Great work as usual, 442 on the piston is the model number of the 250N and as Alan said if there where any oversize it would be marked on the top of the piston (E.G .25 or .50) and if they are not marked then it means the pistons are standard size, remember to use oil when you hone and spray them with WD40 after the hone to stop flash rusting, keep up the good work
doh.....cutting threads in the stud actually weakens it so IT WILL SHEAR where the thread starts as you have found out, do not cut any more threads. get a mapgaz torch to heat the base of the stud, it burns 30% hotter than butane and get it as near red hot as possible and use a stud extractor ......Sealey Stud Extractor Remover & Installer 8 - 19mm 1/2 " Inch Drive VS7232 as seen in feebay for about a tenner, you might have to try several heating-cooling cycles to break the hold, you could try mole grips again first....best advice is by posting a question in the factorium
Well made video and I admire your determination in trying to get that engine bolt out … apart from oxidation has taken place holding that bolt in it makes you wonder if the previous owner had used the strong lock tight in that bolt thread .. I know the feeling when that bolt your trying to get out suddenly goes loose and what should have been a 5 minute job turns into a whole day .. I’m not sure where you are based but I’m in Essex and your welcome to borrow my valve compressor tool .. as previously mentioned always put rag round the area your working on as if them collets fall in the engine you’ve got a engine strip .. I’m working on a Suzuki Gs 250T 1981 as expected as I work my way through the bike I’m finding bodging that’s been done over it’s 40 years life .. I haven’t even got my bike started yet as the wiring loom is butchered so I need to sort that even before she gets a full start after 7 years of sitting
Thanks for that offer but I'm in Wiltshire. I've ordered a spring compressor yesterday, so that should be here this week. Good luck with you bike, I pray it fights you less than mine has.
Can't believe how calm you were when you snapped that bolt. Me: aaagggghhhh fffffaarrkkingg ffffaaarrkkkinggg Cannnnnt! Shit farkkinng cannnt Japanese ffaarrking cant!!!!!!!! Or words to that effect.
Hi Tom.. I think you where reading the thoughts that were going though my mind at the time. I guess by that time I had already dealt with multiple "Challenges". Hope you enjoy the rest of the series. Ryan
@@RyansGarageUK yeah Ryan hi. I'm loving these vids for your honesty & sheer pluck in taking on this job on limited resources. I had Soupdragons in the 80s because their niche was being a proper full-size "real motorbike" for bikers who couldn't afford a cx. I'm baffled how they're cult bikes now. RS 250s and Benlies, sure, but 250Ns are simply no fun to ride. Thanks for your your work because producing this content is a LOT of work. 😀😀😀😀
Hi Ryan did you manage to get that head bolt out because that looks really stuck in there .. even welding a nut on the top of bolt thread is going to to do exactly the same and snap the bolt .. something is definitely not right there as you’ve heated / lubricated the bolt and it’s just not moving I’m wondering if some one previously had stripped the thread in the crank case and instead of repairing by helicoil they have wound it in and stuck it with high strength lock tight the red one …you may end up taking engine out having the bolt cut level with the crank case and then the old bolt drilled out and have a helicoil fitted please keep us informed of how it goes .. your videos are really good credit to you
Hi Richard, I tried again this weekend and it's still not out yet. I've got one more suggestion to try before I hand it over to someone with more tools and experience or my grinder and drills are being deployed.. One way or another its coming out. :)
Usually marked on the top of the piston, no marking will mean they are original. Might want to get original rings and try the same test, but you would be better to measure the bores and checked from there.
Ohh, that engine was stubborn 😛 I am pretty sure you need more heat to get the bolt out. Propane gas just don't get it hot enough. I use my MIG welder when I have a problem like this, i put on a nut that goes over the bolt and weld on top of it. It needs to be glowing red from the heat.
@@RyansGarageUK be very careful with that, these extractors are very hard/brittle, and can snap off - then it's very difficult to get them out, almost impossible to drill through them (i have been there 😬). I think the safest solution is to get hold of something that can produce more intense heat. Looking forward to your next video, I am curious to see how it goes 😊
A few hefty blows with a hammer on the end of the stud as if you were trying to hammer it into the engine should release it, if you can apply twisting force at the same time even better. If you can imagine the threads have pulled up tight against upper surfaces of the “spiral” so the hammer blows release that binding, thats how an impact driver works.
engrossing video Ryan, really good - I admire your tenacity with the bolt. I actually crossed my fingers for you while you were doing it, but alas it didnt help. I am learning such a lot from your efforts so I can't offer too much advice. One thing I would be tempted to do, especially as there was that initial side to side movement in the pistons is to get a rebore. You've got the top end in bits so what do you think?
Thanks Tim. I honestly have no idea if a rebore is needed or not but I'm trying to rebuild it keeping costs to necessary only. So think I'm going to try replacing piston rings and honing the cylinders first.
Ave watched to 18 mins, gudgeon pin clip removal, stuff a clean rag round the base of the piston as to ensure nothing falls into the bottom end.
You have some serious patience 👍👍 Keep up the good work
I felt your pain watching you with that bolt Ryan.
Love the way you keep going at it .it's the only way you'll win I've been in your situation so many times and much worse.
Thanks Andy. One way or another...its coming out!!
Nice work bike bore
Great work as usual, 442 on the piston is the model number of the 250N and as Alan said if there where any oversize it would be marked on the top of the piston (E.G .25 or .50) and if they are not marked then it means the pistons are standard size, remember to use oil when you hone and spray them with WD40 after the hone to stop flash rusting, keep up the good work
Cheers Pete, that confirms what I thought. So I'll get ordering up the rings ASAP. 👍🏻
doh.....cutting threads in the stud actually weakens it so IT WILL SHEAR where the thread starts as you have found out, do not cut any more threads. get a mapgaz torch to heat the base of the stud, it burns 30% hotter than butane and get it as near red hot as possible and use a stud extractor ......Sealey Stud Extractor Remover & Installer 8 - 19mm 1/2 " Inch Drive VS7232 as seen in feebay for about a tenner, you might have to try several heating-cooling cycles to break the hold, you could try mole grips again first....best advice is by posting a question in the factorium
Thank you for the advice, I've still got a couple of inches remaining, so will try this method. Ryan
oh...and use a good quality penetrating fluid as it cools
Definitely buy your self a valve spring compressor as you will need it to put the collets back on top of the valve spring
I've just this morning got myself one. 👍🏻
@@RyansGarageUK will save your knuckles and lots of swearing Haha
Well made video and I admire your determination in trying to get that engine bolt out … apart from oxidation has taken place holding that bolt in it makes you wonder if the previous owner had used the strong lock tight in that bolt thread .. I know the feeling when that bolt your trying to get out suddenly goes loose and what should have been a 5 minute job turns into a whole day .. I’m not sure where you are based but I’m in Essex and your welcome to borrow my valve compressor tool .. as previously mentioned always put rag round the area your working on as if them collets fall in the engine you’ve got a engine strip .. I’m working on a Suzuki Gs 250T 1981 as expected as I work my way through the bike I’m finding bodging that’s been done over it’s 40 years life .. I haven’t even got my bike started yet as the wiring loom is butchered so I need to sort that even before she gets a full start after 7 years of sitting
Thanks for that offer but I'm in Wiltshire. I've ordered a spring compressor yesterday, so that should be here this week. Good luck with you bike, I pray it fights you less than mine has.
@@RyansGarageUK you know it’s going to lol 😂
Have you manage to get that head bolt out yet ?
Not yet, been busy this week but I'm back in the Garage all day tomorrow, so will be trying suggested methods then.
Can't believe how calm you were when you snapped that bolt. Me: aaagggghhhh fffffaarrkkingg ffffaaarrkkkinggg
Cannnnnt! Shit farkkinng cannnt Japanese ffaarrking cant!!!!!!!!
Or words to that effect.
Hi Tom.. I think you where reading the thoughts that were going though my mind at the time. I guess by that time I had already dealt with multiple "Challenges". Hope you enjoy the rest of the series. Ryan
@@RyansGarageUK yeah Ryan hi. I'm loving these vids for your honesty & sheer pluck in taking on this job on limited resources. I had Soupdragons in the 80s because their niche was being a proper full-size "real motorbike" for bikers who couldn't afford a cx. I'm baffled how they're cult bikes now. RS 250s and Benlies, sure, but 250Ns are simply no fun to ride. Thanks for your your work because producing this content is a LOT of work.
😀😀😀😀
Hi Ryan did you manage to get that head bolt out because that looks really stuck in there .. even welding a nut on the top of bolt thread is going to to do exactly the same and snap the bolt .. something is definitely not right there as you’ve heated / lubricated the bolt and it’s just not moving I’m wondering if some one previously had stripped the thread in the crank case and instead of repairing by helicoil they have wound it in and stuck it with high strength lock tight the red one …you may end up taking engine out having the bolt cut level with the crank case and then the old bolt drilled out and have a helicoil fitted please keep us informed of how it goes .. your videos are really good credit to you
Hi Richard, I tried again this weekend and it's still not out yet. I've got one more suggestion to try before I hand it over to someone with more tools and experience or my grinder and drills are being deployed.. One way or another its coming out. :)
Usually marked on the top of the piston, no marking will mean they are original. Might want to get original rings and try the same test, but you would be better to measure the bores and checked from there.
Ohh, that engine was stubborn 😛 I am pretty sure you need more heat to get the bolt out. Propane gas just don't get it hot enough. I use my MIG welder when I have a problem like this, i put on a nut that goes over the bolt and weld on top of it. It needs to be glowing red from the heat.
Thanks, I don't have a MIG, but I'm going to retry with more heat and a stud extractor next.
@@RyansGarageUK be very careful with that, these extractors are very hard/brittle, and can snap off - then it's very difficult to get them out, almost impossible to drill through them (i have been there 😬). I think the safest solution is to get hold of something that can produce more intense heat. Looking forward to your next video, I am curious to see how it goes 😊
Loving the video. The Asian guys remove the collets that way.
As a method of removal it worked, but I've ordered a spring compression tool for next week. 🤞
@@RyansGarageUK The thing is they do it in flip flops.
A few hefty blows with a hammer on the end of the stud as if you were trying to hammer it into the engine should release it, if you can apply twisting force at the same time even better. If you can imagine the threads have pulled up tight against upper surfaces of the “spiral” so the hammer blows release that binding, thats how an impact driver works.
That seems to make sense, and it's something I've not tried. So I'll give that a go. Thanks.
engrossing video Ryan, really good - I admire your tenacity with the bolt. I actually crossed my fingers for you while you were doing it, but alas it didnt help. I am learning such a lot from your efforts so I can't offer too much advice. One thing I would be tempted to do, especially as there was that initial side to side movement in the pistons is to get a rebore. You've got the top end in bits so what do you think?
Thanks Tim. I honestly have no idea if a rebore is needed or not but I'm trying to rebuild it keeping costs to necessary only. So think I'm going to try replacing piston rings and honing the cylinders first.
See a rag appeared and is that a chicken that you have under the tin foil? ha ha ha
I wish I had placed a Chicken under the foil.. Then I wouldn't have been just wasting my time. 😀
I thought you had left the Speedo off so you could tank it through the 30mph zones without perjuring yourself 😂
I am not that devious. I was surprised it wasn't working, and then realized i'd never connected it.
why are you using imperial on a metric system ?
Hi, did I use imperial? it wouldn't have been intentional, I feel work and think in both at times, so sorry if I did something wrong.
Is there only me shouting stilsons at the screen
Hi Andrew, I doubt you were the only one who thought that, I just wish it had been that easy !! Ryan
@@RyansGarageUKstilsons wouldn't have been much good in the end anyway, great job and the detail is helping me and my project imensly.