Learn How to Electroplate Golf Clubs at Home! - DIY Golf Club Restoration
Vložit
- čas přidán 26. 02. 2021
- Learn the basics of electroplating and restore your golf clubs with this easy-to-follow tutorial. Get the perfect finish for your collection!
I'll show you how to make a homemade plating tank using inexpensive parts you may already have around the house. Then, I'll test it out on a Mizuno MP-32 with Caswell's Bright Nickel Plating Crystals, which looks JUST LIKE CHROME. The results were VERY impressive for my first test run. If you're looking for chrome plating at home, this is a great option for DIY.
Do this at home! Follow the equipment links below to help support the channel.
*******************************************
**************EQUIPMENT**************
www.amazon.com/shop/bradmeehan
*******************************************
*******************************************
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
You'll see I didn't remove the paint fill because I'm impatient and was anxious to try it, but you should really remove it first using acetone to avoid contaminating your solution. The nickel won't plate into paint, chrome, oils, dirt, etc. so you'll have to be sure to electro-clean like I showed in the Copper Plating video.
The club was polished using the steps I've shared in other videos, then electro-cleaned and brushed with nickel strike before going in the tank.
I played around with the power requirements to get it right. I started with 4.5 volts and 1 amp, but ended up with 3.5 volts and .5 amp for a longer period of time. "Slow and Low" for best results. - Zábava
I cannot believe it took me this long to come accross your channel bud. My gosh how much time you could have saved me if i only knew and watched you from the start a few years back
Thank you!
So glad I found your channel! Thank you for doing everything on the cheap and your explanations are so much fun! I’m looking forward to watching many many many many more of your videos and hopefully trying out your techniques.
This really is a game changer. I haven't looked yet but I hope you put the clubs back together so we can see a finished product.
Best plating DIY video! Loved how you kept it simple, but highly informative. Keep up the great videos.
Thank you for watching
It turned incredable, thanks for sharing it!
I love watching your videos, I'm a actually starting my new job as a club fitter, so exciting!!!. Your videos are actually helping me learn alot about the craft.
I have so Mizuno MP14's, I got them cheap in a goodwill, some were not in great condition. I'm missing the 7 and 9 iron but their amazing to hit. The problem is the groves, they seem like they were grinded down with a dremel. Can this be be fixed with copper? Make a video on this, please! Thank you for the videos, keep them coming.
"for my homies" LMAO! between that and your framed photo of Eric Estrada on the mini fridge, I like your sense of humor
Framed and SIGNED photo of Eric Estrada! Thank you!
The coolest people in the comments
Just found this channel I love this video I am going crazy buying old sets and this is perfect for me.
Quick question if I sent you clubs could you do a video and charge me instead of me screwing things up. This could be a lucrative business users sending clubs in to be refinished. I have a set of mp64's I would like done. I also have mp54's depending on if you do and price maybe I send you both sets. Either way love your channel and will watch all content you put out.
This is great! Been wanting to try this out for a while
love this shi!!!!!!!! Definitely inspired myself!!! Would be curious to see some different finishes with golf shafts, a nickel plated golf shaft with matching head would be bada$$$
This is the channel I’ve been looking for.
Awesome. Thank you.
Same!!
Ditto and bravo!
Btw, hope things are going ok with your Mom.
Yessir
Agreed
Thank you from Iran. ❤
Your videos are always fantastic! Thank you
Thanks, I'm working on a new project now! Can't wait to share it with you.
Great job on your video, by the way. Thank you!
Your videos are so addicting!! I stumbled on them this morning working 12 hours. I have watched a few now and they aree interesting!! I think most golfers like good looking clean clubs!! I subbed your channel too!!
Thanks! I'm glad you found the channel. Happy to help and you work through your projects.
I watch your beautiful video more than 5 times, and I enjoyed every time.
Great job, really great job from a wonderful man.
Thanks bro.
I wish you do it with chrome once time on another beautiful chromic thing.
I like it.
I searched lot and didn't find a Applicable video
But It was so simple and so professional also.
I've been looking for it a lot.
❤❤❤❤ Thanks man
Love u from Iran.
Ya thats probably the best set up i have seen yet cheers bro for posting i couldnt get nickel in large enough size guitar strings are nickel wound but went with nickel welding rods think they are 50% nickel so not as shiny but did the job and not rusting...
That's great. I'm glad you gave it a try.
Don't even know where to begin with the compliments or questions, so many of both, awesome stuff. Anyway I recently found a set of Fila F-02's that i crushed on back in early 90's in really good shape except some of the finish has peeled a bit on three irons at the bottom of the faces and I wanted to to try electro plating but not sure where to start. Do you have to blast the clubs before plating? Also what would you do for a cavity back iron to keep the plating out. Anyway way thanks for taking the time, awesome
Awesome videos brother. I found it easy to understand & follow your instructions. However, i read your description & you stated you used "nickle strike" before you submerged the part in the Nickle Bright Solution. I don't recall seeing you demonstrate using that procedure. Do you think you could do a quick video on that? Once again, awesome videos & tutorials. Thank you & Go! Pack! Go!
Hey , really like the video and I found it very informative. The only thing I can't find out is whether or not nickel plating in this small a size gives off harmful fumes or not. I can't find a straight answer any where on google
Amazing, thanks!👍🏻
Thanks Brad.
Thanks. I was having a hard time sourcing the nickel locally. Didn’t even think of Amazon.
Check out Caswell Plating too.
Great stuff. Easy to understand.
It'd work great for skidmarks on the back of a 5 iron.
Superb work
Thank you!
Great videos! May I ask, does this plating hold up against regular play as well as the factory plating?
Thanks for the lesson…about ready to plate some wood tools!
Cool. Let me know how it goes. Practice on something first and know that if you screw up, you can redo it.
Thanks so much for the video. so, i want to order the same kit as you got. please, tell me what to order. Juan
Do you need to use the wand and nickel activator before putting the clean clubhead into the bath? I see on here you didnt do that but on that beautiful vokey video you did brush the head woth nickel activator. Thanks brad!
best vid on youtube , cheers
Thanks Brad, your videos are great! I'm learning so much and may incorporate this into my golf club hobby builds. Some of my family and friends have golf clubs they don't want to part with, but are looking quite beat up at this point!!
In regards to this video, can you not do more than one at a time or did you only do this one golf iron for the purpose of simplifying how to do this? Thanks.
I do one at a time so I can tackle it in an assembly line way - meaning, I can plate a club while i'm sanding/polishing the next. They start to corrode if the bare steel is left sitting. Also, the size of the anode needs to be about twice the surface area of the item that you're plating. These little anodes aren't big enough to handle more. If you have a bigger setup, you can do multiple. Also, I'm lazy and a mega-procrastinator.
where did you buy the chrome plating kit from? Everything from Caswell?
can't beat that with a stick.... good job..
Thank you
Don’t just like , love it 😊👏
Thank you!
That is a great job.How long will the little pump last.
This is great, extremely helpful. I have a set of mp 32's that I'm working with as well. Can you do multiple heads at the same time with this process or does it have to be 1 at a time?
You can, but you'd need larger anodes and a bigger tank. It plates better when the distance to your part isn't too close to the anode, so real estate in the tank is prime. This DIY stuff is st most going to handle two at a time.
I wonder if this would work with plastic, like for model kits? Trying to find a good chrome that is durable for plastic is really tough ... or very expensive. Great video. Thanks...
Impressive!
What kind of power supply do you need for doing your plating - VDC and Amps? I have a set of Maxfli TM-92 Australian Blades that I have been playing for 20 years and I love them but they have gotten little dings and dents all over them from clanking around in the bag over the years and I would like to restore them to like new again and am doing some research.
Wow nice work , from tweed heads Australia 👌
What are you using for a power supply? Or did I miss something?
Hi Brad ! Great videos man, Love all of em. Was wondering how many times you could use the nickel plating solution before have to replace it ?
Indefinitely if you keep it clean. The nickel anodes continually feed the solution. The nickel that doesn't stick to the club remains in the liquid. That said, you will have to replace the nickel anodes as they are being eaten as you plate. Hope that makes sense.
@@BradMeehan Makes sense yeh. This might sound dumb but essentially, why would you wanna plate the club head ? couldn't you leave it as is after simply polishing ? Thanks a lot for the knowledge
Bro this is such amazing knowledge your sharing thank you. I sell golf clubs on eBay and this will allow me to give customers a better product and possibly make more money 🙏
Thank you. I'm glad it helped!
I was thinking of buying two identical clubs then just cleaning one, and fully restoring the other to see the difference in selling price on eBay. I'd bet 5X at least.
Fantastic,I have some old Ping Zings. I’ll give it a shot,lol
You may not have to plate those. You can probably just polish them to like-new condition
@@BradMeehan ok. I’m going to by a grinding wheel… I’ll polish first. I do want to try some plating though. You do beautiful work. Thanks Brad.
Good video sir thank you, how to electroplate nikle and copper coating on aluminium.
I haven't done it buy here is a link to more information
www.finishing.com/80/41.shtml
Hi Brad, thanks for the vids... I say vids instead of videos because I simply do not have the time to type the extra I O :).... I am wondering if it's possible to do a batch plating all at once? Grind, sand, polish, etc, to an 8 -10 club batch of irons, then put all of the heads in to the solution you made up in the video? Thank you.
Yes, but here's the catch: your anodes need to be about twice the surface area of the item you're plating, so you'd need a pretty hefty sized nickel anode to keep up with plating onto the club heads. I do more of an assembly line where I have one in the plating tank while I'm polishing the next so there's no time for the club heads to start corroding again.
brother this is fuc@&n awesome!!!! i just learn how to change my own grips, ow i want to learn all this!!! how do you properly dispose of the liquids after you don’t need them?
You keep them. The nickel solution will last indefinitely. If the water in the solution evaporates, you're left with the crystals you started with.
Hey Brad I’m guessing if you go through the polishing process without the electroplating the clubs will corrode? This step is required or they will rust after polishing?
Brilliant 👍
Awesome Video, I've been wanting to chrome plate some 1/64th scale die cast cars........can you please tell me what kind of power supply your using?
He has a link in the description. Looks like he was using a switching variable benchtop power supply.
Great tutorial.
Thank you!
Great video. Could something similar be done to my Ping ISI nickel irons?
I don't think you'd have to plate them. You could likely get away with just the polishing steps.
What are you doing with all these clubs you refurbishing? Enjoying the content. I like the “how to”
Very cool.
Excellent video, thanks for taking the time to make it. Can I send you some clubs? Lol
I'm still learning!
So awesome!! Roughly, how long did you leave the iron heads in the solution?
Total, I'd say a 2 hours but I kept jacking with the voltages. The longer you leave it, the brighter and thicker it gets. I left the wedge in there for 4 hours on a lower voltage. "Slow and low" is the recommendation.
Nice prof
I have a set of McGregors that I want to nickelplate, can I just tape the face over if I want to keep the face non-plated?
Hey Brad! Thank you so much for these videos they're extremely informative! I had a question in regards to polishing: so I looked at the different colors of the buffing set and correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems like the ideal buff should start with white, then brown, then finish it off with green? Does that sound right? Also, when would you use black? Thanks so much!
Hi, Matt. It depends on the metal, I'm learning. The compound kit I bought has a chart that shows which color to use for each type of metal. Some start with black, brown then go onto white. Some finish with green, some blue, or some even red. The black is the most coarse so I only that when I have larger scratches. I use it on my sisal wheel (a very hard wheel me of straw-like material) or the stitched denim as the first cut, then brown or white. My opinion is if you can get away with something finer to start (like white), you don't have to spend time getting out scratches you introduced from a heavier compound. But if that isn't cutting, you can back into brown or black. I'm sure the pros would know better than I do, but they seem to turn out quite shiny!
Brad! for polishing... is a 550w 1/2hp and 3000rpm motor enough?
This is awesome. I'm going to follow these steps and see if I can't restore some life into older clubs that I have laying around - specifically some old wedges. I saw a comment response earlier where you said that you stop at Nickel because Chrome plating isn't DIY friendly. What makes that the case? The amount of power required, cost, safety? Thanks!
Also, what do you do with your waste?
Do you find that using an airstone with very fine fast moving bubbles work better or does an airstone that produces larger air bubbles work best? Also, do you put the airstone directly on the item you are plating or a distance from it so the solution is just circulating and moving?
I put it directly under it. I've only owned this one air stone, so I can't compare to something with larger bubbles.
Excellent. I've done some metal cleaning with electricity and accidentally put some copper onto cast iron. So I've plated before, but not properly. I'm also familiar with making power sources. Thanks for the tutorial. Question, is there any limit to how many clubheads we plate at once? Looks like 2 or 3 might hang in your tank, more if bigger. Any drawbacks to that?
The only limit is real estate in the tank and the size of your anodes. The rule of thumb is the anodes have to be twice the size of the surface area of the club. Then, you'll need to adjust your current to accout for the additional draw.
I'm still learning too, but this is what I've gathered at this point.
Also, I appreciate you taking the time to comment!
GREAT VIDEOS. Question. What is the power supply you are using in this video? Sorry if this has been asked before but I didnt see it .
Thank you. There's a link in the description to power supplies on Amazon of you can access it. I bought an inexpensive one that was maybe 50 dollars. It's a brand called TackLife, but the brand won't matter. I only chose it because of the price and had decent reviews, so you can pick any. You can also make your own with an old charger (if you're super cheap like me). I have a video on my channel on how to make one. But you'd be better off buying one.
Love this video! Maybe I missed it, but what's the voltage of your power supply?
3.5 volts, 1 - 1.5 amps is what I do in my little tank
Hi brad :)
I'm enjoying watching your video very much! Thanks!!
I'm planning on buying some things I need to try electro plating and I had a question.
If I buy nickel crystal solution and brightener that you used, how long can I use them?(or for how many clubs)
The solution will last forever. You will only have to add more distilled water. You will only have to replace the nickel anode after time because you are borrowing nickel from it to bond to the club. It may take months for it to be eaten away enough to replace. Just be sure to buy a big enough piece of nickel when you order the nickel crystals.
@@BradMeehan thank you so much for the recomment!!
Another great video which makes this look simple. Must try it. However, curious about the paint fill; the head seemed to emerge with perfect fill? Do you do the paint fill before dipping on the basis that the nicol won't attach to the paint? Would it not be better to plate the whole head and then paint fill?
You should clean it out but it won't bond to paint, chrome, or anything dirty.
Just lazy on my part and wanting to try it out. Acetone would remove the paint fill and would alleviate the risk of contaminating the nickel. Next video will be how to finish the face.
This video is what inspired me to have a go at nickel plating. I’ve literally just built the tank with aeration and a heater..I’m just waiting on my chemicals to have a go at this. Thank you 🙏🏼
Very cool. Hit me up with questions. I learned it all from CZcams videos and reading forums.
@@BradMeehan I’m having next to no success with it all. I’ve converted my white vinegar into nickel acetate, I have heat and circulation and two nickel plates on the positive and the bar across the top on the negative. I’ve set the voltage to 3 volts and tried at 4.5 and still nothing plates...my copper bubbles but just seems to barely get anything on it even after 45 minutes...what’s wrong??
@@brianhull5125 Is there chrome on the iron? Or you're still testing on a piece of copper?
@@BradMeehan I’ve tried with copper pipe and I’ve also tried with a stainless steel club head...I’ve even degreased and acid pickled the items too...I’m so confused
@@brianhull5125 any way to check the voltage across the anode to the bar? Hold positive lead on the anode, negative on the bar and see if you have 4 volts?
Perhaps a hook solution that goes into the hosel in order to not have the exterior of the heads touch the suspension? I was mildly concerned that the touching points might look slightly different from the rest of the head? Or get less build-up of nickel in those spots?
I completely agree. In hindsight, I would have made my tank a bit deeper so I could hang them from the hosel.
Pre-plating A golf club head. Best process to remove any old plating? Or is that even necessary?
When you strip a club head by reversing this method, would you then be able to use the cathode as an anode to put the chrome back on after smoothing out the club head?
Sorry I missed this. I don't think you can re-chrome like that. Caswell sells chrome plating kits, but it's expensive (to me) and there are safety concerns.
Look great, other clubs you have done look amazing like the TM TPs. That work made sense because you just grind em, buff em, play em and rinse and repeat if need be in 5 years. But can you play with these nickel plated very long before the nickel is destroyed? I don't think there is any real playability issue, only the nickel plating holding up. Or do you have some plans for chrome plating these? Have you tried this with putters?
Hi Mitch. Thank you.
I haven't been able to test the durability as I've just learned this process and haven't put them through the extremes yet. I don't have plans to chrome them just because I'm cheap and I want to learn new stuff, so DIY is the plan.
Caswell sells a Copy Chrome that has cobalt in it for durability, which I might try too. I like that it's quite easy to do once it's prepped, so I'm not against throwing it in the tank again if they wear again (which they will). That would make a good video: MP32s... one year later.
Hello Brad can you go thru all the items needed and a more in-depth video on how to make n get the correct supplies to make one to diy my clubs. Thank you. These are awesome dyi videos
For sure. This is on my list. In the mean time, there is a link in the description to all of the equipment i use in the videos.
OMG AND YOURE A PACKERS FAN!!?IM A SUBSCRIBER!!
Go Packers!
Greetings Brad, love your channel and thanks for making the video. What material did you use for the positive electrodes? I am thinking about doing this to my Ping cat eye set which is just plane dull stainless. What type of pre treatment would they need? Just an acid dip before plating to remove oxidation? Also need to remove any paint. Thanks again
For stainless, you won't have to do any of these steps. You can just sand and polish them as-is. If you want to make them matte like their original finish, you can spray it with your sand blaster to dull it down after polishing (unless you want it shiny)
@@BradMeehan awesome friend, and what did you use for the positive electrodes in the bath?
I got the nike slingshot, I just don't know about taking the clup head off and being able to put it !ack on. Its on the steal shaft. For now I want to polish it first. And see how it turns out. Also should I give it texture with the sand blower? I really enjoy your channel! Thanks again!
I have a Nike Slingshot video. You won't have to do any of these steps beside polish it. Check it out : czcams.com/video/6OeENu71SFk/video.html
Word. Just put masking tape on the plastic ferrule on the shaft so you don't mess with it and you should be ok. That's the only thing you could damage. Sand with paper, then buff it you have a buffer (or make one like my tutorial). That should get you started and comfortable.
Great video. How far will one mix go.? Like can you do several clubs in that one mix? How would you gauge when it's ready for replacement solution? Cheers!
It will last indefinitely of you keep it clean. You can add more distilled water to raise the level if it gets low. The inky thing you'll have to replace is the nickel anode because it gets eaten away as it sacrifices metal into the solution. I'll make a video about Tank Maintenance for you.
Homie I need this. I wanna roll up with my MP-37s looking like I just bought them last week.
Let's go! You can do this. This video was my first time trying anything like this. I'm a self-admitted moron, so if I can figure it out, you can do it with ease.
excellent video! If you repeat the process several times, can several layers of plating adhere? At how much voltage did you supply the plating tub? How did you remove the plate from the golf clubs? regards Thank you very much for the video greetings from Monterrey Mexico!!
Check out this link:
czcams.com/video/VRiefpq1iVs/video.html
This is how I removed the old finish. You can replate it again buy you'll have to reactivate the nickel using a nickel activation solution (also sold by those guys) for it to bond.
I forgot to answer the voltage question: I started with 4.5 volts and 1 amp, but lowered it to 3.5 volts and .5 amp on the second club but let it plate longer.
Exciting videos!
I have a set of old titleist tour model from 81, they are fully playable as they are… But it would be really cool to have them in a mint condition.
Chroming seems as a no go as a DIY process!
How does the Nickel plating hold up for wear & tear?
Other then that I guess it is just to follow your videos with the mizuno clubs?
Great videos!!
The nickel is quite durable. And, once you understand the process, you can re-do the plating as it wears.
@@BradMeehan Only if you electrostrip the first plating first.
So after you Nickel Plate them you can sandblast the face paint fill them and game them or do you have to put any kind of a coating afterwards
Absolutely. You could spray them with a bit of clear coat to extend the life, but it will scratch off eventually.
Can you describe your process before playing? Do you degrease then prep with a muriatic acid mix? And if I scuff the surface before with a scotch brite pad will this plating still give it a uniformly smooth look? Thanks for your content man!!
How far before plating? After it's been polished?
I use the acid for rust and some chrome removal before polishing.
Once it's polished, I use the electrocleaner to really get the piece clean from any oils from the polishing compound, I active any remaining nickel that may be on the club so it can accept new nickel, then into the tank for a few hours.
The club will take on the condition of the underlying metal, so if you see brush marks from the Scotch-Brite, you will see it in the plating. A heavy layer of copper first will help fill in the scuffs, but it's just easier to polish than go to that extra step. Polishing takes no effort. You're just standing there and letting the wheel do the work.
Keep the questions coming so I know you are successful at this.
Also, practice on a junk club.
Gonna start doing this! I constantly bring home various clubs from garage sales and thrift stores.
Me too. It's a problem.
I added an equipment list to the description
@@BradMeehan you da man!
@@BradMeehan I bet your wife or significant other loves it as much as mine…
@@Friedasboss2001 She does! I usually show her in person the progress I'm making but she still likes to watch the final video. She says they're really satisfying to watch - especially on the full restoration videos where i don't talk. Haha.
If you did multiple club heads in the nickel solution at one time do you have to leave them in longer or would it still be around same time as one clubhead
You would need larger anodes to accommodate the increased surface area of the clubs. For our little operation, it's best to do one at a time.
Man, these videos are the shit. Thanks bro! Fixing up some T-Zoids... have a bench grinder coming... next build is the plating station!
Nice, Angelo. Send me some pics!
@@BradMeehan Hey Brad, I will do! I have a question for you - The T-Zoids have a pretty degraded chrome plating. I'm thinking about sanding it off by hand, or using a hydrochloric acid to pull it off the nickel underneath... Would that be how you'd go about it? I thought about trying reverse plating to remove the chrome, but it seems like quite a toxic and dangerous process, as it is actual chromium not brightened nickel, so was keen to avoid it...
@@Angelokwells Acid is the fastest.
Legal disclaimer: I would research the safest method for your application. I'm just a dude in my basement shining old golf crap. I got C's in school.
Ah, I see you're using the chrome remover. Do you have a video that covers removing chrome? Would be hell keen to see how the wizard is doing it!
@@BradMeehan I feel like that legal disclaimer should apply to both you and I... Haha. Cheers Brad!
Do you take old chrome and nickel off first, if so how? How long do the annodes last? The green solution can be saved if you take out and do a copper bath correct? Amazing work Brad!
NO YOU CANNOT NICKEL PLATE OVER CHROME. Chrome has to be stripped OFF first.
Loving the videos...what guage wire do you use on the alligator clips? Thanks!!
Mine came with the power supply. It's 12 or bigger. I'll see if there is a marking on it when I get home.
@@BradMeehan thanks...but what i was refering to are the wires on the alligator clips connected to the nickel plates hanging in the plastic tub. I couldn't find any already made up so i have to make my own.
This is awesome! What do you use as your power supply?
I bought one from Amazon. There's a link in the description. I just chose an inexpensive one with good reviews.
if i were to plate a round piece of steel 1.25" diameter and 25" long will this work or do i need more voltage/amps, i want plating to be as thick as i can get it. thanks and very good presentation
Check out my Electroless Nickel video. That may be a better option for this use case. But yes, you'd have to do a bit of math. There's a calculator on the Caswell site to help with power requirements for your parts. It takes into consideration the entire surface area to be plated.
@@BradMeehan thank you much
Does the piece that's being plated show any blemishes at the points where it rests on the copper hook? Do you move it around periodically? Great video, thanks
It could. I've adapted my tank to be taller so I can hang it from the hosel now. I bought a plastic flour container and it's a good size. Check out some of the newer videos to see what it looks like. The rest is the same setup.
The contact point will have a thinner layer so move it around
Brad love the stuff man. I have a set of 32's I'm looking to fix up, but not strip and rechrome. What compounds on what wheels would you recommend? Should/could I deburr any larger gashes out? Anything you can do to the faces? Also, whats the lifespan look like on this nickel treatment...they look awesome
Thank you.
The chrome layer is so durable that you'll have a hard time getting anything larger than scuffs out with polishing. At best you'll have shiny bag chatter, if that makes sense. The deburring wheel will eventually make it's way through the chrome layer and into the nickel, so you'll have exposed nickel in spots and chrome in others. Knowing how Mizuno wear, you likely have exposed steel somewhere that would at least need a brushed layer of nickel to protect it from rust, or use a corrosion preventative spray on it regularly.
If you do want to shine them up as-is, I'd go with the stitched denim wheel and a yellow compound. It's very soft and won't cut through your chrome.
The jury is out on the longevity of just nickel plating the irons since I just figured it out and haven't finished the set. The good news is, if it wears I can just throw them in the tank again with a little prep first. The nickel solution continually replenishes itself so all you need to add over time is more Distilled water and maybe more brightener.
Keep me posted on your decision and let me know how they turn out.
@@BradMeehan Completely makes sense, luckily most of the set is in good shape so I think a solid polish will get them looking great for the season and maybe some re-polishing and reapplication of hoppes #9 lubricant will help them last longer. Anything after the denim/yellow to finish it off or you think just the denim/yellow is all it needs?
9 iron I have has a big gash on it (bought another to game incase I can't fix it) that I may try and deburr to see if it can get 'buffed' out. but I wasn't planning on getting that back to perfect anyways.
I don't think I'll nickel plate but what you just said has me curious now haha. So you can save the nickel solution and just add distilled water to use again? Theoretically meaning that you could just continually replate them? Also since you have me thinking now...what did the nickel plating do to the overall weight?
Thank you for taking the time to answer these questions! Unbelievably helpful
@@BradMeehan how is the longevity looking like with the nickel plating? any update?
Brad: I have 2 sets of Mizuno MP69 irons that I wish to refurbish as shown in this video. Can I assume that the process in this video on MP32 will apply? I am a club builder & teaching professional located in North Carolina who will be expanding into refinishing irons. Love your videos. Also the DC power supply you recommend is not showing on amazon any longer. Any spec recs on one?
Let me know if you have any questions along the way. Regarding the power supply, I can look for an equivalent but basically I just looked for an economical product with decent ratings. I try to do this on the cheap.
And yes, for any forged, chrome plated iron, the same steps apply. Just make sure there's no chrome left if you're going to replate the whole club. You can brush plate spots that are exposed if you don't do the whole iron but there are subtle color differences between chrome and the bright nickel.
So, I did my first wedge with steps youve put in video. Got all my stuff from caswell. It turned out great. I then prepped and did a 2nd wedge, and it came out with a black/chrome spiral finish...found out that my cable that connected the annodes dropped into the nickel solution during the plating process (im guessing some plastic got melted off). I tested with another club and got some "icky" results. I'm wondering if the solution got contaminated and if there is anything a guy can do to clean the nickel solution or do I need to start fresh with new crystals and nickel brightener?
thanks for any help!
Hi Ben. Contamination is a possibility if something falls into the solution because it will also release lositively charged metal looking for a negatively charged part. Some forums say you can filter it through a fish tank carbon filter.
Have you tried polishing the swirly one after? Does it shine?
Have you ever tried to plate anything thats subjected to heat? I'd like to know if it would hold up on something like a motorcycle part
This will work for motorcycle parts. All chrome parts have nickel underneath.
Great video, totally new so forgive me… but is there any fumes that come off of the solution? Just wondering about any precautions to take when setting up to plate a club. Thanks!
No fumes. No smell at all, really. But ventilation is recommended. Also, use rubber gloves.
@@BradMeehan Thank you! Speedy reply… much appreciated!
cool!!!
Where did you get the pump ? I can't find it
for a copper plating do you need a special solution also? or can you create one with vinegar and salt and the donor metal? thanks
Yessir! Check it out:
czcams.com/video/PS3yPdwVFds/video.htmlfeature=shared
hello! a consultation... the sandblasting is done before or after the electroplating processes
I now do it before to avoid damaging the plating.
Brad, as usual, id like to thank you for showing the rest of us how to do this.
The positively charged metal that you're using... What are they called so i can get them from Home Depot? Right now Ii don't know what they're called or what they are for that matter. I'm assuming that they're nickel plated metal in order to get the nickel to adhere to the negatively charged golf iron.
I live in Canada, so to be on the safe side as far as sourcing some of this stuff, what should i ask for or look for to get those metal plates? If you don't get them from Home Depot, let me know so hopefully we have the same chain of stores here in Canada as well. Thanks in advance for your help and guidance. You're such a great guy doung all these videos for us laymen!
I was wondering why you only do one at a time, but then I read a reply to one of my own comments and you explained why you only do one at a time. Once removed from the suspension, the metal starts to corrode quickly if left sitting for some time. That makes a lot of sense to do one at a time.
Thanks man, you're awesome!!
How's it hold up after playing?