For all those watching this video easier way to remove lower gear plate is to twist till the ears of plate are on the sides and get rubber mallet and hit upwards with little force! It will keep you from scraping metal and messing up the seal 👌👌
Just bought a prop for this randomly on Amazon for ~$5 for an unrelated project. Found this video to see how it’s attached. Nice project, thanks for posting!
For the cotter key, split the ends and bend them on at a time in opposite directions to ensure it does not come out. That revs pretty high, so you don't want that to easily to slide out like you have it there.
Thank you so much! My Hangkai came packed with gear oil already. It wasn't empty (purchased through Amazon). Your instructions were great. For some reason I had a much easier time with the cotter pin. Rotating the cap and using a light mallet tap got the housing open quickly as the last post hinted. Thank you for a very helpful video!
I found this because I was pretty sure when I took mine for its maiden voyage, the gears shouldn't have been literally screaming for oil 😅 great video thanks
I just got a free Hangkai 3.5 hp 2 stroke. I bought a spare prop for $14.. I got to get a pin, the little plastic cup that was in my old prop around the pin, and napa has an exact match stainless cotter pin. The face book hangkai group said use 30:1 for break in, then start using 50:1 after break in. The little 3.5 has a huge following. Not sure about the other Hangkai engines.
Thank you my friend! Thank you Thank you Thank you!!!!! You just saved my life. I just got one of these motors and had NO CLUE what to do! I found you on CZcams! You rock my friend! Thanks again & keep doing what you're doing. You're doing a GREAT job! 🇺🇸👊🇺🇸
Add to the confusion on the fuel mixture issue. The Hangkai website states using a 50:1 fuel mixture, which is what my weed whacker uses. I buy TruFuel premixed fuel, and never had a problem with the weed whacker. Not sure which way to go on this.
I wasn't sure if I should Grease that or not because I didn't want the gasket on the inside of the plate to have any play since that part doesn't move I think it will be ok .
Use marine grade grease to lubricate the prop shaft bushing. Also gear oil needs breathing room. It expands during use and heat production so totally full could be problematic. Break in time is ten hours at the recommended fuel/ oil mixture, then change the mixture to normal operating mix. Don’t rev the motor during break in, that’s where people run into problems. Break in at low speed, not idle. There is a clutch in the lower unit and it stops the impeller and prop from turning at idle. Max idle time is 5 minutes, after that bad things start to happen. Change you spark plug to Champion CJ8 or NGK equivalent. Stock plug is sub standard. Good luck.
Everywhere you buy the item it says in the product description to ignore the manual. Use 35:1. It must have been a typo, and they didn't want to reprint all those manuals.
I almost made the mistake of putting regular gear oil I used to drive a stick shift and that's the gear oil I almost put in there then I found out it was Marine gear oil and then I put grease around the outer edges of the engine also Marine Grease
That's perfect To know I should have probably mentioned that in the video I think for the break in period it's not too badd to use regular oil since you should change it right after the 10 hour break in What do you think?
@@FishingwithCristina I think I have seen that one too , I'm hoping that I can have enough information to help ppl who buy this engine all in one spot . I spent so much time looking for all the different videos and just being overwhelmed .
Hi thanks for extra instructions.. can you tell me can one but a new brass bushing and sheer pins . What parts can one get. Possibly need a new o ring seal as well.
I just got a 3.5 hp and am breaking it in, with running it in a trash can w/ water up the the right level. Mixed gas & oil as in your video. There's quite a bit of smoke or burned oil - is that a problem, and what can I do about it? The motor, water, and trash can aren't perfectly level and perpendicular - is that a problem?
Waaaayyyy too much gear oil if you see it leaking then you blew out the seal. You’re supposed to fill it right below that line because when liquid gets hot and expands.
In the U.S. it is usually called the ‘carburetor base gasket’. On some motorcycles it’s simply referred to as the ‘intake manifold’ if it is a plastic or rubber boot connecting the carburetor to the engine.
On the box it came in. Seriously. There’s a tag on the transom clamp but the No. is blank, the label on the box has all the info that would be on a normal Id tag, so I just cut the box and kept that part.
For all those watching this video easier way to remove lower gear plate is to twist till the ears of plate are on the sides and get rubber mallet and hit upwards with little force! It will keep you from scraping metal and messing up the seal 👌👌
I completely agree this would have been a easier method for sure
Thanks for making this video, pretty sure I wouldn't have realised it needed gear oil without your video!!
Just bought a prop for this randomly on Amazon for ~$5 for an unrelated project. Found this video to see how it’s attached. Nice project, thanks for posting!
For the cotter key, split the ends and bend them on at a time in opposite directions to ensure it does not come out. That revs pretty high, so you don't want that to easily to slide out like you have it there.
You have saved me world of grief - thank you :-)
This was a great video, thank you for sharing I have the same questions especially about the lack of putting gear oil in for these types of motors
Thank you so much! My Hangkai came packed with gear oil already. It wasn't empty (purchased through Amazon). Your instructions were great. For some reason I had a much easier time with the cotter pin. Rotating the cap and using a light mallet tap got the housing open quickly as the last post hinted. Thank you for a very helpful video!
I found this because I was pretty sure when I took mine for its maiden voyage, the gears shouldn't have been literally screaming for oil 😅 great video thanks
Brilliant Video- super intelligent approach and very helpful- thank you and happy boating!
I just got a free Hangkai 3.5 hp 2 stroke. I bought a spare prop for $14.. I got to get a pin, the little plastic cup that was in my old prop around the pin, and napa has an exact match stainless cotter pin.
The face book hangkai group said use 30:1 for break in, then start using 50:1 after break in.
The little 3.5 has a huge following. Not sure about the other Hangkai engines.
Thank you my friend!
Thank you Thank you Thank you!!!!!
You just saved my life.
I just got one of these motors and had NO CLUE what to do!
I found you on CZcams!
You rock my friend!
Thanks again & keep doing what you're doing. You're doing a GREAT job!
🇺🇸👊🇺🇸
You're welcome
Thanks a ton for these videos. They helped me tremendously!
Wow, this is a product of our company
Are youre products reliable in you're own opinion
Approximately, how much motor oil do put in??? The dip stick does not have a clear marker.
@@alwayslearningsomethingnew7115 are you crazy. It's a 2 stroke
@@alwayslearningsomethingnew7115 you mix oil into the gasoline
Sorry, I got the 4 stroke 4HP... my bad.
Add to the confusion on the fuel mixture issue. The Hangkai website states using a 50:1 fuel mixture, which is what my weed whacker uses. I buy TruFuel premixed fuel, and never had a problem with the weed whacker. Not sure which way to go on this.
True fuel will always work in this one your on the right track.
13:45 where you are rubbing your finger that's where I put the grease and also on the shaft
I wasn't sure if I should Grease that or not because I didn't want the gasket on the inside of the plate to have any play since that part doesn't move I think it will be ok .
Use marine grade grease to lubricate the prop shaft bushing. Also gear oil needs breathing room. It expands during use and heat production so totally full could be problematic. Break in time is ten hours at the recommended fuel/ oil mixture, then change the mixture to normal operating mix. Don’t rev the motor during break in, that’s where people run into problems. Break in at low speed, not idle. There is a clutch in the lower unit and it stops the impeller and prop from turning at idle. Max idle time is 5 minutes, after that bad things start to happen. Change you spark plug to Champion CJ8 or NGK equivalent. Stock plug is sub standard. Good luck.
we stand on the shoulders of giants
Thanks for the info on the gear oil fill , the cutter pin splits and then bent,and you are 100 on trying to understand their manual 😢😢
Everywhere you buy the item it says in the product description to ignore the manual. Use 35:1. It must have been a typo, and they didn't want to reprint all those manuals.
Friend just bought same engine and it says 50:1.
I think you should split the off the prop pin.
Not a gasket its an "O" ring.
I almost made the mistake of putting regular gear oil I used to drive a stick shift and that's the gear oil I almost put in there then I found out it was Marine gear oil and then I put grease around the outer edges of the engine also Marine Grease
That's perfect To know I should have probably mentioned that in the video I think for the break in period it's not too badd to use regular oil since you should change it right after the 10 hour break in What do you think?
@@SailingProjectOdyssey yes that's a great idea I saw a man on CZcams breaking it in for 10 hours and then changing the gear oil
@@FishingwithCristina I think I have seen that one too , I'm hoping that I can have enough information to help ppl who buy this engine all in one spot . I spent so much time looking for all the different videos and just being overwhelmed .
@@SailingProjectOdyssey I know there is not that much information on them unfortunately there's a few of us that are putting up videos
Question, is your propeller hard to turn by hand, or does it spin nice and freely?
Hi thanks for extra instructions.. can you tell me can one but a new brass bushing and sheer pins . What parts can one get. Possibly need a new o ring seal as well.
Thanks great video
Is it true that you have to break this motor in for ten hours? If so, cant you break it in on the lake?
Hi
Thanks for the video, it's very interesting !!!
Please can you confirm if I can use it in salt water i mean at sea ??
You can yes. Just run it thru fresh water after each use. Rusts easily. If you do, grease throttle cable.
Hello, I bought this motor and the propeller does not turn. I put oil and grease it but it still does not rotate. Any ideas?
Send it back
I just got a 3.5 hp and am breaking it in, with running it in a trash can w/ water up the the right level. Mixed gas & oil as in your video. There's quite a bit of smoke or burned oil - is that a problem, and what can I do about it? The motor, water, and trash can aren't perfectly level and perpendicular - is that a problem?
Hi Steve how’s the motor holding up?
Great will done m8 I shall get one for the red sea Yemen can you please let me know what sort and size spark plugs it takes and air filter thanks
Spark plug replacement number is champion cj-8 and it has no air filter it’s water cooled
Normally an outboard engine does not need an air filter unless the air surrounding you is laden with wind blown dust, dirt or sand
I have a 3.6 motor hangkai. In my book it says there is a carburetor oil feeder. Do you know what that is and what is it for
Nope your fine don't worry about that , if anything it's for an air filter
It's called a cotter pin. Widely available. You should have split the pin apart.
I'm looking at buying one of these used for $140 what's you opinion on me doing that and doing everything you say to do
I'd say go for it , they are not the most powerful motors but do work good enough for the size . Thank you for your question hope it works out for you
That's what I said THE F*** !!!!
Thanks
Why would you not straight the pin before you try to insert it 🤔
It was lmao but thanks for your advice
I couldn’t watch the butchering of the split pin. You had pliers, straighten it ffs. A small hammer would not have bent the pin.
Waaaayyyy too much gear oil if you see it leaking then you blew out the seal. You’re supposed to fill it right below that line because when liquid gets hot and expands.
Fill to 1/3 capacity. About 10 km down from line.
hi what is the part name between the carburetor and the engine its broken and i dont know from where i can find
I'd say its probably a spacer I'd have to look closer at my engine and try to figure it out. Sorry for the late reply and thanks for your comment
In the UK we call it a inlet gasket.
In the U.S. it is usually called the ‘carburetor base gasket’. On some motorcycles it’s simply referred to as the ‘intake manifold’ if it is a plastic or rubber boot connecting the carburetor to the engine.
I asked an expert he said just petrol because it's four stroke just fuel.
Yeah its very difficult for my engine which is the exact same but different name.
Hope your motor is doing everything you d like , good little engine . Thanks for your comment
@@SailingProjectOdyssey oh it glides through the water.
What fuel to use? Petrol?
You need to run marine gear oil
where is the serial # located
On the box it came in. Seriously. There’s a tag on the transom clamp but the No. is blank, the label on the box has all the info that would be on a normal Id tag, so I just cut the box and kept that part.
@@SpyFryTF2 Thank you for this info 🫡
can you please tell me, what diameter the proshaft has :)?
No sorry if i get a chance i will try and measure it for you.
Hmmm. Prop not spinning, sheer pin is in…
Mine came with oil in it.
The ones produced very recently have
Mine was a 4stroke 7hp hangkai and I just got it. Mine did NOT come with oil in it! It also wasn’t in the Chinese only instructions.
It's a dumb process. Why would they assemble something that has to be disassembled? Just send it already apart