if you're in a region where roads are heavily salted, i'd recommend anti-seize on both ends of the adapter in case you have the vehicle long term, forgot you added a defouler, and the sensor finally does needs replacing. the adapter works, but years later the rust build up is a pain.
This guy here is doing it because he's completely removed all the guts from his catalytic converter, and that makes your check engine light come on because the O₂ sensors measure that there's no change in the exhaust gas's makeup before and after the cat (because it's no longer there!). But most people do this because they get a check engine code P0420 (or P0430) meaning 'cat inefficiency is beyond threshold' meaning their catalytic converter has worn out. These codes prevent the car from passing inspection. *However,* in some states like California and New York and Maine (which have both adopted California emissions laws) you now have to buy a 'CARB compliant' catalytic converter. These converters cost over $1000 a piece. _And they are a complete scam!_ CARB stands for California Air Resources Board. It is a collusion between the govt and automakers to gouge consumers and essentially make them pay a tax on air pollution (California expects all cars to be electric in ten years). These new CARB converters are deliberately priced high so that people will be forced to just junk their older cars rather than have to pay so much to get them fixed. Like I said, *_a complete and utter scam!_* This is why these oxygen sensor covers are made, to help the consumer foil this scheme and not be forced to buy a newer car they can't afford..
I don't know what you mean by "ECU work" but, The answer you are seeking is, by moving the O2 sensor out of the exhaust stream you lessen the exhaust gases it can measure. Thus making the ECU get a lower reading from the rear O2 sensor (after the cat) like it would if he didn't hollow out the catalytic converter. Right now, the ECU is seeing the same amount of exhaust gases before AND after the catalytic converter. It thinks the catalytic converter isn't working So it sets the check engine light and the p-420 p430 codes. I don't know what state he is in, but in my state of New York if you have any kind of check engine light on you fail state emissions and can't get your car inspected. I'm imagining he lives somewhere similar
I wouldn’t waste my time I’ve done the same thing it got me through omissions 10 to 12,000 miles the same code come back so you will have to fix what is causing the code to come up either replace the cat clean it or diagnose it find out why that light is coming on for that code because this will not fix it at all it will get you through emissions and they will shut the light down for a while 10 to 12,000 miles it will be back the same code
I live in southern Minnesota, and when I visit a large city such as Chicago, my eyes burn for hours due to not being used to the air pollution. Fix your cat problem and stop being the problem.
That trick does not work. I’ve tried it after 10 to 12,000 miles exact code comes back you’re going to have to deal with the issue. Figure out why it’s coming on and what is causing it. You have to diagnose it. Or replace it and replace an O2 sensor will not fix is code. It is not the O2 sensor, I know because I’ve done this and I went through the whole computer system. Found a glitch in my thermostat slight misfire got the motor running perfect still had the same code no exhaust leaks it come down to the cat so I have to pull the cat and do a couple things for it. No, I will not got it, I will not drill it but I have a solution that will fix the problem so I do not have to replace it. I know it works. I don’t give those tricks out.
This works (temporarily) to pass the emissions with a failed catalytic , while people who remove the cat completely use this as a permanent fix for the code. If your cat is clogged, it can cause damage to your engine, your engines oil gaskets & seals.
Thankyou! Other sites talk about what YOU have done BUT YOU show how it is done!! THANK YOU!!
I did this to my 98 Tahoe, it works...
if you're in a region where roads are heavily salted, i'd recommend anti-seize on both ends of the adapter in case you have the vehicle long term, forgot you added a defouler, and the sensor finally does needs replacing. the adapter works, but years later the rust build up is a pain.
This guy here is doing it because he's completely removed all the guts from his catalytic converter, and that makes your check engine light come on because the O₂ sensors measure that there's no change in the exhaust gas's makeup before and after the cat (because it's no longer there!).
But most people do this because they get a check engine code P0420 (or P0430) meaning 'cat inefficiency is beyond threshold' meaning their catalytic converter has worn out. These codes prevent the car from passing inspection.
*However,* in some states like California and New York and Maine (which have both adopted California emissions laws) you now have to buy a 'CARB compliant' catalytic converter. These converters cost over $1000 a piece. _And they are a complete scam!_
CARB stands for California Air Resources Board. It is a collusion between the govt and automakers to gouge consumers and essentially make them pay a tax on air pollution (California expects all cars to be electric in ten years).
These new CARB converters are deliberately priced high so that people will be forced to just junk their older cars rather than have to pay so much to get them fixed. Like I said, *_a complete and utter scam!_*
This is why these oxygen sensor covers are made, to help the consumer foil this scheme and not be forced to buy a newer car they can't afford..
So what is the science that makes adding the two adaptors to the sensor fix the signal error to the ECU work?
I don't know what you mean by "ECU work" but, The answer you are seeking is, by moving the O2 sensor out of the exhaust stream you lessen the exhaust gases it can measure. Thus making the ECU get a lower reading from the rear O2 sensor (after the cat) like it would if he didn't hollow out the catalytic converter. Right now, the ECU is seeing the same amount of exhaust gases before AND after the catalytic converter. It thinks the catalytic converter isn't working So it sets the check engine light and the p-420 p430 codes. I don't know what state he is in, but in my state of New York if you have any kind of check engine light on you fail state emissions and can't get your car inspected. I'm imagining he lives somewhere similar
You getting a tune
What if you only use a manifold mounted o2 sensor but you wanna delete the cat... how do you bypass CEL then?
Did it work
Ecu needs updating
Dealership only ones to do it
What's the part number?
Why not just use one long non fouler
I wouldn’t waste my time I’ve done the same thing it got me through omissions 10 to 12,000 miles the same code come back so you will have to fix what is causing the code to come up either replace the cat clean it or diagnose it find out why that light is coming on for that code because this will not fix it at all it will get you through emissions and they will shut the light down for a while 10 to 12,000 miles it will be back the same code
I had the same issue on my 07 tahoe the codes came right back on after installing spacers.
I tried it, it didn't work.
Did you do a cat delete or do you have a bad/worn cat. I’m going to do a cat delete on my vehicle but don’t want a code.
@crf150r im abt to try it i can update some time this week its been raining like hell though, just not dure if i need 18mm non foulers or 22mm
I did cat delete
So the code did not went away? Did you tried mini cat spacer?
I live in southern Minnesota, and when I visit a large city such as Chicago, my eyes burn for hours due to not being used to the air pollution. Fix your cat problem and stop being the problem.
Your issue is going to Chicago
@@SNWxGaming😂
That trick does not work. I’ve tried it after 10 to 12,000 miles exact code comes back you’re going to have to deal with the issue. Figure out why it’s coming on and what is causing it. You have to diagnose it. Or replace it and replace an O2 sensor will not fix is code. It is not the O2 sensor, I know because I’ve done this and I went through the whole computer system. Found a glitch in my thermostat slight misfire got the motor running perfect still had the same code no exhaust leaks it come down to the cat so I have to pull the cat and do a couple things for it. No, I will not got it, I will not drill it but I have a solution that will fix the problem so I do not have to replace it. I know it works. I don’t give those tricks out.
Solution? Having same problem and new CAT is expensive.
@@BigBoss0_solution is new cats back on 😂 I have tried the bypass sensors before to and only lasted a few months.
This works (temporarily) to pass the emissions with a failed catalytic , while people who remove the cat completely use this as a permanent fix for the code. If your cat is clogged, it can cause damage to your engine, your engines oil gaskets & seals.
I have an offical complaint (legal). You will answer for your crimes, colonizing war criminal.
When?