Repair and Hopefully Run - The Hornby Dublo 8F 2 rail loco, Quite the challenge!
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- čas přidán 20. 08. 2024
- I have had the loco for a while and its never ran, putting it on the track, some smoke from the motor with a bit of a glow so clearly a short. So a Repair a hopefully run video (spoiler it did run) but once I started to dig into the problem this expected clean became a bit more of a challenge.
Join me while I just enjoy the hobby and try to repair this old loco.
#hornby
#modelrailway
#restoration - Zábava
You were really successful for your first time rewinding a motor, congratulations 😊👍
yes, thankyou, probably luck rather than skill, thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
NICE JOB , GREAT JOB ON THE REWIND , SOMETHING I STILL HAVE TO TRY
I had nothing to loose and I think more luck that it worked rather than skill. thanks again
You did well there. A good loco from the past!!.
I've a good runner as well!!
Regards
Thank you very much! and thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
Wow - great job. I think 3 in 1 oils are fine on these older models because there are no plastics.
Thanks, I put so little on, I am sure it will be fine, but happy to take onboard advice for others more experienced and so I will investigate the Bachmann oils.
You’re a braver man than I doing a rewind ! Well done I’ve never dared but I think I might be confident enough to give it a go now. Thanks 😂. Truly lovely machines these. I have a 2-rail one, but am looking for a 3-railer for my 3-rail layout.
Yes fantastic locos, with regards to the rewind, I had nothing to loose and it worked, possibly more luck than skill. anyway thanks for watching.
@@dustyshelfcollectables
For my prewar 0-6-2T I cheated and found a reconditioned one on eBay. I had to send the old armature back, which seemed fair enough as that too will get a new lease of life for someone else. One problem I’ve had with a couple of older Dublo locos has been worn commutators! Basically black patches on the segments where the copper has completely worn away down to the plastic (or is it Bakelite ?) underneath. I can’t see any solution to this other than an armature replacement.
@@robinforrest7680 I have ha a couple like that and also poor edges where the brushes catch, yet to find a solution other that replace sadly as you say.
Dusty. a brave man, congratulations ! your video shows the loco is a Wrenn which will have a number of difference from Dublo, not significant, but worth noting : brushes, commutator, suppressor.
The ringfield motor is an interesting comparison with the 1/2" moter in your Castle from earlier this year.
I did not appreciate its a wrenn, thank you. With regards to the armature, I really had nothing to loose and amazed it worked! I have just gone back and had a look aging at the castle, thanks for pointing that out.
Very interesting in deed, well done braver man than me rewinding a motor, but I cringed when I saw you use 3 in 1 oil for lubrication, a big No No, its a mineral oil and can damage mechanism, may I suggest using the range of oils by Bachmann, a nice selection of oils and greases, fir all jobs, light oil, gear oil, lithium grease, white grease etc , will last you for years, I use them all the time, as for decreasing wheels etc, I use lighter fuel, decant into a shallow dish, and with a small paint brush or soft toothbrush, scrub the area or leave to soak in the solution, remove shake off excess, it will evaporate and leave No residue to stop electrical flow, I also use it lighter fluid on a cotton bud to clean loco wheels , keep em coming
Point taken, and thank you for the advice, learning all the time. lithium grease would be a very good option and I will take a look at the Bachmann lubricants . Thank you for watching and the feedback!
@@dustyshelfcollectables they're called Hob-e-lube, 7 pack of oils and greases, for motor bearings use the lite oil or gear oil, for the worm gear use sparing amount of white grease, there's also graphite powders included, stay clear of those. To degrease I use lighter fluid on a cotton bud and evaporates doesnt leave a film.
@@hortoncommonmodelrailway Great, thanks, I will take a look.
Interesting video. Did you count the number of turns coming off? Where the old coils connected in star with one end of the three coils connected together? What current was it drawing when finished? As far as I know Dublo connect the coils in star while Triang connect in delta - you re-connected in delta. If you look at the armatures in a Dublo and an X04 motor they are in slightly different positions - probably about 30 degrees out. This is due to the connection. Does your engine have slightly different performances in different directions? I had a Dublo motor where the everything looked fine and the resistances between the commutator was okay. But it just would not run - no torque at all. But when I looked at the commutator it has twisted round so was not aligned with the rotor poles - it was way off. I rotated it to the right place, which broke a wire. After unwinding one turn and resoldering it - it went fine.
With a small difference in commutator position between star and delta the Dublo armature should run okay in delta, though may run a little better with correct commutator positioning. They are a push fit and twist with pliers. In the original star they used about 0.15 mm wire which is what you are using - 150 turns seems a bit low though not that much so, but you reconnect in Delta so 3 coils are active most of the time, not two, which probably compensates. Ron Dodd goes 275 to 300 turns per pole he says but he does say he's using more turns than normal (though he star connects) so maybe he's using 40 SWG (0.122mm) wire which is what is used for Triang (270 turns per pole) which are Delta connected. Having more turns will give more torque for a given current, but it will need more volts - so it has a lower top speed.
From what I've seen on line, Dublo armatures seem to use about 4 m of wire per pole, whereas Triang seem to be 7 m of wire per pole so 150 turns seems okay since the armatures are about the same size and just ratioing the length to turns. I've not found an explicit value for the original Dublo turns. Has anyone seen a value? People seem to wind on length of wire rather than turns.
Thank you for your comprehensive comment, so much information there its clear you know the subject, unlike myself. I must confess my aim was purely to get the loco running and did not do so deep as to measure current or dwell. The wind I used was simply what I was taught at collage 20 odd years ago so it is interesting to hear and therefore understand that there are different winding patterns, and these are specific to manufacturers. What I a can tell you, I did count the turns coming off, the segments ranged between 140 and 165 so I went for 150 on the rewind going with the logic a lower number of winds for speed and higher for torque, 150 felt right. As for the pattern of the wind the original was all over the place, I really think someone had tried before and simply created a short. As for the power once rewound it seems consistent in both directions. I used a 0.15mm wire but didn’t measure the overall length.
Anyway, thank you for the information, I will indeed read up more on the subject and thanks for watching.
and by the way, could you tell us the size / gauge of wire you used for rewinding.
I used a 0.15mm wire but only as I had some, so no idea if that is correct.