BALLASTING, the GRITTY TRUTH at Chadwick Model Railway | 190.
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- čas přidán 4. 05. 2023
- The truth is ballasting is dull, but we need to get it right. So we look at which might be the best ballast for which scale or gauge, here at Chadwick Model Railway.
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I found that adding some brown or grey acrylic paint to the glue mix can vary the shade of the ballast it would probably work with the chinchilla sand. I have always found it hard to get the n gauge to look right.
The voice of experience Roger. Many thanks, regards, Charlie
Delivered with your usual aplomb! Now as an N gauge modeller I use Gaugemaster N Gauge ballast. Correct it does have a bit of a glint to it straight from the packet but after PVA/water/washing up liquid is applied it doesn't "shine". Pity you dismissed this one on only a part test ! Your comment seemed to suggest it was okay apart from it was "shiny" when laid dry. Feel free to look at some of my running sessions to see the Gaugemaster in all its glory😊. Cheers Euan
Thanks Euan, a fair comment. However, I did think it a little dark. Regards, Charlie
Thanks Charlie, an interesting comparison of ballast products. I’ve rather settled on the ballasts from DCC Concepts, they do three different colours too. I quite like the size of the OO scale products. On the subject of laying the ballast, you can’t beat that little gadgets produced by James on the Bexhill West CZcams channel. You mentioned that you spent about ten minutes laying the ballast in the traditional way - well I kid you not, I could do the same amount in about two minutes or less with James’s solution. I ballasted most of my ten track fiddle yard at Pevenbourne in a Saturday afternoon with spectacular results - the traditional method would’ve taken days ! Have a look, it really is a game changer and I can’t recommend it enough.
And yes you’re absolutely right, I’ve been there with the scraper after having completed a section of track only to decide to change it and make it “better” 🤣
Take care Charlie !
p.s. I’ve sent you an email.
Hi Bryan, yes I have your email I’m just working on the dates over the next few days. I have commitments that I need to shift around.
I shall certainly look into your recommendation regarding the ballast laying system. I shall have to hunt down a video of it being used.
Regards, Charlie
Should have also done a 50/50 mix of the two as well Charlie. I reckon that would have look top notch. Its amazing what different sizes of ballast are out there for one scale and how wrong some can look. Well worth the excercise and hope lots benefit from it.
Thanks Steve, I’m so pleased that the subscribers have found it interesting. Regards, Charlie
Charlie, what a great tutorial for modelers who are about to embark on blasting their layouts, wonderful information. Cheers Greg
That’s very kind of you to say so Greg. Regards, Charlie
I despair that the model rail industry in the UK didn't move to HO around 1980 when for a couple of years the UK model manufacturing industry pretty much ceased to exist following the demise of the companies that were around at the time. Sadly it didn't happen and we continue with this odd gauge.
Yes, I agree Dixie, but where can we go! Regards, Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway spare a further thought for the Irish and by extension victorian state modellers here in Australia, their models of broad gauge stuff is either 4mm scale or HO but still running on 16.5mm gauge, nightmareish levels of innacuracy for those that get in a twist over such things. There's also the metric vs imperial issue of O gauge and gauge one where both have a version thats either mm to the foot or fraction of an inch to the foot. Rational standardisation passed this hobby by
Fleischmann tried it, didn't they, with a Warship and Mk1 coaches? So far as I can remember, there was never much else, possibly Lima.
@@SeatedViper the problem is maybe more one of who did it and how than it being a bad idea, the lima stuff suffered from non standardised couplings that just to add insult to injury couldn't be swapped for a kadee or tension lock easily. Makes the whole thing a lot less attractive if it doesn't offer any real prospect of running with the biggest market for HO stuff or working in easily with the OO stuff. Also were someone to launch a range of HO british stuff in the US it would probably gain a foothold there and that would act as a market to support it while it grows in the UK, the products almost create their own justifications, A4, A3, terrier, whatever the LMS sent over, basically start with things people over there can go physically see or that have genuine connections of history, then expand out into doing say a heros of WWII collection or similar covering wartime locos from both the US and UK, throw in some wagons and coaches and you begin to have enough of a range to market in the UK as something useful. As with anything its the money not the practicality or the marketing which are both sorta obvious.
If done with this approach it seems kinda sane, more so than a 33 and some suspect looking MK2 coaches chucked into a market with little thought to why or who wants it
Hi Charlie
Another classic.
Nowhere near ballasting yet but great reference material.
Look forward to every second Thursday.
Great value at 9 oz dollars a month .
Keep up the good work.
Stay safe
Howard
Thanks Howard, it’s great to have you onboard. Regards Charlie
As usual, very well done indeed, Charlie. I think videos like this, explaining and demonstrating basic information and methods, are a great service to the hobby. Thank you for taking the time to do it. Cheers from Wisconsin!
Thanks Andrew, that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie
Very timely Charlie. Quite spooky really, as I have literally just started ballasting my layout today. Only difference was that I used Frog tape, and removed it before actually applying the glue. I wasn't sure I would be able to get it up without lifting ballast I wanted to stay after the glue has dried. I have only ballasted a small section so far, as it's the first time I have done it. Have to wait until tomorrow for the glue to dry to see the final results of my labour, but it was looking good when I left it.
That’s great news, I do hope it turns out well. Regards, Charlie
Great idea of the tape, will save the ballest being 3 times width of track😊 poor Chinchillas are going to be a bit scruffy until the local pet supplies re stock. 😅
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Phil. Regards, Charlie
Interesting video Charlie, thank you. As a viewer I think the ‘product roundup’ format on a test board is really useful.
As someone who gave N gauge a shot for my first railway when covid hit, this would have been really useful to me in April 2020! If I ever built another layout, I would certainly look into that WWS extra fine ballast - it looks just right in your video.
Funnily enough, I did try some chinchilla sand that I bought from a local pet shop in a clear unbranded bag. The problem came when I tried to glue it with WS scenic cement. As it dried, cracks appeared all the way through it and it flaked apart. I reckon that particular sand I have is a lot finer than yours which may have been my problem. I actually decided it looked too fine and decided on the WS fine grey blend which although technically overscale for N, I thought it looked ok once weathered.
The chinchilla sand was however used on and around the tracks around my goods yard once I found a way of ‘taming’ it. I actually started with WS fine blend as a base layer, glued and set, then I slowly added a few very thin layers of chinchilla sand over the top, misting with IPA and scenic cement and waiting for each layer to dry before adding another.
Thanks again for a very informative video 👍🏻
Thanks Daniel, for some good info that I may use in my TMD. Regards, Charlie
Another fascinating video Charlie. Certainly a very informative one for all of us replacing track or starting afresh. Ballast is a subject that we don't think too much about, but your insight has certainly changed my view. It's a shame that nearly all of my layout has been done with probably the wrong grade!! Again plenty of little snippets of information for the note book.
Thanks Kevin, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed my ballasting video. It’s a very subjective subject! Excuse the pun. Regards, Charlie
Great video, Charlie. One definitely needs to be in the right frame of mind when taking on a ballast job. Could be considered therapeutic…😂 thanks for sharing.
Yes, something to be tackled in small doses perhaps. Regards Charlie
As a lad, I was always told by older modellers that you should pick the size below that recommended by the makers. Now I am old myself it seems little has changed to make me think otherwise and my latest 0 gauge layout is happily bedecked with 00 ballast.
A sound decision, Bob. Regards, Charlie
Charlie, you have saved a fortune on my swear box! Almost at the stage (again) of ballasting in N gauge and have never been satisfied with commercial stuff. Off to the pet shop… thank you! D
Thanks David, I’m so pleased that you found it useful. Regards Charlie
"Chinchilla sand is NOT made of chinchillas." That's good. I am reminded of how disappointed I was when planted "bird seed" and only got weeds. It's bits like this that make your videos so real - and entertaining. So, what could go wrong?
By the way, chinchilla sand does make a great country road surface in OO, and works well for paved road shoulders.
I’m so pleased you enjoyed the video Jack. Many thanks for the road tip. Regards, Charlie
Great video Charlie, clear explanation, I did like the ballest dispenser from godel valley. Thanks
Thanks Wayne, I’m so pleased that you found the video useful. Regards Charlie
I live on a beach, sorry. What I have found is beach sand, not the orange stuff from builders merchants makes brilliant ballast, you can sieve it to whatever grade you want, it glues well and takes weathering colours exceptionally well too although it actually comes pre-weathered! 😉 Grab a bucket next time your beside the sea-side and it will be as grey as expensive bought ballast when you get home.
What a great a great suggestion Jonah.
Regards Charlie
James at @BexhillWest developed a ballast solution which he sells. Might be easier for those with a lot of ballasting to do?
I shall buy one and give it it a go Steve.
Regards Charlie
Brilliantly produced and narrated Charlie as usual. These videos are really useful to me and others who are still in the planning stage of a layout, getting all the useful nuggets of helpful information up front. The idea of the Chinchilla sand was brilliant. Also it was very useful advice on the PVA dilution. Thanks again Charlie, much appreciated.
You’re most welcome Anthony. Regards, Charlie.
Thanks for this video Charlie. I model in N gauge and find the ballast I’ve used previously to be a tad over scale. That’s why I haven’t ballasted my present layout yet, but I’ll certainly be buying a bag of the chinchilla sand to try.
Thanks again Ron.
Thanks Ron, good luck with the ballasting. Regards Charlie
Very interesting video Charlie. Thanks for sharing your experiment. Roy.
I’m so pleased that you found it interesting Roy. Regards, Charlie
Hi Charlie just watched your latest video great as usual. I have just got some gaugemaster BPD CC 80 auto frog switches you can’t get the frogs wired the wrong way around, you just wire track power to either end and the frog wire to the middle sorts itself out even on double slip points marvellous.
sounds like the sort of design that all manufacturers should follow. Regards, Charlie
Another excellent informative and entertaining video on an important subject. Thanks again.
Thanks Jeffrey, that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie
Chinchillas on the layout would work in larger scales... live scenery if you can get them into the sheep costumes and train them to vocalise appropriately
I think it best to keep to plastic animals.
Bar of course roaming spiders!
Regards Charlie
Across the pond waving . What a good idea using pet supply’s for ballast
Every day is a school day in this hobby, Philip. Regards, Charlie
Thanks for this, Charlie, as an N-scaler/gauger! One of the companies for ballast in America is Arizona Rock and Mineral. I should send you some of the stuff I use from them. It’s actual rock and can be a little dusty, but it’s SO fine, kind of like the chinchilla sand. Problem I’ve had is when it washes away from the sides of the roadbed.
Do you have obviously found an interesting option Andrew. Good luck, regards, Charlie
Another great video from chadwick is definitely the best model railway on CZcams. Your skill and knowledge you impart so valuable to so many like myself, only railway modelling under 12 months. Your videos have been a massive help.
Thanks Mark, for such a heartwarming comment. Regards, Charlie
Watching from Arizona , Charlie. Grew up with Hornby back in the 70's ...carry on, love your work. Sunil
Thanks Sunil, it’s great to have you onboard. Regards Charlie
At the end of the day it,s down to personal preference. Beauty is in the eye,s of the beholder. What you the modeller thinks is right is what matters at the end of the day. Good video though, thank you
Yes Robert, I couldn’t agree more. However, it’s always useful to know what looks best before we start. Regards Charlie
Another very nice and informative video! Thanks for sharing Charlie!
You’re most welcome mate. Regards, Charlie
Interesting and informative as ever thanks Charlie. As well as the cess you can use that Chinchilla sand for period yards and branch lines where they often used ash ballast rather than granite.
Thanks Turns, for an excellent proposal. Regards, Charlie
Excellent Chas, a decent insight into what type of ballasts suit our layouts
Thanks John, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie
The science of ballasting! Well delivered Charlie👍
I’m pleased that you found it interesting Andy. Regards, Charlie
Thank you for another brilliant info Charles
You’re more than welcome mate. Regards, Charlie
Great video very informative as I am just getting ready to start ballasting thank you Charlie 👍
I’m so pleased that you found it useful Clive. Regards Charlie
Another cracking video Charlie. Thank you
Thanks Simon, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards, Charlie
Another great video Charlie. Thank you for paying some attention to us N scalers. I’m glad I watched this video as I’ve just ballasted 8 ft of mainline and have 100 ft to go before your video came out. I’m using Woodland Scenics fine grey blend. Well now I’m on the hunt for Chinchilla sand
😂. We’ll see how that goes and perhaps a mix of the two might do the trick. Very timely video, thx again.
Thanks David, I’m so pleased that you found it useful. Regards Charlie
Another good informative video Charlie thanks for sharing. Yes, I made that mistake using medium ballast on the layout at the start. When we ripped up half the layout to redo the boards, I went woodland scenics fine, what a difference, and more to scale. I haven't the luxury of an airbrush, so I aerosol the track with railmatch sleeper grime when pinned down and wired up with droppers. Then, once ballasted, I create a wash and then brush on either side of the track to create realism. Keep up the fine work regards John
That’s great news John, if only these products were properly labelled. Regards, Charlie
Thanks for that Charlie. Good of you to spotlight N Gauge.
I've used Woodland Scenics fine grey which is passable. The WS grey mix is a more pleasing colour though.
I am a member of the Farnham & District club and the N Gauge sub group. We're in the process of building our next exhibition layout, of Okehampton and using Finetrax for the scenics and chinchilla dust has been chosen for the ballast, which is still a long way off. I suppose a little bit of weathering powders will remove tha brightness. You've encouraged me to try some experiments.
Cheers
That’s great news, Neil. Good luck with your project, regards, Charlie
Hi Charlie, I just thought I should point out (though others may already have done so) that the middle track may well be 1:76 scale, but certainly not 1:176, as stated at 3:28, while the larger gauge track is 1:87, I believe, as it is constructed to HO scale even though it is also used for OO modelling, which for all other purposes is a scale of 1:76. Regardless of any errors, and sometimes because of them, I always enjoy your videos. Many thanks. Stephen
Thanks Stephen, it’s great to have you onboard. Regards Charlie
Great video Charlie! I think you can adjust the sand color by mixing it with Colored Tile Grout. As to that dusty ballast, I do believe that is real unwashed crushed granite. Woodland Scenics is another story. I do not know if they changed their material, but it used to be ground up walnut shells. That was a problem because walnut shells tend to float in liquid. For your modelers in O-16.5 or On30 they can buy "Chick Grit" real cheap. What we have over here is reddish, but it looks good.
Thanks, DK, good info. Regards, Charlie
Another great and informative video, Charlie. Kind regards and enjoy your weekend.
Thanks Mark, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie
Thank you for another informative and interesting video. Greetings from Sweden 🇸🇪.
Thanks Anders, that’s most kind. Regards Charlie
Great tutorial/test of product Charlie. If Chinchilla sand is chosen by anyone, then the option of using a diluted grey or dark grey water based paint would work to darken the sand (if desired). Simply dump the sand into the diluted/much watered down paint then strain the sand with a cheesecloth doubled over. Still very much enjoying your content and sadly I decided to forego a return to model rail and dived into astrophotography instead. One is just as expensive as the other 🥴🥴
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Maurice. Yes the chinchilla sand really is a useful commodity. Regards Charlie.
Struggled to find chinchilla sand here in New Zealand for a cess but discovered sterilised bird cage sand does the same job. It is also variegated in colour. Having a decent cess has made my ropey ballasting look much better. Brilliant idea Charlie!
That’s great news Tim, I’m so pleased that you have found an alternative. Regards Charlie
Hi. Great video. Really enjoyed it. I've been using the chinchilla sand for my roads. Pva,then a layer of the sand. Once dry excess hoovered up. Then painting,weathering etc. Looks quite good.
Thanks Les, that’s a very useful tip. Regards Charlie
Wednesday 10 May: I'm reading reports of flash flooding and a major incident in your area of Zummerzet. Here's hoping you and yours are not affected too badly!
Fortunately, Peter, we’ve escaped the floods. The rainfall just locally was quite moderate. Thanks, regards, Charlie
always fascinating Charlie dont think i would have the patience to do ballasting on your scale. already looking forward to your next vid kind regards
Thanks Geoffrey, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie
Thanks Charlie, this was extremely helpful.
Thanks SR, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie
Very useful...got me thinking now. I had bought a few months ago a very big bag of Jarvis fine ballast. This video has not got my mind going...... im lucky because as yet im not ready to ballast so this has come at a key important time. Thanks ( Im N gauge btw)
You could always return it for a more suitable ballast, OC. Regards, Charlie
Cracking explanation Charlie!
Here to serve the community Cullen. Regards, Charlie.
Sorry if this is rather off-topic, but all that talk of gauges and scales got me thinking. As a Western Region modeller, did you ever consider building any of your permanent way or structures to broad gauge size? I realise that by the time-period you are recreating the railway had been standard gauge for about a century, but I always feel there’s something special seeing all the space around the tracks where the original route had been constructed for 7ft and half an inch!
You make an excellent point David.
Whenever I see the oversized tunnel mouths, I always think of this.
Regards Charlie
The loading gauge and track gauge aren’t really related though. Compare a US double deck container loading gauge with the London Underground tube. Yet both are on standard gauge track. If Brunel built to larger loading gauge (and I’ve heard people in the know like Gareth Dennis say it wasn’t) then that’d be coincidence, not because of broad gauge track.
In short, size of structures isn’t due to broad gauge.
Hi Charlie, very well prepared video, well done!!
Quite by chance I was looking at some ballast only a few days ago. Where we are in Granada the recently installed HST and traditional broad gauge share the same tracks creating what looks like southern region third rail. Its been really well engineered and being new not at all weathered, a light grey colour. I was looking for the branch that lead into an abandoned sugar factory but alass that is now gone but I had the opportunity to take some photos.
Also of interest is a plant for changing gauge of the stock so that trains can run from broad gauge into the standard gauge areas and vice versa, still being commissioned at the moment. I wonder if IKB thought about doing that😅😅
Have a great weekend and good luck from Spain!!
Hi David, yes I do believe that IKB had some rolling stock capable of gauge switching. All sadly lost to standardisation. Regards Charlie
Brilliant Charlie, I have used WS fine ballast in the past for my N-gauge layout and always thought it too big. The chinchilla sand is inspired, already ordered it! Keep up he excellent videos, love them 😊
Thanks starterboy, I’m so pleased you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie
Good, informative vid. No stone left unturned.
Very good Andyrew. Regards Charlie
Very nice video, really interesting and useful to see different ballast types from different manufacturers. Thanks Charlie! 👍🏻
Thanks HJ, I’m so pleased you enjoyed it. Regards, Charlie
Thanks Charlie for a very informative video. You have removed all of my doubts around, Not ballasting my track, just giving it a cork strip, as the track bed.
No ballasting for me!!
Come on John, you know you want to ballast it really! Regards, Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway It's too messy, but not cos I'm OCD!!!
Thanks for the info Charlie! I’ve been meaning to ballast my track for a while, but ballasting has always been one of those things that scares me since it’s so easy to make a mess of your track/get the scale messed up. This video has made me much more confident in doing it. P.S. I moved my eyes for a second since my dog was getting into mischief, and the vacuum at 15:16 scared me far more than it should have 😂.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it MRF.
Regards Charlie
Thank you always love the “How to videos “.
You’re most welcome, John. Regards, Charlie.
Thanks Charlie for another great video! I really like the tape technique. As a side note, the ballast and surrounding conditions depend on the type of line/track. A mainline is normally more pristine compared to branchlines and yards.
Thanks Jade, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. You are of course right about main lines. Regards Charlie
Great video thank you
You’re very welcome Samuel. Regards, Charlie
Yet another informative and well demonstrated video Charlie....Just a quick heads up though...Margaret has just sent me a text asking me if I have any spare spoons!....Apparently some of hers have gone missing....watch out...she is on to you mate :)
Forkin hell, I’m heading for cover.
Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie ,great video. Try going to a garden center, pick up a seed dispenser, mine is round with a funnel and various sized holes, better than a teaspoon for fine placing allast and chinchilla dust..
Thanks Alan, that’s something I hadn’t thought of. Regards, Charlie
I use Garnet sandblasting grit for ballast in either 30/60 combined mesh or 80 mesh. It comes in 25 kg sacks. I also use the hobby shop ballast for further detailing.
Adding the first glue along the sleepers outside the rail to let it soak under towards the centre lessens the chance of ballast getting glued where wheel flanges go.
The 25 kg sack costs about the same as 3 and a half of those 1 litre bottles from the hobby shop. I have seen the grit in 10 kg pails.
Thanks Charlie.
Great you o found a workable solution, Robin. Regards, Charlie
hi charlie great video just trayed the teaspoon with the ballast and its great just got to get some papetts iam on 00 gauge i did flliacsehmann n about ten years ago so please keep the great videos going
Thanks Steven , I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie
On my 00 gauge layout I use N gauge ballast, as advised by the guy who runs my local model railway shop. As it looks better then the 00 gauge ballast. (Edit) I think it is from Jarvis(?)
Thanks Mike, your opinion is much appreciated. Regards Charlie
COLLECTING STUFF TOGETHER AND PLANNING AN N GAUGE LAYOUT FOR MY CHANNEL THE CHINCHILLA SAND IS A TOP IDEA
Thanks shaky hands, I’m so pleased that you found it useful. Regards, Charlie
Greetings Charlie : Ballasting is a tedious [ Theraputic ? ] task; but is one of THE most important finishing touches to scenic realism. The Particle Distribution Curve of the chosen ballast must be narrow ( Minimal fines / Minimal coarses ) and yes; in general; of the * Fine * grading for correct scale appearance ( NO Kitty-Litter .... Purr-Leez ! ). As you discovered and logically so; Fine grade ballast runs like water; so I partially block the Applicator side-gates with strip-styrene inserts to restrict flow. I choose to completely close-off the middle gate and subsequently sparingly apply the mid-track ballast by hand. Everything else is as you demonstrated : Gently tapping the railhead is vital for uniform settling of the ballast. May I humbly suggest that of additional; critical importance is to slowly run the point of a thin; wooden kebab skewer [ To ensure that no damaging of the plastic chairs takes place ] along the inside of the web of the rail ahead of the tapping to dislodge any flange-grabbing particles ... All this PRIOR to the eventual / final application of adhesive .... Much Thanks + Cheers For Now / Johnny 🤙🚂
Thanks Johnny, for such an in-depth and constructive comment. Regards, Charlie
great as usual, thanks charlie, funny but i saw youtube clip saying use one size below the one you model in
Thanks Roy. Perhaps better labelling would be better. Regards Charlie
Awesome Video Charlie
Thanks Christopher, regards, Charlie
Thank you for doing a bit of N! Thanks to this video I'm going straight out to grab a bag of chinchilla sand to experiment with! I also like to wash my ballast before using it, which removes any dust and depending on what I'm working on, I sometimes sieve it to get the grain sizes a bit more consistent. I wonder if I could add a dye while washing the sand, to change its colour... Hmmm...
That’s great news RBT, happy modelling.
Regards Charlie
Charlie I use 70% isoprol to break the surface tension when ballasting 60/40 white glue . The issue I have had come up is the isoprol is causing oxidation at rail joints . i didn't use the isoprol for a couple days and came back to do more bakllasting and it sent the track rails a green colour and have had issues with it since.Power every three sections of track. The track I did earlier has power to every bit of rail whether 2" or 3ft. and no issues. I have had to go back and power all the rails for about 30mtrs. The isoprol wicked down the helix too, lucky I have power to all rails in it , but the oxidisation still persists. Les
That’s a very interesting observation Les. The IPA that I use is always 99%, I wonder if this has a different effect. I shall certainly check out some of my joints a little closer. Regards Charlie
Good video again, Charlie. I think for as long as you've been able to buy ballast for model railways, whatever the manufacturer says about scale, it's always too big, and I've always had better results going down a scale. And then you have the compromise of using HO gauge track for OO scale, meaning the ballast just looks bigger than on scale gauge/sleeper spacing. Your photo of Yeovil also showed that ballast size varies on the real thing too. I wondered if the chinchilla stuff might be useful for ballasting your TMD, as in depots the ballast always seems much more compacted, sometimes to the point of ending up looking more like mud than chips of stone!
You make some excellent points Andrew. Yes I’m after a much finer look in the TMD. Much darker and with appearance maybe not, unlike cinders. Regards, Charlie.
Thanks for this video Charlie I can see you put some work in to make this. I did my ballasting a while ago, I usually use Woodland scenics fine brown blend but I run out. So I bought some DCC Concepts N gauge ballast from my local shop which I found was very good too, It came in a pack with three colours. I made the mistake of using Ballast Magic this time and I had bad results where it had not set in different places so I had to go over it the old way in the end. I had used Ballast Magic before successfully but for some reason it let me down this time. I thought of using chinchilla sand but I did not like the colour. Anyway thanks again for this informative video, I thought you would have mentioned about ballasting around points etc especially in N-Gauge, care is needed.
Chris.
Many thanks for your comment, Chris, and I’m so pleased that you found the video interesting. Regards Charlie
Just begun to ballast the TMD I’m making. Wow, to say it’s time consuming is an understatement when you factor in 8 sets of points etc… It’s also amazing how far it actually goes, the ballast seems to cover lots more than you imagine. It’s is very therapeutic, but you must have patience. Also agree 100% about getting everything on the layout first anything and everything should be down before ballasting. Thanks again Charlie
I’m so pleased that it’s working out well Andy. Patience is a wonderful gift! Regards, Charlie
Hello this is also David from America your terminal block video was very informative thanks a bunch
You’re most welcome David. Regards Charlie
I was pointed to this, by @angelofcrewe, she mentioned chinchilla sand, and erm, well, what a brilliant idea! Never thought I'd be going to Pets At Home for that!! :)
Every day is a school day in this hobby, Andrew. Regards, Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway I'm away looking after my cats who live with mam and dad, and I'm filling up the litter tray, looking at the litter (Catsan) and now I'm thinking, "ooo that might make good little rocks for my quarry"!..... Crackers. :)
Just a little bit of, perhaps superfluous, information from a retired BR driver Charlie. Assume you are sitting in the front driving cab of a loco; to the left of the running rails is the cess (as you quite rightly said.) The space between the running rails is known as the four foot and - on a double track route - the space to the right of the running rails (between the two running roads) - is called the six foot (it would, naturally, be called the cess again if you were running on a single line.) Sometimes, in this day and age, the cess gets called the nine foot. Nine feet being considered the safe distance for on track staff to retire to when a train is approaching whilst they are working on or about high speed running lines. Just a bit of railwayman every day speak to make you smile. Oh, and I love your very talented work too. Keep up the great work.
Thanks CV for such interesting info. Regards, Charlie
Great video Charlie, it's very rare terms of cess mentioned, which is part of the BR rule book on safe areas. for me the sand looked good, plus as you comented weathering down, but most modelers will weather the ballast anyway reguardless of the producer.
Excellent point Vinny, however you can’t weather it lighter. Regards, Charlie
Great video. Hindsight being 20/20, maybe should have started in the middle and worked to the edge to minimize cleanup.
A fair point Andy. Regards Charlie
Brilliant video Charlie. Here is the quick answer to your problem. I use it for everything scale related; from buildings to ballast. find a OO scale; male that is about 6' tall and woman that is about 5' 5" that are standing upright and look well proportioned. Then use them to compare the real World to the things you want to add to a OO model railway, you will be stunned.
I found (all OO scale listed);
Building doors where the door top was at male neck height.
Loco coal the size of a mans chest.
Litter bins as tall as a woman.
Ballast the size of a mans face.
Hand rails as thick as a mans thighs.
Leaves the size of a mans head.
And I think its Ja vis scenic stuff not Jar vis but I could be wrong like my ex keeps telling me.
Cheers and keep doing what you do so well.
Thanks Sjaak, and interesting observation. Regards, Charlie
The one job I hate 😅 I used Woodlands fine and medium blends 80/20. Also made my own spreading box from an old CD case. Works ok.
It’s bizarre why we all hate, what is probably the most important job of all! Regards, Charlie
Thanks ever so much for this video. I have been using Woodland fine but will switch to the Chinchilla sand.
I’m so pleased that you found it. Interesting MS. Regards, Charlie
Network Rail has just relayed a point in bullhead track at Huntingdon (just to the north of the station). The Nene Valley Railway, last line I rode alongside the track bed in Peterborough had bullhead track on concrete sleepers. If modelling continuous welded rail you'll need to deep ballast your track ie the ballast has to almost cover the sleepers, which isn't needed for the traditional section track.
One other thing to consider is the type of ballasted used in the area youvare modelling. The NER used ash ballast in sidings and low speed areas and stone chunks elsewhere.
Thanks for an excellent comment, Neil. Great info on the current use of bullhead. Regards, Charlie.
Interesting and informative as always....I see there are differences in N guage with different manufacturers....
Yes, David, the differences are plain to see. Regards, Charlie
Спасибо Вам.
Интересно.
Thanks VL. Regards Charlie
Charlie my friend, I think I can save you some time. I found that instead of a spoon , which you have very little control, i use an old mustard squeeze bottle. First: you have to look closely but here the squeeze bottle holes vary by brand. You can check in store before buying. Here the smaller hole is in the spicer mustard . Who knew? Second: you don't have to squeeze, it poors out but you can regulate. Soooo much easier and faster.
One other thing, i don't use soap in glue but i do spray down with IPA and if i find it beeds on top or doesn't drain down fast enough, i spray with IPA again . Seems to work fine.
Thanks Bob, excellent advice. Regards, Charlie
I like your experimentation, but there are 2 more things I have done:
HO flatbottom track can have its sleepers spaced out a little more. Cutting the webbing & re-spacing is easy but very tedious. It makes a big difference though.
I became dissatisfied with PVA. It is a good product for fixing wood together but is a resin really suitable for fixing ballast? In my experience, it is a poor product for ballasting: It completely destroys any sound deadening provided by a soft cork base, makes granite ballast go slightly green & has no give at all so just breaks away when you cut the ballast at a board join. I feel many modellers continue to use it simply because they have in the past. There are alternatives: Copydex, Deluxe Ballast Magic. There is nothing to lose by trying them on a small test piece.
I agree, I have tried diluted, Copydex, and it works to a certain extent. However, it does get very stringy. We have yet to find the ideal answer. Regards, Charlie
Hi young(ish) Charlie.
Sorry to rain on your parade but using smaller scale ballast is a trick that has been known amongst enthusiasts for at least 2 decades now. I know this info was broadcast for the benefit of those amongst us that are ignorant of the advice but, I thought I'd point it out anyway as I believe it is common knowledge. Sorry if I offend!
Paul. 👍
P.S. Must be time for a trip down to Bournemouth.
Hi Paul, as you guessed, I am well aware of ballast history! However, clearly chinchilla sand is new to many folks!
I have been down to Bournemouth, just awaiting release approval!
Regards, Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway
Thank you Charlie. And there's me thinking a chinchilla was a species of some kind of small long haired rhodent with sharp teeth. 😁
Paul.
Thanks Charlie
Interesting video
Nick Australia
Thanks Nick. Regards Charlie
I'm just about to start a model railway after a few years away from the hobby. Really looking forward to it except for..... yep, ballasting. But this vid has definitely been helpful so "Thanks Charlie!"
Thanks Jack, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie
good vid big thums up keep up the good vids thanks lee
Thanks mate, so pleased you enjoyed it. Regards, Charlie
good vid thanks lee
Gosh, two comments, Lee. It must have been good!
On the eve of the Coranation and being a chap from the uk your reference to the country that gave birth to railways I was expecting some additional pomp and ceremony to the occasion still I get it. There is world revolving beyond the royals for the rest of us in the world ha ha. Should we be reading more into Chadwick recent videos discussing TT and certainly seeing N scale makes me wonder what does Bishop have up his sleeve along with the Rolex. I’m thinking I might do a video on ballasting covering curves since many ballast spreaders are a bit ordinary on tighter bends anyway nifty gritty always stay safe and like that new purple Hornby loco that plays God Save the queen. Lord save us all ha ha ha ha.
A great comment, Josef and good luck with your channel. I do watch your videos. Regards, Charlie
A point of interest is they still manufacture bullhead rail alongside flat bottom!
How odd. Do you know who uses it. Regards, Charlie
"It isn't made of crushed Chinchilla's." Priceless 🤣🤣
I was shocked at that news too. Regards Charlie
Excellent, as always. V interested in the pre treatment using isopropyl alcohol, and then washing up liquid in with the glue. DCC Concepts also produce a good N Gauge ballast (there are lots of manufacturers out there, of course). Thanks for featuring N Gauge in your video, as well.😊
The IPA lowers the surface tension and causes the glue to soak right in. Without ipa some ballast floats and the glue sits on top. More IPA is needed as you go along as it evaporates. A fine sprayer is best.
I downloaded a spreader from thingiverse and 3D printed it.
Thanks guys, your opinions are much appreciated. Regards, Charlie
Quick Wife Hair Dryer Method. Spray your entire track witg glue. Get a tub of your grit and throw into the air at the same time waving your wife hair dryer around. Within a few minutes your entire track is done. Plus the walls, doors, carpets, and also the wife should she be standing in the way. I hope this helps.
Tried it but I can’t get it off the ceiling!
Excellent video Charlie I think you have been very fair in you tests and unbiased. a great video, I enjoyed it very much and learnt by it. I'm sure others watching this episode will have learnt something too { those that are new to this Hobby, and those who thought they new lol } . thank you Charlie.
Thanks Tony, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie