How To Fix Air Bubbles In Brake Bleeding, SUPER EASY FIX.
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- čas přidán 17. 03. 2020
- Super Easy stop air bubbles from happening, with this video will teach you how to stop air bubbles from brake bleeding.
Are you frustrated from air bubbles appearing in your process of brake bleeding? Well, you lucky I have just uploaded this video to help people with this annoying problem. This maybe a simple fix but it is a very serious problem, because without fixing the air bubbles out of your brakes. Your brake will feel sponage and too soft.
In this video I am going to show you how to fix this problem of brake bleeding air bubbles. While getting your brakes working normally without any issues, just like how it came out from the factory.
Please watch the video in full to see the final result.
Remember to Subscribe and Like for more videos. If you having difficulities feel free to comment below and I would try my best to help you out. I don't mind helping people out!
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#brakes,#bleed,#AirBubbles
Key note here that you dont need to take out bleed valves to clean & add grease or silicone to them lot of extra work thats not needed at all, the valves should never be opened that much, valve should be slightly opened to where you just start seeing fluid to leak no bubbles should be entering into the system, i been doing brakes for years never had any problems whatsoever, lot of these diy videos out here are making things seem you have to take extra steps that you dont its nothing but a waste of time, key factor again is to not open valve much at all just slowly turn valve to when fluid starts to leak then stop then proceed to pump the pedal few times then tighten go on to the next bleed valve its that simple.
Did anyone notice that he failed to remove the clamp ? "If the clamp is still on... no air bubbles !!!!!
Those bubble dont matter my guy. Those bubbles are being induced as the fluid exits the brake system. Those bubbles are only in your bleeder tube, not in the brake line. Wasting your time.
This is completely unnecessary. These bubbles mean nothing, they’re entering after the seating surface of the bleeder valve so they never get into the system.
Why are you teaching people to introduce foreign substances into their brake system? Why? Total nonsense. You put the zirk fitting back in and didn’t bleed the line after you had it open and then proudly say , no bubbles. Wow
Please do not follow this video on your own brake job. As has been stated the last thing you want is foreign substance in your brake system. This is bad information.
I simply seal it with Vaseline around the bleeder before making the vacuum
I hope there is no more air bubbles, you never took the clamp off. Great way to ruin a flex line clamping it fwiw...
Why go through all that, those bubbles mean nothing. Now change the rubber hose you probably just damaged.
IMHO: Air is only a problem when it's INSIDE the caliper (or slave cylinder). The air bubbles shown at the start of this video are not a problem per se, but you should always be careful when using a vacuum bleeder as he is obviously doing here, and NEVER use a vacuum bleeder on drum brakes. The piston seals on a disc brake caliper can handle a little vacuum, but the cups in a drum brake slave cylinder cannot. They will either leak air into the cylinder or (worse) pull away from the piston and become unseated (cocked at an angle in the slave cylinder). The best way to bleed brakes is with slight pressure (less than 4 PSI) on the master cylinder reservoir. This will generally be enough to push all air thru the system and out each wheel. Yes, you have to make some special tooling to do this, but it works perfectly, every time.
I'm never pinching a brake line closed but thanks for trying
Why dont you remove the clamp at the final? Of course the bubble still stop if the clamp remain on the hose
It's not a bad idea to remove the bleeder screw when doing a brake bleed. If it's crusty or damaged at all, replace it. No need to pinch the hose, just make sure the reservoir if full. The system will continue to gravity bleed for the short time the screw is out as well as flush out the bleeder port. It's a bad day when an old bleeder screw shears off. As well I always pressure or gravity bleed. Siphoning or vacuuming seems counter intuitive to air freeing.
The diagnosis is correct but you could do better by replacing the bleeder screw with a new one. I had the same issue with my front driver's side brake bleeder screw. Constant bubbles through the line. I'd let the master cylinder get too low when doing a brake fluid change but thought 'there's no way there's that much air in the system'. Noticed the bleeder screw was a bit loose so just as an experiment, I tried a little Teflon tape around the threads. Bubbles stopped flowing. Considered just leaving it that way with the tape but thought 'these are the brakes, this is serious'. Bought a new bleeder screw and put 2 wraps of Teflon tape just for some insurance. The brake fluid flowed perfectly clear. Finished checking the other brake caliper and have perfect brakes now.
There isn't much fluid in a bike system. As long as the drain end of your bleed tube is submerged in fluid, you won't draw air into the system. Just open the bleeder and pump the brakes until no bubbles form. No need to loosen and tighten the bleeder. Just make sure the master stays filled. One pump at a time and check the master. Remember if you do it this way there is no need to open and close the bleeder. You can't draw air into the system if the end of the tubing is submerged. This is by far the easiest and most effective one-person method to bleed a system. By the way, there is no need to open the bleeder more than 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn. Unscrewing it more than that is one reason you are getting those tiny bubbles in the first place. The other reason is that you are pumping the brake with the bleeder closed. That agitates the air in the system and creates more bubbles. I have watched a bunch of these videos and almost all of them say to pump the brake with the bleeder closed. This is 100% WRONG!
4:06
As long as the drain end of your bleed tube is submerged in fluid, you won't draw air into the system. Just open the bleeder and pump the brakes until no bubbles form. No need to loosen and tighten the bleeder. Just make sure the master stays filled.
All you did was gravity bleed the caliper while you were wasting your time with the silicone paste.
I have a similar issue when my bleeder valve is completely tightened and there are still air bubbles being pulled into the vinyl tube, but it is not really a problem. First take a look at a bleeder valve when it is removed (either in this video or google it); there are threads, then the hole through the valve, and then the cone that seats into the caliper. The seal between the caliper and the bleeder valve is accomplished by the solid cone of the valve seating in the matching recess of the caliper, not the threads. The reason air bubbles are creeping out is because the vinyl hose connected to the bleeder is creating a vacuum with gravity pulling the fluid down the tube and sucking air through the threads into the bleeder valve hole and then into the vinyl tube. It is not pulling air from the sealed caliper. The bleeder threads may or may not be airtight, these threads are not the seal, the cone is. If the threads are airtight, you will not see the bubbles, but if the threads are not airtight air will be drawn through them and then come out as bubbles into the vinyl line. This video is sealing the threads with silicone, which will block the air from being pulled through the treads and into the tube, but again the threads are not the seal to the caliper the bleeder cone is. Here are a few tests... 1) Move your fluid container above the brake bleeder valve, gravity will no longer be pulling the fluid down and creating a vacuum to pull air through the threads. 2) Similar to the first test, after bleeding your brakes, clear the vinyl line of fluid. Now hook the vinyl tube back up and bleed a little fluid into the hose with the hose pointing up with none of the fluid being drawn downward, then close the bleeder valve. If bubbles are not coming out of the valve you are good (no vacuum is pulling the air through the threads). 3) After bleeding the brakes, and torquing the bleeder valve closed, pump the brakes and see if any fluid is escaping from the bleeder valve, either through the threads or out of where the vinyl tube connects, if no fluid is coming out your bleeder valve is seated and sealed. Note: I am not a professional mechanic, so if you think I am incorrect, please tell me why.
Don’t squeeze that brake tube , worst thing you can do 🤦♂️