your shock position looks good, but you need different springs for weight shift. Long and soft is the idea. I like Yokomo LTS front springs, WrapUp "red" super soft 45mm, or the topline drift roll springs. You're also going to want to get that battery up as high as possible, touching the roof of the body shell is usually best.
Reminds me of a stadium/trophy truck suspension. A ton of travel, with an aggressive body roll/weight transfer, and super silky suppel suspension. Interested in seeing how that translates for drifting. I know it works in the dirt. Cool project . 👍
One idea would be to mount the esc like the D-Like hang upper deck, and mount the ESC upside down on the bottom side of the battery tray. That gets a lot more weight up top! I did it on my Rer and it changed a lot.
That is definitely a good idea and something I might have to try! After running the center mounted esc and then went back to rear I immediately went back to center mount.
@@shredcraftrcYeah man, the center esc is a lot better for weight shift. I was designing LTS conversion stuff for YD2 and MSTs for a bit. They’ve been pretty popular on Cults3D, and on my Yd2 I had my esc on top of my rear shock tower with a YD2Z trans to get my motor as high as possible. And then a 3D printed battery tray I made and my front arm and knuckle setup I made too. It was so much fun, and drove really well. If you want crazy roll, there’s a secret to it that works like a charm haha. 🤫
@@EternityEdits That’s awesome man, I appreciate the knowledge, I already mounted the esc up under the battery and have a new design for the battery try that will accept the upside down esc!
You should reduce the spacer on the knuckle “height” to a position where it’s parallel with the tie-rod, that’s probably where a lot of the bumpsteer is coming from. Then just add a slip on spacer on the knuckle / hex (or higher offset wheel like 7mm instead of 6) to space the wheel out a couple mm's so it doesn’t hit. If you have a spacer on the tie-rod knuckle side it’s also adding to the severity of it, but I can’t tell from the video. GLHF!
I have another video coming out soon where I show the improvements, as I said in the video this is an idea and it’s being set up to “roll” hence the higher front roll center. This chassis has a low steering rack and the tie rods are mounted under the knuckle. The lower arm and tie rod are parallel. These wheels are 6mm offset and I used a o ring on the hex to reduce the rubbing, higher offset wheel won’t fit the body. So working within parameters for the build, you’re not wrong but this car has double the amount of travel now then when it was stock so it will inevitably have bump steer.
Rally car levels of droop is pretty cool, and I like the overall innovation of reusing stuff in different locations/orientations. Also, at 2900lbs scale weight, that's a pretty neatly accurate car, there! Not so much the w/d (but we've already talked about that), but it seems the modern trend has been forced towards pseudo-tires and no choice but to make the most of them.
Everyone seems to like the RC drift tires. If this were scale realistic as far as power and weight it would be way different, these RC drift cars can spin up to 50,000 rpm and the grip of rubber tires would blow up transmissions before the car would even move. Volume and mass do not scale proportionally to size.
Everyone seems to like the RC drift tires. If this were scale realistic as far as power and weight it would be way different, these RC drift cars can spin up to 50,000 rpm and the grip of rubber tires would blow up transmissions before the car would even move. Volume and mass do not scale proportionally to size.
@@shredcraftrc I know how volume and mass scale. It's the square/cube law. At 1/10 scale, the accurate weight is 1/1000th full scale. Your car at 1315 grams would be 1315kg full scale, which is 2900 pounds, hence my statement. Yeah grip is disproportional because the PSI of chassis pressure on the tire contact patch is disproportional (saw some guys on a forum do some math, and the contact patch pressure was 1/10 what full scale was despite them having scale-accurate chassis weights). This is why soft rubber tires (IE for touring cars) will never work for RC drifting with any controllability, especially with the heavy rear bias and on any kind of coarse surface. I'm only proposing that we stop trying to get non-grippy hard plastic wheels to grip by using heavy rear weight distribution as a crutch, and instead go back to slightly-grippy hard-rubber tires of yester-year because I think THOSE cars (with normal w/d) drove in a much more scale looking manner, and were actually controllable and could come to a fair stop when off power so you wouldn't just go careening into a wall (at a gentle 5mph, to be fair) like these new things do. People 6-10 years ago could tandem with no problem in the 10-15mph range using medium-low grip hard-rubber tires with front-biased weight and they had plenty of control. This 5mph stuff with no control/twitchy front ends and easy slide-aways looks meh compared to that. IDK man.
I hand to narrow up the front with smaller hexes and low offset wheels and the body was still to narrow, I only ran it a few times and now it sits on a tt02 rally car on the shelf.
Both, it’s definitely not worth it because then you’re stuck running awkward 190mm bodies until you either run turnbuckles on the arms or replace the arms. A narrow car drives “nervously”
your shock position looks good, but you need different springs for weight shift. Long and soft is the idea. I like Yokomo LTS front springs, WrapUp "red" super soft 45mm, or the topline drift roll springs. You're also going to want to get that battery up as high as possible, touching the roof of the body shell is usually best.
I may have to try some longer springs but these shocks are built longer so the chassis has a lot more travel than stock already.
I love it
Thanks!
Reminds me of a stadium/trophy truck suspension. A ton of travel, with an aggressive body roll/weight transfer, and super silky suppel suspension. Interested in seeing how that translates for drifting. I know it works in the dirt. Cool project . 👍
Thank you, stoked to dial it in some more and get some wild footage of it rocking and rolling around! 🤙
One idea would be to mount the esc like the D-Like hang upper deck, and mount the ESC upside down on the bottom side of the battery tray. That gets a lot more weight up top! I did it on my Rer and it changed a lot.
That is definitely a good idea and something I might have to try! After running the center mounted esc and then went back to rear I immediately went back to center mount.
@@shredcraftrcYeah man, the center esc is a lot better for weight shift. I was designing LTS conversion stuff for YD2 and MSTs for a bit. They’ve been pretty popular on Cults3D, and on my Yd2 I had my esc on top of my rear shock tower with a YD2Z trans to get my motor as high as possible. And then a 3D printed battery tray I made and my front arm and knuckle setup I made too. It was so much fun, and drove really well. If you want crazy roll, there’s a secret to it that works like a charm haha. 🤫
@@EternityEdits That’s awesome man, I appreciate the knowledge, I already mounted the esc up under the battery and have a new design for the battery try that will accept the upside down esc!
so cool...everytime i watch yer videos it makes me rethink my suspension setup. thanks for the brain juice
Glad to help! I’m also constantly changing things but it’s fun!
You should reduce the spacer on the knuckle “height” to a position where it’s parallel with the tie-rod, that’s probably where a lot of the bumpsteer is coming from. Then just add a slip on spacer on the knuckle / hex (or higher offset wheel like 7mm instead of 6) to space the wheel out a couple mm's so it doesn’t hit.
If you have a spacer on the tie-rod knuckle side it’s also adding to the severity of it, but I can’t tell from the video. GLHF!
I have another video coming out soon where I show the improvements, as I said in the video this is an idea and it’s being set up to “roll” hence the higher front roll center. This chassis has a low steering rack and the tie rods are mounted under the knuckle. The lower arm and tie rod are parallel. These wheels are 6mm offset and I used a o ring on the hex to reduce the rubbing, higher offset wheel won’t fit the body. So working within parameters for the build, you’re not wrong but this car has double the amount of travel now then when it was stock so it will inevitably have bump steer.
Rally car levels of droop is pretty cool, and I like the overall innovation of reusing stuff in different locations/orientations. Also, at 2900lbs scale weight, that's a pretty neatly accurate car, there! Not so much the w/d (but we've already talked about that), but it seems the modern trend has been forced towards pseudo-tires and no choice but to make the most of them.
Everyone seems to like the RC drift tires. If this were scale realistic as far as power and weight it would be way different, these RC drift cars can spin up to 50,000 rpm and the grip of rubber tires would blow up transmissions before the car would even move. Volume and mass do not scale proportionally to size.
Everyone seems to like the RC drift tires. If this were scale realistic as far as power and weight it would be way different, these RC drift cars can spin up to 50,000 rpm and the grip of rubber tires would blow up transmissions before the car would even move. Volume and mass do not scale proportionally to size.
@@shredcraftrc I know how volume and mass scale. It's the square/cube law. At 1/10 scale, the accurate weight is 1/1000th full scale. Your car at 1315 grams would be 1315kg full scale, which is 2900 pounds, hence my statement.
Yeah grip is disproportional because the PSI of chassis pressure on the tire contact patch is disproportional (saw some guys on a forum do some math, and the contact patch pressure was 1/10 what full scale was despite them having scale-accurate chassis weights). This is why soft rubber tires (IE for touring cars) will never work for RC drifting with any controllability, especially with the heavy rear bias and on any kind of coarse surface.
I'm only proposing that we stop trying to get non-grippy hard plastic wheels to grip by using heavy rear weight distribution as a crutch, and instead go back to slightly-grippy hard-rubber tires of yester-year because I think THOSE cars (with normal w/d) drove in a much more scale looking manner, and were actually controllable and could come to a fair stop when off power so you wouldn't just go careening into a wall (at a gentle 5mph, to be fair) like these new things do.
People 6-10 years ago could tandem with no problem in the 10-15mph range using medium-low grip hard-rubber tires with front-biased weight and they had plenty of control. This 5mph stuff with no control/twitchy front ends and easy slide-aways looks meh compared to that. IDK man.
@@Drunken_Hamster your proposal is dumb and wasting my time. Not to offend you but I’m a no bullsh*t person.
Love this kind of thinking 🤔 JEHC off road ifs design ep3 or 4 goes deep into caster camber mitigation at droop and lock for bumpsteer. Great job
Thank you! Definitely can geek out on this stuff and I love changing things to search for improvement, it’s all in good fun!
Agrred, this is why I enjoy your stuff my man. @shredcraftrc
@@DoubleClutchProductions I appreciate it!
How well does the tamiya wrc body clear wheels. Says its 190mm wide but certainly looks wider
I hand to narrow up the front with smaller hexes and low offset wheels and the body was still to narrow, I only ran it a few times and now it sits on a tt02 rally car on the shelf.
How does this setup compare to lp-86 or yokomo sd1.0 ?
Well this is pretty custom and I don’t have experience with the others so I can’t really speak to it.
Hi , what body is that and what off set wheels are you using? It seems like the 190mm tamiya body, how did you get it to fit so nicely
Yea Tamiya Yaris. Lots of fine tuning, low offset wheels, smaller wheel hex, cut arms 3mm.
@@shredcraftrc the lower or upper arms?
Both, it’s definitely not worth it because then you’re stuck running awkward 190mm bodies until you either run turnbuckles on the arms or replace the arms. A narrow car drives “nervously”
P r o m o s m
🤙