I'm going to use some flexible dryer duct and put it around an extended exhaust (I already have both) and run a small DC fan at the bottom of the heater where the exhaust starts and split it off before it goes outside. I should be able to nearly double my heat output from 1 heater depending on the CFM of the fan.
Excellent. I bought a small cast iron radiator off Facebook for $20 I plan on sending my exhaust through before it leaves the garage to increase efficiency.
Vehicle heating.. have a dedicated or isolated 12v battery just for this purpose. On high lspeed the heater will kill a lesser condition battery overnight and will strand you.
It doesn't look the heat exchanger section increases in outer diameter, which leads me to believe that the internal section which exhaust gases run through is reduced to a smaller diameter and thus create a restriction in the outflow. Due to their design, if the outflow of exhaust gases is restricted, the inflow is also restricted and the unit cannot pull as much clean air as it needs to for efficient combustion. In other words, your unit will run rich. This is likely why you are encountering soot in the exhaust.
@@JohannesBrotBaum Absolutely. Whether it will be enough I'm not sure, but I would imagine so. Using two would involve a junction, either a T or Y junction, which would create a little more restriction. Using the blower fan to cool the radiator also creates restriction for the blower fan, which indirectly reduces the amount of air being fed to the burn chamber, since the blower and the intake are driven by the same motor.
@@bluesguitarg a bigger air intake could reduce the restriction a little if you mount an adapter from 60mm to 90 or 100mm and a bigger radiator should help move more air I think
You might try using larger piping for the intake and exhaust. Les flow resistance. Every 90 bend adds resistance. Might need to raise it up a few inches for clearance. I had thought of doing a heat ex changer for the combustion air intake.
Condensate is highly acidic with dilute sulphuric acid. This reacts with copper to form copper sulphate and will eventually eat the heat exchanger. Otherwise great stuff geek.
Looks like a very cool idea. I might be interested in buying one from you, but you've GOT to use a better quality hose! It's already kinked. If you're using the fuel line that came with the heater, it's garbage. Go buy some decent hose to work with, especially since you're building something with fluids that get hot, driving pressure up. How do you keep the line trapped between the exhaust and the bottom of the unit from melting? Shouldn't that go around the exhaust pipe, with a heat shroud to protect it?
Don't alpine mode and low pump rate reduce the maximum heat output of the heater? The exhaust bends totaling up to 270° which is the maximum recommended. Reduce it if you can. It has been calculated the exhaust wastes from 0.1 - 0.7kW of power depending on the heat setting. One way to capture that heat very simply is to dip the exhaust in a container of water in a thermodynamically efficient curved L shape exiting at the near bottom of the container. All heat is exchanged in the first meter or less of the exhaust pipe. I use an online tool omni water calculator to calculate the suitable container size.
Just my idea............If u take the hot radiator off the heaters air intake and u place that radiator it in in the same room as the the normal hot air tube and let a fan run behind it would that not be more efficient? It wont make a diffence and for sure the heater aint portable as it is now but would that not be the maximum u could get out of heater. (Or run the hot exhaust gasses trough a aluminium/copper intercooler with a fan behind it as thats my best idea of getting the max energy from it but this wont make it portable as they are)
I have a coil of standard ribbed exhaust running around the bottom with a 12 volt pc fan blowing across it. I lose very little heat once the always downward exhaust leaves the unit. Never once have i had a carbon problem.. probably cuz i run up to 10 percent petrol.
Great video.I had similar idea. How did you attach bigger tube to the smaller tube on the heat exchanger? I am going to use 12v fan on the radiator rather than restricting heater fan air flow. What kind of pump did you use.?Thanks
The heat exchanger is made with 3/4" Copper tube, and 1" Copper tube, joined with two 1" to 3/4" Copper reducers. Product links (such as for the pump) are in the description.
Just so you know... there are also trace amounts of sulphuric acid produced when the fossil fuels burn. When you are condensing the vapor, remember that you are also condensing the acid too, and if you aren't careful and don't have a CO monitor/alarm (carbon monoxide for all the internet trools out there), you will eventually have a problem with pitting in your exhaust tubing, and little holes will start to form.... just be careful and know what you are doing... that is why they use PVC pipe in high efficiency furnace exhaust ... the sheet metal would quickly develop holes
I'm interested see how this performs over time, to my understanding, normally stainless steel would be used in these types of heat exchangers, but of course, copper pipe and fittings are more readily available.
Nice try, its valued. However, good bit of false claims without any proof. Your 16% is rather taken from high error values. From efficiency stand point, modifications seems to be rather gimmicky then real. Eg.: You condensate exhaust and then you add heat to cooling air for the body( where the temp difference mattes most)...Your muffler maybe only reduce sound of vibrating pipe (lack of gas expansion, cooling or smoothing out pressure waves), not the end noise of the exhaust. Your condenser doing the noise dampening here...Your exhaust modification affecting burn characteristics of the unit. You need to compensate for that with adjusting fuel/oxygen ratio.....lots of problems here from engineering stand point, from data collection and "guess" analysis. You can claim that 2 measurements were different before and after modification. However, I can claim that you just change efficiency of combusting the fuel. Therefore better tune up of the original device would do the trick. From my opinion, you may have accidentally improved burn cycle and think that those gimmicks do the work... I don't mean to take off your enthusiasm, but you are putting your face to your work. So do it properly. Anyway, keep good work.
I'm at 4 mins of your video and I already see 2 huge fails. 1 too many bends and you're still at the heater. 2 the condensation of t he exhaust fumes will condense and drip down into the bottom section of that U bend between heater and exchanger which will block your exhaust flow, which will give you lower air to fuel ratio, which will give you CO Gass emissions. People like you should take more respinsability when publishing such dangerous ideas. How many people will copy your amazing(ly bad) idea and harm themselves? Please dude!
I'm going to use some flexible dryer duct and put it around an extended exhaust (I already have both) and run a small DC fan at the bottom of the heater where the exhaust starts and split it off before it goes outside. I should be able to nearly double my heat output from 1 heater depending on the CFM of the fan.
Excellent. I bought a small cast iron radiator off Facebook for $20 I plan on sending my exhaust through before it leaves the garage to increase efficiency.
Vehicle heating.. have a dedicated or isolated 12v battery just for this purpose. On high lspeed the heater will kill a lesser condition battery overnight and will strand you.
Steam radiator is great, but this being portable is awesome. Nice work.
It doesn't look the heat exchanger section increases in outer diameter, which leads me to believe that the internal section which exhaust gases run through is reduced to a smaller diameter and thus create a restriction in the outflow. Due to their design, if the outflow of exhaust gases is restricted, the inflow is also restricted and the unit cannot pull as much clean air as it needs to for efficient combustion. In other words, your unit will run rich. This is likely why you are encountering soot in the exhaust.
I thought the same :D but what if you connect 2 in parallel that could work
@@JohannesBrotBaum Absolutely. Whether it will be enough I'm not sure, but I would imagine so. Using two would involve a junction, either a T or Y junction, which would create a little more restriction.
Using the blower fan to cool the radiator also creates restriction for the blower fan, which indirectly reduces the amount of air being fed to the burn chamber, since the blower and the intake are driven by the same motor.
@@bluesguitarg a bigger air intake could reduce the restriction a little if you mount an adapter from 60mm to 90 or 100mm and a bigger radiator should help move more air I think
You might try using larger piping for the intake and exhaust. Les flow resistance. Every 90 bend adds resistance. Might need to raise it up a few inches for clearance. I had thought of doing a heat ex changer for the combustion air intake.
Condensate is highly acidic with dilute sulphuric acid. This reacts with copper to form copper sulphate and will eventually eat the heat exchanger. Otherwise great stuff geek.
Excellent project buddy
Looks like a very cool idea. I might be interested in buying one from you, but you've GOT to use a better quality hose! It's already kinked. If you're using the fuel line that came with the heater, it's garbage. Go buy some decent hose to work with, especially since you're building something with fluids that get hot, driving pressure up. How do you keep the line trapped between the exhaust and the bottom of the unit from melting? Shouldn't that go around the exhaust pipe, with a heat shroud to protect it?
Did you make your heat exchanger from scratch, or buy it? I don't see it in your parts list. If you made it, can you do a video on its design?
Biggest advantage of propane, SHELF LIFE FOREVER!
Excellent video, thanks for the information!
Don't alpine mode and low pump rate reduce the maximum heat output of the heater? The exhaust bends totaling up to 270° which is the maximum recommended. Reduce it if you can. It has been calculated the exhaust wastes from 0.1 - 0.7kW of power depending on the heat setting. One way to capture that heat very simply is to dip the exhaust in a container of water in a thermodynamically efficient curved L shape exiting at the near bottom of the container. All heat is exchanged in the first meter or less of the exhaust pipe. I use an online tool omni water calculator to calculate the suitable container size.
Just my idea............If u take the hot radiator off the heaters air intake and u place that radiator it in in the same room as the the normal hot air tube and let a fan run behind it would that not be more efficient?
It wont make a diffence and for sure the heater aint portable as it is now but would that not be the maximum u could get out of heater.
(Or run the hot exhaust gasses trough a aluminium/copper intercooler with a fan behind it as thats my best idea of getting the max energy from it but this wont make it portable as they are)
Have your solder joints on the copper pipe failed yet?
I have a coil of standard ribbed exhaust running around the bottom with a 12 volt pc fan blowing across it. I lose very little heat once the always downward exhaust leaves the unit. Never once have i had a carbon problem.. probably cuz i run up to 10 percent petrol.
Great work! Is nobody else doing these efficiency mods?
Great video.I had similar idea. How did you attach bigger tube to the smaller tube on the heat exchanger? I am going to use 12v fan on the radiator rather than restricting heater fan air flow. What kind of pump did you use.?Thanks
The heat exchanger is made with 3/4" Copper tube, and 1" Copper tube, joined with two 1" to 3/4" Copper reducers.
Product links (such as for the pump) are in the description.
You needed to test this at HIGH speed.... Much hotter output
Just so you know... there are also trace amounts of sulphuric acid produced when the fossil fuels burn. When you are condensing the vapor, remember that you are also condensing the acid too, and if you aren't careful and don't have a CO monitor/alarm (carbon monoxide for all the internet trools out there), you will eventually have a problem with pitting in your exhaust tubing, and little holes will start to form.... just be careful and know what you are doing... that is why they use PVC pipe in high efficiency furnace exhaust ... the sheet metal would quickly develop holes
I'm interested see how this performs over time, to my understanding, normally stainless steel would be used in these types of heat exchangers, but of course, copper pipe and fittings are more readily available.
Why don't they make 95%+ efficient diesel heaters commercially?
Nice try, its valued. However, good bit of false claims without any proof. Your 16% is rather taken from high error values. From efficiency stand point, modifications seems to be rather gimmicky then real. Eg.: You condensate exhaust and then you add heat to cooling air for the body( where the temp difference mattes most)...Your muffler maybe only reduce sound of vibrating pipe (lack of gas expansion, cooling or smoothing out pressure waves), not the end noise of the exhaust. Your condenser doing the noise dampening here...Your exhaust modification affecting burn characteristics of the unit. You need to compensate for that with adjusting fuel/oxygen ratio.....lots of problems here from engineering stand point, from data collection and "guess" analysis. You can claim that 2 measurements were different before and after modification. However, I can claim that you just change efficiency of combusting the fuel. Therefore better tune up of the original device would do the trick. From my opinion, you may have accidentally improved burn cycle and think that those gimmicks do the work... I don't mean to take off your enthusiasm, but you are putting your face to your work. So do it properly. Anyway, keep good work.
I'm at 4 mins of your video and I already see 2 huge fails.
1 too many bends and you're still at the heater.
2 the condensation of t he exhaust fumes will condense and drip down into the bottom section of that U bend between heater and exchanger which will block your exhaust flow, which will give you lower air to fuel ratio, which will give you CO Gass emissions.
People like you should take more respinsability when publishing such dangerous ideas. How many people will copy your amazing(ly bad) idea and harm themselves?
Please dude!
u bend is horizontal