I just came across this while looking for resources for my COVID-bound percussion methods class. Props for working to dispel the "mystery knob", um, mystery. I will take issue with one or two things, my $00.02. The brake caliper should only be used to keep the pedal from being too easy to accidentally move, not to balance the head. If the head won't balance, other issues should be looked at. These drums have a certain vulnerability to the mechanism: the rod running through the pedal casting can easily be bent by careless handling. That makes it too short, and the pedal requires too much spring tension to allow it to hold the lowest pitches. Fixable but not for the faint-hearted.
Hi Neil, Thank you for your comment. I will see if I get the gist. I agree that the horizontal pull rod on Ludwig Timpani are susceptible to damage, in fact I used to make a thing to protect it, however I am in the business of fixing drums, so these parts are repaired if possible or replaced. This aside, brake calliper function and adjustment is the second part of a process; the spring is used to hold or balance the head tension and it makes everything a lot easier if the brake is released. Once the hi range head tension can be held by the spring, the brake is introduced to stop pedal creep at the low end. Most of the drums I look at have the spring incorrectly set with the brake incredibly tight. My deduction is that this occurs when the spring is continually adjusted on the fly to presumably accommodate head stretch with the brake not released. I hope this helps Paul
Usually there is no "modifying" needed to fit a brake calliper to the pedal mechanism because the base castings are pre-drilled. The callipers themselves are available as a spare part. However if the casting is not drilled then there will be difficulties in positioning and I would advise seeking expert advice - many times I have had to re-position incorrectly fitted callipers. Even if they are positioned correctly often the calliper, base casting or both need to be modified.
Great video, incredibly useful information - especially when students love to fiddle with that mushroom wheel thinking they are helping! Do you have any info on how to modify the pedal to include a brake caliper?
Hi. The reason why I say to loosen both the brake calliper and the mushroom knob is because they will have been set for the old head and will be incorrect for the elasticity of a new head, therefore it is best to start from beginning. Furthermore with the mushroom knob loose there is no need to wedge the pedal toe upwards to hold low note position. However, do not loosen the mushroom knob too far, the rod has a very fine thread which can strip out of the toggle casting if there is insufficient length in use - push the heel down on the pedal to relieve tension. Between each circuit around the drum raising the head tension, I work the pedal to ensure the head is seated correctly checking it against my concentricity marks. It is not necessary for the balance spring to be set to see if the drum goes up to pitch - this is the whole reason for loosening them, just use your foot. Once the high note is achieved, re-tension the balance spring using the mushroom knob until the pedal, toe down, holds the note - i.e. the system is now in balance. unnecessary and reduces feel when changing pitch. I
This went a bit funny whilst typing the reply so here is the end! The brake calliper introduces friction into the system which is used to stop the pedal creeping when playing at the bottom of the range. At the low end, the tension in the system is a lot lower, so the calliper is an effective method to compensate for the difference between the spring rates. It is often used to help the pedal hold the high note, at which it is far les effective. However if the drums are set up correctly this is unnecessary and reduces feel when changing pitch. I hope this clarifies things. Regards Paul Jefferies
Hi Mike. This is a heel toe action like a see-saw on a slope, so the pedal is never in the down position, the toe goes down, the heel goes down. Because I don't know the problem I'm afraid I can't answer the question. Spend more of your time to properly describe the problem in order to save the much longer time investment that I have to make anyway in writing the answer! Paul
@@orchperc Just coming in to say I found this video trying to find timpani pedal info and this simple comment may have just saved my high school timpani set. Mine were all locked into the highest pitch as well ("stuck toe-down") and now I feel I can solve the problem. Thank you!
Paul! You just saved my timpano's life. I wish I'd seen this video years ago. Thanks a ton!
Thanks so much for sharing! I will sharing it with my students!
Thank Andro for your comments,
This is an old video, now I am indeed trying to make shorter videos!
Paul
I just came across this while looking for resources for my COVID-bound percussion methods class. Props for working to dispel the "mystery knob", um, mystery. I will take issue with one or two things, my $00.02. The brake caliper should only be used to keep the pedal from being too easy to accidentally move, not to balance the head. If the head won't balance, other issues should be looked at. These drums have a certain vulnerability to the mechanism: the rod running through the pedal casting can easily be bent by careless handling. That makes it too short, and the pedal requires too much spring tension to allow it to hold the lowest pitches. Fixable but not for the faint-hearted.
Hi Neil,
Thank you for your comment. I will see if I get the gist.
I agree that the horizontal pull rod on Ludwig Timpani are susceptible to damage, in fact I used to make a thing to protect it, however I am in the business of fixing drums, so these parts are repaired if possible or replaced. This aside, brake calliper function and adjustment is the second part of a process; the spring is used to hold or balance the head tension and it makes everything a lot easier if the brake is released. Once the hi range head tension can be held by the spring, the brake is introduced to stop pedal creep at the low end.
Most of the drums I look at have the spring incorrectly set with the brake incredibly tight. My deduction is that this occurs when the spring is continually adjusted on the fly to presumably accommodate head stretch with the brake not released.
I hope this helps
Paul
Usually there is no "modifying" needed to fit a brake calliper to the pedal mechanism because the base castings are pre-drilled. The callipers themselves are available as a spare part.
However if the casting is not drilled then there will be difficulties in positioning and I would advise seeking expert advice - many times I have had to re-position incorrectly fitted callipers. Even if they are positioned correctly often the calliper, base casting or both need to be modified.
Great video, incredibly useful information - especially when students love to fiddle with that mushroom wheel thinking they are helping!
Do you have any info on how to modify the pedal to include a brake caliper?
Very well spoken.
If you loosen both the caliper and the “mushroom” knob, how do you then match the head to a pitch? Won’t the pedal be inoperable at that point?
Hi. The reason why I say to loosen both the brake calliper and the mushroom knob is because they will have been set for the old head and will be incorrect for the elasticity of a new head, therefore it is best to start from beginning. Furthermore with the mushroom knob loose there is no need to wedge the pedal toe upwards to hold low note position. However, do not loosen the mushroom knob too far, the rod has a very fine thread which can strip out of the toggle casting if there is insufficient length in use - push the heel down on the pedal to relieve tension.
Between each circuit around the drum raising the head tension, I work the pedal to ensure the head is seated correctly checking it against my concentricity marks. It is not necessary for the balance spring to be set to see if the drum goes up to pitch - this is the whole reason for loosening them, just use your foot. Once the high note is achieved, re-tension the balance spring using the mushroom knob until the pedal, toe down, holds the note - i.e. the system is now in balance.
unnecessary and reduces feel when changing pitch.
I
This went a bit funny whilst typing the reply so here is the end!
The brake calliper introduces friction into the system which is used to stop the pedal creeping when playing at the bottom of the range. At the low end, the tension in the system is a lot lower, so the calliper is an effective method to compensate for the difference between the spring rates. It is often used to help the pedal hold the high note, at which it is far les effective. However if the drums are set up correctly this is unnecessary and reduces feel when changing pitch.
I hope this clarifies things.
Regards Paul Jefferies
Thanks so much!
paul i have a set i havent seen in years and the pedal is staying down whats the first thing to do... thanks
Hi Mike.
This is a heel toe action like a see-saw on a slope, so the pedal is never in the down position, the toe goes down, the heel goes down. Because I don't know the problem I'm afraid I can't answer the question. Spend more of your time to properly describe the problem in order to save the much longer time investment that I have to make anyway in writing the answer!
Paul
Range for each drum- low and high register?? thanks for video
parandungi Dts
Low 32" from low C
Hi 32" up to C
29" F and up
26" up to F
23" up to wherever you need.
Range varies on set up, typically a 5th.
its stuck toe. down
Balance spring is way too tight
@@orchperc Just coming in to say I found this video trying to find timpani pedal info and this simple comment may have just saved my high school timpani set. Mine were all locked into the highest pitch as well ("stuck toe-down") and now I feel I can solve the problem. Thank you!
@@darkladytaelyn Thank you Sera for your kind words