I've been trying to do this on and off for months, on my side and rear doors. It's a cargo van, so no interior panels. Been crawling back and pulling the cables for over a year. This was probably one of the most helpful videos. I appreciate it. I did take the black panel/ license plate piece off, made it a lot easier. If anyone in the future sees this and needs help, this is the video to watch.
If you have to do this, do all four doors, 2 rear and 2 side at the same time. I didn’t and one would fail, fixit, then a month later another another fails , rinse repeat, rinse repeat. The door he does is the worst of the four. And I took the black panel on the inside below the speaker off and the outside black box comes out. So much more room to get in and out.
How odd to take everything off EXCEPT the ACCESS panel to get ACCESS. Also, do you realize you don't have to disconnect the cables from the door latch, you can just slide the cable ends over the cable? This video turns a fairly straightforward project into an hour long challenge.
This helped give an idea of the process of getting the door open before diving in. Had to get the door open on one set up for refrigeration and it is all fiber glassed inside with custom door skins and fiberglass insulation in the doors / foamed windows, a little tedious getting the skin off with the door shut, but got it off enough to reach in the speaker hole and fidget around until I got it to unlatch. I found that the outer handle in the license plate frame, had a rusty bolt on the return spring, so the handle was stuck, and the spring couldn't release it, not allowing either handle to open it. I cleaned it up, greased it, and works again.
Thanks for the detailed walk-through. I just completed this job on my 99 E-350 in less time than it took to watch the video. Two tips. Take the license plate assembly out early in the process. And no need to drill out the rivet. That piece can be pried out of its bracket and clipped back in without dismounting the bracket. Also I didn’t try to crimp the new cable ends and it works great. I appreciate you te eking time to share your experience!
I'm still working on a door on my 2007 E-350 (for me the forward part of the side doors which seems close enough to compare to the door in the video). I don't have tool to make new rivet so confirmation that I could just pry out that part was very helpful.
An update, just fixed this, you don’t have to drill the rivet, the “Actuator” is clipped into that “C” channel. Use flat head screw driver to peel out C channel to release pins in “Actuator “ from C channel. Then the whole assembly comes out.
I don't know where your from, but you sound like part of my family with your accent and phrasing. God bless ya for this great video as I had the same problem with my 2002 E150. You stepped me through like a champ. Thank ya bunches. This Ole western kentucky/southern Illinois girl.
Next time just remove the license plate holder withe the for bolts on the inside you will gain way more room. They are the 4 on the black panel on the inside of the door. But all in all great to know about those doorman retainers.. good video. Thank you!
This guy made it hard and confusing. The correct way to do it is remove the plastic recessed box where the license plate is. This allows easy access. Remove Torx bolts holding the latch, the actuator is held in place by a U bracket, carefully pry one side away and the actuator will come loose, allowing the latch mechanism to drop down , to easily replace the cables. He drilled out the rivet on the door edge below the latch. This is not necessary and makes for extra work reattaching U bracket.
It seems like the hardest part was getting to the cable ends in the actuator . Isn’t it the ends going to the latches where they usually break? Could you just get by doing the long ends?
Don't have to drill the piece out... Should have taken the cover off on the bottom part tag cover.. Should have taken 1 hr at the most... Wow, you made this so much more difficult than need be!!!
12:10 - Don't knock out the rivet holding the actuator, It's actually a clip. Take a screwdriver or small pry bar to the inside left or right. Pry out and then slip the actuator out of the clip. It's a pretty heavy clip on my 2004 E350 but you can pop the actuator out.
The door lock actuator can be removed after removing the license plate housing by using a flat screw driver to ply the actuator on both sides from the bracket. No drilling is necessary.
I noticed for several minutes around the 18 min mark or so of that large black plate to the left of the hole this guy is working with his screwdriver. I notice the bolts. Why not remove that panel?
Depending on how old your van is - and whether it’s yours, here’s a way to get inside the rear doors: czcams.com/video/Lrm0OuwDLYU/video.html They cut a hand hole through the panel behind the license plate.
wouldve been less of a hassle if you removed that big metal panel. and then put the screws back on without the metal panel. will hold it all in place without the metal panel being there and you wouldve had a lot of room.
Its a pain in the ass fixing them back doors yes either have to replace plastic ends or cables its a good video but i think he could of made it ezier if he would of talken the licenscen plate off 😮
I've been trying to do this on and off for months, on my side and rear doors. It's a cargo van, so no interior panels. Been crawling back and pulling the cables for over a year. This was probably one of the most helpful videos. I appreciate it.
I did take the black panel/ license plate piece off, made it a lot easier.
If anyone in the future sees this and needs help, this is the video to watch.
Thank you
why didnt you just take off the licence plate holder?
@@rayssongs I said right there in my comment, “I did take the black panel/ license plate piece off, made it a lot easier.”
yes
If you have to do this, do all four doors, 2 rear and 2 side at the same time. I didn’t and one would fail, fixit, then a month later another another fails , rinse repeat, rinse repeat. The door he does is the worst of the four. And I took the black panel on the inside below the speaker off and the outside black box comes out. So much more room to get in and out.
How odd to take everything off EXCEPT the ACCESS panel to get ACCESS. Also, do you realize you don't have to disconnect the cables from the door latch, you can just slide the cable ends over the cable? This video turns a fairly straightforward project into an hour long challenge.
This helped give an idea of the process of getting the door open before diving in. Had to get the door open on one set up for refrigeration and it is all fiber glassed inside with custom door skins and fiberglass insulation in the doors / foamed windows, a little tedious getting the skin off with the door shut, but got it off enough to reach in the speaker hole and fidget around until I got it to unlatch. I found that the outer handle in the license plate frame, had a rusty bolt on the return spring, so the handle was stuck, and the spring couldn't release it, not allowing either handle to open it. I cleaned it up, greased it, and works again.
Thanks for the detailed walk-through. I just completed this job on my 99 E-350 in less time than it took to watch the video. Two tips. Take the license plate assembly out early in the process. And no need to drill out the rivet. That piece can be pried out of its bracket and clipped back in without dismounting the bracket. Also I didn’t try to crimp the new cable ends and it works great. I appreciate you te eking time to share your experience!
I'm still working on a door on my 2007 E-350 (for me the forward part of the side doors which seems close enough to compare to the door in the video). I don't have tool to make new rivet so confirmation that I could just pry out that part was very helpful.
thanks very much for info.
Thank you ! I did not realize the cables were infact broken. I took off my license plate holder and it made everything smoother.
Thank you Sir for making this video. I completed the job and absolutely couldn’t not have done it without your help. Thanks so much!
I just bought a 2000 ford f150 with the 2 half doors that will not open. I guess this is what the issue with them is....good job bro. Shalom
An update, just fixed this, you don’t have to drill the rivet, the “Actuator” is clipped into that “C” channel. Use flat head screw driver to peel out C channel to release pins in “Actuator “ from C channel. Then the whole assembly comes out.
Can you do this from inside the door or from the outside?
I don't know where your from, but you sound like part of my family with your accent and phrasing.
God bless ya for this great video as I had the same problem with my 2002 E150. You stepped me through like a champ.
Thank ya bunches.
This Ole western kentucky/southern Illinois girl.
Thank you , Sikeston mo.
THANK YOU!!! I needed to figure out how to open the door so THANKS!!
Next time just remove the license plate holder withe the for bolts on the inside you will gain way more room. They are the 4 on the black panel on the inside of the door. But all in all great to know about those doorman retainers.. good video. Thank you!
HUGE HELP!! Thank you
This guy made it hard and confusing. The correct way to do it is remove the plastic recessed box where the license plate is. This allows easy access. Remove Torx bolts holding the latch, the actuator is held in place by a U bracket, carefully pry one side away and the actuator will come loose, allowing the latch mechanism to drop down , to easily replace the cables. He drilled out the rivet on the door edge below the latch. This is not necessary and makes for extra work reattaching U bracket.
Thank you happy to have subscribed
Thank you
speaker I should have known... thanks for the video
If Ford had just made those ferrules out of aluminum in the first place…..SMH.
It seems like the hardest part was getting to the cable ends in the actuator .
Isn’t it the ends going to the latches where they usually break?
Could you just get by doing the long ends?
To remove the old rubber ends on my cables I used a pair of heavy pliers and just "squished" the rubber until it flaked and fell off.
Don't have to drill the piece out... Should have taken the cover off on the bottom part tag cover.. Should have taken 1 hr at the most... Wow, you made this so much more difficult than need be!!!
12:10 - Don't knock out the rivet holding the actuator, It's actually a clip. Take a screwdriver or small pry bar to the inside left or right. Pry out and then slip the actuator out of the clip. It's a pretty heavy clip on my 2004 E350 but you can pop the actuator out.
Mine keep falling into the locked position due to gravity. So pulling the cables does not work anymore 😢 any suggestions
The door lock actuator can be removed after removing the license plate housing by using a flat screw driver to ply the actuator on both sides from the bracket. No drilling is necessary.
Thank you!!!
Thanks for the great info
So much easier to take off that big black plate. gives you way more room to work when that comes off along with the license plate trim
I noticed for several minutes around the 18 min mark or so of that large black plate to the left of the hole this guy is working with his screwdriver. I notice the bolts. Why not remove that panel?
yeah buddy
His mistake. What gets me it's so hard 2 get behind all that metal, they don't want u 2 remove , 4 a much easier job.
At first, I thought it said "The Alcoholics of Oran" at @2:15 but rewound to @0:21 and saw "Apostolics". :)
The door looks just like my ‘94 E250. Way easier to access the latch assembly by taking off license plate panel.
My arms would be torn to ribbons. LOL
Lol , A few cuts & scratches .
what about the left side door
I was wondering for 45 minutes when you were gonna have to remove that cover!
Good info... but I threw up from sea sickness at the 9 minute mark.
hahaha i just passed out
Depending on how old your van is - and whether it’s yours, here’s a way to get inside the rear doors:
czcams.com/video/Lrm0OuwDLYU/video.html
They cut a hand hole through the panel behind the license plate.
I pull down on cable And door doesn't open, what 2 do? And u buy parts from nappa?
You may have to remove the big black panel and follow cable up to the latch and pull on release , also make sure door is unlocked
Send out some instruction 4 a price!!!???
wouldve been less of a hassle if you removed that big metal panel. and then put the screws back on without the metal panel. will hold it all in place without the metal panel being there and you wouldve had a lot of room.
What if you pull the cable and nothing happens
Can't answer?
finally takes off access panel, lol
All you had to do was take off the panel that holds the license plate holder both cables right there.
Its a pain in the ass fixing them back doors yes either have to replace plastic ends or cables its a good video but i think he could of made it ezier if he would of talken the licenscen plate off 😮
Hey Guys, Don't you think FORD MOTOR COMPANY
could have used metal in the first place??? Lousey plastic.
Thanks good, i am in alanta can someone help with all my doors are not functional? i will pay 250
So painful to watch... not removing the access panel, and some of the bench seats come out with two levers also. Work harder, not smarter epitomized
Why not just take the 3 seats out first???
More time and work to put them back in
Looks awkward, not an easy job, ha ha.
Just another day at the office , LOL .
take off the panel!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
This guy knows what he’s doing but it’s a horrible video.
😂😂😂 funny how the clown covered license plates