WHY is no one TALKING about these Tools?
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- čas přidán 9. 11. 2022
- #bushcraft #bushcraftgear #edcgear
HUCKBERRY LINK
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Uberleben Tindar Wick~ amzn.to/3G2L7IL
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Ichiban Kisi Saw~ amzn.to/3UN1ihP
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They used something similar in the old days, with a rope impregnated with saltpeter. They were called slow matches and were adapted from the cord used to fire old matchlock rifles. Ray Mears did an interesting piece about them, and had one reproduced from a museum piece found in Australia.
Oh 😮that is cool!
But, if you had a saltpeter version with the metal tube it would burn up extremely quickly instead of extinguishing it.
I made slowmatch with quite a lot of saltpeter myself and 5 inches burned in less than 15sec.
@@gideonstactical uberleben products are the absolute best
Love ray mears...great videos/books,documentaries
Ofcourse they used something like that back in the day..
Most stuff has already been invented and forgotten, only to be re-invented..
I’ve made those little fire tubes with copper tubing and wax impregnated jute twine for years.
I finally bought one of those Überleben Tindår Wicks.
I have one in all my kits now. They are so much better than my homemade ones.
Makes a fine addition to any fire kit.
👍🏼👍🏼
SMOOTH AS BUTTER - keep it coming my man
Hi Gideon. Thank you for a great video. Just a bit of background information, the fire tube is actually pretty old. One of these was used by an artist called Steven King who accompanied an early Australian explorer named John McDougall Stuart who charted a path from the South to the North of central Australia. Stuart lived from 1815 to 1866. King's device had a flint and steel attached and his wick was impregnated with saltpetre. His device is on display at the John McDougall Stuart display at a museum in Adelaide. Ray Mears showed this in one of his Australian Outback series and even showed a homemade version he made himself. Thanks again, keep up the great videos.
The Silky is a pruning saw, designed to cut branches and stalks that you are reaching for, such as overhead branches or stalks at the base of a thick, overgrown bush. As such it is designed to cut ONLY on the pull stroke, which maximizes your power in those circumstances. If used properly, there is no need for a thicker blade. *You can't break it if you are cutting only on the pull stroke.* But many folks have muscle memory with saws and want to cut on both the pull and push strokes, like they learned to do with Dad's old saw in the garage. If you compare the teeth, you will see that the Silky teeth are angled back toward you, whereas the Bahco teeth are more straight up and down, like Dad's old saw. So the Bahco seems to be designed to cut on both the push and the pull strokes. But the Silky teeth are much larger and far more aggressive. Meaning that *if you use it correctly*, cutting is far more efficient than with the Bahco. And, you only need a thin blade which weighs less than a thicker blade, which is probably why the hiking and bushcraft communities love it. The Ichiban teeth also seem to be angled back like the Silky, but I don't own an Ichiban, so here is where we the viewers need to depend on you the reviewer. Perhaps the Ichiban teeth are at an angle just as steep as the Silky but Ichiban has compensated for our muscle memory with a thicker blade? (Note that's not a bad thing, but just acknowledge that it will weigh more and will require you to do more work because if the blade is twice as thick, you would have to remove twice as much material as you would with the Silky to make the same cut.) Or perhaps the angle is less steep than the Silky? Possibly for the same muscle memory reason? Anyway, if you are going to use a Silky you need to position/orient yourself relative to the wood so that you are not up "over" the wood, like it was on a saw horse, but instead have the wood more at arm's length, such as it would be if you were reaching overhead, or reaching out in front of you, or even reaching slightly behind you (think plumber's vice). If you broke your Silky it was from trying to cut on the push stroke, aka, user error. Again, you can't break it if you are only cutting on the pull stroke, which is how it was designed to be used in the first place.
I fully agree!
As an Arborist, Silkey is King 👑
Owning everything from the fixed blade hand saws, folding Pocketboy right up to the full size XL Katanaboy.
However, as with any good tool if you don't use it properly they won't work.
ie. Pushing on a pull saw, as shown in this video.
They are also japanese style saws in general i think. Most japanese saws are pull cut. Its same with their woodworking saws
It's funny that you described some hatchets being as dull as butter knives and then describe the council tool pack ax to cut through wood like butter which is literally what a butter knife does! Ha!
Hahah that’s true
Thanks Aaron; the fire wick is a permanent part of my fire kit. Have the Ulberleben, but have made several of my own using copper tubing and jute cord soaked in candle wax. These are best for lighting twig and alcohol stove as your fingers are farther from the flame. Also check out some of the expandable pocket bellows as they keep your face further from the flame and smoke.
I bought a small, metal telescoping back scratcher from a 'Cheapy Store' (we have them all over NYC. lol). Well it turns out if you slip off the rubber handle and extend it, the little back scratcher becomes an excellent bellows long enough that you are safely away from the fire AND the small scratching end allows you to manipulate the wood, twigs, coals etc to stoke the fire.
Then you slip the rubber handle back on so the area where you put your mouth is covered. It cost $1 and has held up for years. It's roughly the same size as the pocket bellows you buy for much more money.
Always carry my Council Tool Woodscraft axe. It’s a little shorter handle and has a more pronounced bearded style head. I can choke up on the handle to do finer carving, this puts your hand in center line with the cutting edge. It also came quite sharp out of the box, but still had room for improvement. Mine will now split a frog hair four ways without bending it.
If you look around online for shepherd's lighter / sailor's lighter / trench lighter / rope lighter, you'll find lighters that are basically the tinder wick with a striker wheel mounted on it.
There's something I've been using for years that has never failed me that most survivalist guys don't seem to know about,for around 5 bucks you can but a 5 pack of these plastic devices that contain flint and a little wheel you flick with your thumb which ignites butane as you hold the button down,get this one of them can fit in your pocket and light probably hundreds of fires per device,they can be found anywhere for cheap and they call it a cigarette lighter
Holy Sh*t, are you Merlin??????? 😂😂😂😂😂. BIC…king of bushcraft!
We know of it myself I carry a zippo, also kings instead of BIC for disposable lighters. Also flint and steel just because it is cool, was thinking of an ember box but haven't got one yet
@a smith Let’s see….BIC….Bushcrafter’s Invaluable Companion!
Bic gets wet is no good till it's dry again.
I always carry a bic because when conditions are mild, they're really convenient. Add wind and they quickly become useless. You have to completely dry them out if they get wet before they begin working again. Leave them somewhere cold and they become difficult. That's why I also carry my own home made recipe fire tinder chord which works in every one of these conditions with a ferro rod. It also works with an empty lighter that still sparks. I also keep a fresnel lens in my wallet which can be a fun way to light a cigarette when someone doesn't have a lighter. Storm matches can be a nice thing to have in poor conditions and I have a few in most of my kits. Bic lighters always seem to fail when you need them most so have at least one other way to make flame when you know you're going outdoors.
My Four Tools Is A Survival Kit, Fire Starter Kit, First Aid Kit, And Personal Care Kit.
First off, to each his own! I prefer my 16" Estwing camp axe because it does everything I need it to do, is compact and I will never break that handle, and all tools need sharpened sooner or later! My corona folding saw does the same at a very reasonable price. I guess I'm old fashioned because the few times that I felt that I needed to make a feather stick I used my pocket knife. What's the best pocket knife? The one in my pocket, usually cold steel. I know that you're trying to sell products but calling a length of waxed jute the easier way to start a fire is really stretching it since I saw the disposable lighter in your kit. Have you ever used a tea candle or waxed cotton ball or even a road flare? All of these work great, and the jute (unlike the lighter, road flare, flint and steel or even match) doesn't actually start a fire, it only transfers fire from the ignition source to the fuel!
Very valid points. Difficult to beat an Estwing !!!
I have the Brisa Hiker both in flat and scandi grind. Great knives and great sheaths. I like the dangler option when I carry a backpack. That Überleben fire wick I have seen before but not yet added it to my kit, but I will soon.
Ok thanks I like my Corona saw
Council Tools Camp Carver is my new favorite, LOVE that thing!
Great video brother! I had not seen that Firestarter rope before. I will definitely be adding them to our family kits! Also I love Council Tool axes! I have several and they have all been great and made in the USA, can't go wrong! Keep it up man!👍🇺🇲
Yeah some form of fire wand is very nice, especially when using a fire rod. The combination give you the equivalent of a match when trying to start some stubborn tinder. I hear people say just use a cheap candle all the time except in the SW a candle turns into a puddle during the summer time and you won't have it when needed.
For the weight [and size] I see one as a perfect pairing to a ferro rod.
Also the kalahari bushman axe is a tool that many don’t seem to know of. It’s a friction fit head that you can use as a tomahawk, adze, or ulu if you take the head off. It’s quite a simple and versatile tool.
I’ve found it quite interesting how people adapt to their surroundings in the best way possible to thrive, never mind survive. What makes sense in one region may not make any sense in another, and those who consider themselves superior to others due to perceived advancement are missing the point: a “stone age “ fellow will adapt much easier to our modern life than we would to his “primitive “ life. The marvels of ancient civilizations worldwide are what they are because they could be AFFORDED, and the truly civilized man is thoroughly primitive as well.
An ancient Greek could put together a salad of wild greens; many modern Greeks have no clue.
I pulled the head off a Cold Steel Trail Hawk and use it just like that - fit a haft if needed in the woods, use it as an Ulu or even a drawknife.
Überleben is the german word for survival. Greetings from Germany.
Special hand axe and them other choices look great 👍
Thanks
Check out the Bahco Laplander saw and knife combo. The knife is basically a Mora branded as a Bahco Laplander that come with the saw.
Well I am a tool guy. I’ve had my Gransfors Bruk Small forest axe that has never let me down. I dare say I was impressed with the incredible clean, smooth cut. I’ve seen reviews and complaints of rolling. But Once again I have to see myself and purchased. One. 😁
The uberleben I've been using for years, I found it when my son was in cub scouts, it came up on a Amazon suggestion. I swear it makes using using a fero rod so much easier. Helped give confidence to my son when teaching him to make fire. I have one of these in each of my emergency and travel kits. Great product.
Awesome!!!
I saw the fire cord thing about a year ago and decided to make my own. I already had some Asian jute rope on hand, but it is pretty easy to twist garden jute cord into a 2 foot rope once you know the trick. Soak the rope in some hot wax (beeswax and/or paraffin), maybe with something to make it work better in the winter or light quicker, such as a little turpentine and/or a VERY small amount of potassium nitrate (root killer). A large amount of root killer means you need a fire bucket to put it out - by throwing it in the bucket of water. I used some old aluminum tent pole tubing for the holder, but one of those tent pole repair kits should also have the tubing you need.
I can't believe your just finding the fire rope they are amazing I keep them in my emergency fire kit and in all my fire kits and get home bag . When it's wet out they are my go too .
I bought a cheap folding pruning saw about 25 years ago...maybe $12 - $15.. it is still going strong. You dont need to spend lots of money on such things.
for the first one, imagine the tube isn't alu but is ferro rod......that'd be a good compact combo there. and for those who don't know, ferro rod as a whole piece take 10+ mins sitting inside camp fire to light up.
The council tool ax has been my go to for years.
I made my own analogs to the Uberleben match with some scrap aluminum tubing and leather on one end for your fingers. I also love the Ichiban Samurai - amazing value and the sharpener is made specifically for it.
Thank you for the heads up on that Samurai saw. I was about to buy a gomboy but couldn’t pass up the better deal on the Samurai
Well, all these gear items are excellent. Thanks for the video Aaron.
That firestarter is so neat. I need one.
Thank you for this video. I especially appreciate the information about the saws.
For me, an axe or hatchet is a tool I will use only when there is no way to do with a saw what must be done, especially in the woods.
Again, thank you for this video.
Okay, the Brisa knife looks good, but I can buy two, maybe three Mora Heavy Duty Companion knives for that price. But thats just me. You do a good job with your video's.
Thanks James , appreciate the point of you. Yeah value point Mora still wins. But it’s a good alternative for those who don’t like moras or just want to try something different.
I have a folding saw that I use for gardening and camping both. I think it’s a Friskar or something… just a box box store folding saw. It’s lasted me many m any years. For knives, I have an inexpensive Mora and two Opinel carbon steel knives. My backup fire starting tool is a magnesium rod and striker tool that my dad got me decades ago and a piece of flint (knives are carbon steel). As a woman, I always have a tampon and lip balm, so no problem! 😂
I really value this review video and thank you 🙏🏼. I have one silky and I’m not a fanboy but it’s obviously capable but I’m going to get the ichiban as a backup because now I fear breaking my blade. I’m also interested in the Barissa knife. Council Tool pack axe, what can I say, there are more expensive axes but CT is just meat and potatoes and I would love to get one. Financially strapped so I doubt I’ll be getting anything at all but I can dream 😴
Nice stuff. Thanks for showing us and take care.
I run a council tool boys axe and it's amazing doesnt come with a mask but I do Leather work so easy fix. My gavorite it the Husqvarna woodcraft axe i have made so muchbstuff using that axe. It made by hults bruks
AXES
That does look like a good pack axe, and I'll definitely check it out. I have been disappointed by Estwing, because the cutting edge on their similar sized Camper model is too thin. My current favorite axe is the Condor Woodworker model. My major co.plaint (and it really is NOT a problem but more a feature) is the round handle. It is also a bit large a diameter for my short stubby hands, but a bit of draw knife (used one of my machetes since my draw knife is packed somewhere), some rasp and sandpaper shaping for a flatter profile I prefer, and it is great. Many knives and machetes come with larger grips to allow for customizing to ihe user's grip. I assumed that was the reason for the large round haft on the Condor Woodworkers axe as well.
SAWS
People break Silky saws because they are so reflex-driven to "cut on the push" stroke. THAT BREAKS SILKY SAW BLADES.
Silky saw blades are designed to "cut on the pull" stroke. Bear down a bit on the pull (and NOT the push) and you will seldom if ever break a blade. You will also beat most other saws for cutting time and efficiency.
Also, flexing the blade sideways is not good for ANY saw on any stroke. Good way to break any blade. I have had many saws, especially larger carpenter's saws, flex on me without breaking. When that blade bowed I still hit an "OH S#IT" moment. I was a finish carpenter doing a lot of remodeling when I was younger, so I had a few of those.
Broken saw blades are not necessarily a tragedy. One of the best camp knives I ever owned was made from an old saw blade. With a 4" simple handle to tip straight drop blade and a couple of antler slabs for a handle, it was a fantastic neck knife and did anything a smaller knife should do.
Of course NO SINGLE KNIFE will do everything needed in the backcountry. Smaller blades (4" to 5" +/- a bit) will do most camp and general cutting chores, but they hit their limit when larger tasks are needed. I once read a statement that in North America a 14" machete will perform just about any task short of felling a sizeable tree. I whole heartedly agree with one caveat: "If the blade is stout enough, meaning thick enough and well tempered." Tromantina is a good brand of inexpensive machetes from Brazil, and I really like them. Their blades are fine for grass and vines, meaning the jungle, but they are too thin to attempt to cut anything harder. Even pine or cottonwood are beyond their capabilities. I have used their shorter models (10" Latin or Bolo blade) as a larger belt knife with considerable success. I carry a Condor 15" Bolo Machete on my pack, and it will do 85% or more the work of an axe. Again, I'm not talking felling large trees, but it works fine on up to 6" or so trunks. I prefer a good saw for any tree, though. Use the tool best suited for the task THAT REQUIRES THE LEAST EFFORT (meaning caloric expenditure. Axes just require more work.
Bushcraft has become a weekend campout hobby, but it's foundation was in primitive outdoor survival, which I believe ANYONE planning hikes into wilderness, or wishing to survive whatever gets thrown at us in the coming decades, should learn and practice PRIMITIVE SURVIVAL. Back in the late 1970s and early 1980s there was a "naked into the wilderness challenge". This was sort of the PhD dissertation for survivalists. Not many attempted it, because it meant EXACTLY what it said. Imagine being dropped off half way or better up a mountain in the snow literally naked and without a single tool. Your ride would not be back for 2 weeks (or longer if so agreed), and this was before cell phones, GPS, or satellite emergency beacons. You were on your own, and the cavalry would NOT be coming to the rescue. I never attempted it, but a few did. At least one took a camera and published an account of his experiences. When his ride showed up, he was waiting with serviceable fur-in moccasins, fur-in clothing, and several useful tools, all made during his stay. What do you think his first priority was as his ride drove away, standing naked in several inches of snow?
1) find a stick (tool) to strip bark from a pine tree and either Cambrian layer or vines for lashings, and fashion sandals to get his bare feet out of direct contact with the snow.
2) Find a good snow free spot and fashion a shelter to get out of the wind and possible new snow.
From there you follow what I call the Hierarchy of Survival: The list of what can kill you the fastest, and you address them in order of threat. Of course if you happen to find something further down the list, you don't pass it up! Shelter, including clothing, bedding, and protection from the environment and potential predators is highest on the list. A cutting tool, meaning flint knife in this case, and a digging/thrusting tool is next. Finding a dead dear or elk, it is difficult to harvest the hide and tendons without a cutting tool. And the list goes on. Read _Outdoor Survival Skills_ by Larry Dean Olson which is one of the first books of its kind, and written as the textbook of the Survival course he taught in the '70s at Brigham Young University in Utah. Then read _Paradise Below Zero_ by Calvin Rurstrum, then pretty much everything by Bradford Angier. This is old school survival literature from the 1950s. Don'tneglect Dave Canterbury, as he has many good points, too. I just prefer layimg a foundation from times past. If you can find them, i believe there was a series of books (or was it articles) titled _Naked into the Wilderness_ back in the 1980s or 1990s that are pure survivalist gold. When I say "survivalst" I am not talking of the image of a crazy person in a bunker with long term storage food stacked all around, which was made popular by the mainstream media in the early to mid 1990s. That image was the reason the term "survivalist" disappeared for a generation or so and the was reborn to a degree as "preppers" and even "bushcrafters".
Cool Video 👍
Thank U for the Info and the Links 👍
The bahco serves me well but that ichiban looks like a good alternative, maybe I give it a try. Thanks Aaron, keep up the good work 👍
So when those saw blades dull, can you replace just the blade, or get them sharpened? I use a simple Stanley Folding pocket saw, that uses 6 inch reciprocating saw blade. So you can always have a sharp blade. Plus blades for cutting metal or ceramic, even stone. Yes its only a six inch saw, but I've never needed anything longer.
Having used both a Silky and an Ichiban, I will say the Silky feels a bit faster, but I don't think it feels 50% faster. It does cost 50% more, though. I've yet to break a silky, but I'm still young!
Haha good feed back. I would agree, the silkys are maybe 20% faster
Dude I'm super stoked you finally got this ax!! I don't have this particular model I currently have the council tool Woodcraft Camp Carver which has the exact same grind and I absolutely love mine also cancel tool makes a full head leather sheath and carry system so you can carry it on your back if you want and give it enough time I think you'll find that this ex will do 99% of what a knife can do and I really really hope you do a standalone review this ax
Oh I will for sure it is so impressive
@@gideonstactical Would definitely love to see a stand alone review, as well as a comparison of this to the Hardcore Hammers Survivalist, which seems very similar in multiple ways.
Great video. I wish I could get these items here in South Africa.
Now you are talking!! I'm glad you discovered them!! 😁
Just goes to show that if you really want to process wood (esp. log size) forget your knife and get a good axe/hatchet and or a saw - beats batoning with a knife. The Council Tool has caught my eye - clearly some clever thinking has gone into it. As for the wick - KeroDry refers to a proprietary form of kerosene (which in the UK & Europe is often referred to as liquid paraffin). I make my own by heating up some wax and 'frying' hessian rope for a 1-2 seconds. As always, thanks for another informative vid.
That's true. A knife was never really meant to " process" wood.
Nice list of gear there Aaron thanks for the info. I actually intend on getting the Uberleben tinder wick with my next Amazon purchase. The axe, knife, and saw just might become future orders as well lol...
Now I may be wrong but I think Uberleben may have based the tinder wick on old-school sailors/trench lighters. They work in a similar fashion but all in one and with a striker wheel similar to a Zippo.
ATB and Happy Thanksgiving
Dude!!!! Yes, this is a rad video!! And thanks for the shout out!!!
💯 brother
Totally agree on silky saw … sure they cut fast but you have to be so careful I’ll take the Bahco every time…when I’m cold wet and hungry I just want to grab my tools and go to work without having to think about nuance of technique so I don’t break my tools.
I absolutely adore those Wood Craft Pack axes!!!
Right!!!!!
Less pressure on the push stroke for silky saws. They only cut on the pull, but man do they eat! I've never broke one, but I have worn out some teeth going hard in two-handed mode, but the gomboys are not designed for that. Lesson learned.
Great video keep them coming!
Thanks for a very good video. Up here in Canada these Council Tool Woodcraft Axes cost between $265 and $300 putting them in the price bracket of what some would call 'boutique axes'. When these Woodcraft Axes came onto the market they were about half of that price, considering they are not yet 10 years old I think that is too much of a price hike. For sure the thought put into the design of this axe is very good based on the need of an average bushcrafter/woodcrafter, but there has been a number of critical reviews that indicate quality assurance has been lacking, for example, uneven grinds on blade edge, less than perfect fitment of haft. At $265-$300 I think it is fair to expect the highest standards of fit and finish. I am not a newbie fanboy of the latest gizmo, I have learned about the history of many axes, refurbished, modified and used axes for over 50 years.
Here’s the plan. Take a vacation at the Outer Banks in North Carolina, while there, head over to the Council Tool factory, pick one up for substantially less than in Canada. (Maybe even a blem)
@@donalddicorcia2433 haha...nice holiday but the air fare would buy me an axe forge...LOL!!
Nice video. The saws are made by Samurai. The models are Ichiban and Kisi.
Thanks for the info!
I made my own years ago for my kit works good 👍
Like this collection! The fire starter is really a fire starting helper. And I could see it being a life saver! Windy or damp conditions. Even low light, it would easier to light and maneuver around. That’s now on my shopping list. The saw looks good. The folding one. The fixed blade is too big. The folder seems bigger than my bahco. But might be worth the space difference. Is there a weight difference, too? I may have to grab one for testing out. Silky I find disappointing for the very reason you mentioned. The just aren’t robust. For the haxchet, that looks like a perfect compromise. My next purchase is probably going to be a condor cloudburst. I’m guessing it’s 3-4” longer. I think it’s the same weight. Have to check on that detail. If compactness is king, this council would win. Now I’m torn on which to buy. The condor is less expensive. And, I’m a cheap mofo. Got to check out the little knife. I don’t think it has enough finger guard, but I think that handle material is good when wet. Id match that against any of moras heavy duty blades. My main blade is another condor. I’m cheap but I want good. I have a Bushlore. I’m thinking an aqua lore is a good choice because rain knows how to find me. Mini Bushlore is good for carving. Glad I found your channel. Other than causing me to second guess some upcoming purchases!!! 🤗
Condor makes good blades at reasonable prices. I used to sell camping gear, hiking,and survival gear, and Condor became one of my core lines. Their machetes are thicker and sturdier than many others, as are Kershaw. I carried a Condor 15" Bolo Machete on my pack for years, and it would replace an axe in most cases up to felling a smaller tree (6" to 8" trunk max). Saws are just more energy-efficient than axes in most cases. Of course an axe is usually better for larger work. Just use the right tool for the job at hand. In a true survival situation calories expended matter, since replacing those is often difficult. Finding and processing food in the wilderness is a major part of being able to survive long term.
AS FOR SILKY SAWS
These are fine if used properly. Go to the Survival Russia channel and watch some of Lars' older videos. He's from the Netherlands and living in Siberia. He uses Silky saws - small to largest - extensively and even on full size trees.
He also demonstrated using a Silky as the steel with flint to throw a spark into char (charred punk wood or charcloth) to make a fire. That means the blades are high carbon content, and I guessed an equivalent to 440C "stainless" steep... which has a higher carbon content (0.9% to 1.3%) than 1095 (0.95% - typically 0.9% to 1.0% from what I read on steel manufacturers' websites). Seeing is believing, so Silky have the added ability to make fire.
NOTE that I am NOT talking about a ferrocerium rod but a piece of flint rock. Old school fire making as in prior to the mid-1800s when matches were invented. That is a skill everyone needs to learn, and is an essential part of practicing primitive survival.
I have the Uberleben Tindar Wick, I can confirm that it works like a champ.
Glad to hear it!!
YEP!
I've heard Silky Saws have been breaking
don't need a fancy expensive saw...
I've been using a non-folding Pull-Saw Pruning saw for years
there wasn't all this bush-craft stuff when I started way back... late 1970's
we had basic non-folding pruning & bow saws, axes, machetes, & basic folding & hunting knives
nothing was called BUSH-CRAFT back then
there's some really neat stuff today but you shouldn't spend $,$$$
keep it simple!
Beyond brother I jus got released after 4mo and looking forward to catching up on all missed vids great job 👏
Tks for the info... .great tools
Go buy the hemp rope, what ever size you like, and make your own fire starter. I have a Nordland Axe made from 5160 high carbon tool steel. A very good axe.
I like the 95mm blades to be honest..feathersticking and bushcraft..smaller for me is better..3-3.5" blade with a full size handle..and lower grade steels that are tried and true 1075-12c27..are so easy to get sharp again especially in the field.. brisa makes excellent blades as do mora..the grinds are almost always spot on. Not so with OKC or condor or BRK lately
Simple steel's are better for serious woodsmen, imho.
New subscriber. Love the list. 👍🏻
Thanks.
Heard about the Ichyban (however yo I spell it) from the Wrangler guy.
Bought one.
LOVE IT!
Didn’t know about the folder.
Putting one in my Amazon cart after this lol. Thanks man. ✌🏻🙏🏻
(Oh and that starter wick thing is great too.)
Folding saws, got to be the Agawa Boreal 21. Blades cheap and can be bought in any hardware store, plus you can carry spares and what cuts better than a full size bowsaw. Love mine. No more folding saws for me.
Silky has folding saws and is used by most perfessional arborists around the world. My Silky Gomboy rungs rings around my Friskars. You must only use a pull stoke on Silky saw otherwise you will easily bend and crimp the saw. Also a curved saw should be rotated around the branch along with your hand as you cut and not used as a straight cut as you did in your video
I have that axe. Take some time and sand the handle down to 1500 grit. Boiled Linseed oil. Feels so much better.
Good idea!
I started out with corona saw. They are bullet proof. They have been made for arborist that use them all day everyday. I bought a council tool axe a few years ago cost me $56. But it's the Hudson bay cruiser. Or maybe they call it Hudson bay boys axe. Its a mid size axe.
I think everyone needs at least one really good pack hatchet!!! I've been using my condor Greenland hatchet now for a little over 3 years now and it's extremely awesome to carry and use... its small enough to pack yet large enough to most camp chores
Gonna have to try the saw. I've never used that brand. How did y'all break a blade twice? Got a couple other knives to buy before I get serious about that one , but I do like the lines on it. Tha ax, well, their phenomenal. Good looking out sir.
Silky saws are the number 1 handsaw for arborists in NewZealand.
As an arborist, I've used that brand for over 20 years, and I've broken the tips off probably about 3 to 4 times in that time,
That said I haven't broken one for at least 8 years, so I must have my technique down pat 😊
I believe these are all draw saws so you can avoid using so much force when pushing which is when the blade would tend to break and concentrate more on the pull.
@@instinctivearcher6146 that's true, and you can get more power from a pull stroke.
I think the times I've broken the tips , are when I've push the saw back into what I've been cutting after over pulling and the saw coming out of the branch, and when the tip gets forced back in the cut with a forward motion, ive, bent the tip and presto, broken tip.
@@daveyboy6985 the saws I have only cut on the pull, not the push
@@instinctivearcher6146 yes all silky's which I use are pull cuts.
A diy firewick might be doable for me! If all else fails, I now know which one to buy!
G'day Aaron, a cool tools vid is always gonna be a winner, somehow for someone, good stuff !!!
Cant beat the 'ol ferro rod IMO, but as an alternative or back up, looks to be a worthy option.
Like the axe, lotta folks attest to the value of Council Tools products, though pretty sure you can't get 'em here and probably one of those things that shipping would kill the value.
Mate, I can understand a standard Silky Gomboy breakage, (never happened to me,......yet anyway), but the thicker outback model is really surprising, ........ dont tell me you tried to baton a saw, lol.. Just proves once again you call it how you see it regardless of how popular an item might be. Cheers Duke.
That rope lighter was used by boy scouts in their early days. If you find some old boy scout manuals you might be able to find how they used to make them
I am a fanboy of Brisa
The Hiker 95 is excellent
Sharpen the edge to a true zero grind
A very comfortable knife
Bee's wax hemp rope or string works well also. Used a lot to light things you might smoke, since its safer than the butane lighter or paraffin wax etc.
Thanks for the tips on other decent saw's and your experience's between them.
For sure thanks for watching!!!
Enjoyed your video, thank you 👍🏻Is the color of your trucker jacket called "field tan"? Thanks again!
Hey Aaron, I have an odd request. Can you make some recommendations regarding gear for photography and videography in the outdoors? Essentially, what's a good, manageable setup to film and photograph things I do, places I explore, and gear I use in the outdoors? I'll say that in my environment, cold is not much of an issue, but humidity and salt are. I'm guessing there's a whole set of post-production considerations as well, but perhaps that's a whole other subject. Whatever you're able to recommend, I'd love to know about.
Great idea Charles! I may do that as a shorts series like the D2 steel series last week. But I will work on that. Thanks for the suggestion and merry Christmas.
@@gideonstactical Thanks, Aaron! Merry Christmas to you and the family!
Stellar products.👍
Love these vids I learn a ton
Glad you enjoyed it!!
An axe, a saw and a knife? Not exactly groundbreaking bushcraft.
I Like the fire wick I agree, while most people have fire steel they don't always have a ready source of spark capture.
How about ratchet secateur for small limbs rapid kindling processing, or a telescopic fire bellows to relight the fire from embers.
What about a large hot water bottle in your pack to capture all that fires heat and warm you at night.
What about the multiple uses if a good poncho?
Or a cold steel type speznaz spade/axe/throwing device?
You can make the tinder wick for less then 10 dollars and get about 3' long one
I don't use Tele gram
Yep
Wow a tool that holds a source of fire longer then a match. I wonder if there is an alternative out there.
GREAT VIDEO. WHATS THE O R cap your wearing? Thanks
Discontinued a few years ago 😭
Thanks for watching
I just bought a couple Council tool axes and couldn’t believe how thin the handles are compared to Gransfors, Hults, etc. They are ridiculously thin, I can’t even hang on to them.
That was beautiful.❤️🎹🤟
as much as i love silky saws, those things are so damn prone to breakage in you just slightly twist the saw while sawing.
Thanks, just ordered an Ichiban Samurai Saw today. I'm heeding your advice about how brittle the silky saws are. I have two, but I don't want to get stuck with no saw on a hike. Thanks for the video as well.
You're basing your entire purchasing/methods on a single guy? Silky takes technique and every time I see someone trash Silky for being brittle, it's because they don't know how to properly use it. Know your tool. Not that there's anything wrong with going with Ichiban or any other folding saw. Any of them do the job in most occasions
Yes, the Ichiban Saws are good value and work well, but still fail sometimes. BUT my observations of broken Silky saws indicate incorrect usage (trying to saw too fast, pushing what is a pull cut saw, allowing the blade to be pinched in the kerf). I am a carpenter who has just built a log house and my father, grandfather and great grandfather were master carpenters/journeymen.
Enjoyed your content, just subscribed. Thanks God Bless
Welcome to the GT family!
Who sells the hatchet that you reviewed? Thank you.
They should make the uberleben aluminum sleeve as a ferro rod. Just make sense to have 2 in 1. Not sure if there's a reason why they didn't but I'm not an engineer.
I still like my Kukri!
Most snapped Silky blades are the result of deficient technique, and not any fault of the product. With the correct (pull style) technique, it should be nearly impossible to snap a blade. People are generally using the same technique they became familiar with using the Laplander, or similar blades, with predictable results. Used correctly, a Silky generally outpaces a Laplander, and will last for years and more with no incidents. It all comes down to the return (push) stroke - this should be very light, and slower, as its task is merely to clear the kerf of sawdust, NOT cut. After all, one is seldom in a race to finish a cut anyway. Another cause of blade failure is when users use a Silky like a carpenter's saw. In other words they position their bodies above the object being sawn, and tend to push down. With a pull-style saw it's useful to have the work positioned higher so that one is almost forced to pull horizontally towards you, then lightly return the blade for the next pull cut. It's a typical skill used by professional arborists in their work, and it DOES require some new skills, and exercise and practice. Failure to do this can easily lead to blade failure.
I hope this clarifies the issue for some viewers who might be wondering.
Nice list 👍
I really like that axe and will pick one up after Christmas. I saw that fire wick thing a year or two ago and simply made my own using copper tubing and paraffin soaked 3/8” cotton rope, I thought the thinner waxed jute rope burned too quick.
Jute twine is super cheap, just submerge in some melted wax and boom, good to go, takes a spark easily when fluffed up a bit
thanks...