Eliminating vibration from a 2 piece drive shaft
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- čas přidán 26. 08. 2024
- I've been chasing down a vibration in my 2 piece driveline for a while, and it all started when I lowered the truck and re-geared the rear-end. The vibration stemmed from two causes: incorrect working angles on the universal joints from a carrier bearing relocation kit, and some worn out components like the carrier bearing and universal joints. It's not too bad to fix at all, and the parts cost less than $100 to make the repair.
Plus, I give a quick review on the 4.30 gears I've had in for a few weeks now, and they are a blast to drive!
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Its amazing how much of a difference a few simple parts and the correct angles can make! cant believe I put this job off for so long...
Yo I m doing a 2 4 drop on my truck was wondering how you moved your center support bearing to change the drive shaft angle ?
Have a 94 GMC and replaced the carrier bearing but I'm having a problem getting the yoke into the front front part of the driveshaft. The metal and rubber seal are preventing easy insertion into the front part of the compound driveshaft. Can't seem to find any answers on YT. Help please. I need the use of my truck.
@@michaelpearce8661 it’s keyed so it will only go in one way. It can be a pain but once you get it lined up it will slide right in.
@@lukeduke1573 I know. The splines have one thick spline and the rest are the same size. Getting beyond the rubber gasket was my problem. Found someone with a little more weight behind them and he was able to push it in as I aligned the short piece that has the U-Joint on it. We got it back together. Thought I got everything lined up properly as far as the replacement of all three U-Joints but I feel a slight vibration that is new.
I have a huge question LT that I really need to ask you.
At 5:52, you should turn the bearing splitter 90 degrees in the press. You're putting the pressure across the threaded rod of the splitter, which can bend the rod. Turn the splitter 90 degrees and let the actual splitter transfer the load across the gap of the press plates :)
you got me there, should've paid attention to that
@@LawrenceTolman I only know this because I now have a bearing splitter with a bent threaded rod lol.. what the heck? how'd this happen? ;)
You are really helping with my future project 99 Nbs gmc short bed stepside 5.3 3.73 .put a 6.2 in your truck over 400 hp na and add boost you can set your hp where you want it 500 600 700 or more!!
I would love to see a crazy durable 5.3 or 6.0 motor in the 500 to 600 hp range. Something that is good for a daily, but fun when you need it to be.
Frank Sweet not possible without force induction or nitrus
@@cesarconh895 you need to check out Texas speed if you think you need that.
@@cesarconh895 completely possible with a 6.0 at least 500
Start with an L33 and you're well on your way
I got a daily driver 600 nitrous (2 kits) ext cab 5.3 stock block stock heads just support mods for the cam and fuel system
From Truck Tech to CZcams you make great informative video content. Keep it up man enjoy your work (and play) 😁
Glad you enjoy it! and you're right, it doesnt seem like work really, it is a blast
I agree with Hunter, swap with a 6.2. There no replacement for displacement plus you can make some crazy numbers without draining the budget. Keep up the awesome job LT.
Thanks! Yes for sure, it needs more displacement. I wanna go big
I got rid of the two piece drive shaft and got 1 pieces drive shaft which is a 5” diameter aluminum and threw that junk carrier bearing in the trash after changing it 3 times in 5 years and it came from East Texas Dodge drive shafts for at the 800 bucks and I love it!
On an extended cab 2wd? Who’s it holding up
I would say go for a lq9 6.0L high output then do the big 3 as they say heads, cam and intake manifold. Do the airaid modular intake tube with k&n drop in panel filter long tubes headers if you don't have emissions in your state you already have a nice exhaust set up. Then custom tune should be a nice amount of power to have fun with and plenty reliable.
The vibration is a result of velocity changes of universal working thru an angle as opposed to a CV or constant velocity joint, if you refer a uni to a clock with bearings at 12, 3, 6 & 9 as the rotate to next position velocity is constant if no angle but when you work through an angle velocity increases thru first part say from 12 to 3 then decreases from 3 to 6, this angle is say 3° then next uni is 2° then they will not cancel each other out but if you had a third uni at 1° the same direction as 2° uni they would cancel out the 3° uni in opposite angle, so your total angles should be as shallow as possible but your included angles should cancel each other out, some drive shafts have a CV joint at centre bearing so only have to set front and rear most uni angle to cancel each other, so if budget allows have drives haft shop upgrade to centre CV is an option as CV is just that a constant velocity joint so does not affect the equation, just some info to add to a good video for practical purposes done here, good job.
Well stated! Your explanation is much more elegant than I could come up with.
What's up LT
this is David from el Paso tx. Love your videos and tv show I have a 07 new body style Silverado.ext cab You're a big expiration on my journey to fix my truck.
Thanks for watching, I appreciate it a ton! I love wrenching on these old pickups and seeing projects others come up with as well.
Nobody gone mention the shoulder overtake? 😂😂
lol... a few people did
I had the same problem with my press while I was replacing a carrier bearing. I got a 6”x6” timber and cut 4 pc. Put two under each leg. Screwed and bolted the timber’s raising the press 11” off the floor. The timber’s are also heavy enough, so it won’t be top heavy but, you can still slide it around on the shop floor if needed.
The angles. From the carrier slip yoke to the pinion yoke should be offsetting equal at maximum 3 degrees. Leaving parallel lines from both running horizontal. I'm always amazed how 2 identical vehicles can have two totally different problems. I would think keeping the front drive line flat to the carrier wouldn't hurt you any. More important is the rear drive line angle. Anyway, always appreciate your content! Have a good one.
could you not lay the shop press on its side on the floor? then have as much length in it as needed?
Thanks for the instructions and confirmation on what I believe happen in my case, transmission was shifting hard in the second, took it into the transmission shop that had replaced it previously in 2016, no problems then this time the real seal on the transmission leaked and I had a vibration at 60 6570 worse as it goes up. I believe is they didn’t line it up like you stowed here or that hanger bearing is somewhat worn either way, taking it into the shop tomorrow and I will have him replace that hanger bearing, and all the year joints. Great video thanks again
Hint at what’s to come with the Procharger hat????
6.0 swap would be cool, basically a drivetrain swap from a 2500 to a 1500 and what it takes to get it done and make it compatible with OEM stuff in the 1500. Can’t wait to see what you’ll pick!
lol... maybe one day, but before I add any form of forced induction I want to start with a little larger engine.
2000 2WD Silverado here 4" lift installed this vid I hope will help with my lift vibration!
install U-joints, what I do used a balljoint press snap- on BJPI works pretty good..👍
I wish you had a before and after difference on the 60 foot with time slips. I'm going from a 3.73 in mine to a 4.30 also to help it get out of the hole. My best 60 in my truck right now is a 1.84.
I wish I had as well. I cant guess, but it is a noticeable improvement.
What’s the part # for that moog center carrier bearing man.
Your contributing problem to your vibration is your rear pinion angle is starting at 0.7* and your transmission angle it at 3.8*, those two things aren't parallel. If they were parallel then both your transmission angle 3.8* and rear pinion angle would be also 3.8*. The front shaft should also be close to the transmission angle I believe +- 2.5*.
You just passed someone by driving on the shoulder. Wtf. ?
they were turning anyway...
Then you can also put on a bottle of nitrous if you get bored between then and going boost. Nice build man 👍👍
I like the way you think!
L92 based stroker with AFR heads, but that could be what is on the book for my project.
Thanks for sharing your driveline angles. I changed the carrier bearing on my son's 2000 Silverado and noticed the front driveshaft wasn't totally level. It's just slightly angled down towards the carrier bearing. Couldn't find any info anywhere on allowables or angle range. I suspect that the desired angle of the front driveshaft is 0 degrees, but there had to be a range due to mfg tolerances and such.
I have seen body lifts. First time for me seeing a press lift.
Gotta improvise to get the job done sometimes.
@@LawrenceTolman I understand. Just thought it was funny. Better then paying a shop.
Really enjoying the series!
thanks!
Great video, very informative. Hope you don't mind a little friendly advice, wait till you get out of town before you floor it haha!
Great too see an @home fix with this video thanks “LT”
I would love to see a 6.0 LQ9 in that truck maybe even supercharged
I second this opinion!
any LS with a whipple would be badass in my book
A new 6.2 would be sweet
for sure, those are great engines.
Great video. you should go to copart and find a escalade or yukon for the 6.2 Hell it would be cool to rebuild a wreck like the guys from goonsquad.
Heck yeah, that would be fun for sure.
U have a part number ? On the center bearing or know the diameter for the bearing
Thanks man this helped me out alot ! Love the "ugly" truck
Thanks! I’m loving it more and more as I work all the little bugs out of it
great tips but also your broadcast experience shines through and new fan here:) subbed.
Awesome, thank you!
Did you pass that car, on the shoulder?
Can you drop some part # I appreciate you bro
Any update lol
Can you post the parts you used?
Hey LT great video, did you also have to use shims to get rid of the vibration or did the carrier bearing relocation cure that? (Besides replacing the old carrier bearing). Thanks!
How did you narrow it down to the output shaft bushing?
I got an 05 I put shackles on and then shimmed it to correct the angle. Found that my center support bearing was bad so I replaced it. I now have vibes that I can't figure out. I replaced the ujoints and the drive shaft is balanced.
Also if you had to guess what do you think the cruising rpm would be on the highway/freeway around 70
its right around 2,500 at 70
What about the pinion gear, does it need to be also replaced ??
Put it in the Frgrteor over night it well go no problem
How much does the mileage change from stock for the transmission and rear end upgrades? Had to ask to get a idea of how much to expect to spend on extra petrol to get to work and then to the parents on the weekends to do some running around and chores?
Great tech! Keep it up!
Thanks lt doing mine !
No problem
+1 respect for the jorts
Great video man nice!👍 Hey i was thinking of doing 4.56 rear gear and posi on my 2000 silverado 1500 2wd 5.3L. Think that would be ok to daily?
Depends on a lot of things, but mainly tire size. Mine are a little taller than some at 31.5” which helps a little, but if I had to guess you’d be spinning 2,600-2,700 at 70 with 4.56 and a 29” tall tire. Less rpm with a taller tire.
What kind of MPG are you getting on the highway?
Here's a question that im hoping you can give some insight too. What's your thoughts on GMs notorious 8 speed issues that the engineers can't seem to fix? I drive a 17 High Country 6.2L and bought it new and changed everything over to Amsoil and never had an issue. Also i just installed a Trifecta tune.
to be honest, I'm not sure what issue you're talking about.
@@LawrenceTolman I'll explain, the shake/shudder and harsh shifting from 1st to second and vice versa. There's tons of forum's about. GM has several bulletins on fluid changing etc... Some had it so bad the TC was replaced. Plus there's class action law suits against GM. Check out GM Authority
great job tho
how did you adjust the trucks speedometer to compensate for the different gears?
using HP Tuners software. you can make corrections to the speedometer as well as the shift points of the transmission, because they are all based on MPH
Ok. Got a question for ya. Speaking on rear gears just bought a 96 Mustang cobra 4.6 dohc t45 5 speed. I am wanting to do rear gears. But i dont want it scream down the highway as i do drive it and plan to show it but also drag race it. Something that will help take off also
everybody's definition of "screaming down the highway" is different, but I'd do 3.90's or 4.11 at least. I had a 4v swapped mustang a few years back and I went to a 3.73, but wish I had gone a bit steeper.
@@LawrenceTolman i just dont want like 3500 rpms
Id do like a 6.0 or 6.2 swap
Defiantly need more cubes for sure
Cool project. How were the angles measured? 11:48 Is passing on the shoulder allowed in you state?
hmmm... it must be because I always obey all traffic rules of course
Do you grease the rear yoke until the grease starts to ooze out?
for me, I just hit it with a couple good pumps every now and again.
@@LawrenceTolman Thank you I will give it a try this weekend!
Hello great video do you know the part number to the universal joints you bought and where did you purchased them
Summit Racing has Spicer U joints, measure the cap diameter and overall width to research what u joints you have. My 1981 C10 long bed has two each 1350s and one 1330 on the two piece drive shaft.
LT, what type of drive Shaft are better, one pice or two piece ? Greets from México
usually, if it's longer like on an extended cab truck, a 2 piece is more stable, but they are more difficult to set up the driveline angles
awesome
at 11:50 holly crap ....lol
I have a 09 gmc sierra crewcab, I planned to install a 4/6 drop, I heard it is recommended to replace the drive shaft with a 2 piece version, do you have any recommendations for least expensive application vs buying a 2 piece, I saw one for about $1100, I was wondering if I can pull one from from a truck that would match mine
Get a 2 piece driveshaft from an extended cab at the junkyard, the wheelbase is the same and you can buy the kit without the driveshaft for $350 or you can make your own crossmember for cheaper.
@@ivansaenz5178 what year on the 2 piece shaft from a chevy or gmc sierra extended cab
@@HL-kb1ex my cousin has a ‘10 Silverado and used the driveshaft from a 04 Silverado extended cab and it fit his crew cab. As long as you still have the 4L60 then any extended cab driveshaft will work.
Thumbnail driveshaft is improperly phased.
Casual pass someone on the shoulder 😂😂
Why in the world people has to focus the camera on themselves instead of focusing on the main work been perform, It's annoying.
Save your resr brakes, get a linelock
i really should have one
@@LawrenceTolman yeah you probably want one. Be bad ass too when your motors done built up. Makes it easier to do burn outs. I can do brake boosted burn out in my big truck but the hydroboost works really well so have to modulate the brake pedel. Could always choke the front tires too i guess.
You have a tcc problem
You think your truck is ugly? You should see my '95 Chevy 1500 Silverado. It REALLY needs to be painted.
I suppose ugly is relative, but the truck earned its nickname from when I first got it, and it has lost a lot of the ugly since I first got it.
@@LawrenceTolman I have an '87 Chevy R10 fleetside longbed that is nice looking for it's age. It has a tired 305 in it. Both the trucks have throttle body injection. I want to put a mild 383 stroker in it. I was thinking of going with an LS 6.0l engine also. I like what you are doing. I thought the 8.1 liter was an LS design and I was considering putting that in my '87 but it is more like the 427/454 style. Take care.
🤙🍕
Roland shitz