To state material does not have tensile strenght of steel is true as most likely those are made out of aluminium alloy, but tensile strenght is not what you’re looking for in that application. What you mean these metals, which may well be press&sinter manufactured from powder, are brittle. They are not ductile. Ductility would be great and would allow you to go plastic deformation without breaking. For technical discussion it’s important to use terms which are universially agreed and standardized.
As for what happened to the old transformer, I've got a guess. Output transformers have inductance as well as capacitance between the layers of windings. That forms a resonate "tank" circuit. If the output stage breaks into oscillation, that resonance can generate high voltages that will blow out the insulation on the windings. You've now got a shorted transformer that can take out the finals. That's theory, but what I can say for sure is that I have a few 1960's transistor amps (think small tape recorders) that have a push-pull output stage and output transformer. And they WILL oscillate if not loaded. The difference is since they're powered by 9V, the voltage doesn't get high enough to damage the transformer. The load boxes you talked about may not provide enough load to keep the power amp stable. Some models may work fine with some amps. But if they're not providing the same load as a speaker (which would make them run hot), they may not work with all amps.
Because splined shafts that have compressed together are so prone to breaking when you try to spread them apart again, I don't recommend that newbies try it; but an alternative that won't do any damage is to put a bit of cutoff rubber band that is slightly longer than the diameter of the shaft into the slot before pushing the knob back on. Or, drape a very thin piece of rubber band over the shaft and push the knob back on. If it doesn't work, at the very least it's not likely to cause any further damage or impede further repairs. Another possibility is to put a small dab of thin non-hardening putty on the splined shaft or in the knob, but the putty might be difficult to remove later (especially from the inside of the knob), and it has to be very thin and soft or it'll take so much force to push the knob on that you might break the pot. It sure beats using glue, however. Don't glue knobs on!
I checked out Brad's channel and really liked it. I was really impressed with what he did to a couple of Roland JC-77's and would like to make those changes to my JC-77. So I sent him an email asking if he would share his notes. :o)
the guy that designed the amp was on Tone Talk. He said when he delivered the initial prototypes to Eddie, Eddie had some guy reverse engineer it and build a handwired one. I wonder where that amp is and how it sounds.
If you want to learn anything in the world learn from someone! I learning and you actual talk and what’s in your head helps. What I need to learn is troubleshooting electrical theory and in line path troubleshooting.
Suhr, Fryette, and Waza are where it is at. The UA Ox box, like Torpedo Captor, has a “simplified” low end impendance curve without a proper resonance spike.
I don't consider it weird watching a competent tech fix things.
I appreciate your commitment to the sanctity of lunch.
I enjoy watching your videos for three reasons. First, the education, secondly, your professionalism, and lastly, your sense of humor. Thank you Sir.
Peavey fan here. Love yours and Brad's videos. 2 of my favorite channels.
Personally enjoy learning something new...which happens everytime you post a video... Thanks for this😎👍
"Behind the knobs, a lot of loose nuts."
To state material does not have tensile strenght of steel is true as most likely those are made out of aluminium alloy, but tensile strenght is not what you’re looking for in that application. What you mean these metals, which may well be press&sinter manufactured from powder, are brittle. They are not ductile. Ductility would be great and would allow you to go plastic deformation without breaking. For technical discussion it’s important to use terms which are universially agreed and standardized.
There is little more informative or entertaining than watchimg a learned craftsman ply his trade.
Well heck,,, I love watching other people work.
As for what happened to the old transformer, I've got a guess. Output transformers have inductance as well as capacitance between the layers of windings. That forms a resonate "tank" circuit. If the output stage breaks into oscillation, that resonance can generate high voltages that will blow out the insulation on the windings. You've now got a shorted transformer that can take out the finals. That's theory, but what I can say for sure is that I have a few 1960's transistor amps (think small tape recorders) that have a push-pull output stage and output transformer. And they WILL oscillate if not loaded. The difference is since they're powered by 9V, the voltage doesn't get high enough to damage the transformer. The load boxes you talked about may not provide enough load to keep the power amp stable. Some models may work fine with some amps. But if they're not providing the same load as a speaker (which would make them run hot), they may not work with all amps.
Because splined shafts that have compressed together are so prone to breaking when you try to spread them apart again, I don't recommend that newbies try it; but an alternative that won't do any damage is to put a bit of cutoff rubber band that is slightly longer than the diameter of the shaft into the slot before pushing the knob back on. Or, drape a very thin piece of rubber band over the shaft and push the knob back on. If it doesn't work, at the very least it's not likely to cause any further damage or impede further repairs. Another possibility is to put a small dab of thin non-hardening putty on the splined shaft or in the knob, but the putty might be difficult to remove later (especially from the inside of the knob), and it has to be very thin and soft or it'll take so much force to push the knob on that you might break the pot. It sure beats using glue, however. Don't glue knobs on!
I checked out Brad's channel and really liked it. I was really impressed with what he did to a couple of Roland JC-77's and would like to make those changes to my JC-77. So I sent him an email asking if he would share his notes. :o)
the guy that designed the amp was on Tone Talk. He said when he delivered the initial prototypes to Eddie, Eddie had some guy reverse engineer it and build a handwired one. I wonder where that amp is and how it sounds.
“Behind the knobs are a lot of loose nuts” sounds like the British aristocracy!
I'm just here to learn best practices, and thankful for the good example to follow
Oooh a livestream, nice! a Q&A livestream in the future would be a good idea, if you could manage.
People used to glue TV knobs on too. When glue was used for that it held on better than it did on anything else.
It’s not weird at all…. Regular tv … that s*** is weird lol. Thanks for these videos. Love’em!
If you want to learn anything in the world learn from someone! I learning and you actual talk and what’s in your head helps. What I need to learn is troubleshooting electrical theory and in line path troubleshooting.
Suhr, Fryette, and Waza are where it is at. The UA Ox box, like Torpedo Captor, has a “simplified” low end impendance curve without a proper resonance spike.