Kit E92: Hybrid Engine Bay Built
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- čas přidán 3. 07. 2024
- We continued our work on the engine bay, finishing up the motor mounts and the walkways on either side of the Hybrid Diesel that will be placed into the starboard hull next week. So, come join Admiral Marianne, our XO, Brian, and myself, Captain Blood as we continue to build our DIY 50' performance/cruising kit catamaran from Schionning Designs. Then we will set sail on the Solitaire 1520 that we helped design, for a circumnavigation voyage around planet Earth.
The S/V Lynx Website:
www.svlynx.com
Patreon (help us out by becoming part of our Patron Crew!)
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0:00:00-Introduction to this week's video
0:00:55-S/V Lynx Logo
0:01:10-Gluing the Motor Mount Blocks
0:07:13-Installing the Motor Mount Blocks
0:17:02-UV protection
0:17:33-Building the Engine Bay Walkways Webs
0:26:37-Creating the Walkways and Dummy Coves
0:30:59-Wrap up with the Admiral and Captain - Sport
I am surprised with the low subscribers. The Admiral and her side kick puts out very informative content. Happy that they take the time to share. This slows down the work a lot. Hats off to the crew. Thanks for sharing
We're happy enough building our boat, everything else is bonus. - the Sidekick.
I am finally all caught up! Can't wait to see more of what your build brings
We'll keep building 🙂
Great progress. Im glad you thought of UV protection on exposed surfaces. Depending on the epoxy characteristics, heat under the black plastic may actually be beneficial for an optimal cure.
Thanks! We just keep plugging along.
Ok, good stuff👍
I had forgotten whether you had kick up rudders or not. Good decision, I wish we had done that!
Yep, they have some benefits! Good thing, they are going to be a lot of work to build!
Always look forward to watching your progress. Looks great!
And I look forward to you kind comments, thanks for keeping our spirits up!
Looks like you made a little picnic bench just need a table in the middle
lol. We'd have to use the diesel for the table top.
I'm really enjoying the build and reading the comment section for different perspectives.
We enjoy reading all the comments too!
Although I am not a fan of the electric pipe dream, I will say that is some nice work.
If you are referring to our hybrid diesel/electric, remember that we can motor with the diesel engine whenever necessary. The electric motors are just an alternate (with very short range at any decent speed). But, they will get us into and out of an anchorage quietly, without waiting to warm up a diesel. And thanks for the compliment.
electric is the unchallenged future of transportation, combustion engines will be looked at like steam engines in a very short time.
@@licencetoswill I really doubt it considering the state of the industry now. The energy density of gas cannot be matched by and electric vehicle. Plus the damage to the environment is much greater building and refining components for batteries.
@@licencetoswill nah I see that as a pipe dream. Don’t see any big electric plants being built. To charge all those electric trucks or even cars. Look at California what have they built to supply the electric vehicles? Wait we have wind mills but they only work on windy days. We have solar farms that get destroyed in a hail storm. Just stating facts. It’s a good alternative yes but not efficient as of today. What will be needed is many nuclear reactors to make that happen. To supply all the electricity for electricity powered transportation. It works for one that drives to work and back. Rolling Brown outs. Wait then people will have generators. But it’s a nice dream I guess.
I understand the hybrid. Don’t understand the 100 percent electric. I see most of them have a generator that runs on fuel for a back up.
Super nice job, as usual! It appears that the walk/seat boxes you have made are actually also watertight compartments which will provide added (submerged) bouyancy right at the heaviest point in the hull lengths.
That is part of the plan! The boat is designed with plenty of sealed flotation areas to make her positively buoyant. Not all cats are built that way, but Schionning designs it into their models.
Phil I wanted to give you a heads up about something on the engine mount. I'm not sure if this will affect you given that your engine is probably a lot lighter than your typical ginormous V8 skiboat engine, and that your coupler might be different.
On ski boat engines it's very common for wood engine mounts to settle slightly over time. Even when completely encased in fiberglass. The danger here is that they settle enough that coupler alignment is no longer possible because the settling has exceeded the engine's adjustable range.
To pre-solve this problem just make sure that your engine adjustments are on the low side when you go to drill the prop shaft hole.
On another topic, the engine is far more adjustable vertically than it is horizontally so pay particular attention to the horizontal alignment- especially the angle of the engine.
Sorry, I'm just a veteran of a skiboat rebuild and the engine was a real PITA!
Good advice, thanks, we'll do that.
Your videos put me in a great mood saturday mornings, I dont have any helpfull coments because youve already done it the right way lol .
Sunday it is here
We're glad you enjoy the videos!
By closing up engine floors, your giving up storage should cut bin covers in that space.
I answered this one in an earlier comment, but the short answer is, they are part of the boat reserved buoyancy compartments.
No that’s a secret agent hiding spot. This will not be shown for others to know of this.
Well, darn I could’ve had some food for thought on this project. A little flotation foam in there would help cut down engine noise. I think maybe those empty spaces could act like a drum and amplify the engine noise, but I’m probably overthinking it. As always watching every minute, enjoying every minute, thanks
I do think you may be overthinking it... but if they turn to be noisy, we can always cut a hole and pour in liquid foam to fill them later.
Great work. Much better ending to the video this episode. Great job!
Thanks!
Excellent job….always watch your videos…
Thank you! Cheers!
Those cavities on each side of the engine would have made great new and used oil tanks. But probably too late now. I enjoy watching your videos
I was thinoing to same. Also storage for things like tools etc. Using a trap door on top of each compartment for access.
Though we would love to use them as storage, they are part of the positive buoyancy design of the boat, so they have to be sealed compartments. There are many of these to make S/V Lynx 'unsinkable' Yes, I know about the Titanic, but we do the best we can :)
@@SailingSVLynx Well the tanks would be sealed, and Oil is lighter then water so does "Float" No worries, your boat.
Re your motor mounts, have you allowed clearance of the propshafts to come out without needing to drop your rudders? If so (I hope), then your motor mounts placement needs to take the shaft clearance angle into consideration when you place your mounts. Otherwise your shaft alignment to the engine drive plate will give you grief.
She's lookin good!
Hey Rob. No, there isn't any way to leave that kind of room since the prop shafts are a couple of feet long. But, since we have kickup rudders, we don't have to worry about 'dropping' the rudders to pull the prop shafts, we can rotate the rudders up in seconds. As for the shaft and prop layout, this was all done by a combination of the Schionning designers and the Brunton's designers (our prop company) working together. So, all angles, clearance to the hull and rudders, size of props, etc. were all taken into account. We're just doing the grunt work.
Aren't you afraid of condensation in those closed compartments and how that could affect the wood in the motor mounts? I didn't notice you sealing the wood before completing the compartments.
We didn't show that, but we epoxy sealed the wood inside.
@@SailingSVLynx Ok, I understand. And as you say, you can always add an inspection hatch later.
Any need for a drain channel under the floor section in case water somehow gets into those sections? Otherwise, there is no way out. This, of course, would be parallel to the hull at the lowest point, maybe a perforated off pipe..
I asked about that, just two days ago in a meeting with Schionning. Most of this bilge area is completely sealed as part of the positive buoyance of this boat, therefore, we don't need to connect the sections. Places like the engine bay will have dedicated bilge pumps. Some areas, like under the shower, will have a shelf above the flotation area, with its own pump. Other areas down below become part of the black and gray water tanks. So, not much need to drain these sections as most are completely sealed up for flotation or water tanks.
What kind of wood do you use, cedar? Hard wood? Thank you
Western Red Cedar.