentair's recommendation is to apply a "small bead of silicone around the flange seal, 1/16" bead, evenly distributed with no gaps" And then pressed into the seal plate. It makes sense what the TECH told you, so I think it is up to us to decide which one we want to do. But the manufacturer does show it. Anyhow, you are probably fine either way. Just don't get ANYTHING on the surface of the seal.
The silicone will allow some play. It's not rock solid.
I’ve had the seized bolt issue and had to saw off the bolt head. Horrible. Absolutely positively USE ANTI-SEIZE when you assemble these units. In fact, if I put a new one in to service, I disassemble it and put anti-seize on all 10 bolts. Here’s another huge tip: remove the long motor through bolts, one at a time, (so your motor end caps don’t get out of alignment) and lube the daylights out of those threads with anti seize! Trying to remove those after years in service without anti seize, they might snap in half.
Very good info here!!!! Thanks for sharif to help the next person!!
Very good suggest suggestion. I am rebuilding my pump and electric motor and 2 of the thru bolts were frozen in place and broke off. Now I need to find the new thru bolts. I always use anti-seize, but never thought about putting it on a new pump. Great suggestion.
@@LS-rl5gp Perry’s Pool Pump Service in Arizona has the through bolts.
Thanks a bunch for the video! My mechanical cable lug screw that holds it in broke off and the threads are stuck in the pump. Where did you drill a new hole to attach the new mechanical cable lug?
I drilled a new hole a few inches away from the old lug and installed a new one there. Close to the old one.
Ended up attaching it to one of the screw holes for the fan cover. You think that's fine?
If it was up to me I’d rather see it on the motor casing. Bc the fan cap is just that a cap. It can come off. And I’m not sure if there will be continuity between the cap and the motor with the paint. It is there for safety so I’d mount it back on the motor if you can.
Pentair specify to use silicone for the seal in the seal plate, as you did.
Thanks for the tip!
Hi there , a leaking pump could cause the pump not to prime or get full of water? Thank you
Yes, depending on how bad the leak is. It would need to be a worst leak than what you see in this video.
Question, the bad ass pool supply pump kit comes with a circular O-ring that goes on the shaft. Did you use silicone on that O ring? If so, did you put it on the face of the rubber O-ring or just in the middle so that it slides on the shaft easily?
I always coat the O-rings in some sort of silicon non-petroleum based lube, they also make dedicated O-ring lube that you can buy on Amazon. amzn.to/3OCtXEH
@@fixitwithjake I definitely did everything right and took my time but now I can’t get this thing to prime if my life depended on it. At least it’s not leaking now and the error code says priming failure rather than priming dry like before. Getting my old pool guy over today to see if he can prime the pool. He says it’s difficult sometimes to get it going again
@MTam21 thanks for sharing this. I apologize if I steered you wrong in anyway. I’d love to hear what the end result is! Thanks!!!
@@fixitwithjake it definitely wasn’t your fault! Your video was awesome in regards to putting the pump together. My Pool Guy ended up coming today and there was a significant Jandy valve leak, it was leaking a ton of air, and that was the contributing problem as to why the pump would not prime. Your video helped me solve the leaking of my pump, so thank you!
I’m attempting to rebuild mine using mostly all new parts. The schematic shows a rubber washer gasket (part 075713) goes somewhere in there too but it’s not clear exactly where. Your video didn’t show this part… do you know where exactly it might go in relation to the other parts?
it goes black plastic impeller (fan blade) then black washer part 075713 then impeller fan screw see here. Parts 27,28,29 for my pump. Make sure you have the same model. www.pentair.com/content/dam/extranet/nam/pentair-pool/residential/parts-sheets/product-catalog-parts/pool-pumps-parts.pdf
This was such a HARD video to make. I don't see the washer in my video. But I remember putting the pump together twice!!! Bc I was distracted with getting the filming correct that I left out the washer and something else when I was done. So I had to do it all over again! It is actually harder then it looks to film and do the work at the same time well.
Thanks for that Jake! Yes I totally understand the difficulties in making the video. I’m a TV cameraman by trade, so I know your pain all to well! I really appreciate you taking time to make this and to respond to comments. You are making my pump rebuild project sooo much easier. I’d be lost without this video!! Thanks again!!
Thanks for that Jake! Yes I totally understand the difficulties in making the video. I’m a TV cameraman by trade, so I know your pain all to well! I really appreciate you taking time to make this and to respond to comments. You are making my pump rebuild project sooo much easier. I’d be lost without this video!! Thanks again!!
Thanks for that Jake! Yes I totally understand the difficulties in making the video. I’m a TV cameraman by trade, so I know your pain all to well! I really appreciate you taking time to make this and to respond to comments. You are making my pump rebuild project sooo much easier. I’d be lost without this video!! Thanks again!!
For some reason my pump won't prime now. Any advice? Thanks
I would re trace your assembly steps again. Sounds like something is missing inside like an o ring or on backyards. There are a lot of parts and I had to assemble mine twice bc I left a small item out as I was distracted while trying to film. It happens but go slow and methodical and you’ll figure it out.
@@fixitwithjake I'm thinking I may have put that spring in backwards. I wish I could work on it today but the weather is bad out right now. I'll let you know what I find to out to help others if they experience the same. Great tutorial by the way.
I can't get my impeller to loosen any ideas ?
Heat and a jarring motion. It needs a quick torque twist to release it after the heat.
I know it's 3 months late, but for anyone else with this problem, you can put a strap wrench on the outside of the impeller while holding the motor shaft stationary.
The motor shaft has a straight line slut but it's too shallow to hold on with a screw driver when turning the impeller. Any other solution or tool to use to hold the shaft?
@g9351 hmm. Maybe take the cap off and use pliers to hold it. Also, are u turning it the correct way? It is threaded opposite direction then normal. So the right to loosen.